What's the oldest peice of gear on your rack?


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Gym climber
Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 5, 2007 - 02:05am PT
I had a job and finally got around to replacing just about every
piece of gear on my rack. Seriously, the oldest thing I've been
carrying now has been my chalk bag. The holes in it have holes,
and the wire around the rim pokes out so I have to push it back in.

At SushiFest IVXX, I poached a line where somebody had left their
draws dangling. Shet, I'd never seen such history on a route
before -- every draw had 1st generation Chounard biners on them,
top and bottom (with what I believe to be equally old 1" tublar
webbing!). Now Dang! there is some proud gear.

I have an old Peck nut in a display case, but dang if I'd climb
on it. And my original FallArrest, well I sent that to Fish a few
years ago.

So what's on your rack, any salami?
AndySan Diego

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Jun 5, 2007 - 02:25am PT
An Old Chouinard Hammer with the wooden handle.

Trad climber
Durango, CO
Jun 5, 2007 - 02:28am PT
I've got a Salewa "Royal Robbins" oval biner. I keep my nut tool on it. And a great old Chouinard nut, maybe a #13? It's the old, curved style, on perlon. It fits in some sideways placements just so perfectly.
Michael D

Big Wall climber
Napoli, Italy
Jun 5, 2007 - 04:10am PT
Sweet, drilled Hexes..just used them in Greece, and a Crack-n-Up just because it's fun to have on the rack, and has a high weight-to-conversation factor. Cheers

Trad climber
Butte, America
Jun 5, 2007 - 04:30am PT
One of those Chouinard lockers with the screw that goes the wrong way. Light, but confusing, at least to my simple mind.

Jun 5, 2007 - 04:53am PT

But a couple of drilled hexes, and some camp and chouinard stoppers are running a close race for second and third.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Jun 5, 2007 - 05:09am PT
I have a couple of old SMC ovals (about 3rd generation - small rectangular nose) that I keep my wired Rocks on. My nut tool might be old; I'm not sure. The hook is totally worn off it, so it looks like an ice pick.
My Name Is Drew

Big Wall climber
Dogtown, LosAngeles, CA.
Jun 5, 2007 - 08:58am PT

Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
Jun 5, 2007 - 09:31am PT
Early Chouinard ice hammer (before they had teeth near the head) with the pick cut off short. I ground a hook, a la Middendorf's A5, and drilled it for a funkness.

I also have some Eiger "death ovals" that are used for racking pins.

The big aluminum bong with holes in it stays at home.
scuffy b

The town that Nature forgot to hate
Jun 5, 2007 - 10:39am PT
#4 Stopper bought at the factory in 1971.
I've got some Bedayan carabiners but they don't go on the
rack anymore.
I figure, if it's on the rack at all, at some point it's going to get used.

Gym climber
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 5, 2007 - 10:40am PT
Mark, I should have known those were your "draws." Classic to see
those biners still in use (Riley, they were hangin' on a route
at the Circus).

And an ice pick for a nut tool? Too funny Clint! What's your
address, I just found a new one I'll send ya.
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Jun 5, 2007 - 10:53am PT
I assemble my "rack" per each climb accordingly, but my gear stash includes some real antiques.

Dolt pitons
a handmade by Yvon blade
a fifties Stubai hammer
the original spare bat tent from the WOTEML
a length of goldline
ring pitons
Peck crackers
Cassin ice pitons


Trad climber
San Francisco, Ca
Jun 5, 2007 - 11:32am PT
Some Chouinard era camalots- the ones that have cams that are about as thick as quarters, wired bliss TCUs, some hexes strung with thick, 80s era, neon green rope. and some A5 biners. Don't use any of this stuff anymore but I keep it around anyway.

Trad climber
Knob Central
Jun 5, 2007 - 11:42am PT
What old gear I have and what old gear I actually carry on my rack are 2 entirely different things. I have old oval biners and hexes and old stoppers but the oldest thing I still use all the time are Wired Bliss TCUs in size 1 and 2. The rest have been replaced by Metolius or some other brand of small cam, but those Wired Bliss were just so well built that I don't see them ever wearing out.
The Wretch

Trad climber
Forest Knolls, CA
Jun 5, 2007 - 11:48am PT
Not on my current rack, and old Leeper pin. It is ribbed like some potato chip. On my current rack, some 25 year old slings I keep
promising myself I will replace. Just can't seem to get to it.
ron gomez

Trad climber
Jun 5, 2007 - 12:49pm PT
Most of my rack is ventage mid 70's. Still use tied runners and perlon nuts, hexes that are drilled out, got some really weird russian nuts(home made). Racks that "shine" too much freak me out, not enough use yet.
Climber 46

Social climber
Ottawa, Ontario
Jun 5, 2007 - 01:04pm PT
It's a Simond stopper. I've owned it since '78 or '79 when I first started climbing. It was placed on my first muli-pitch trad lead at squamish (Diedre 5.7) and I just reslung it for my latest trip to the Valley and placed 5 or 6 times on Mescalito.


Ottawa Doug

Trad climber
the south
Jun 5, 2007 - 01:13pm PT
I Have a Forest bamnut that I love, that I traded a brand new Ushba nut tool to RRK to get. Now that the Ushbas are no more, maybe I can find some antique titons and get the Ushba back. (RRK is a SUCKER for Titons, his favorite piece of gear ever)

Not on the rack but could be are a couple of Titons, a first gen Friend, and a first gen Camelsnot, all in perfect condition.

The cams came from Bob Cormany, who placed his first cam ever, had it fall out the bottom of a crack, and never used em again.

Trad climber
Talladega, Al
Jun 5, 2007 - 01:19pm PT
most of my passive stuff is pretty old - I use the middle sizes of Titons 6-9 (old blue #9 not the drilled one) and the drilled hexes. The drilled hexes just seem to stick better somehow - I've got a rack of the new hexes in a stash box but don't even carry them anymore. Those Titons have a very high conversation value (in addition to being great pro). I've never hauled the rack out anywhere that other people are climbing without someone coming up to ask about them (so far all have been geezers like me but I'm still holding out hope for the curious young hottie in buttfloss) Various emergency get-aways over the years have depleted my old biner selection but I've still got an old SMC locker on my daisy from about 1977 and an old Clog locker from way back in the dinosaur days.


Trad climber
Sacramento, CA
Jun 5, 2007 - 01:23pm PT
I have some old gear that sometimes ends up on the rack.

I think I am the minority. I have been climbing for 26 years and I tend to keep my gear new.

If I climb like a putz at least me gear will shine.

Typicaly replace the rack every 2 years... I never toss the old (or not so old).
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