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scooter
climber
fist clamp
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Bob-
You are right Out of Gas is really nice, Tiggles and I had a fun time on it. You and I scampered Ursula, right? As far as NAtural weaknesses on Medlicot go. THe Yawn is hard to beat.
Would love to see you sometime Bobzy.
Pat
""
last pitch of the Yawn.
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Jay Wood
Trad climber
Fairfax, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 5, 2009 - 10:21pm PT
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Good stuff.
The Yawn- also on the list.
I've done Hoodwink- memorable.
What IS the .10c crux of Ursula?
In the process with Ciebola- done the first pitch, but opted to come back to the top pitch when the rock is cooler. My experience of Sweet Jesus was so different- 1st pitch on a hot afternoon, greasy and insecure; and the whole route in the morning- solid, pleasant.
Hyperspace looks cool, if one could do the .10d crux...
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bob
climber
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Pat, you may see me sooner than you think. Sean and I have unfinished business. Oh so close. I'll contact you when I know exact. Meadows the whole way.
Jay, Shambles is an excellent line on Medlicott that has one of the best crack pitches in the Meadows that I've done. Sick. I re-bolted the route up until the end of the roof pitch. The roof bolts are positioned whack a bit just because they were initially placed on aid.......I'm pretty sure. You can rap I from under the roof with two I believe?
Another great trad route is Sandbag on Lembert. Its rated 10b+. Details at Falk's site. www.tuolumnemeadows.org Steep mantle crux with surprisingly steep flakes to take you to the top. One bolt, one pin all rest gear. 220 foot pitch after doing the first pitch of the Northwest Buttress. Scooter (pat) has done that one. He will vouch for it if he reads this.
Oh the Meadows.
Bob J.
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kev
climber
CA
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bump
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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The .10c on Ursula is a well protected move over an arch on (memory fading) the first or second pitch. Kind of low angled up to that point but it steepens going over that overlap. Clip a bolt, grab and thin, hard to see edge and step way out left and reach up and find something to crank on.
Though that's the technical crux, the money pitch is the one after--sustained .10a/b climbing for a whole pitch.
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Jay Wood
Trad climber
Fairfax, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 6, 2009 - 09:43pm PT
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I think you can't clip a bolt until after that move- risking a funky fall onto the slab below.....
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John Vawter
Social climber
San Diego
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Jay, I recall feeling quite snug and secure at the .10c move, which I marked as just above the third bolt on pitch 1. I also recall just a little rocking action up and onto the high, funky left foot smear and it's over. My notes show two fixed pins (YMMV) below the roof, and I marked the roof 5.9+. (!)
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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I might be passing thru the Meadows for a few days late next week. Right now I'm at 34,000 feet.
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Fuzzywuzzy
climber
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Chartres is a classic. If you have the chance- do it!!
Quite a passage through that section of stone.
It requires some comfort on vintage TM routes.
Ok climbing and gear, good location and no crowds.
TC
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Jay Wood
Trad climber
Fairfax, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 7, 2009 - 03:12am PT
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It's the transition from the apron onto the main wall that I thought was tricky. Before the first bolt. Rock on to a rounded slope WAY to the left.
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scooter
climber
fist clamp
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Ahh yes Bobzy, Sandbag .10b+. I like how the route dosen't really have a rating but there is a rating in the name. That is a very good pitch. Though I do remember we started to the right of the NW Corner but still ended up atop the little buttress right before the mega pitch. A pitch put up in true Tuolumne style. Bolted on lead with a hand drill from the available stances. Very respectable and very hard. Have you heard of a second ascent? I would like to go back there now that I am back to full strength.
PAt
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bob
climber
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Pat, Tiggles sent it no probs. its a boulder problem. We never ended up on top of the buttress though. We stayed in the rightmost corner that starts that route, but you veer left which we did not do. I got to the top of the corner to where it arches right to shizz and put the bolt in and headed up through all those flakes, pulling out left onto the arete on cauliflower heads to finish up as the last flake arches right. That was the end.
Sean did the mantle and reversed it then did it again cuz he fugged up his body position the first time. It was hilarious. Maw paw.
Maybe we can do Chartres while I'm up. Still don't know dates.
It is FUN FUN!
Bob
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