Classic Ice Primer- Chouinard Catalog 1968

Discussion Topic

Return to Forum List

Post a Reply

Messages 541 - 560 of total 567 in this topic

<< First | < Previous | Show All | Next > | Last >>

RDB

Social climber

Apr 5, 2012 - 09:05am PT

Hey Steve, it is Carlsberg in Field BC..just out of Lake Louise. The consumate WI5 in the Canadian Rockies @ soft 3+ conditions last week.

Now that I think about it this needs a link here for a little "back then and now" :)

http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2012/03/then-and-now.html

Steve Grossman

Trad climber

Seattle, WA

Topic Author's Reply - Apr 7, 2012 - 12:03pm PT

Done that tall cold one...just didn't recognize it!

Rick A

climber

Boulder, Colorado

Apr 7, 2012 - 12:57pm PT

Dane

Good to see you not just remembering the old climbs, but doing them!

Rick

Fritz

Trad climber

Choss Creek, ID

Apr 7, 2012 - 05:16pm PT

Rick! You have a very good point about Dane still climbing some difficult ice, rather than just remembering past glories.

He has hardly changed since the 1970's.


	Dane (on left) & Chris waiting for the train to Talkeetna in 1976. Note the two 60 CM. Chouinard axes on the Blue Lowe Alpine pack. I still own that pack & one of those axes. Credit: Fritz

We were (cluelessly) off to our Hayes Range adventure on Deborah & Hess.

Rick A

climber

Boulder, Colorado

Apr 8, 2012 - 08:28am PT

Fritz-

Love that picture of the young Dane. It reminds me of this terrible, out of focus shot of Mike Graham,in the Gare de Lyon in Paris, taken the same year, 1976, with much the same gear.


	Credit: Rick A

We were on our way to Chamonix and we were surprised to meet another American climber headed there , the guy behind Mike. Anyone recognize him?

Rick

RDB

Social climber

Apr 8, 2012 - 09:31am PT

"In the Gare de Lyon in Paris". The same memories and pictures for 1978 as well. Part of the pilgramage back then. And even sweeter last winter going back because of the first trip. Thanks for the reminder Rick.

Hey Fritz! :) Haven't changed? Don't we all wish?! Rick knows better having met him for the first time at Jeff's BD party last Fall. It was a week after my neck disection and just prior to chemo and radiation. Now 50 pounds lighter, climbing the old classics again is a LOT easier!

But speaking of the old days...what studs these guys were!

Envers des Aiguille 1963, John Harlin, Tom Frost, Gary Hemming, Stewart Fulton.

"The heyday of the "wild ones" in the sixties. This group was credited with putting up many new routes in the Alps during that time, most significantly the first ascent of the south face of the Aiguille Du Fou (with John Harlin, Tom Frost and Gary Hemming) a smooth wall of sheer rock long deemed to be unclimbable."

And watching Jesse ratchet it up on the Dru again decades later brings real joy to my heart.

http://www.alpineexposures.com/blogs/chamonix-conditions/5916109-dru-north-couloir-direct

Brian in SLC

Social climber

Salt Lake City, UT

Apr 8, 2012 - 10:08am PT

Wow...fantastic shots!

Hey, isn't that Jesse guy climbing with BD's Stinger crampons? Uhh...aren't they stainless?

Ha ha...

Cheers, and, keep those photo's coming!

Steve Grossman

Trad climber

Seattle, WA

Topic Author's Reply - Apr 8, 2012 - 10:20am PT

The Alps is a great chapter in the upcoming Frost book!

Most folks have seen the AAJ and Summit articles about the 1963 season but this December 63 Sierra Club Bulletin is harder to find.

Thanks to Bill Amborn, here is Tom's account.

Rick A

climber

Boulder, Colorado

Apr 8, 2012 - 11:07am PT

Steve,

Great find. The Pilier Derobe is still a highly respected route and was a great achievement for Frost and Harlin. Truly the hard way back to Chamonix from Courmayeur!


	Freney face of Mt. Blanc, February 2011. It may be possible to see the Pilier Derobe left of the Central Pillar? Credit: Rick A

RDB

Social climber

Apr 8, 2012 - 08:35pm PT

this thread continues to put a smile on my face..year after year.

steve shea

climber

Apr 9, 2012 - 06:53am PT

Yes it is one of the best threads. That pitch over the final ice bulge on the Dru Couloir Direct is the most difficult alpine ice pitch I have ever done. We retreated from just above it on much easier ground due to circumstances beyond my control. Jack Roberts, Mugs Stump, Randy Trover and me. Rick and Tobin went back the following week and did the route. It was my first alpine mixed climb in the Mt Blanc. and worthy of a write up someday. Quite an epic we had.

Steve Grossman

Trad climber

Seattle, WA

Topic Author's Reply - Apr 9, 2012 - 07:57am PT

We're all ears brother!

Steve Grossman

Trad climber

Seattle, WA

Topic Author's Reply - Nov 17, 2012 - 07:04pm PT

Bump for a story on a wintry night...

Steve Grossman

Trad climber

Seattle, WA

Topic Author's Reply - Jan 6, 2013 - 02:08pm PT

Classic Bump!

ydpl8s

Trad climber

Santa Monica, California

Jan 10, 2013 - 11:24am PT

Going to re-bump!

This thread probably has more pictures of my early climbing heroes than any. I especially like the pics of "Drunken Ferguson":-)

zBrown

Ice climber

chingadero de chula vista

Jan 13, 2013 - 07:15pm PT

blimp - in conjunction with Jim's Ouray thread

RDB

Social climber

Feb 21, 2013 - 12:14pm PT

A thread that should never be out of sight :)

Jeff Steet on modern Snoqualmie ice

carlos gallego

Ice climber

Spain

Feb 22, 2013 - 11:34am PT

Hello... new here and very please to see so good climbers.
I met Steve Brewer and Mark Richey in 78... they climbed Chacraraju East... and our group the West... Bouchard/Meunier route.
Please permit me a photo for all you..


	Credit: carlos gallego


	Credit: carlos gallego

Steve Grossman

Trad climber

Seattle, WA

Topic Author's Reply - Feb 22, 2013 - 06:12pm PT

Bienvenidos Carlos!

carlos gallego

Ice climber

Spain

Feb 23, 2013 - 02:24am PT

Thanks, Steve... I´ll try to collaborate from the old Europe... with old and not so ones photos and histories of climbing activities.
The stuff in the above photos was the one of the years... wooden and plastic iceaxes Stubai Nanga Parbat... salewa crampons and 50m. 9mm. single rope.
We found a rock peg from Bouchard/Meunier first climb... and made two bivouacs. Fantastic climb and hard in those years.
To congratulate Rick A... for the first ascent direct Dru couloir.
I tried in winter 91... but too hard for us... we retreated in the rock section.