Old Geezers! (Yes you!) Write up your FA Stories and tidbits


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Social climber
A cova Dos Nenos
Nov 18, 2008 - 11:14am PT
Kev Dont make me beg! More!
bob d'antonio

Trad climber
Taos, NM
Nov 18, 2008 - 11:42am PT
After something like 1500 FA's it's the human element that shines in my mind eye.

Hat's off to all the folks I ever roped up with...it's been a great run.
Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 19, 2008 - 04:06am PT
Killer Story on the Crucifix! I stared at that thing for years of repeated NE Butt ascents until I finally did it with a buddy (you have to use the word "did" without total purity I'm afraid)

What a line! Always wondered what Powerpoint was like. Anybody repeat "the affliction" around the corner. That looks wild too.



Trad climber
On the road again!
Nov 19, 2008 - 10:03pm PT
This brings back so many memories. Bugsy taught me to ice climb. One summer, while in school, I got a ride from Yosemite to Seattle. Then George Myers and I hitch-hiked to the Bugaboos and climbed until George left to fight fires.
I did a first ascent on Snowpatch with Jon Jones and he gave me a ride to Calgary. Bugs and I then went on several trips in the Canadian Rockies and climbed a few first ascents while he was teaching me to ice climb. I also got to lead him up a crack on EEOR, I think.
Unfortunately, i have no photos. Bugs was so much fun to climb with. After that, I hitch hiked from Canada back to California and went to the Valley to climb until I had to go back to school.
It sure was fun being a teenager back then.
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Nov 19, 2008 - 10:20pm PT
Great stories! thanks so much for taking the time it takes to get them into written words.



Social climber
wuz real!
Nov 19, 2008 - 10:32pm PT
i've never climbed the crucifix, but we did do an early ascent of powerpoint, and looked over at it. That's an area where you want to be on your game. Nice report, with classic understatement, Mr Worrell.

Truckee, CA
Nov 19, 2008 - 11:58pm PT
Great story Kevin! What a fantastic line to just jump on, no messing around just pure adventure.

The final freeing of your amazing route went in stages, with Max Jones/Mark Hudon first freeing the upper two aid pitches, but not quite doing the vegetated arch entry problem. Gary Zaccor and I went up next linking Marys' Tears, aiding the then wet and slimy entry but we were stoked to fire the upper 11d pitches no falls (my lead, gary seconding). We thought the wide parts were stout, and I remember, as we had just started using cams, that we did not really trust them for belay anchors, and we were happy to be hanging on the more familiar #11 hexes in the alcove. A few seasons later Peter Croft went up and thoroughly gardened out the wet opening crack, then fired it the next day for the all free send.

One of the Valleys absolute finest lines, I am sure you are proud of that one!

nick d

Trad climber
Nov 20, 2008 - 12:53am PT
Thanks for that story Kevin! It was a great read, vividly communicated the emotions of being really committed far from the ground.

Oakland: what's not to love?
Nov 20, 2008 - 01:48am PT

Excellent read, Warbler, thank you.

Social climber
wuz real!
Nov 20, 2008 - 02:09am PT
Warbler- I Was the ropegun for that wide pitch, pretty much a contuous grunt.
i was glad to have to a Rope gun for the next pitch, the crazyass .11+ "Face"

Werner, Coz, you guys put that up, Right? Reid '94 does not have the FA team info.


Social climber
wuz real!
Nov 20, 2008 - 02:16am PT
That, and steep and incredibly exposed.

Maybe Werner will Chime in.

Social climber
A cova Dos Nenos
Nov 20, 2008 - 08:02am PT
Thats the stuff Kev.Tell us about any new SD. stuff youve been upto since Kauk and I visited you 20 yrs.ago.Got pics? Jay ,Were on the Crucifix
next spring.Iwas just going to send you an Email and ask you if you had done it.Ive got about 20 grade V free climbs I want to tick off.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Nov 20, 2008 - 02:42pm PT

Wow, great story of the FA of Crucifix! A day like that is something we dream about, and if we're lucky we might get to live it. Thanks for sharing!

You might have fun reading the story of another trip up the Crucifix, much later. It still packs a lot of adventure:



Werner and Coz are listed for the FA/FFA of Powerpoint in the 1994 guide - under Northeast Corner.

Social climber
wuz real!
Nov 20, 2008 - 04:11pm PT
Thanks Clint, got it. I wondered why there was a Topo and no FFA info.
Hardly Visible

Port Angeles
Nov 20, 2008 - 07:24pm PT
Great story Kevin!
Back to the front page with ya.

O a k t o w n
Feb 24, 2009 - 09:45pm PT
Cool TR Clint ( Mary's Tears / Crucifix )

Trad climber
One Place or Another
Feb 24, 2009 - 09:52pm PT
Haha! this was on my bump list for tomorrow!

Oh, well - I got more! :^)
Mighty Hiker

Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Feb 24, 2009 - 10:05pm PT
I'm trying, I'm trying.

But I resemble that remark about geezers.
scuffy b

just below the San Andreas
Feb 25, 2009 - 05:19pm PT
This thread has some real gems.
Two of Kevin Worrall's FA tales,
K-man on the FA of ShamDance, and
the real kicker, I think,
How jstan got started in the climbing
game. Check that one out.

"We'll get it back."

Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
Feb 25, 2009 - 09:22pm PT
wow, those warbler tales are worth a million bucks.

Man that Basket Dome thing sounds amazing.

Kevin, I don't think you ever told us the name of it, NOR posted any flicks. C'mon dog, hook a brutha up...
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