Discussion Topic |
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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Topic Author's Original Post - May 14, 2007 - 09:35pm PT
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Hi Phil,
I see that you have posted here for a bit and your name has come up, but you deserve a proper welcome. Lots of your old climbing and camp mates post.
I hope all is well. How precipitous is the view past 60? I still am trudging up the near side of the hill so to speak.
All the best, Roger
PS: Thanks Anne-Marie
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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May 14, 2007 - 10:00pm PT
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Yes, welcome. But shouldn't someone warn Phil about the 10.96s on ST?
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Anne-Marie Rizzi
climber
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May 14, 2007 - 10:04pm PT
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Who can forget that classic photo of Gleason on 10-96?
Anne-Marie
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Mimi
climber
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May 14, 2007 - 10:53pm PT
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That would be in Ascent 1973, the Rise or Fall of the YDS by Bridwell.
Gotta love that phantom bong! (Above his head in the close-up photo).
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
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May 14, 2007 - 10:55pm PT
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thanks Mimi - route still looks plenty scary IMO
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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May 14, 2007 - 10:56pm PT
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Showed, Me, the way
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Mimi
climber
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May 14, 2007 - 11:05pm PT
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Here you go Jaybro. Vintage wideness and the first real comparitive Valley ticklist.
Pratt's Crack near Bishop.
The wide section of the ticklist.
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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May 15, 2007 - 10:28am PT
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I actually used that, ascent, list Mimi. A little lax on the 10c's but counted edge of night when the 'new' guide made it a a 'c'.
Never made it to basket case, though
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Blowboarder
Boulder climber
Back in the mix
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May 15, 2007 - 11:04am PT
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Mimi, please post the next shot of him whipping out of that thing.
Welcome, old man. Still no Idaho in your short term plans?
Somebodystyleedit: Anybody got any pix of Hawkman's Escape?
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bachar
Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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May 15, 2007 - 11:23am PT
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Phil Gleason - the man, the myth, the legend....welcome bro!
Still into wide cracks?
Cheers, John
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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May 15, 2007 - 11:57am PT
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I did my first long Yosemite climb with Phil, Arrowhead Arete. We almost got killed by lightning. Then I followed Phil up a bunch of other stuff I could never have led in a 1,000 years. All of us who came from Upland used to hang around Phil's older brother, Paul, so it was natural to tag along with Phil. That first summer, we had almost no gear at all and things got a little thin on some of the offsize routes we did. I remember Phil leading the Apron Jam with one nut.
JL
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mattstan
Social climber
Seattle
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May 15, 2007 - 01:26pm PT
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I met Phil up at Skaha in 1993, where he regaled my partner and me with tales of his super-fantastic bouldering area in Washington. "Of course, it's totally secret ... wanna check it out?" It was indeed super-fantastic and has actually remained largely untrammeled. (Of course, Blowboarder keeps posting pix of it.)
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streetshoes
Social climber
Tucson
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May 16, 2007 - 02:41pm PT
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Wait a minute.....I thought Phil Gleason was dead already...
If not, he had promised me that he would have his Tonasket home for broken-down (or is that broken-up) climbers well-established with the prerequisite rockers by now. I'm about ready to move up there...
My most memorable moment with Phil was bivouacing in a cave at the base of the descent off N. Ridge of Slesse. A full-on romantic evening with Mt. Baker (is that right?) shining in the full moon.
We....oh, er, I guess this is a family-based forum and I shouldn't get into details......unless of course Phil himself wants to respond..
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flamer
Trad climber
denver
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May 16, 2007 - 04:26pm PT
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Those 10.96 pic's have gotten alot of mileage over the years....they seem to pop up again just when Phil stops getting hassled about the fall....then the cycle starts over.
The whole Gleason family is just plain nuts....and wicked fun to be around.
Welcome Phil! Anytime you want to come to Colo you just let me know.
josh
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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May 16, 2007 - 09:55pm PT
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Will anyone with a Mountain #31 please post the plunge?
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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May 16, 2007 - 10:08pm PT
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That pic doesn't give due to the true steepness of the thing. That's Hangdog Flyer just to the left, in that thin corner, and that is really and truly overhanging, pimping with your feet up by your hands.
JL
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Mimi
climber
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May 16, 2007 - 10:23pm PT
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That is cool Joe! The manly way again. No pro of course. But then I think of Dave grabbing the etrier on Butterballs. They don't call it 10.96 for nuthin. You've got to be crazy to do that shite!
Largo, didn't you post a funny story about being sandbagged on it by Bridwell?
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WBraun
climber
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May 17, 2007 - 12:24am PT
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Overdrive
Now there is an obscurity and short approach that no one ever goes to anymore.
Classic route.
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Blowboarder
Boulder climber
Back in the mix
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May 17, 2007 - 01:33am PT
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Of course, Blowboarder keeps posting pix of it.
Pix are fine, topo's and mapquest printouts are not. Bolts are a no go too. Always room for cool people...
Phil, looking honed, like always...
One of the Gleason offspring...
Another Gleason progeny displaying proper spot form (yeah whatever, where's the growler?}
out of focus, out of frame, simply an awesome problem...
well, not quite a growler but good form nonetheless...
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Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California now Ireland
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May 17, 2007 - 08:48am PT
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It was indeed super-fantastic and has actually remained largely untrammeled. (Of course, Blowboarder keeps posting pix of it.)
Uhhh, is that the area where Blowboarder says there's a rattler every two steps (or something like that)?
If so, "remained largely untrammeled" sounds reasonable.
Patrick "Mr Snakephobia" Sawyer
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PhilG
Trad climber
The Circuit, Tonasket WA
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May 17, 2007 - 07:06pm PT
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Thanks Roger, thanks one and all for the Welcome. I feel like I just got welcomed to a "virtual" campfire circle, surrounded by an amazing group of climbers.
Yes "streetshoes" I'm still alive (despite your several attempts on my life by taking me on death climbs). And yes that night on Slesse remains one of my best memories.
Stories and plans, just like the ole' camp 4 campfires this is a good place for both.
Streetshoes, you going to have any time for climbing this summer? I feel ready for another adventure!
Phil
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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Topic Author's Reply - May 17, 2007 - 08:16pm PT
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Hi Phil,
Good to 'see' you. ST is a "virtual" campfire, with quite a few real climbers, some real warmth, and some "virtual" climbers. Quite a few of the climbers from those years in the 70s postup.
That picture that Blowboarder posted up-thread of you pulling that rock down on top of your head is very disheartening. Looks awfully real (with no qoute marks) to me. Sixty, huh?
Best, Roger
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Blowboarder
Boulder climber
Back in the mix
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May 21, 2007 - 03:31pm PT
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One day, this spring, some canyon in Ewash.
Not sure what the rope is all about but....
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streetshoes
Social climber
Tucson
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May 25, 2007 - 07:01pm PT
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Hey Phil,
Sorry for the slow response....was actually out on the rock for a change.
Yes, I'd like to do an adventure this summer, and I'll have lots of time if I end up divorced (hee hee -- more than two thirds serious)
I remember my few years in the Okanogan as having just the right amount of climbing, but way too little sex -- that's why I had to leave.
What time frame are you looking at for adventure??????????
Atwitter with anticipation.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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May 25, 2007 - 09:46pm PT
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Welcome to the kooky and historically rich loony bin of the Super Taco Phil.
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pimp daddy wayne
climber
The Bat Caves
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May 28, 2007 - 05:21pm PT
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You are the man Phil!!
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microwave dave
Boulder climber
Caldwell
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I met Phil in the early 1980's. He was living in the semi-wilderness area of the upper Okanogan in Washington, quietly and without fanfare rescuing bobcats and reintroducing them back into the wild. Over the course of one summer he taught me how to boulder and rock climb. He was one of those remarkable people that remain forever ingrained on the emulsion sheet of your memory. He was an awesome coach, and leader, and I feel honored and privileged to of known him. Live on Sgt. Rock.
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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For me, the best thing about Supertopo is all the fine people that I have met. Phil is right near the top. It has been several years searching for some dirt in the Okanogan and Phil has been a great help. I look forward to the day we can be neighbors and hang out on the porch with a beer and some other goodies. Cheers, buddy.
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Sport climber
moving thru
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I believe I met Phil at the Face Lift in the "ditch". :) If memory is working, Phil came up the next morning after the C-4 Bachar Memorial and gave us a contribution, very thoughtful as it was pretty much funded out of pocket. Great meeting you Phil. Your grand kids are lucky/blessed to have you in their lives.
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