Classic Ice Primer- Chouinard Catalog 1968

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RDB

Social climber
wa
Apr 5, 2012 - 09:05am PT
Hey Steve, it is Carlsberg in Field BC..just out of Lake Louise. The consumate WI5 in the Canadian Rockies @ soft 3+ conditions last week.

Now that I think about it this needs a link here for a little "back then and now" :)

http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2012/03/then-and-now.html
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 7, 2012 - 12:03pm PT
Done that tall cold one...just didn't recognize it!
Rick A

climber
Boulder, Colorado
Apr 7, 2012 - 12:57pm PT
Dane

Good to see you not just remembering the old climbs, but doing them!

Rick
Fritz

Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
Apr 7, 2012 - 05:16pm PT
Rick! You have a very good point about Dane still climbing some difficult ice, rather than just remembering past glories.


He has hardly changed since the 1970's.

Dane &#40;on left&#41; & Chris waiting for the train to Talkeetna in 1...
Dane (on left) & Chris waiting for the train to Talkeetna in 1976. Note the two 60 CM. Chouinard axes on the Blue Lowe Alpine pack. I still own that pack & one of those axes.
Credit: Fritz

We were (cluelessly) off to our Hayes Range adventure on Deborah & Hess.
Rick A

climber
Boulder, Colorado
Apr 8, 2012 - 08:28am PT
Fritz-

Love that picture of the young Dane. It reminds me of this terrible, out of focus shot of Mike Graham,in the Gare de Lyon in Paris, taken the same year, 1976, with much the same gear.
Credit: Rick A


We were on our way to Chamonix and we were surprised to meet another American climber headed there , the guy behind Mike. Anyone recognize him?

Rick
RDB

Social climber
wa
Apr 8, 2012 - 09:31am PT
"In the Gare de Lyon in Paris". The same memories and pictures for 1978 as well. Part of the pilgramage back then. And even sweeter last winter going back because of the first trip. Thanks for the reminder Rick.

Hey Fritz! :) Haven't changed? Don't we all wish?! Rick knows better having met him for the first time at Jeff's BD party last Fall. It was a week after my neck disection and just prior to chemo and radiation. Now 50 pounds lighter, climbing the old classics again is a LOT easier!

But speaking of the old days...what studs these guys were!



Envers des Aiguille 1963, John Harlin, Tom Frost, Gary Hemming, Stewart Fulton.

"The heyday of the "wild ones" in the sixties. This group was credited with putting up many new routes in the Alps during that time, most significantly the first ascent of the south face of the Aiguille Du Fou (with John Harlin, Tom Frost and Gary Hemming) a smooth wall of sheer rock long deemed to be unclimbable."

And watching Jesse ratchet it up on the Dru again decades later brings real joy to my heart.

http://www.alpineexposures.com/blogs/chamonix-conditions/5916109-dru-north-couloir-direct


Brian in SLC

Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
Apr 8, 2012 - 10:08am PT
Wow...fantastic shots!

Hey, isn't that Jesse guy climbing with BD's Stinger crampons? Uhh...aren't they stainless?

Ha ha...

Cheers, and, keep those photo's coming!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 8, 2012 - 10:20am PT
The Alps is a great chapter in the upcoming Frost book!

Most folks have seen the AAJ and Summit articles about the 1963 season but this December 63 Sierra Club Bulletin is harder to find.

Thanks to Bill Amborn, here is Tom's account.





Rick A

climber
Boulder, Colorado
Apr 8, 2012 - 11:07am PT
Steve,

Great find. The Pilier Derobe is still a highly respected route and was a great achievement for Frost and Harlin. Truly the hard way back to Chamonix from Courmayeur!

Freney face of Mt. Blanc, February 2011.  <br/>
It may be possible to see ...
Freney face of Mt. Blanc, February 2011.
It may be possible to see the Pilier Derobe left of the Central Pillar?
Credit: Rick A

RDB

Social climber
wa
Apr 8, 2012 - 08:35pm PT
this thread continues to put a smile on my face..year after year.
steve shea

climber
Apr 9, 2012 - 06:53am PT
Yes it is one of the best threads. That pitch over the final ice bulge on the Dru Couloir Direct is the most difficult alpine ice pitch I have ever done. We retreated from just above it on much easier ground due to circumstances beyond my control. Jack Roberts, Mugs Stump, Randy Trover and me. Rick and Tobin went back the following week and did the route. It was my first alpine mixed climb in the Mt Blanc. and worthy of a write up someday. Quite an epic we had.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 9, 2012 - 07:57am PT
We're all ears brother!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 17, 2012 - 07:04pm PT
Bump for a story on a wintry night...
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 6, 2013 - 02:08pm PT
Classic Bump!
ydpl8s

Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
Jan 10, 2013 - 11:24am PT
Going to re-bump!

This thread probably has more pictures of my early climbing heroes than any. I especially like the pics of "Drunken Ferguson":-)
zBrown

Ice climber
chingadero de chula vista
Jan 13, 2013 - 07:15pm PT
blimp - in conjunction with Jim's Ouray thread

RDB

Social climber
wa
Feb 21, 2013 - 12:14pm PT
A thread that should never be out of sight :)


Jeff Steet on modern Snoqualmie ice
carlos gallego

Ice climber
Spain
Feb 22, 2013 - 11:34am PT
Hello... new here and very please to see so good climbers.
I met Steve Brewer and Mark Richey in 78... they climbed Chacraraju East... and our group the West... Bouchard/Meunier route.
Please permit me a photo for all you..
Credit: carlos gallego

Credit: carlos gallego
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 22, 2013 - 06:12pm PT
Bienvenidos Carlos!
carlos gallego

Ice climber
Spain
Feb 23, 2013 - 02:24am PT
Thanks, Steve... IŽll try to collaborate from the old Europe... with old and not so ones photos and histories of climbing activities.
The stuff in the above photos was the one of the years... wooden and plastic iceaxes Stubai Nanga Parbat... salewa crampons and 50m. 9mm. single rope.
We found a rock peg from Bouchard/Meunier first climb... and made two bivouacs. Fantastic climb and hard in those years.
To congratulate Rick A... for the first ascent direct Dru couloir.
I tried in winter 91... but too hard for us... we retreated in the rock section.
Credit: carlos gallego
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