Never done a lick of aid.

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Prod

Social climber
Charlevoix, MI
Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 24, 2007 - 10:13am PT
Short of yanking on gear to get past a crux that was over my head. But I am interested in getting into it. Read the Fish's sh#t on aid and big walls (pretty entertaining and insightful). Anyway I am looking for some good books and websites to gain a bit of a conceptual framework. I am also interested in Aid Soloing. Eventually I'd like to check out some big walls.

I am fairly experienced free climber, and have been at it since 89. Mostly trad in Eldo with Tarbuster, plus a bit of bouldering and sport climbing when I was out west.

Thanks for your help.

Prod.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Apr 24, 2007 - 10:34am PT
Get that old school icon Tarbuster to show you the secrets of the thrashin' an a danglin'. Plenty of wall rats in Boulder just go find one. Beyond that, no single book on aid technique or wall climbing stands out. Jared Ogden's book seems to be the best thing out there so far except the plastic exploding inevitable (Chongo's tome). Castle Rock overhang awaits you.......
Prod

Social climber
Charlevoix, MI
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 24, 2007 - 10:44am PT
Hey Steve,

That broken f*#ker (Tarbuster) can hardly tie his shoes anymore much less pull down on aid gear. I now live in Michigan (for now), so the boulder crew is a bit of a hike. Back when I was climbing with Roy he never wanted to do any aid climbing, thought it was too cumbersome and not as aesthetically pleasing, or some sh#t like that. Really though he just wanted to juice every bit of belay slave out of me on his obscure tick list of Colorado and the desert, and had no time for aid climbing.

Prod
goatboy smellz

climber
colorado
Apr 24, 2007 - 10:51am PT
Clearly your time in Michigan has caused you to go mad if you’re considering the dark arts.

k-man

Gym climber
SCruz
Apr 24, 2007 - 11:01am PT
The Largo/Duecy book is the real deal.

Look out there, there's a bunch of stuff you can find, like
this page right here on the Taco:

http://www.supertopo.com/climbingareas/bigwalls.html
Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Apr 24, 2007 - 11:06am PT
Do aid,....get laid....
Russ Walling

Social climber
Out on the sand.... man.....
Apr 24, 2007 - 03:04pm PT
oops... thought that said "I've never done a lick of acid". Back to the sushi threads....
Crimpergirl

Social climber
Hell on earth wondering what I did to deserve it
Apr 24, 2007 - 03:06pm PT
Hahaha! I thought it said acid too. Wild.
Euroford

Trad climber
chicago
Apr 24, 2007 - 03:38pm PT
since your up in michigan, what would it take for you to make the commute to devils lake wisconsin? some good practice aid routes and i would be fun for me to spend the day corrupting another person on the basic art of cheating.

Prod

Social climber
Charlevoix, MI
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 24, 2007 - 03:49pm PT
Hey Euroford,

If I go up and over through the U.P. it is around 10 hours, going down to Chicago takes me 6 hours. I am guessing that you are more that 4 hours away? Planning on hitting S. Dakota and Devils Tower this summer, Devils lake could work as a link up. I am also not adverse to flying if there is a airport near by.

Prod.
Euroford

Trad climber
chicago
Apr 24, 2007 - 03:59pm PT
ouch thats a hike! as i should have known, i grew up in michigan and get up to midland fairly regularly. seams like allot of trouble just to stand around in aiders at an 80' tall crag!

maybe you could make the road trip down to chicago on a friday, then i could take over the drive into wisconsin saturday morning. might be a good way to kill off a weekend.

eh well, score my email addy off the taco and shoot me one sometime.

Holdplease2

Big Wall climber
Yosemite area
Apr 24, 2007 - 04:25pm PT
Jared Ogden's big wall book is outstanding...up to date, well illustrated, basic enough for total beginners, but with broad information so that just about anybody could benefit from reading it.

Also, its really well written.

-Kate.
k-man

Gym climber
SCruz
Apr 24, 2007 - 04:28pm PT
I've never done a lick of acid

I think I saw the guy that did.
Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Jul 22, 2007 - 03:01am PT


Artist's Tears, Colorado River Rd. Moab, Utah.

Try this on for size.
Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Jul 22, 2007 - 03:02am PT
Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Jul 22, 2007 - 03:15am PT
wack-N-dangle

Gym climber
the ground up
Jul 22, 2007 - 10:08am PT
I have a copy of Climbing Big Walls I'll mail to you if you wouldn't mind mailing it back. Send me e-mail.

You can tie your own etriers. With a little work, you can make a pair pretty cheap. Get different color webbing if you can. Some use 3 or 4. I was just cheap. I used cut up milk bottles as stiffeners. I would double the inserts or add duct tape if I had to do it again.

Find someone to give your some tips. Church Bowl and the Boulder behind housekeeping were easy places to start. Maybe pay one of the SAR guys their NFS "living wage", and ask for a few hours of demos.

Then again, take this advice with a grain of salt. I didn't get very far in my aid climbing career.
426

Sport climber
Buzzard Point, TN
Jul 22, 2007 - 10:20am PT
Prod PM me with yer addy, I got something (instructional) for you...
Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Jul 22, 2007 - 12:05pm PT


Greig Arch, Cove, New Mex.
Blinny

Trad climber
NWMontana
Jul 22, 2007 - 12:40pm PT
I thought it said ACID, too!

HohMahn!

:-)

eKat
Tom

Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
Jul 22, 2007 - 03:23pm PT
Apparently, an important tradition and history of activity, long seen as central to the climbing community, is slowly being lost. Inaccurate terminology is the just the first symptom of a malignanoma taking over.


For the record:

You DROP acid
You LICK toads
You EAT mushrooms
You PUKE peyote.

Got it?





There is an aid climbing forum at [url="http://www.rockclimbing.com" target="new"]Noob.com[/url] that has all sorts of information, tips and tricks. Some of it is "big wall theory" (i.e. crap) and some is quite good.

With all due respect to John & John, some of the techniques in their book are either dated, or otherwise not as good as other ones.

A conspicuous example is how they show retreating from a wall with the haul bag clipped to the harness, a painful method that doubles as a crude form of birth control. The proper technique is to clip the pig directly to the rappel rig, daisy yourself to it with some slack, and then ride it down.

Another technique not found in their book, but you should know, is the froggy-style method of ascending a steep rope. You use a petzl basic clipped low to the leg and waist loops (not the donut) and a single jug with a sling for both feet. Especially on free hanging ropes, this is much better than the two-jug Yosemite system.


PTPP, as editor of the notorious Chongo big wall-climbing book, gleaned and then disseminated much valuable info at noob.com
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
Jul 22, 2007 - 08:53pm PT
So you're still around, Tom? How 'bout a wall this fall?

Chongo's book is great and well worth the hundred bucks. You can get it www.chongonation.com. Please mention my name when you order it.

You can also find lots of links at my [url="http://www.rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/forum/gforum.cgi?post=241166"]Index to Dr. Piton Stuff,[/url] which has some of the best stuff on soloing you can find anywhere.

Or just email me with specific questions, I'm pretty fast at the typing.
Crimpergirl

Social climber
St. Looney
Jul 22, 2007 - 09:05pm PT
Gotcha Tom. :)

My own confusion stemmed from something else though. In some parts, "lick" is a synonym for "any". For example:

"I never done a lick of work in my life"
"You'll never git a lick of sense out of that boy"
"Dayum! I aint' got a lick of money (or acid) in my pocket!"

That is where I was confused with the title suggesting that the OP had never "done a lick of acid."

This has been your back-woods-talk public service announcement. I now return you to your regularly scheduled program...

:)
Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Jul 23, 2007 - 09:46pm PT
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