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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Feb 19, 2010 - 10:35pm PT
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Just finished "Chris Bonnington, Mountaineer"
More pictures of the elusive MacInness handiwork:
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RDB
Social climber
way out there
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Feb 28, 2010 - 10:03pm PT
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Speaking of classic ice :)
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Wow! There is some seriously great reading on this thread. It sure beats the hell out of my new Rock and Ice photo issue, and the pictures are better too. How did so many of you California guys get so into waterfall ice. I know there was a great Montana crew that had the goods close at hand. Any of you guys got some good stories about coming into the Yellowstone aera to climb ice? I know there is a good story about the first ascent of California Ice in the Beartooths in Joesephson's guidebook.
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Fritz
Trad climber
Hagerman, ID
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I am sorry to say the Photobucket Photos I posted earlier in this thread are all gone. I organized my Photobucket files a month ago and screwed up the links to Super-Topo.
At that time: I posted to a warning to Supertopo users, but I notice this week that others are "feeling my pain" when they move Photobucket photos.
Sorry, for the missing photos, but at this time, there is no way to fix that on older thread replies on ST.
Fritz
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RDB
Social climber
way out there
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No worries unkie Fritz just repost them all :) Not like anyone will complain!
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Mar 10, 2010 - 10:17am PT
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Trundle Bumb!
That’s pure class through and through!
From the motorbike with bare hands clutching the clip-ons, tooling through the countryside (what is that, BSA, Triumph, Royal Enfield ... Norton? Crank case covers seen at the end should be a giveaway)…to the cool jazz with standup bass and top kit…the stage is well set and I am enamored of that Scottish countryside with which they nicely treat and frame the context.
He’s well mic’d and it’s an artistic visual story; with a traditional conclusion!
Next we need John Cleare and Leo Dickenson?
http://www.mountaincamera.com/about_john_cleare_new_2.htm
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Mar 10, 2010 - 10:20am PT
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Fritz:
You may be able to recover your picture placement if all you did was rename folders in photo bucket...
In that case you just return the folders to their original names and your picture placement will be restored.
I made that simple mistake and corrected it just last week.
Now if you moved pictures, it's possible that if you replace them in their original spot in folders with their original names all will be well...
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 8, 2010 - 10:38pm PT
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Our own DR lovin' that Sierra ice! From Mountain 11 Sept 1970.
I'd like to get some sleep before I travel, but if you got some front points I guess they're gonna sink in...hey now keep on truckin' on!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 11, 2010 - 03:26pm PT
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Some thoughts on the ice game from master Andre Contamine as they appear in AAJ 1969.
Hail to "the glorious uncertainty of the Sport!"
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 17, 2010 - 12:34pm PT
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A slowly melting Bump.....That could re-freeze!!!
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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praying for refreezing
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Woz
Trad climber
NSW, Australia
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May 10, 2010 - 08:14pm PT
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Hi guys,
Came across this great thread whilst slowing compiling an online record of those long lost catalogs. Wonderful stuff here. Keep it coming.
You might also be interested in my modest effort, which is very slowly endeavouring to chart the evolution of innovative outdoor gear, by scanning old catalogs from the 70s and 80's, and trying to cobble together a historical timeline.
http://homepage.mac.com/inov8/Compass/compass.html
Also take a peek at the Links page, as it references some other excellent online resources that I'm sure would intrigue some, like the vintage nuts, carabiners and crampons sites.
cheers, Warren.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - May 16, 2010 - 06:53pm PT
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I have sets of both early Footfangs just shown. I still climb in the latest rounded heel version of them.
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skinner_ab
Big Wall climber
Calgary, Alberta
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May 19, 2010 - 09:16am PT
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I'm glad someone found this thread and resurrected it for me to stumble upon. It's really got me wondering who RDB is as I look through all the photos of climbs.. many of which are now considered Canadian Classics. The names, Tobin Tobin Sorenson, Bugs McKeith, etc., etc. all of my hero's at the time.
I *thought* it was Bugs who brought the first set of Terrors to Calgary? and soon after all the Big - Steep ice began to be climbed via aiders directly attached to their tools. I remember going to a slide show shortly after the first ascent on Takakkaw Falls. A huge feat at the time, and a moderate WI 4 climb today (except for the 14km ski approach). I'd love to see some more photos of these climbs from the 70's, finding them seems to be getting harder and harder as everyone here seems to ice climb these days and searching the web for anything with the words "ice climbing" in it, returns a couple million photos of classic ass-shots from last season
PS: what you referred to as "snarks",.. weren't they called "snargs"? either way, I never did trust them, it was that long slot that they began cutting into them to allow you to clean the ice out that I thought really compromised their integrity.
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Fritz
Trad climber
Hagerman, ID
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May 20, 2010 - 01:19am PT
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Skinner-AB: Re your question?
got me wondering who RDB is as I look through all the photos of climbs
Spokane WA/CDA ID boy: Dane Burns lurks and posts on ST from time to time. I climbed with him some BITD. He is still climbing, and was/is very much the "real deal."
You can contact him thru his Super-Topo link.
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skinner_ab
Big Wall climber
Calgary, Alberta
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May 20, 2010 - 03:13pm PT
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Thanks Fritz, greatly appreciated! I'm surprised I didn't run into him with all the climbing he did in Canada. In the early-mid 70's climbers were a sparse commodity here. In fact we tried counting all the climbers in Calgary once, and at the time and came up with "20". Needless to say, if you ran into another climber, chances were very good that you knew them.
Did you do any climbing in Alberta Fritz?
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Bschmitz
Ice climber
mountain view
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May 20, 2010 - 03:21pm PT
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Dane Burns is still climbing well: Spent a couple days with him up in Canada last season. CLimbed the weeping wall and polar circus with him. Amazing that the guy who did the 2nd ascent of slipstream is still getting after it!!!!! Plus he makes some awsome mods!
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Fritz
Trad climber
Hagerman, ID
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May 21, 2010 - 12:35am PT
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Skinner-AB: I did make trips to Alberta and the Bugs for climbing, twice a year from Moscow Idaho: 1974-1980. However we were just part of the crowd. I had good times, interesting climbing, skiing, and drinking.
Unfortunately, some of my early photos have vanished from this thread, due to re-organizing my Photobucket photos.
I first hit Banff for waterfall climbing in early 1974.
We had never climbed frozen waterfalls, but knew Banff area had a concentration of waterfall climbing.
Chris & I checked into the Mount Royal?? and next morning drove around looking for the rumored frozen waterfalls. We soon spied Cascade Couloir and Rogan’s Gulley. The decision was, try Rogan’s immediately and save the impressive Cascade, until the end of the trip.
I974 Fritz on Cascade Couilor. Note: Jensen pack, Chouinard bamboo axe and wood alpine hammer, Dachstein mitts, Ultimate helmet, Chouinard crampons, and Galibier leather double-boots.
That afternoon, we climbed Cascade, and also met Dane Burns and his climbing buddy Gwain Oka. Later on, my most severe waterfall was Louise Falls, which was a three-winter project, before I finally got up the icicle pitch.
Other than that: the Alberta climbing was doing "trade routes."
I reported the most interesting, and the most nearly fatal in this thread.
Climbing the Chouinard route on Mt. Fay in 1978.
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=977914&msg=1101473#msg1101473
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