Replacing original bolts on the Arches Slab routes

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Roger Brown

climber
Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 8, 2007 - 12:18am PT
Plan to work this area this summer. Want to help? I will provide the rack, ropes and a belay slave. I will haul everything to the base. You lead the pitches, I will belay,jug the fixed rope, and drag up more ropes to fix. Bring your partner, bring your friends. What the hell, lets make it a happening. I need to get to the top of "The Rambler" and to the top of "Greasey But Groovy" Fixed ropes to the top of these routes will provide access to a bunch of stuff that is in need of replacement. I am sponsored by the ASCA. I will leave here this Saturday and plan to be in "The Valley" on the 19th. Got to have a week in the Saline Valley before I start this project :-)
Roger Brown
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Jun 9, 2007 - 04:54pm PT
I plan on personally rebolting Reefer Madness and Greasy But Groovy in the near future so please direct your rebolting efforts, if you can, to the many other needy routes. I lead GBG to the top of pitch three long ago and would like to finish that classic line and restore it. No telling how many bolts are missing and may have to be replaced on stance. This project has already seen some discussion on the ST not long ago. Any concerns or comments?
Tom

Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
Jun 10, 2007 - 12:55am PT
Are you doing this with Greg Barnes and ASCA?

I was supposed to ship him a rather good (bit heavy) T-prybar that I modified for driving under hangers and pulling out old 1/4" bolts. I used it on Cosmos, and it worked better than a tuning fork. After driving the spade under the hanger, the long lever arm made short work of taking corroded split-shaft rawls out of the hole.

I also have a bunch of SS hangers and 3/8"x2.25" SS 5-piece bolts I was supposed to ship back to him.

I can deliver this hardware to you, C/O the Ahwannee, if Greg gives his blessing.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Jun 10, 2007 - 01:59am PT
At this point the only other interested party is Clint Cummins who has done Reefer Madness previously. I have no direct affiliation with the ASCA but support their work. The anchors that I intend to install should be a model for all stainless steel, long working life restoration. High use anchors like the Space Station.

And solid shaft stainless steel 3/8" type 304 bolts (or larger) and period SMC stainless steel hangers. Restoration over retrofit.
Greg Barnes

climber
Jun 10, 2007 - 02:39am PT
Roger is supported by the ASCA, I just sent him another big pile of bolts, and he's done tons of replacement in Tuolumne and a fair bit in the Valley (like his epic replacement work on S Face of Half Dome).

Hey Tom, I have no probs removing 1/4" bolts with a couple light pins & tuning forks (unless they are Greg Vernon 1/4" buttonheads that are 2 1/2" long...then I need 4 tuning forks), so if Roger is interested that's great. He can use the bolts or get them to me later in the summer in Tuolumne.

Steve, if you're really pysched on SMC hangers, I'm pretty sure I have at least a few stainless SMC hangers with 3/8" holes in perfect condition (most I recover are a bit beat up, but I think I have a number of excellent quality hangers). If you're interested, email me your shipping address at greg@safeclimbing.org (it may take a bit for me to get back to Bishop and find them and send them your way), or I can get them to Clint.
Tom

Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
Jun 10, 2007 - 09:05am PT
Steve: what is welded between the links, where the two chains meet?

I'd say something about the quality of those welds, but I know how a MIG machine is not nearly as controllable as a TIG 8-)
slobmonster

Trad climber
berkeley, ca
Jun 10, 2007 - 11:17am PT
I also might be able to dredge up some stainless SMC hangers, if I find my way back to the ole' storage unit.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Jun 10, 2007 - 11:37am PT
I would appreciate any SMC 3/8" Stainless hangers that you folks could spare and would be willing to swap you for Petzl hangers and cover the postage. I haven't put out a call for SMC hangers yet but you start counting bolts for GBG/RM and it cleans me out.
Tom- The wearing assembly has a half link added in to yield a wear section of 3/4"! All of the welds are done professionally with a TIG. Eventually, I will fork over the 2K and buy one but for now I bite the bullet and hand them over. My welder does excellent work, little grinding. The chain sections are ground open to receive the three hole hanger and then welded shut. For a high use, remote belay/rappel station with a 100+ year last, this seems like the ticket.
nick d

Trad climber
nm
Jun 10, 2007 - 12:32pm PT
Steve, I just dug through my emergency bolt kit and I have exactly one. Don't know if they would pass muster but I also have five metolius hangers that look similar but a little more beefy. At any rate, let me know where you would like it (them) sent. I always appreciate very much the work done by those who came before me when I clip into a nice solid anchor.

Michael Smith
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Jun 11, 2007 - 10:23pm PT
Thanks for the offer MS but the postage is a little impractical for much less than about twenty hangers or so. I am happy that using SMC hangers in the restoration for protection points hasn't started some silly controversy. There has never been a failure according to SMC of their stainless bolt hangers.
MikeL

climber
Jun 11, 2007 - 10:46pm PT
Please post when the rebolting has been completed, whoever does it. We did the first two pitches of GBG a few years ago. It would be great to complete it when you're done.

What about Surf Nazi right next to it? Is that also on the list?

MikeL
Largo

Sport climber
Venice, Ca
Jun 12, 2007 - 12:25am PT
Best of luck in rebolting all of those routes. The bolts on Greasy but Groovy will likely come out by hand. Replacing those old coffin nails with bomber new sport bolts will be a lot of work (hand drilling) but the route will be much safer, same for Refer Madness.

JL
Larry

Trad climber
Bisbee
Jun 12, 2007 - 12:35am PT
Isn't there still a bolt missing from Shakey Flakes from some guy who pulled it in a fall?
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Jun 12, 2007 - 01:01am PT
Wasn't Shakey Flakes refitted with new stainless recently? That new stuff shouldn't be failing.
Larry

Trad climber
Bisbee
Jun 12, 2007 - 10:01am PT
Apparently Shaky Flakes still needs some work.

"Replaced 30 bolts. All belay bolts are 3/8". Almost all lead bolts are 3/8".
THERE ARE BOLTS MISSING ON PITCHES 4-6!! 12/97"

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