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Jay Wood
Trad climber
Fairfax, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 7, 2007 - 02:05pm PT
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Looks like a nice natural line. Not much info in the Reid guide.
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John Vawter
Social climber
San Diego
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I remember it fondly. My first climbing trip to Tuolumne was in 1974 and we did three routes on Medlicott, The Coming, Sweet Jesus, and Chartres. I don't think we saw another party while we were up there. For The Coming and Chartres we used Roper's narrative description from the Eleven Domes article in the 1969 Ascent. We asked around and could find no one who had done it.
The first pitch or two is a bit circuitous, approaching the dihedrals from the right. The first arch was oozing a bit and my partner had to face climb out to the left. He ended up face climbing most of the upper half of the pitch looking at a long fall back into the dihedral, a really hairy lead. There is a pitch in the middle to connect with the upper arch. The upper arch faces the other way and is pretty continuous .7/.8 with good pro. Then the usual runout on a sea of knobs to the top.
I doubt if it has seen more than half a dozen ascents in the last 20 years. Most people I talk to have never heard of it. Bob Harrington did it, and if I recall correctly, probably wouldn't give it more than one star. But I thought it was a great adventure.
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bobh
climber
Bishop, California
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Yeah, I guess it would be an OK adventure. It's not a bad route, but there's just so many much better routes nearby. It's not got the quality (or crowds) of Lucky Streaks, Crescent Arch, Third Pillar, etc... One star.
I did it the same year as John, and that arch was wet, and I tried to lieback it and took a fall, then went out on the face. That was a great summer in Tuolumne.
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can't say
Social climber
Pasadena CA
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I did it back in 77' with Fred Zeal and remember it pretty much like John described it. Turning the roof on the left was the way we went also.
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John Vawter
Social climber
San Diego
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On Medlicott in the .9/.10a range The Coming is worth doing too, but it's over quick. Sweet Jesus just got high praise in its own thread. I think Higgins or Kamps, or both, put up all of those. None are on the "A" List, so you're more likely to find them vacant.
So Jay, what else are you looking at?
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Jay Wood
Trad climber
Fairfax, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 7, 2007 - 10:16pm PT
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I don't see any bolts on the topo, so I guess it's not an issue whether their old.
Thanks for the info.
Other things on the list-
Ciebola
yeah, the Coming
Breathing Hard done that one?
Streamline
Unh-Huh, on Fairview
Roseanne- got rained of that last fall
Inverted Staircase
Big Boys Don't Cry Lembert
Fool's Gold DAFF
Crescent Arch- repeat
stuff like that
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Jay wrote: Roseanne- got rained of that last fall
If you look closely, you can see one of that party on Roseanne in this picture... what you can't see is that it was raining/sleeting/hailing like crazy... I happened to be on a near by route. Since I love this alpine crap I was yelling at the top of my lungs: "God I love this place!"
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Jay Wood
Trad climber
Fairfax, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 8, 2007 - 02:37am PT
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Ed,
That was us. Pretty dynamic weather that day. I got to practice my micro-knob- climbing-with-numb-fingers technique.
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bob
climber
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Chartres is a really fun climb. We did the easy corner from the ledge over to it. A little traverse left to a belay brought us to the first pitch. Some friends did the 1st pitch of Priaprism to get there as well. Good pitch for sure from what I remember. I recall being a bit intimidated by the lack of crack or bolt(s) on the third pitch, at least from the topo in the guide. Its actually a crack the whole way and a good pitch at that. The second pitch was a bit wet for us as well, but we were able to climb right through it. So, on a wet year, I'd wait until late season, like we did, or go earlier in a dry season.(this winter qualifies in the Sierras!!!!!!)
Thumbs up in my opinion.
Bob J.
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John Vawter
Social climber
San Diego
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Ciebola is on the A List, and sometimes draws a crowd. Just a little harder but usually vacant is Ursula on Dozier Dome. Three quality pitches. Haven't done Breathing Hard or Streamline.
Tried Rosanne a couple years ago, and traversed onto Great Pumpkin to finish. Have to go back to that. I liked Inverted Staircase a lot, and it gets more traffic with the hardware replaced so there's less lichen on the first four pitches. Fairest of All is worth doing too, about as hard but longer.
Big Boys, the runout version of Cryin' Time. Fool's Gold has a gratuitous runout above the big patch of polish, but is a very cool pitch. Take some gear for the belays. If Crescent Arch is occupied, go around the corner and do Cooke Book.
American Wet Dream is worth doing too, and in that low .10 category.
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
Knob Central
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Be careful on Ursula though, it is a lot more serious route than Ciebola.
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Jay Wood
Trad climber
Fairfax, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 8, 2007 - 02:31pm PT
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Thanks for the input. We'll try and knock something off next weekend.
I hardly ever see anyone on Crescent Arch- why is that? It's one of the best routes I've done up there. Kind of a big brother to Comittment.
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John Vawter
Social climber
San Diego
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Someone I know hates it because it's "blue collar" climbing. The chimney is a grunt, but I like it anyway.
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Wild Bill
climber
Ca
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Haha, blue collar climbing? Is that where you have to use BOTH hands and BOTH feet at the same time? As opposed to sport climbing?:
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bobh
climber
Bishop, California
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Got to do The Yawn (burly) and Sweet Jesus (heady) if you haven't already. Coming and Breathing hard are worthwhile. Is that other bob Bob Jones?
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lucho
Gym climber
San Franpsycho
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Bob J. when are you comin back to Cali? Tuolumne season is in full swing, I had to work this week in SF but hope to see you in the meadows when I return.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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I've always wanted to do Chartres, maybe get around to it one of these years. Hiked up there once for it but my partner changed his mind (yeah, it's his fault!) so we did Shagadelic just to salvage the day.
Climbed The Coming years ago and thought that was a good adventure. The 10a first pitch was way easier to lead than the 5.6 face higher up, where I somehow got off route and ran out for miles.
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bob
climber
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Lucho, I'm headed out the last week of June for a month or so before I have to come back to CO to tile for another month. Errrr.
Chiloe, don't ya have to run it for miles on that last pitch of the Coming no matter what?
Bob J.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Did The Coming & Breathing Hard some 20 years back; good not great, but worthwhile adventures. Brossman said I did them in the wrong order.
Bob Jones, 40+ long gray hair from Santa Cruz arena?
Jonesy?
-Roy
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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bob:
Chiloe, don't ya have to run it for miles on that last pitch of the Coming no matter what?
Bob J.
Probably so, I recall a long pitch with just the one bolt.
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bob
climber
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Tarbuster: No Jones 40+, sorry. I'm Jensen from all over the Western arena at 30+ and going strong.
Lucho? Donde??
Bob J.
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Jerry Dodrill
climber
Bodega, CA
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Jay Wood said: "I hardly ever see anyone on Crescent Arch- why is that? It's one of the best routes I've done up there. Kind of a big brother to Comittment."
Well, this is a tad off topic, but I don't know where else to say it. so...
Two years ago I did what I believe was a FA up in the right side of Murphy Creek drainage on a small white outcrop, probably just less than half way to the topo'd Murphy Creek crag. It's a one pitch line that is kind of like Cresent Arch's little brother and very fun! Starts liebacking a beautiful gold water polished corner (5.7), then tips underclings out right till it pinches off, then .9+/.10a face climbing on tiny friction edges till the flared fingers underclinging starts. Finishes on a shelf with a horn you can rap from, or continue up to a tree and walk off. Called it "Lunula."I was working a fun direct but short second pitch finish up steep cracks but didn't redpoint it.
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Greg Barnes
climber
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The bolt on the face pitch of The Coming is way up there, I put it at a 70' runout in the ST, but did it again last year with a mid-marked rope and it's more like 85-90'.
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John Vawter
Social climber
San Diego
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Jun 20, 2007 - 02:28pm PT
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G_Gnome, when you said Ursula was more serious than Ciebola, did you mean Tune Up? I don't remember anything especially runout on Ursula. Ciebola's first pitch is pretty stiff for .10a, and requires gear.
But, it's been a while.
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
Knob Central
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Jun 20, 2007 - 02:57pm PT
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John, the slab approach pitch for Ursula is scary enough. I don't think it is possible to take anything longer than about a 30 footer on Ciebola, I am not sure you could say the same about Ursula. As for Tune Up, I have done it and the 2nd pitch requires 3 runouts in a row of 40'. The climbing is some of the best I have ever done and the rock is spectacular. But the climbing is on quartz crystalline structure and is all slightly down-pointing and slippery. At no point do you grab a hold and say to yourself 'ok, I can't fall off here'. I will never lead Tune Up again! I think I would rather do the B-Y.
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Bart Fay
Social climber
Redlands, CA
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Jun 20, 2007 - 03:37pm PT
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I never found the bolt up on the slab of The Coming. IIRC, I ran a full rope length
and never found a bolt or sufficient placements. Ended up downclimbing the entire pitch.
My partners seemed more gripped than me. I really wanted to see The Lake of The Domes.
"I would like to have seen Montana" Capt. Vasili Borodin
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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So, has this been a wet summer or a dry one in the Meadows? Anyone been close enough to check
out that frequently-wet arch on Chartres?
Just wondering.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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This thread needs more pictures.
just sayin'....
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Here ya go, Bluey, Lament on The Lamb back in EB days. No pro to mess up your concentration.
But in 2009, has it been wet or dry?
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east side underground
Trad climber
Hilton crk,ca
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Been a wet spring /summer, was up on medlicott yesterday did some really fun sport routes to the right of slipstream and left of west face route. We also climbed the west face, a bit wet at the bottom but no problem. To who ever replaced the bolts on omega race, slipstream ,scorpion ( probably the one responsible for the sport routes?) COOL!!! THANKS!!
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Jay Wood
Trad climber
Fairfax, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 5, 2009 - 01:31pm PT
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I looked at Chartres again this weekend. It looked a bit wet, but not too bad. Good to reread the posts of some who have done it, as I mainly remember Baba's description as 'serious'.
It's still on the list, but have ticked off some others.
The last few days-
"Uh Huh'- could use a couple of new bolts. does this ever get climbed?
'Middle Earth' - intricate route finding. sustained. not a date climb.
'Big Boys Don't Cry'- after 1 foot- jarring fall on the top out crux, I went around.
Also recent-
'Sweet Jesus'- much better in the morning on cool rock.
'Ursula'- runout, and 1 hard move down low with bad fall potential
'Breathing Hard'- runout, didn't find bolt on upper knob sea.
'The Coming'- good route, a bit of everything
'Roseanne' - better without the hail
'Inverted Staircase'- heinous rope drag after the staircase. very cool.
Current list:
American Wet Dream- I got a bit scared from the ST route description. How is it?
Fairest of All
Oz
Streamline
Harlot
The Sting
Tune up (Dozier)
Any beta?
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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There's a bolt on the Coming? Woops.
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Jay,
Keith Royster and I did an early ascent of Chartes in 78-79 I think?
I was completely blown away and in love with it. There WAS water under the arch, but I managed to get through it without falling.
I had NEVER seen a route of that size and magnitude without a SINGLE piece of fixed gear in. At least at that time there wasn't one fixed piece. It was one of the most beautiful aesthetic things I had ever seen.
PLEASE go do it and take a ton of pics. Take me back up there!!
If you don't get to it before then, you can drag me up it next year!!!!
That's a pretty glowing endorsement, I've been around.....
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dee ee
Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
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I climbed Chartres 25-30 years ago and don't remember a thing about it. Never did a bad route in Tuolumne though!
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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To chime in on Ursula, I did that only about 5 yrs. ago and didn't find it too bad, which is saying something because it was pretty much off the couch. Some runouts on that upper bolted pitch, but if you were able to dispatch that lower .10c pitch, that shouldn't be too much of a problem.
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bob
climber
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I've done the route twice now and I will go back again. I love that its a pure weakness. Even the friggen pitch that says there is no crack. THEY LIE! I mean look at those huge crazy ass corners. How are we going to link that at 5.9? What an adventure for a first ascent. Amazing that it is what it is.
Haven't done it this year. Stuck in AZ.
Jay Wood, all of those routes you list are great fun. I've done Uh Huh. Kinda hard through that arch as I recall. The sting is a funny route with some really good climbing on it. I think you're lookin at all new bolts now. Fairest of All is super fun. Sheez......they're all so fun. FUG!
Have fun folks.
EDIT: Fat, did you ever do Out of Gas? I believe left of Ursula
Bob J.
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DanaB
climber
Philadelphia
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I did Uh Huh about 20-25 years ago. I recall long runouts and less than inspiring bolts.
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John Vawter
Social climber
San Diego
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I've done American Wet Dream a couple of times and thought it was a pretty good route. The ledge interruptions bugged me a little. It's no Lucky Streaks, but some of the climbing is pretty good. Steep, lieback crux on one of the upper pitches.
Fairest of All is kinda nebulous and run out at first, but has some burly crack pitches in the dihedral that arches over to the right. The crux is some steep, pure face climbing near the end and bolt protected. I've always wanted to do it again.
Oz. The face is the crux and is well protected. Incredible dihedral with a hard bulge near the end. I thought the last pitch was really fun too, the icing on the cake.
I haven't done or talked to anyone about Streamline or Harlot. But Ciebola should be on your list.
The Sting was not very memorable. I recall a long horizontal undercling, and heat. Never wanted to do it again. I think Hoodwink is the route to do over there.
Tune up (Dozier). Earlier on this thread, I think it was G_Gnome
who said he'd rather lead Bachar-Yerian. It looks terrifying. I never tried it, and probably won't unless following. If you can get past the scary little overhang on the first pitch (G_Gnome--I remember it now), Ursula is the route to do on Dozier. The .10c move is well protected.
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okie
Trad climber
San Leandro, Ca
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Did The Coming last weekend. My partner started on the 10a variation, then got greedy and linked the next 5.9 corner all the way to the ledge (70 meter rope). He did a fun move when he turned the corner at the top of the second pitch to the left, instead of stepping out right and going over the roof as in the topo. This involved stemming out onto the vertical corner on the one small foothold chip/knob and reaching for a horizontal crack, then footswitch and turning the arete onto the slab. Really cool move. Not sure this is the route but it should be.
I don't know about the bolt up there, are they talking about the 5.6 way? Go straight up the fun 5.7/.8 knobs. After about 50ft or a little less cracks start to appear and then it's never really run out after that.
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Greg Barnes
climber
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eastside - we replaced the top anchors and Roger Brown replaced all the bolts on Omega Race, Vapor Lock, Slipstream (except the last few pitches), etc. Actually I think the top bolt(s) on Vapor Lock were stainless SMCs with 5/16" buttonheads so he may have left those.
Roger also replaced every single bolt on the main right wall of Dozier - Ursula, Out of Gas, Tune Up, etc.
Melissa - the bolt on the Coming is 90' out from the belay up the "5.6" knobs (my partners informed me that I was only 10' from the middle mark on a 60m last time we did it). Going straight up is slightly harder but gets pro in half that distance (nuts, thin cams), and is a better line.
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scooter
climber
fist clamp
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Bob-
You are right Out of Gas is really nice, Tiggles and I had a fun time on it. You and I scampered Ursula, right? As far as NAtural weaknesses on Medlicot go. THe Yawn is hard to beat.
Would love to see you sometime Bobzy.
Pat
""
last pitch of the Yawn.
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Jay Wood
Trad climber
Fairfax, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 5, 2009 - 10:21pm PT
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Good stuff.
The Yawn- also on the list.
I've done Hoodwink- memorable.
What IS the .10c crux of Ursula?
In the process with Ciebola- done the first pitch, but opted to come back to the top pitch when the rock is cooler. My experience of Sweet Jesus was so different- 1st pitch on a hot afternoon, greasy and insecure; and the whole route in the morning- solid, pleasant.
Hyperspace looks cool, if one could do the .10d crux...
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bob
climber
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Pat, you may see me sooner than you think. Sean and I have unfinished business. Oh so close. I'll contact you when I know exact. Meadows the whole way.
Jay, Shambles is an excellent line on Medlicott that has one of the best crack pitches in the Meadows that I've done. Sick. I re-bolted the route up until the end of the roof pitch. The roof bolts are positioned whack a bit just because they were initially placed on aid.......I'm pretty sure. You can rap I from under the roof with two I believe?
Another great trad route is Sandbag on Lembert. Its rated 10b+. Details at Falk's site. www.tuolumnemeadows.org Steep mantle crux with surprisingly steep flakes to take you to the top. One bolt, one pin all rest gear. 220 foot pitch after doing the first pitch of the Northwest Buttress. Scooter (pat) has done that one. He will vouch for it if he reads this.
Oh the Meadows.
Bob J.
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kev
climber
CA
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bump
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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The .10c on Ursula is a well protected move over an arch on (memory fading) the first or second pitch. Kind of low angled up to that point but it steepens going over that overlap. Clip a bolt, grab and thin, hard to see edge and step way out left and reach up and find something to crank on.
Though that's the technical crux, the money pitch is the one after--sustained .10a/b climbing for a whole pitch.
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Jay Wood
Trad climber
Fairfax, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 6, 2009 - 09:43pm PT
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I think you can't clip a bolt until after that move- risking a funky fall onto the slab below.....
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John Vawter
Social climber
San Diego
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Jay, I recall feeling quite snug and secure at the .10c move, which I marked as just above the third bolt on pitch 1. I also recall just a little rocking action up and onto the high, funky left foot smear and it's over. My notes show two fixed pins (YMMV) below the roof, and I marked the roof 5.9+. (!)
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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I might be passing thru the Meadows for a few days late next week. Right now I'm at 34,000 feet.
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Fuzzywuzzy
climber
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Chartres is a classic. If you have the chance- do it!!
Quite a passage through that section of stone.
It requires some comfort on vintage TM routes.
Ok climbing and gear, good location and no crowds.
TC
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Jay Wood
Trad climber
Fairfax, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 7, 2009 - 03:12am PT
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It's the transition from the apron onto the main wall that I thought was tricky. Before the first bolt. Rock on to a rounded slope WAY to the left.
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scooter
climber
fist clamp
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Ahh yes Bobzy, Sandbag .10b+. I like how the route dosen't really have a rating but there is a rating in the name. That is a very good pitch. Though I do remember we started to the right of the NW Corner but still ended up atop the little buttress right before the mega pitch. A pitch put up in true Tuolumne style. Bolted on lead with a hand drill from the available stances. Very respectable and very hard. Have you heard of a second ascent? I would like to go back there now that I am back to full strength.
PAt
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bob
climber
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Pat, Tiggles sent it no probs. its a boulder problem. We never ended up on top of the buttress though. We stayed in the rightmost corner that starts that route, but you veer left which we did not do. I got to the top of the corner to where it arches right to shizz and put the bolt in and headed up through all those flakes, pulling out left onto the arete on cauliflower heads to finish up as the last flake arches right. That was the end.
Sean did the mantle and reversed it then did it again cuz he fugged up his body position the first time. It was hilarious. Maw paw.
Maybe we can do Chartres while I'm up. Still don't know dates.
It is FUN FUN!
Bob
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