Never done a lick of aid.


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Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
Jul 22, 2007 - 03:23pm PT
Apparently, an important tradition and history of activity, long seen as central to the climbing community, is slowly being lost. Inaccurate terminology is the just the first symptom of a malignanoma taking over.

For the record:

You DROP acid
You LICK toads
You EAT mushrooms
You PUKE peyote.

Got it?

There is an aid climbing forum at [url="" target="new"][/url] that has all sorts of information, tips and tricks. Some of it is "big wall theory" (i.e. crap) and some is quite good.

With all due respect to John & John, some of the techniques in their book are either dated, or otherwise not as good as other ones.

A conspicuous example is how they show retreating from a wall with the haul bag clipped to the harness, a painful method that doubles as a crude form of birth control. The proper technique is to clip the pig directly to the rappel rig, daisy yourself to it with some slack, and then ride it down.

Another technique not found in their book, but you should know, is the froggy-style method of ascending a steep rope. You use a petzl basic clipped low to the leg and waist loops (not the donut) and a single jug with a sling for both feet. Especially on free hanging ropes, this is much better than the two-jug Yosemite system.

PTPP, as editor of the notorious Chongo big wall-climbing book, gleaned and then disseminated much valuable info at
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
Jul 22, 2007 - 08:53pm PT
So you're still around, Tom? How 'bout a wall this fall?

Chongo's book is great and well worth the hundred bucks. You can get it Please mention my name when you order it.

You can also find lots of links at my [url=""]Index to Dr. Piton Stuff,[/url] which has some of the best stuff on soloing you can find anywhere.

Or just email me with specific questions, I'm pretty fast at the typing.

Social climber
St. Looney
Jul 22, 2007 - 09:05pm PT
Gotcha Tom. :)

My own confusion stemmed from something else though. In some parts, "lick" is a synonym for "any". For example:

"I never done a lick of work in my life"
"You'll never git a lick of sense out of that boy"
"Dayum! I aint' got a lick of money (or acid) in my pocket!"

That is where I was confused with the title suggesting that the OP had never "done a lick of acid."

This has been your back-woods-talk public service announcement. I now return you to your regularly scheduled program...

Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Jul 23, 2007 - 09:46pm PT
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