Welcome to Phil Gleason

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Messages 1 - 20 of total 32 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Roger Breedlove

climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
Topic Author's Original Post - May 14, 2007 - 06:35pm PT
Hi Phil,

I see that you have posted here for a bit and your name has come up, but you deserve a proper welcome. Lots of your old climbing and camp mates post.

I hope all is well. How precipitous is the view past 60? I still am trudging up the near side of the hill so to speak.

All the best, Roger

PS: Thanks Anne-Marie
Mighty Hiker

Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
May 14, 2007 - 07:00pm PT
Yes, welcome. But shouldn't someone warn Phil about the 10.96s on ST?
Anne-Marie Rizzi

climber
May 14, 2007 - 07:04pm PT
Who can forget that classic photo of Gleason on 10-96?

Anne-Marie
Mimi

climber
May 14, 2007 - 07:53pm PT
That would be in Ascent 1973, the Rise or Fall of the YDS by Bridwell.



Gotta love that phantom bong! (Above his head in the close-up photo).
Raydog

Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
May 14, 2007 - 07:55pm PT
thanks Mimi - route still looks plenty scary IMO
Jaybro

Social climber
The West
May 14, 2007 - 07:56pm PT
Showed, Me, the way
Mimi

climber
May 14, 2007 - 08:05pm PT
Here you go Jaybro. Vintage wideness and the first real comparitive Valley ticklist.

Pratt's Crack near Bishop.


The wide section of the ticklist.
Jaybro

Social climber
The West
May 15, 2007 - 07:28am PT
I actually used that, ascent, list Mimi. A little lax on the 10c's but counted edge of night when the 'new' guide made it a a 'c'.

Never made it to basket case, though
Blowboarder

Boulder climber
Back in the mix
May 15, 2007 - 08:04am PT
Mimi, please post the next shot of him whipping out of that thing.


Welcome, old man. Still no Idaho in your short term plans?

Somebodystyleedit: Anybody got any pix of Hawkman's Escape?
bachar

Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
May 15, 2007 - 08:23am PT
Phil Gleason - the man, the myth, the legend....welcome bro!

Still into wide cracks?

Cheers, John
Largo

Sport climber
Venice, Ca
May 15, 2007 - 08:57am PT
I did my first long Yosemite climb with Phil, Arrowhead Arete. We almost got killed by lightning. Then I followed Phil up a bunch of other stuff I could never have led in a 1,000 years. All of us who came from Upland used to hang around Phil's older brother, Paul, so it was natural to tag along with Phil. That first summer, we had almost no gear at all and things got a little thin on some of the offsize routes we did. I remember Phil leading the Apron Jam with one nut.

JL
mattstan

Social climber
Seattle
May 15, 2007 - 10:26am PT
I met Phil up at Skaha in 1993, where he regaled my partner and me with tales of his super-fantastic bouldering area in Washington. "Of course, it's totally secret ... wanna check it out?" It was indeed super-fantastic and has actually remained largely untrammeled. (Of course, Blowboarder keeps posting pix of it.)
streetshoes

Social climber
Tucson
May 16, 2007 - 11:41am PT
Wait a minute.....I thought Phil Gleason was dead already...

If not, he had promised me that he would have his Tonasket home for broken-down (or is that broken-up) climbers well-established with the prerequisite rockers by now. I'm about ready to move up there...

My most memorable moment with Phil was bivouacing in a cave at the base of the descent off N. Ridge of Slesse. A full-on romantic evening with Mt. Baker (is that right?) shining in the full moon.

We....oh, er, I guess this is a family-based forum and I shouldn't get into details......unless of course Phil himself wants to respond..
flamer

Trad climber
denver
May 16, 2007 - 01:26pm PT
Those 10.96 pic's have gotten alot of mileage over the years....they seem to pop up again just when Phil stops getting hassled about the fall....then the cycle starts over.

The whole Gleason family is just plain nuts....and wicked fun to be around.

Welcome Phil! Anytime you want to come to Colo you just let me know.

josh
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
May 16, 2007 - 06:55pm PT
Will anyone with a Mountain #31 please post the plunge?
Largo

Sport climber
Venice, Ca
May 16, 2007 - 07:08pm PT
That pic doesn't give due to the true steepness of the thing. That's Hangdog Flyer just to the left, in that thin corner, and that is really and truly overhanging, pimping with your feet up by your hands.

JL
jghedge

climber
May 16, 2007 - 07:13pm PT

You can tell by the angle the trail line is hanging how steep it is.

Me and Schultz went to do the feared 10.96 one day...and he laybacked up it (no pro) in about 30 seconds. 5.9+, we thought. We spent more time flaking and coiling the rope than actually climbing the route.
Walleye

climber
The Land of the Big Stone
May 16, 2007 - 07:21pm PT
Hey H Joe..

Just another tick on the Monkeys list eh....


Reinhard Karl sending the harder of the two..

EDIT: JH, did you both call it 5.9+ or just Dave??
Mimi

climber
May 16, 2007 - 07:23pm PT
That is cool Joe! The manly way again. No pro of course. But then I think of Dave grabbing the etrier on Butterballs. They don't call it 10.96 for nuthin. You've got to be crazy to do that shite!

Largo, didn't you post a funny story about being sandbagged on it by Bridwell?
Walleye

climber
The Land of the Big Stone
May 16, 2007 - 07:31pm PT
I once timed Dave Schultz on Wheat thin when we were hanging around on the Nabisco Wall fuchin around. I belayed and timed him. 2 minutes 5 seconds belay to belay, feet paddling the whole way. Phew.. Yosemite Phew.. 5.9+ phew....Hot and pot Pphheewwww!!
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