The Good Book

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Messages 101 - 120 of total 137 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Nov 27, 2010 - 04:00pm PT
The Good Bump.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
May 14, 2011 - 03:19pm PT
Classic Laybump!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Mar 11, 2012 - 05:48pm PT
The Good Bump rides again...
Studly

Trad climber
WA
Mar 11, 2012 - 05:57pm PT
a photo from above last Fall. Lots of big stuff came down.
I bet the Book is still Good however!

Credit: Studly
Dr.Sprock

Boulder climber
I'm James Brown, Bi-atch!
Mar 11, 2012 - 05:59pm PT
my favorite is paul 16:1 where he says that

all good men shall imbide in the sweetleaf and find harmony among his brethren and sisteren,

and so it is written.

on earth, as it is in heaven,

that means you don't have to die, you can experience heaven rite here on earth,


David Wilson

climber
CA
Mar 11, 2012 - 09:37pm PT
did this route in the fall. it was as good as I recalled from my last ascent in the 80's. splitter valley cracks. we wore helmets, for whatever that's worth given the size of the rock fall in question. the first pitch is exposed to incoming, but all the rest of the route was untouched by the rock fall and is protected by the right leaning corner
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Mar 11, 2012 - 10:44pm PT
I climbed up to Security Ledge, I believe it's called, one day with Yabo, to see if the route might go free. There was some talk around camp of the possibility, but nobody had taken the initiative. The start of the corner was wet and grassy, and full of little frogs. I was careful not to squish any as I slowly nailed up the crack on 1 inch and 1 1/4 inch angles. After about thirty feet of gardening, it was done, and one little frog continued up the crack in a full body stem, one hand and foot on one side of the crack, the other hand and foot on the opposite side, facing out looking me right in the eye.

I was optimistic about freeing it.

We freed The Right side of The Folly shortly after Bridwell and I did The Crucifix. Bridwell had chosen that name before we climbed it, and I had no objections, so The Crucifix it was. In that era, free climbing was such an important emerging facet of Yosemite climbing, aid routes that were done free were renamed, typically with a new name completely different than the original. Astroman, Freeblast, Freestone are examples.

In that spirit, after trying to think of an appropriate new name for The Folly, and sleeping on it, I approached Big Jim and suggested The Good Book. As with The Crucifix, I liked the "religious" theme because our little tribe was devoted to climbing like many are to religion, only our "place of worship" seemed more real and powerful than theirs. I told Jim I thought it was a cool name because the big open book was open in the direction of and visible from Camp Four, and beckoning all the climbers who lived there to read its contents, so to speak

Plus it's just plain good.

The Godfather approved, and the name stuck.

David Wilson

climber
CA
Mar 12, 2012 - 11:29am PT
better have a couple more pics for this thread

pitch 2
pitch 2
Credit: David Wilson

5.9 offwidth on last pitch
5.9 offwidth on last pitch
Credit: David Wilson
WBraun

climber
Mar 12, 2012 - 12:20pm PT
The Godfather approved, and the name stuck.

LOL

The "Good Book" is one of the all time best climbs in Yosemite.

If you haven't done "The Good Book" you haven't been to Yosemite .....
BASE104

Social climber
An Oil Field
Mar 12, 2012 - 04:13pm PT
I have nothing to say. I never did the route. Damn.
scuffy b

climber
heading slowly NNW
Mar 12, 2012 - 04:17pm PT
I'm going to go to Yosemite one of these years, I hope.
WBraun

climber
Mar 12, 2012 - 05:43pm PT
Definitely not the Good Book.

This means you've never been to Yosemite .... :-)
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Mar 12, 2012 - 08:18pm PT
Last pitch of Reed's Direct Route up there - Werner's never done it, the boom box gets wedged.
all in jim

climber
Mar 12, 2012 - 09:18pm PT
Credit: all in jim
TrundleBum

Trad climber
Las Vegas
Mar 13, 2012 - 04:20am PT
I did it a cpl of times BITD
Once with J. Rutt
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Ok so Bus' out, who's got the skinny?
I want to hear a recount of Yabo's solo, peal/recovery !

Werner ?
jaaan

Trad climber
Chamonix, France
Mar 13, 2012 - 04:59am PT
Thanks Warbler. I'll delete the post now as it has nothing to do with the thread. I do remember climbing GB in 1980 and finding the offwidth (last?) pitch the hardest. So what part of the route has fallen down?
That photo of all in jim's just above is fabulous...
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Mar 13, 2012 - 09:54am PT
No part of the route has fallen down, but large pieces of the cliffs high above have, so the base and big ledge below the corner have been hit by rockfall.
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Mar 13, 2012 - 10:59am PT
great thread with some great images
here's a low resolution image of The Folly that's tweaked up to be contrasty and revealing...



of course Good Book is the right facing corner on the right, mostly in the shadows, the picture also shows the infamous Wild Thing pretty well...

you should always take note of the vegetation around the base of the cliffs, if there isn't any it's usually from gravitational pruning...
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Mar 13, 2012 - 01:00pm PT
Nice clean photo, Ed.

You can see the alternate start possibility real well that I mentioned upthread. It would begin in that S-curving obtuse dihedral about 50 to 100 ft left of the standard broken start.Traverse left a bit at the top of the first dihedral and belay on a horizontal fracture/white ledge. Pitch two would follow a right leaning seam to another horizontal fracture line, possibly an alternate belay, and find it's way to a shadowed, shallow vertical right facing corner which leads to the big ledge.

I always thought The Left Side of the Folly above Childhood's End could make a good free route - one pitch looks pretty vegetated, but there are some cool looking cracks and corners up there....
David Wilson

climber
CA
Mar 13, 2012 - 01:01pm PT
Great pic Ed - do you know where the line of Wild Thing is in that photo? Looks kind of discontinuous to the left of Good Book
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