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sunjule
climber
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so what's up - everyone out climbing or the contrary?
Here are a couple of pictures to show you what Europe's best granite looks like :)
Finally got to the mountains during last w-end, and not anywhere - an enchanting spot, paradise for beginners, but also for advanced masters of the art. Overshadowed by Chamonix, the great neighbour, this backside of the Mt Blanc chain hides some real treasures - like the Clocher du Portalet, one of the rare, vertical to overhanging pieces of granite on 200 meters of perfect stone. Maybe it is not an equal to El Cap, but given the environment, the glaciers and the wonderful free climbing lines, it's not far.
We tried our teeth on Esprit du Clocher, beautiful crack line on the East face, just around the corner from the North one harboring such beauties as Etat de Choc by Remy brothers. This wall has to be seen to be believed - an incredible bit of rock sticking out from the ground, perfectly vertical and enourmously steep. The route prooved to be a bit over our heads - we reached the top grumbling and spending the whole day (+ 3 hour approach) there - alone, as another party bailed on the South-East pillar route.
After a nice 'accueil' at Orny hut, we went up for the second objective - the Aiguilles Dorees. Even further out in the wild, demanding some snow skill at Saleina window, these 400m faces are another wonder of this place.
What awaited on the other side, was certainly worth coming for. Maybe less impressive and vertical (in the first half), Aiguille de la Varappe has gorgeous climbing. Less difficult, on golden granite, it was perfect if not for the wind that chilled us to the bone on the first pitch. Aiguille d'Argeniere looked condecendingly on our efforts, with only 2 other humans crossing the glacier up to Saleina through the day. Certainly the Chamonix crowds are not interested in this place.
Mixing a couple of routes (Eole et Je suis le vent) we got 2 short pitches from the top, to only descend tired and satisfied. What a stone! Have to come back as many routes are still there, especially on Aiguille Sans Nom further in the Dorees chain, as well as on Portalet.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 2, 2007 - 12:16pm PT
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That's a side of the range I haven't heard much about, but the rock looks just as good as Cham -- maybe better, if there's less fixed gear and traffic. Why is it "overlooked"?
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sunjule
climber
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It is an area known mostly for beginner alpinists, with straightforward glaciers and easy summits. However to reach the first hut there is 2-3 hour approach, and another 1-2 hr to get to the routes. Cham offers easier access with less up-hill walking if you will and suffers from its popularity and crowds. As for this 'backcountry' you can often be alone on the wall on summer w-ends - granite is top-notch, and not that many bolts around either. Ok, i'll stop cause i don't really want to see more people there!
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Off White
climber
Tenino, WA
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A few shots from cragging in the Cascades with my son a couple weeks ago:
The Mule, a 5 pitch 10a at the base of the North Face of Big Four.
Dreamer, a 10 pitch 5.9 in the Darrington area.
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GOclimb
Trad climber
Boston, MA
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Julia, sounds great! Would love to get out there sometime and check out all those lovely cracks you seem to have there.
My weekend had no climbing, but was an adventure, nevertheless.
Allison:
and I moved into a nice 2 bedroom apartment. Very excited about it. The physical crux is done (I love table-saws), but there's a long endurance climb ahead before we reach the top. It's our biggest adventure together so far, and we're both enjoying the challenge.
GO
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 6, 2007 - 12:57pm PT
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Off White, your crags have real atmosphere.
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sunjule
climber
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Gabe - good luck, you deserve it!
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 7, 2007 - 12:28pm PT
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Julia, you still thinking about a big move? To Canada with its own alpine flavor?
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sunjule
climber
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Aug 10, 2007 - 06:05am PT
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Going there in September for a month to sample what all the hassle is about :). Btw if anyone is around Canadian west coast and wants to climb in september - let me know!
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sunjule
climber
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Aug 10, 2007 - 06:05am PT
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Ups, double posts happen here too :
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GOclimb
Trad climber
Boston, MA
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Aug 10, 2007 - 09:54am PT
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Sorry, already have fall trip out west planned (RR). Definitely need to get to Squamish one of these years, though.
Good luck to you as well, J!
GO
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murcy
climber
San Fran Cisco
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Aug 10, 2007 - 10:58am PT
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careful with that table saw!
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 12, 2007 - 09:51am PT
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sunjule:
Going there in September for a month to sample what all the hassle is about :). Btw if anyone is around Canadian west coast and wants to climb in september - let me know!
Rumor has it there are a few Canadians on the Topo. They don't yet know what a legend you are, however. By way of introducing you I was looking around for the_pirate's fine early-years Ukranian Power action/portrait, or that oddly racy post-bivy photo GO posted awhile back. Both more engaging and probably embarassing than the standard alpine shot, but fortunately I haven't located them yet.
And since this is the Random TRs thread, I'll toss in a name-this-route shot for the Gunkies, from yesterday. Very popular and recognizable fun-pitch, with peace-loving although defensive wildlife at the base.
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sunjule
climber
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Aug 14, 2007 - 01:43pm PT
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larry, don't know why, but i also think it's a good thing you didn't really find those pics...
here is a picture from my w-end (not fair to play 'name that route i guess...)
oh, and this is from the day afterwards, same place, the other side of the valley :)
and that's the view from the top - to make it easier to at least recognize the valley!
...
ps - still waiting for the lurking canadians!
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GOclimb
Trad climber
Boston, MA
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Aug 14, 2007 - 02:08pm PT
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Larry, that's a gorgeous photo of that copperhead! As for the pics of Julia, I could post them for you, but if she doesn't want 'em online, that's that, so far as I'm concerned.
No climbing for me this last weekend. Surfing. Something I suck at even more than climbing. Love it, too, though!
Julia - why all the tiny pics? I think those are very nice photos, but hard to tell!
GO
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sunjule
climber
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Aug 15, 2007 - 03:37am PT
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here you go - just for GO :)
and
and
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 15, 2007 - 08:52am PT
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Much better!
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GOclimb
Trad climber
Boston, MA
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Aug 15, 2007 - 09:19am PT
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Gorgeous, thanks!
Hey, in that first pic, how is that snow on the far peak staying attached? It looks like it's just kinda sitting there thumbing its nose at gravity.
GO
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Michael Hjorth
Trad climber
Copenhagen, Denmark
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Aug 15, 2007 - 11:30am PT
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Well, not that difficult (the 2 first), Sunjule.
First picture is from Aig. du Chardonnet towards Aig. Verte. The two snow ramps / couloirs are Couturier (left) and Codier (rigth). Mont Blanc and the "Camel Ridge" (Bosse du Dromedaire) is seen in the background.
Second is Chardonnet's north ridge (AD or something).
Last one looks nice and juggy (and tilted). But where, hm, I don't know.
Michael
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sunjule
climber
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Aug 16, 2007 - 04:14am PT
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GO - those are hanging glaciers on Aiguille Verte. How they manage to exist - i never got the physics of it all, there is probably some critical mass idea or maybe the lower part fell off at some point - not sure.
Micheal - you are right, pics taken from Migot route up Chardonnay and the Chardonnay summit. Last pic much harder, it's from the other side of the valley - Aiguilles Rouges, a very nice route by Pallandre up Brevent (not alpine at all, you finish on telepherique and go down with it happily to food and beer).
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