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Rocky5000
Trad climber
Falls Church, VA
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I have three, of much different ages and fade. They hold in pin scars and anything equally unlikely. A partner of mine once took three lead falls in a row on a pink in a spot at Jtree where nothing else would do. He bought me a new one, being a prince of a fellow, but I still use the old one too. Trust the Tricam!
I've never lost a tricam because I couldn't get it out; like any other cam, I don't jam it in as hard as it will go. There's a fixed, very faded pink halfway up Simple J Malarkey, at Seneca, and two small but expensive active cams permanently jammed at the second belay. Typical perhaps for a popular (and scary) training-lead.
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
Otto, NC
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The filed-down pinkie is the sign of one who has spent way too much time at Looking Glass.
So Jello-- was that the smallest you could make those, or what? Seems like lots of people would buy and use a sub-pinkie if it were available.
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dirtineye
Trad climber
the south
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Beware! The new pinkies are bigger than the old ones.
Anyone who knows their worth has two or more.
Yes you can overcam tri-cams, just let the tail rails touch the same side of the surface the point touches, good luck getting that one back.
WHY are people rhapsodic about the pink tri-cam???
IF you have to ask...
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Jerry Dodrill
climber
Bodega, CA
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Nice for those little horizontal slots in Tuolumne, like Ed said.
I can think of two stuck pinkies. One is at or just above the second belay of Bears Reach at the Leap, and the other is on the first pitch of Fish Hook Arete. Both have been there a while. I assume they are still there. (?)
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golsen
Social climber
kennewick, wa
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I think the original was RED. I remember obtaining it in the 80's and the color was changed to better match ones lycra....
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GOclimb
Trad climber
Boston, MA
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Also perfect for solution pockets (think small round holes) in granite, where absolutely nothing else will go, and a tricam is completely bomber and easy to get in and out. Whitehorse in North Conway has a few pitches where the only pro you can get in 50 meters of slab is a few tricams.
GO
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BenLyon
Trad climber
Alabama!
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Got double in pink...and red...singles in brown and blue.
These are key pieces in the SE and Western North Carolina.
The pink caught my sorry butt not long ago when a blue TCU popped out of a crappy, flairing placement as I whizzed past.
The red caught a single piece winger I treated myself to two weeks ago.
Oh yeah.
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AbeFrohman
Trad climber
new york, NY
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dont climb in the gunks without your tricams. although, admittedly, i havent been placing mine much. i need more practice.
i've heard from some about grinding down their .5s - anyone care to share some pix or details?
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wbw
climber
'cross the great divide
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If yer stayin' in the pink, it can't be wrong.
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
Knob Central
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I used my pink one on Black Widow at Tuolumne last Saturday. If you have a couple pinks that route gets a G rating, without tricams it is a sure R.
If you want to know why we praise the pinky like no other, go do routes on Power Dome at Courtwright Reservoir. There is NO other pro available on the last pitch of most routes there. Whoa to you if you venture there without them.
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Apocalypsenow
Trad climber
Cali
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Great piece....however gets stuck easy.
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dirtineye
Trad climber
the south
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If you'd stop putting them in your ears and up your nose they would not get stuck so easily, Apocy.
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dirtineye
Trad climber
the south
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HEY pocraplips, I'm just trying to help you out of yoru little problem. Post stalker.
I have the giant one myself, actually two, and one is still stuck in a big crack in the BSF. When you need one of those you really need one.
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CAMNOTCLIMB
Trad climber
novato ca
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Pink has kept my ass out of the dirt. Simple, clean, works.
Brian
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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RCA in the Meadows, the only route I've used that piece on in 35 years of climbing; I can also see how they'd help on Black Widow.
I typically don't carry them and really don't like wiggling them out of regular crack placements, but if someone tells me I need one for a pocket, than I've got a red and a pink to cover those "nothing else will work" placements. The Courtwright Res, Gunks, N Carolina, Whitehorse tips sound smart.
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