Classic Ice Primer- Chouinard Catalog 1968

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Doug Robinson

Trad climber
Santa Cruz
Feb 5, 2009 - 08:18pm PT
That's the first thing I've seen on this thread that looks like Don Jensen's MacInnes ice hammer. Pick is the right angle, and notice how thick it appears.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Feb 5, 2009 - 09:01pm PT
And this little excerpt from Annapurna South Face (climb summited May 27, 1970),
Referring to an "all metal" MacInnes axe w/ steep pick and particular notes on Chouinard tools.
(Curved adze reference in the text is I think intended to mean pick?)


Then, "The Whillans Whammer"?!?
Described earlier in the appendix:

"an all-purpose modern tool combining a descendeur, ice-pick and hammerhead."

WTF?
An ice tool with integral descending/rappel device?
Doug Robinson

Trad climber
Santa Cruz
Feb 5, 2009 - 09:15pm PT
Can't be too careful. You just never know when you'll suddenly need to bail...


WHAM! -- and down I go
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Feb 5, 2009 - 09:36pm PT
... Introducing the Whammer!
Another Whillans FIRST:

 The hammer smartly fitted with multi-functioning head!!!
 Suited both to drive pitons and serve as a descendeur (though not simultaneously, lads...)
 Gripped in standard fashion, it's a hammer.
 Turned 'round 180°, it's an ice dagger.
 Whilst flipped neatly on its head, the handle functions as a motor car gear change selector.
 Low gear gets you to base camp in tidy time for the blood pudding.
 Just pull back a tad for high gear; and you're at the pub spot on schedule!!!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 5, 2009 - 10:24pm PT
Now there's a tough photo to find! No sign in your book, Roy! I recall a spaceage little goodie!
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Feb 5, 2009 - 10:53pm PT
heh... no sign of it in the book's pictures.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 6, 2009 - 11:03am PT
And only thirty or forty Bonnington books to peruse! LOL
Doug Robinson

Trad climber
Santa Cruz
Feb 6, 2009 - 11:14am PT
Yeah, and most of em not worth the trouble...Sir.

I'll look for my literature over on the William S. Burroughs thread, thanks.
RDB

Trad climber
Iss WA
Feb 6, 2009 - 04:26pm PT
How about more of this?


Eric and Luci photo.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 7, 2009 - 12:37am PT
You always did like your Lunch Naked!!!
RDB

Trad climber
Iss WA
Feb 7, 2009 - 12:44am PT
On the Dru Coulior '73.



Ian Clough or Hamish McInnes? Same lineage? McInnes axe from the late '60s. One of the very first full metal axes with a red rubber/plastic coating. Gordon, know anything more?
DR is this similar to the axe you remember Don Jensen was using?




Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Feb 7, 2009 - 01:27am PT
That is a really cool find Dane!
'Pushes our vintage axe conversation right on down the road...
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Feb 7, 2009 - 01:34am PT

RDB

Trad climber
Iss WA
Feb 7, 2009 - 01:37am PT
It is the hole in the axe's head and the funky "nail" end spike that makes me think they are the same or at least a similar production McInnes axe. I don't think Nicky Clough is climbing with a matched pair of tools in the picture.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Feb 7, 2009 - 01:49am PT
Yes, also the oval stamp on the pick of the ax in each picture.
I'm perhaps spotting some differences with her north wall hammer as well.
Neat stuff.
Doug Robinson

Trad climber
Santa Cruz
Feb 7, 2009 - 02:04am PT
That's Don's tool!

Thick pick. Might have been a bit straighter than that.
Two worthless little half-round divots on the underside. Check.
Shaft is right. The rust-red stuff is rubbery.
His was the hammer, remember, like the one in Nikki's other hand.

Where on earth did you turn that up, Dane?

I had to have one too. Found an axe version, and my metal-worker friend Thomas cut off the adze and welded me on a hammer face. After I had Chouinard gear, John Fischer took that hammer to South America and left it with a local. No photos remain.
Jello

Social climber
No Ut
Feb 7, 2009 - 03:51am PT
Tut Braithwaite on that simul-solo Dane mentioned way up thread:

Yvon Chouinard and John Cunningham near the top of Ben Nevis:

Shelter Stone Crag with the Line of Citadel dead center:

Gordon Smith heading up Citadel in 1975:

Ben Nevis in clearing storm:

Our "cheating machine" in '75. We were filming Yvon and Johnny for a never-released Nat'l Geo extravaganza, and were ferried each day to the top of the mountain!

Clocwise from top left, on the summit of Ben Nevis: Yvon Chouinard, Johnny Cunnigham, Hamish McKinnis, Tut Braithwaite:

Zero Gully dead ahead, Hadrian's Wall and Point Five up and right:

Closest thing to Scottish ice in Colorado? Duncan Ferguson and Mark Wilford on Englishman's Route, Hallets Peak, mid-80's.

Duncan totally stylin', as always:

Mark & Dunc:

Duncan, MasterOfTheThinIceUniverse, Ferguson:

Jello, shaking his way up the Smear of Fear, in the spirit of the Scots:

Jello again, tickling the North American Crystal, on the Glass Pony Shop, Jaque Cartier River, Quebec:

Ephemera, Jaque Cartier River:
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 7, 2009 - 04:18am PT
Tut and Jeff on Ice Again! YC's caption reads "piolet traction is being used where it belongs here!"


Nice shots Jello!

Wee Jock- I am no lover of flexible ethics even if it's Hamish doing the tweaking! The aid matter was put to bed with Polar Circus and the Bugs McKeith chapter over here. The line is always clear if you are straight with yourself.
Jello

Social climber
No Ut
Feb 7, 2009 - 04:27am PT
Thanks, Steve, it was fun digging them out. Now it's time for both of us to get some sleep!
Wee Jock

climber
Feb 7, 2009 - 06:04am PT
Hi Steve, old bean .... I'm not really talking about flexible personal ethics, I am wondering about the ethical principles that are the accepted ethics in winter climbing today behind, for example, 'torquing' as free climbing Vs 'French Free' pulling up on a jammed nut as aid climbing. Should using ice axes on/in rock, as opposed to ice (and frozen turf) be considered aid? (I would say yes) Do crampons qualify as 'nailed boots' (I would say yes and traditionally using them is not aid, even on rock) ... but ice-axes qualify as sky-hooks and crack'n'ups. Or is it the same ethical leap in principle as the leap between cutting and pointing and therefore OK in principle?
Just an old fart wondering about the new ways and wishing that there was an icy goulotte someplace in the steamy jungle back of the boat anchorage......

By the way, Dane I am far to young to know anything about that red handled beasty thing in your photo
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