Classic Ice Primer- Chouinard Catalog 1968

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scuffy b

climber
On the dock in the dark
Jan 20, 2009 - 04:34pm PT
Seeing that nobody seems to use those wool balaclavas
any more...

and that they're my favorite...

and that I lost my last one...

can anybody set me up?
RDB

Trad climber
Iss WA
Jan 20, 2009 - 05:50pm PT
Try here:

http://www.joe-brown.com/outdoor-equipment/clothing/hats-and-gloves/trailwise-wool-balaclava.html

The real thing in all the colors!
scuffy b

climber
On the dock in the dark
Jan 20, 2009 - 06:41pm PT
Thanks, Dane.
Fritz

Trad climber
Hagerman, ID
Jan 20, 2009 - 11:23pm PT
Dane: You blog Diva!!-----thanks for crediting me for the last three Alaska photos you posted.

I swear: I will send you the CD of Deborah pics soon.

Fritz
RDB

Trad climber
Iss WA
Jan 20, 2009 - 11:49pm PT
Fitz...sorry man! Certainly not an intended slight. Happy to go back and credit you with the photos, past, present and/or any thing in the future :)
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Jan 20, 2009 - 11:53pm PT
I've made that mistake as well ... what with the frenzied fun and all.
It's important to recognize that that darned edit button goes away after a bit of time, so changes are near impossible after that point...
RDB

Trad climber
Iss WA
Jan 22, 2009 - 01:55pm PT
I was looking at my hickory handled piolet this morning. Noticed it has a dbl set of teeth in the pick and 3 rivets in the handle and the single CHOUINARD script, which makes it a later production axe. Axe was purchased in late '76 or '77. Anyone know when they stopped building ash and hickory shafts?
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 23, 2009 - 12:20am PT
I recall that those shaft options were replaced by the laminated bamboo but the date must be earlier than '76. Have to ask Tom about the switch.

Here is the house quiver of bamboo axes.

Left-Original Piolet from the early 70's with four teeth that I added by the shaft. Two crosspins.
Mimi's upside-down Zero and my Zero Northwall hammer.Three crosspins. The darker tools have been pine tarred.




Reverse stamp on the older Piolet.
Todd Eastman

climber
Bellingham, WA
Jan 23, 2009 - 01:10am PT
What was sold in Europe may be different than what was made specifically for the american market and sold by Chouinard. I think that 1978-79 was the shift from bamboo to the blue fiberglass shafts. Ash was rarely seen in North America and hickory seem to have disappeared by 1974 and replaced with bamboo about then. Rexilon was available while the bugs were worked out of the bamboo. Oh those nasty cracks next to the tangs. It took skill not to break gear.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Jan 23, 2009 - 11:21am PT
Grossman!
Front and center: clean your weapons soldier.
Maybe start with some cotton wadding with the polishing compound. (Never Dull)
Maybe amend the polish in the wadding with a plastic Scotch Brite to knock off the rust; or some extremely fine steel wool.

Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 23, 2009 - 12:04pm PT
Well change my name to Rusty! LOL

Definitely Scotchbrite time, when I can carve it out.

I don't recall a RR ice axe either. Just ropes, carabiners and shoes from him.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Jan 23, 2009 - 12:34pm PT
I vaguely remember Robbins importing those orange axes...
RDB

Trad climber
Iss WA
Jan 23, 2009 - 01:12pm PT
Todd may remember better than I. But iirc, the axe Robbin's Mtn Shop (Mountain Paraphernalia) sold was made by "La Parade" and was the Rene Desmaison model. Hell for stout with a metal shaft/ plastic grip and a funky bump on the top of the head. All in day glow orange with a blue handle. I took a couple of them with me to SE Alaska on a surveying job in '77.


This is the hickory piolet I was thinking about. 3 rivet shaft, dbl teeth and 55cm. It was bought in England. Thanks for the observations.







Doug Robinson

Trad climber
Santa Cruz
Jan 23, 2009 - 03:53pm PT
This one's for Rusty!

I mean, barely presuming to post here w/o so fine a grade of steel wool, let alone blueing...Sir!

Before any of out times, thank you, but here's an ice piton (50s?)





with a rock pin of the same era for comparison



Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 24, 2009 - 10:36pm PT
Ahh, the era of drive-ins! The movies were gone by the time anyone really worked that one out. Nice one ,Doug.

Patrick Sawyer

climber
Originally California now Ireland
Jan 25, 2009 - 07:13am PT
I had that Forrest ice hammer, and a piolet along with the Chouinard Alpine Hammer. Dana Couloir was the first place I used them back in 1972 if I recall correctly. With Chouinard-Salewa cramps and Galibier Super Guides (great boots).

I had a Jensen pack also EDIT a green one.

Don't know what happened to all that stuff over the years, I know I sold some when hard up for money.

Still have my North Face Ibex sleeping bag from 1969.

EDIT
Still reading through this thread. I had a Simond Chacal. I thought it was cool and used it in Lee Vining.


EDIT
I had a pair of Trappeurs, heavy as a friggin' car, had a little 'gaiter-like' 'sleeve' or whatever you want to call it (cuff?) at the top. Only used them a couple of times.


Doug wrote: It's odd, maybe, that I don't recall Don ever going to the Valley. Grew up in Walnut Creek,.

Hey, I was born and raised in Walnut Creek and Lafayette. Was Jensen from there?

Don lost it on black ice on his bicycle and slid headfirst into a stone wall while a Postdoc in Mathematics in Scotland in the early 70s.

For some reason I always thought he was hit by a car while bicyling in Scotland. Regardless it was a loss. I met him once but I can't recall where, perhaps one day at the PSOM, but he wasn't instructing there when I went, at least I don't think so.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 25, 2009 - 10:56pm PT
From the 72 catalog.



Two pounds!!!!
marty(r)

climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
Jan 25, 2009 - 11:08pm PT
Damn, those are some beautiful tools! I love the new pick/adze of the silver BD Raven, but the cursive engraved name and bamboo/hickory/ash to metal contrast can't be beat. Those ice daggers, however...YIKES!
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Jan 26, 2009 - 01:21am PT
Always thought that Jensen shot was pretty artful.

2 pounds: hardly anything to it in terms of structure; in a way like monocoque automotive design, nothing in the way of framework, all exoskeleton.

That one looks like it has an arched zipper on the back side of the pack (up top), rather than along the back panel as all I had seen were fitted.
RDB

Trad climber
Iss WA
Jan 26, 2009 - 02:09am PT
The first Jensen's I saw were all green and had a zipper on the front of the pack as pictured above from the catalog. The second version was rust colored and had a zipper next to your back. The Giant Jensens I saw were also rust colored and zip next to your back.

Ray's pack in the picture below has the same zipper placement.


Ray Brooks photo
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