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Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 14, 2007 - 10:21am PT
So I've been hassling with mystery software quirks on and off for a week, but I got the first scans out this morning. Not great photography but images I haven't seen in a while, climbs so long ago I can barely recall.

Did you use 'em all up in the old-school thread, or do others out there have more scans from their early years?

A first ascent at Gibralter Rock trying out brand-new RURPs, 1968.




Andy Embick starts a winter ascent at Tahquitz, 1969. Rest in peace, Andy.




Serenity Crack in a less pin-scarred state (but we're not helping), 1969.




A much younger Chiloe heading towards Boot Flake on the morning of our 3rd day, 1971.


Carolyn C

Trad climber
CA
Apr 14, 2007 - 10:48am PT
Nice old photos..back in the day! love the knickers and knicker socks on Andy. I still have my old knickers and except for the embarrassment factor would like to wear them climbing...they were really comfortable.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Apr 14, 2007 - 11:04am PT
Same bolt ladder on the Nose,
A good while later, while I was guiding it for YMS in '87:




The Summit of Mt Adams, WA, May/June of '76, with the Mt Adams Wilderness Institute.
I was 15 and this time I was being guided.
More knickers, obscured by gaiters:

Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Apr 14, 2007 - 11:11am PT
Chiloe,
Where is Andy's ice ax and which route is that at Taquitz?
I did my first lead there on The Trough.
I'm guessing that might be the route.
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 14, 2007 - 11:19am PT
Andy has no ice axe, you can see a CMI piton hammer trailing below him. He's offwidthing in mountain boots up the snow-filled crack with no pro. Andy was tough even back in college. The route is White Maiden's Walkaway, not sure whether this is the normal first pitch.

Cool thing about Boot Flake when we did it is you got to use that expando-flake piton technique where you set the next pin by hand, clip your daisy to it, then haul off and hit it once with your hammer so hard and true that, in theory, if the pin you're standing on pops out, the one-hit piton above will save you. Made sense at the time.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Apr 14, 2007 - 11:28am PT
Carolyn C

Trad climber
CA
Apr 14, 2007 - 11:35am PT
greeeeaat photo Tarbuster! wow..looks scary.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Apr 14, 2007 - 11:40am PT
Raydog

Trad climber
Boulder
Apr 14, 2007 - 12:09pm PT
killer guys,

thanks for the post!
Carolyn C

Trad climber
CA
Apr 14, 2007 - 12:51pm PT
I'm doing the scanner/posting photos for the first time, too. If I screwed it up I'll delete it right away.

Here's me in knickers, knicker socks are covered up by gaitors. Sunrise - a rest stop on the north glacier route of Mt. Athabasca, August 1977


and here's me leaving the summit of Athabasca, same day - very cold and windy up there...this is my "michelin man" photo




Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 14, 2007 - 01:18pm PT
Tarbuster -- I had one of those CMI hammers, they lasted well. I liked the balance on my wood-handled Chouinard hammer better, though. On our jaunt up the Nose, Joe and I both cracked our hammers, then covered the handles with tape and said nothing so as not to worry the other guy.

I think you pounded in and out something like 500 pitons on that route.


Carolyn -- Welcome to the party! Looks like a good day on Athabasca.


Crowley -- The Epson I've got seems easy to use so far, but its software disagrees with my desktop computer. No clue as to why, yet, so I hooked up the laptop to get those scans.
Raydog

Trad climber
Boulder
Apr 14, 2007 - 01:19pm PT
nice Carolyn C
Carolyn C

Trad climber
CA
Apr 14, 2007 - 01:41pm PT
Hey, thanks guys. It seems the editing stuff in photobucket is pretty limited, and my old photos are fading. I guess I really need something like photoshop for editing, but it's so expensive. I'm not very savvy with this stuff.
And a lot of my old photos are slides...I think there are slide scanners, aren't there?

Yeah, Chiloe, that WAS a nice day on Athabasca, besides being really cold on the summit (as you would expect.) Spent several summer trips up there hanging out and getting fat in camp while it rained or snowed almost the whole time.
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 14, 2007 - 03:12pm PT
And a lot of my old photos are slides...I think there are slide scanners, aren't there?

Funny thing I learned, ordering this one. The market for slide scanners apparently peaked a few years back; there's less demand now because everyone's shooting digital. One consequence is that the scanner I really wanted, a Canon 9950f, has been discontinued and fetches high prices on eBay. So I got an Epson instead, too early to say whether I love it.
Carolyn C

Trad climber
CA
Apr 14, 2007 - 03:37pm PT
That's good to know - guess I better move on it soon.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Apr 14, 2007 - 06:02pm PT
'Just got back from a long walk in the woods.

The CMI hammer:
Chiloe, as you know Sibley, I'd guess you'd also know Bill Roos, who gave me that CMI hammer. That picture of it; well, I just laid it straight on the Dell flatbed scanner this morning after you mentioned Embick's CMI (that's why the butt of the hammer is clipped).

I had a Chouinard wall hammer, very nice, did a few nail ups with it and lot's of hand drilled bolts on lead, don't have that any longer.

The Dell Flatbed I use was $130 and it's a workhorse.

That picture of Boot Flake is a slide. I have a Primefilm slide scanner, I think it was $299; it is also very simple to operate.

I just this winter migrated to digital, but I still shoot film, because, um, I like analogue stuff. Still listen to vinyl on a turntable as well.
Raydog

Trad climber
Boulder
Apr 14, 2007 - 09:49pm PT
hey Carolyn C:
RE:
"I guess I really need something like photoshop for editing, but it's so expensive"

check it out:

http://www.gimp.org/screenshots/

think there's good support/online instro too.
murcy

climber
San Fran Cisco
Apr 15, 2007 - 09:53am PT
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Comparison_of_raster_graphics_editors
Carolyn C

Trad climber
CA
Apr 15, 2007 - 11:05am PT
Thanks Ray. Good stuff on the GIMP site. BTW, the second climbing harness I owned was a FROG. I got it after having a Forest swami belt and leg loops! I loved your harness, and used it for years!

Thanks murcy for that wiki reference; now that I'm finally jumping in to learn this stuff, it will really help me to read up.
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 15, 2007 - 11:20am PT
Tarbuster:
The CMI hammer:
Chiloe, as you know Sibley, I'd guess you'd also know Bill Roos, who gave me that CMI hammer. That picture of it; well, I just laid it straight on the Dell flatbed scanner this morning after you mentioned Embick's CMI (that's why the butt of the hammer is clipped).


Now, here’s a cool thing about Supertopo or these digital times. After Tar mentioned that his photo was of Bill Roos’ old hammer, I went digging through some dusty old slides. And unearthed photos of a day 36 years ago when that same hammer got put to good use. Spring 1971, Kor’s Red Dihedral up on Mickey Mouse Wall. The route was rated A4 at the time, we knew of no other repeats, and the Eldo walls were taller in those days, so in our hearts we was climbin’ hard.


Bill Roos on P2. See the hammer?




Roos heads into the nailing on P3, the red dihedral itself:






We’d planned it so I got P4.

Raydog

Trad climber
Boulder
Apr 15, 2007 - 11:20am PT
that's really neat Carolyn C.

Along with GIMP there is Photoshop Elements, it often comes bundled with a Canon scanner or Wacom tablet, but is normally about $99. I believe it would be ideal for your use - quite powerful. If you are ever at Borders, take a look for Deke McClellands book on it - he be du man.

I got some scans and stuff I'm gonna post coming up here - camera battery charging...
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Apr 15, 2007 - 11:36am PT
Ha!
Now this is getting fun.
Billy Roos is such a great guy.

I must have sold my Chouinard wall hammer in desperate times darnit; so in the late 80's I drilled a bunch of bolts, new routes and anchor replacements throughout Tuolumne, Yosemite, & JT with an old Forest ice hammer who's pick had long snapped off, so when Billy saw what I'd been using he gave me the CMI.

My copy of Chelton & Godfrey's "Climb!" also came from Roos; why he cut that loose, jeez.

So Chiloe, back to "Internet Show & Tell":
Here be John Ruger's Chouinards, say, what can you do with these?

Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 15, 2007 - 12:09pm PT
Hah! Don't think I have any of Ruger, although his Eldo years overlapped with mine. Didn't he go off to biathalon?

However, in that spirit, here's a never-before-seen shot of Sibley, wearing Voyager klettershoes I think, leading Out to Lunge in 1970. Look closely for the Colorado Nut Company I-beam on his rack.




And a couple more of Bill Roos, on Green Slab Direct that same year. Photo quality is way short of publishable -- on this camera I had to guess distance and exposure, so almost everything was 30ft, 1/100 at f16 -- but the Kodachrome colors have sure held up well. There's that hammer again.




Raydog

Trad climber
Boulder
Apr 15, 2007 - 12:21pm PT
a lot of the Colorado guys liked wearing plaid shirts...I've noticed this repeatedly over the years.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Apr 15, 2007 - 12:44pm PT
Yes,
Fun stuff, plaid shirts 'n all and yes, good fresh color still.

I tinkered with that Sibley shot and I don't know what those are that Sibley is edging about in on Out to Lunge:




Hey, Chiloe,
Someone told me these Krony copies, by Voyager (Vasque), were called Diretissima, no?
(These boots are actually mine, 'bought them new just last year):



Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Apr 15, 2007 - 12:59pm PT
And Yes, Ruger got into Bi-Athalon, apparently following a tragedy which he witnessed on the Diamond and now does some sort of Olympic related organization. He still lives in Boulder and I ran into him recently at Sibley's wedding.

I've got this drawing which I inherited from the late Randi Eyre; I don't think it is her work, but some say they think it is depicts Ruger, I'm not so sure, but I like it:

Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Apr 15, 2007 - 01:07pm PT
Oh Yah,
Almost forgot, the Sibley/Roos Colorado Nut Biz:

There's the I Beam, next to what might be a Peck Cracker?
(some knurled round extruded thing good for pin scars and little else)



Sibley still had scads of that I Beam schwag, as well as some extruded hex shaped stock knockin' about when I lived at his place.

Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Apr 15, 2007 - 01:31pm PT
This is one of the few pictures which I haven't posted,
Myself on the left & Eric Erickson on the right, Provo Canyon Ice, 1980 (scan of a Polaroid):



It was a bit warm; we were there with Nick Badyrka.

Eric had sold me his Snowdon Mouldings "Curver" ax, a btutally dropped pick item with an orange fiberglass shaft sporting a bulge at the bottom just above the Ferrule. We dubbed it the "Plate Maker", for it's removal issues.
Raydog

Trad climber
Boulder
Apr 15, 2007 - 02:10pm PT
really nice Tar, those Kronhofer copies are sexy sexy sexy - why does it make we think of Clint Eastwood and the Eiger Sanction or something? Late sixties Early seventies. I had an early pair of Pivetta Muir trails, a bit beefier but with a pretty thin-lugged sole and very closely trimmed and hell yes they climbed well.

Remember Pivetta?
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 15, 2007 - 02:29pm PT
All those klettershoe types have run together in my mind. I'm not certain what Sibley was wearing either, thought they were a Voyager/Vasque RR-alternative. I had a pair of real Kronhofers at the time that were my "easy soloing" shoes, they didn't edge but felt great running up the Flatirons or Calypso. Before RRs, there was another gray shoe called the Spider, Royal hisself wore them and said they were good -- that was enough for me. Spiders were stiffer than Kronhofers, and I could see how they prefigured Royal's design for RRs.
rmuir

Social climber
the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
Apr 15, 2007 - 03:18pm PT
Oh man, this is becoming a major thread drift here...

Pivetta. That brand was originally imported by Donner Mountain Company (DMC), I think. (A spinoff company of the founder of Ski Hut, in Berkeley. See more in the other thread nearby.) Those Muir Trails never seemed to climb as well as Kronhoffers--according to the oldsters hanging-out at Indian Rock back then. Got me started, though. As I recall, the MTs had an additional leather rand around the toe that meant that the toe-cap never stretched as much as the Kronnies, so you never got that tight, kid-glove feel of a well-broken in pair of Kronnies. But, then again, you didn't wear through them quite as quickly... I remember Royal with a pair of Spiders.

Weren't Kronhoffers originally imported by Holubar?

Kamps famously wore Cortinas. Weren't they a Pivetta brand? And wasn't the "Spider" back then also made by Pivetta? ...long before Boreal came out with their model? It's all so confusing!

I remember what a splash the Galibier PAs and RDs made to the Berkeley bouldering scene back then... Got my first pair of RRs in 1969, brought 'em down in 1970 when I came to SoCal. Did my first route at Suicide (Serpentine) in 'em. And what was the name of those black Galibiers that were even STIFFER that the RRs? Calcaires?

And, hey, while all those ancient braincells are all mis-firing... Wasn't there an old shoe called "Gollies"? [And, no, Google's not too helpful on this one.]
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Apr 15, 2007 - 04:42pm PT
Ya,
Ahem,
I was gonnah say Roos might have been in Spiders or Cortinas there up thread, but upon further inspection, it sure looks like blue meanies:





Here's my current set, the 3rd set I've burned through in the last 15 years in the high peaks, these were um, ya, once belonged to Sibley:




Here's Billy Roos & Paul Sibley about 10 years ago:



The Pivetta that was grey was the Muir Trail; they climbed no where near as good as those Krony copies I have, but they were really well crafted, hiked nice and stood in aiders pretty good.

The Cortina or Spider might have been made by Fabiano?
Fabiano did do a sort of Muir Trail thing with an extra leather rand and we still had some of those at YMS up into 80's

Hey, what are you guys doin' inside on a Sunday anyhow, when it's so nice outside?
-How 'bout someone post up an old picture?
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 15, 2007 - 05:45pm PT
Hey, what are you guys doin' inside on a Sunday anyhow, when it's so nice outside?

Not so nice up this way, we got us yetanother Nor'easter. Been fun playin' with the scanner, though.
Raydog

Trad climber
Boulder
Apr 15, 2007 - 05:52pm PT
baby Pivettas, the "Muir trail"

was just a neat hiking boot that scrambled well, not a real Klettershoe -

I recall doing trailside boulders a fair bit in them during my two summers in Sequoia but, of course I also carried EB's.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Apr 15, 2007 - 06:21pm PT
Chiloe,
Yes the Nor-Easter.
My wife is in Boston to do the Marathon.
We'll see how it goes, she says massive water accumulation in the streets right now.
Raydog

Trad climber
Boulder
Apr 15, 2007 - 06:28pm PT
new scanner (sorta new, does slides, 35 and 120mm negs)


Old Climbs (climbing places and old friends)

Ann Pond with Mother Grundy peak in the background. Ann helped me with Frog during the peak years of the mid 80's.

Say hello to my (new) little friend

Canon Elura mini DV
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 16, 2007 - 05:15am PT
Chiloe,
Yes the Nor-Easter.
My wife is in Boston to do the Marathon.
We'll see how it goes, she says massive water accumulation in the streets right now.


I wish her and all the other runners good running. It's one of those mornings lesser folk will all hide indoors! They say it might ease off by midday, though.
scuffy b

climber
The town that Nature forgot to hate
Apr 16, 2007 - 01:22pm PT
Some shoe clarification:
The afore-mentioned Pivetta with the toe cap was the Cortina.
It was unlined. Kamps climbed in these for eons. They were wider
than Kronies. The Muir trail was lined and padded, more for hiking, without the toe cap.
Then Pivetta came out with the Spider. Same dark grey, narrower,
extra stiff, toe and heel cap.
Gollies (Gaulies?) were one of those hard-to-find Euro shoes that
didn't get imported, at least not by anybody competent. They were
the PA/EB style, all blue, leather, possibly the same as the Dolt
Blue Boot.
The stiff black Fabiano was the Black Beauty
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 16, 2007 - 02:22pm PT
Thanks for the shoe info, scuffy. I used to know some of that stuff.

Couple more scans from 1969. Andy Embick again, on Jensen's Jaunt at Tahquitz. His footwear might be Black Beauties.




Bob Lakin heads toward the Matron carrying a well-worn old Goldline.

Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 16, 2007 - 02:51pm PT
Glad ya like 'em. It's been fun going through the old slides. No masterpieces among them, far from it, but they tell a little about what it was like.


So Tar, how'd your wife do? On TV the runners looked to be coping well enough, no doubt with much extra effort.
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 16, 2007 - 03:00pm PT
Yeah, I'd forgotten how you couldn't climb without knickers. That was before we discovered that actually, white painter's pants were necessary to climb. Until it turned out that really, lycra tights were the only way to ascend. Then came Prana ...

One of my partners soloed an aid climb in Boulder Canyon, had a near-death experience in fact, and then his car broke down driving home at the end of the day. He had to get out and hitch-hike to Denver in his knickers, suddenly aware that nobody else on the planet was dressed like him -- shabby gray knickers with leather reinforcement on the butt. He told us later, "I felt like a baboon!"
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Apr 16, 2007 - 04:09pm PT
I like climbing in 501's.
They go better with my Stetson and always run tuff when it gets wide.

I knew Scuffy B that you would come through on the boot lineage; Now I'm sure it was you that set me straight on my Diretissimas.
...Yes, from back when climbing footwear was referred to as a boot, not a shoe.
We even called EB's boots.

Man I want a pair of those Black Beauties.

Keep 'em comin' Chiloe, your shots may not be ad grade but they are priceless and fun too.

And thanks for asking, Lisa ran a 2:59 at Boston, netting her not the PR she was hoping for (something under 2:50),
But she did take Second Place Masters!
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 16, 2007 - 06:36pm PT
And thanks for asking, Lisa ran a 2:59 at Boston, netting her not the PR she was hoping for (something under 2:50),
But she did take Second Place Masters!


Not a day for PRs, but 2nd place masters at one of the Big 5 must feel pretty fine! Congratulations to Lisa.
Hardly Visible

climber
Port Angeles
Apr 16, 2007 - 09:43pm PT
Carolyn C,
I just bought a scanner this winter and the ability to scan slides was important to me also. Anyway, wound up getting an HP 4050 and it has this nifty tray thingy that holds 16 slides a scan. Needless to say I'm liking it alot so far.
Carolyn C

Trad climber
CA
Apr 17, 2007 - 08:21am PT
Thanks Kevin Rose. I like the idea of that tray - we have a lot of slides to convert.

I'm also trying to figure out the best regular scanner to get to convert photos of my paintings to digital. Lots of good info on this thread.
Raydog

Trad climber
Boulder
Apr 17, 2007 - 08:44am PT
Carolyn C,

there's places with giganto scanners that can digitize your art - a poster shop here in Boulder does it - easy to find it online.

for scanners:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&N=2010270044+50001213&name=CANON+USA+Inc

IMO it's useful to always consult the newegg database

happy digitizing!
Carolyn C

Trad climber
CA
Apr 17, 2007 - 10:15am PT
Thanks Raydog. I've got photos of work I did when I was trying to "paint for dollars" that I'm going to try to digitize, and all of your info has been a lot of help. :)

Here's an old photo (I actually previously posted this for about 2 minutes before realizing I mislabeled the location - oops). This is my partner, Eric, somewhere on the So. Face of the Column, which we did in Nov. 1977 or 78 (can't remember which year - pathetic). Nice knickers, and he had those really pretty royal blue shoes (I thought they were pretty - teehee), but I can't remember what brand of shoe they were. We nailed the route; kind of embarrassing to think of now. I think we were holding up a party behind us who were trying to do it "all nut." I pounded all those pins with great joy, though. The other party backed off, telling us it was "too hard" for them. Oh well, that was then...

Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Apr 17, 2007 - 12:42pm PT
All Righty then Carolyn C!
Let it flow and don't stop till you've posted up all the fun memories.
(that's what sucked me in good anyhow)
Raydog

Trad climber
Boulder
Apr 17, 2007 - 12:47pm PT
RE:
" and all of your info has been a lot of help. :)"

Carolyn C you are sure welcome and thanks for the neat photo post: that's the easy pendulum pitch before the straight-in thin crack.

here's a link to the place in Boulder that does the mega-size scans
http://www.rare-maps.com/visit_us_boulder.cfm
Carolyn C

Trad climber
CA
Apr 17, 2007 - 02:32pm PT
Yeah, this ST thing is strangely addictive! I remember I lead the next pitch of the route, the straight-up A1 crack..pounding angles. Some friends were watching through a scope and later said "boy, were you slow!!" hmmmph.
Raydog

Trad climber
Boulder
Apr 18, 2007 - 01:16am PT
clear motivation from the famous Tarbuster CMI hammer post

my modified crag hammer - still ok for gardening, trimmed down a bit for reduced weight/bulk: fixed pin maintenance while free climbing, etc.

it's been a few places...
rgold

Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
Apr 18, 2007 - 09:59am PT
Not from the knicker days (I have lots of those too), but one from the early 70's of me on the Yellow Wall. Swami belt, early 70's nuts (I don't see any wired ones), and (sigh) the buffitude of youth...

Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Apr 18, 2007 - 01:15pm PT
Nice RG,
Looks like you were savvy enough to lace up some EB's instead of those clogs some of us have been pining over:

Off White

climber
Tenino, WA
Apr 18, 2007 - 01:39pm PT
Here's a little something to go with your old hammer:





Speaking of boots, I had a pair of black ones way back when, I thought they were Calcaires? Bought them used from A Striving After Wind, an early proto climbing shop in San Diego, and they ably served as the bridge between my Lowa Scouts and my first pair of EBs.
Raydog

Trad climber
Boulder
Apr 18, 2007 - 01:44pm PT
Doug I need that drill for my next tent anchor thread...that's the ULTIMATE
Off White

climber
Tenino, WA
Apr 18, 2007 - 01:48pm PT
Hah, I only wish I had a pic of BVB in action, drilling on the lead with that rig and a 12oz ball peen hammer. He hit his hand soooo many times I bet he still has a lump there.
Raydog

Trad climber
Boulder
Apr 18, 2007 - 04:09pm PT
that's a neat pic of the belay - the vintage elements (in my mind) make it
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Apr 18, 2007 - 05:30pm PT
very crisp too,
that off white is pretty handy with the 'ole b&w.
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 18, 2007 - 05:44pm PT
That is an artsy anchors shot.

Nothing artsy here, just Ron Cox in his cutting-edge RDs, 1972. Sibley was belaying this I think.

Off White

climber
Tenino, WA
Apr 20, 2007 - 07:02pm PT
Back in the day, "choking the chicken" really meant something.


Canadian Rockies, 1979
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 15, 2007 - 02:53pm PT
A new old scan for Tarbuster and Cowpoke: Fantasia at the Voo, 1974. It's a bad photo, the crack's eating my head and I'm cleaning on rappel (my sweetie having been too smart to second) -- but, swami belt, EBs, and who recognizes that vintage pro?




Jaybro

Social climber
The West
Dec 15, 2007 - 03:46pm PT
Nice Fantasia photos, Chiloe, you did it when it 'was' 5.10! I didn't climb it till spring '77 (onsight) but I had the advantage of cutting edge gear; tube chalks, and green nards, like Roy showed, up thread. I soloed it, most recently, about three years ago, and breathing still seems to be the crux!
Euroford

Trad climber
chicago
Dec 15, 2007 - 04:06pm PT
lovin this thread!

Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Dec 15, 2007 - 10:06pm PT
Vintage pro?
Gotta be a Colorado Nut I Beam, cuz all the Forest Titons were anodized.

Lovin' that photo of Ron Cox too (end of last page), prolly on Hair City, West Butt, or somethin', but I can't place it for sure. You captured his handwork real nice.
Russ Walling

Social climber
Out on the sand.... man.....
Dec 15, 2007 - 10:16pm PT
by anodized do you mean "colored"? I did a google image search for Forest Titons and you should see what I got.... scary stuff.

I have 6.5" Titon over here that is just plain aluminum... at least silver... Forest called it a #5. Nice unit.
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 16, 2007 - 05:50am PT
Lovin' that photo of Ron Cox too (end of last page), prolly on Hair City, West Butt, or somethin', but I can't place it for sure. You captured his handwork real nice.

Direct start to the W Buttress, I think. Sibley is belaying off-camera. Later that evening I took a stupid fall, hurt my knee, and couldn't climb again for months.
cowpoke

climber
Dec 16, 2007 - 05:51am PT
thanks, Chiloe! fun climb -- had a good laugh over your second not seconding!
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 16, 2007 - 05:51am PT
Vintage pro?
Gotta be a Colorado Nut I Beam, cuz all the Forest Titons were anodized.


Knew I could count on Tarbuster. That's a Sibley & Roos Colorado NutCo I-beam, all right. With just those and a couple of wobbly tube chocks, leading Fantasia felt a little bit nervy.

Here's another photo, nearing the top. Rope and gear all set deep in the crack. I sure was young.



Fantasia was my first climb in the Voo. It looked so cool, sitting up on that hill.

cowpoke

climber
Dec 16, 2007 - 06:19am PT
fabulous shot of your sweetie surveying the land, beaver ponds and all...remarkable for the lack of wind.
T2

climber
Cardiff by the sea
Dec 16, 2007 - 07:44am PT
Fabulous thread I can't believe I missed it the first time around. Keep the vintage stuff comming all you old guys hehe!
SteveW

Trad climber
Denver, CO
Dec 16, 2007 - 08:56am PT
Chiloe, Raydog, and any others--tell me your experience with
your slide scanners--how much, quality of the images, etc.
I've got boxes of old slides from the 70's & 80's and can't afford the Slideprinter in town--they do great work, but $$$
Thanks!!!!!
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
Dec 16, 2007 - 09:06am PT
hey there chiloe... say this is GREAT STUFFFFF!!! i have to get off line now, but i'm COMING BACK... THANKS for these shares...

say, the only rock i ever enjoyed were the large granite ones all around yosemite... but me and mark/chappy, and matt, and all the rest--we DID scramble over breakwall rocks at santa cruz--course you got watch out for wave-dangers ...

love these rocks,etc... chiloe.. thanks..
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Dec 16, 2007 - 09:12am PT
Mine is a Primefilm 3610AFL, the slides feed straight in through the front and it will scan negatives too.
I just wish it had a car wash feature, too remove all the dirt from my slides, but hey...
$300.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Dec 16, 2007 - 09:22am PT
Little thread drift here:

Hey there Neebee....for me, an Russ Walling may agree, one of the better Chapman posessions was Howard's early 70's vintage convertible Corvette Stingray.

Great big long block motor, requisite faded brown paint job with primer accents and those muscular man-sized side pipes running proud right under the rocker panels.

When he pulled that beast into Camp 4 lot, we swooned and felt the call of pure American muscle. Behind the wheel of that glorious thumper, Howard Chapman knew he was king!
prunes

climber
Dec 16, 2007 - 09:48am PT
I just bought a pair of EB,s never used in my size on ebay. It should be interesting to see how much better I climb. I used to also climb in PAs,RD,s and BBs. Has anyone heard of BBs?
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Dec 16, 2007 - 09:53am PT
BB's: blue w/red trim.
Kamp's edged about on the sandstone boulders of Stony Point in those during the mid/late 70's.
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 16, 2007 - 09:55am PT
Chiloe, Raydog, and any others--tell me your experience with
your slide scanners--how much, quality of the images, etc.


I'm running an Epson 4990, literally running it right now 'cause we've got a Nor'easter howling and not even the dog wants to go out, so what better to do.

The scanner seems to work well for me. I got it whenever this thread started, Amazon or somesuch will give you the latest prices (and whatever models are newer). It scans 8 slides at a time, but also scans prints of any size, negatives, books etc. Like Tarbuster I wish it had that carwash feature for dirty old slides. I've tried brushing and blowing on the slides with poor results, now I clean up the skies mostly with PhotoShop.

Haven't tried other scanners so I can't give you comparisons. At the time I bought this, I did read a lot of reviews and it seemed like the best choice for me.

More scanning results of this snow day coming soon to a SuperTopo near you.
Prod

Social climber
Charlevoix, MI
Dec 16, 2007 - 10:11am PT
Chiloe,

I know I'm late on this, but I just saw the post... Anyway I lived at Sibleys place about 16 years ago. There were buckets of Co nuts out behind the shop. Most likely still there.

Did you ever fall on that stuff?

Prod.
bob d'antonio

Trad climber
Taos, NM
Dec 16, 2007 - 10:20am PT
I have a Epson V 750 pro which seems to work very well. Larry...nice tread you got going here.
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 16, 2007 - 11:00am PT
Did you ever fall on that stuff?

You mean the I-beams? Probably fell on the narrowest one, 1.75", several times. I liked it the best, one size larger than the largest Colorado Nut Co hex.

The 3" and 4" I-beams were the best things we had for cracks in that size range, but it took a special crack to make one look secure. Chouinard tube chocks were easier to set, but they'd often have just a thin bit of metal touching -- I never thought those would hold much, unless the crack really choked down.
philo

Trad climber
boulder, co.
Dec 16, 2007 - 11:02am PT
I just happily stumbled into this thread. This is the kind of "stuff" that makes SuperTopo such a wonderful outlet and repository. Fire up those scanners and keep it coming.

And, Tarbuster that Mt. Adams shot blew my socks off! Somewhere midst the detirus of too much accumulation I have a nearly exact shot. Of me, with the Mt. Adams Wilderness Institute in 1974, on the summit replete with wool knickers, gaiters, Neopreen crampon straps, Dachsteins, 60/40 parka and the requiste 70cm glacier axe. Mine had a little homemade flag tied to it for the summit shot. After a few decades of crossing paths you'd think we would have bumbed into each other.
I'll have to meet you someday. Too bad you snuggled your way out of Crimpstars SoSun soiree.

Prod

Social climber
Charlevoix, MI
Dec 16, 2007 - 11:05am PT
My point exactely. I had a bunch of Co Nits to tie boats up in the Grand when I guided down there. I never got fast at placing them, and never thought about climbing with them.

Great pics and history, thanks for digging stuff like this up. It is appriciated, and valuable to this form.

Prod.
Jaybro

Social climber
The West
Dec 16, 2007 - 11:23am PT


But I never fell on the alien...
Prod

Social climber
Charlevoix, MI
Dec 16, 2007 - 11:25am PT
Yo Jaybro,

Is that a crack m up? How do you place those?

Prod.

By the way it was nice to get to meet you at IC Sushifest.
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 16, 2007 - 11:30am PT
Camping in the Voo, 1974 style: '67 Camaro and a tube tent.

Russ Walling

Social climber
Out on the sand.... man.....
Dec 16, 2007 - 11:31am PT
sweet chiloe!
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 16, 2007 - 11:39am PT
John Bragg climbing boldly on Robknob Spire, 1974.

cowpoke

climber
Dec 16, 2007 - 12:42pm PT
67 Camero?!!!? now you're just rubbing it in. love it!

edit: just realized how "bold," wow.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Dec 16, 2007 - 12:51pm PT
Nice to see this thread revived Chiloe!
(...beats the bird cage liner so often on the front page of late)

Philo,
Got lightweight metal edged 3 pin touring gear?
That’s what I do most of the winter, tour past Brainard & up other Front Range drainages.
If you are so equipped we should get out.

Russ,
You may have missed these late 70’s slides from the Moon-Fuzz collection:

Walling, pulling the UFO at Stony:




The Fuzz, rippin’ it on Clean & Jerk:




The Driver, wall racking & employing the proven Boxer clipboard method,
While the lovely Deb Kiefer looks on with Coors in hand:

Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Dec 16, 2007 - 01:01pm PT
Chiloe liked those Vertical boots,
Here's some 80's action at Josh in 'em & all swami'd up too:
(also from the Moon Fuzz collection)



Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 16, 2007 - 02:32pm PT
67 Camero?!!!? now you're just rubbing it in. love it!

Loved that car, drove it 100k around the west then brought it back east. It smelled just like my dog, who always rode with us.

The Camaro romance finally ended sometime in the 80s when Leslie, to emphasize her point that it had become a bit rusty, kicked a hole through the sheet metal. I saw she was right. It was time to sell, and rust bucket or not I got back twice what I paid for it. My later cars had no charisma, though.

SteveW

Trad climber
Denver, CO
Dec 16, 2007 - 03:06pm PT
Hey
Thanks for everyone's info on scanners--if anyone else has experience with them I'd appreciate hearing from them.
SW
Jaybro

Social climber
The West
Dec 16, 2007 - 03:38pm PT
Nice stuff Chiloe!

"Not a millionare,
not doin' bad,
When I sell the camaro,
I will be glad!"
-Dee Dee Ramone

"Bitchin' Camaro,
I ran over my neighbor,"
the dead Milkmen.

We used to ride up to Vedauwoo in Bill's '66 'cuda. Those were the days, wonder if there are photos?

I was more apt to be in a rig like the one over my shoulder, back in them days.





Prod, to use a crack 'n' up, you hang them in a group, and they make a pleasant jangling chime, as the wind blows. It was good to meet you 'guys' too! Though it reminds me I have to call the dentist.
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 16, 2007 - 03:50pm PT
We used to ride up to Vedauwoo in Bill's '66 'cuda. Those were the days, wonder if there are photos?

My friend Moses Little Dog raised dust across Pine Ridge and the badlands in his 'cuda, I remember those days fondly. Might have some pictures somewhere.
cowpoke

climber
Dec 16, 2007 - 03:59pm PT
kinda blows my mind to look up at the Nautilus (in Chiloe's second Camero shot) and consider the classics that hadn't been climbed yet (e.g., Flying Buttress)...or were getting climbed for the first time that year (e.g., Lower Progressive). by the time I was first there, they had all been climbed perhaps hundreds if not thousands of times. still a beautiful place, but I'm jealous thinking of how you guys had a totally different adventure.
Jaybro

Social climber
The West
Dec 16, 2007 - 04:36pm PT
I suspect it's still possible to get in on the under tenth ascent of October Light, and a few others...
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Dec 16, 2007 - 04:49pm PT
Yes, the Camaro shots are tres hip.
I'd kill for a 'Cuda or a Challenger,
Like the item from "Vanishing Point".
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 16, 2007 - 05:41pm PT
Like the item from "Vanishing Point".

There's a route out in Red Rock that was named after that movie. Seriously.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Dec 16, 2007 - 05:42pm PT
...and in Yos.
philo

Trad climber
boulder, co.
Dec 16, 2007 - 07:21pm PT
Chiloe Thanks for the great posts. I think the RR route is called Varnishing Point. A definite and clever play on the title of a great flick.

Tarbuster I used to ski a fair bit. All those years living in Gunnison we would ski in the long approaches to all that remote ice. Tom Pulaski and the gang were pretty extreme alpine tele skiers. I mostly used it as transportation. Still I miss those days. I haven't really skied since my 12th and final surgery replaced my knee 15 years ago. However I am feeling spunkier these days particularily since the thing has outperformed the expectations of the bone cutter. I have lately actually been contemplating lining up some new equipment and getting back out there. I will just have to see what happens. It's hard to justify the expense when you got three kids and an exchange student that expect to be fed and all. But I would love to nordic tour again.
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 17, 2007 - 04:04pm PT
I think the RR route is called Varnishing Point. A definite and clever play on the title of a great flick.

Joe Herbst, 1976:

Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 23, 2007 - 07:59am PT
Upthread I mentioned Moses' classic '65 cuda, with which we had some adventures. Here's a glimpse of the car with Charlette in '73.

Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 23, 2007 - 08:57am PT
But, to get back on topic ... here's a poor photo of a 1973 aid rack, including:

 first-generation symmetrical Chouinard hexentrics
 Colorado Nut Company #6 hex
 homemade small copperheads
 bongs with tie-off loops permanently attached
 hand-tied 7/16" hero loops
 Leeper Z-pitons
 and the usual assortment of rock-damaging iron

bobby hill

Trad climber
Thrill Hill, Texas
Dec 23, 2007 - 10:36am PT
Good God my man are you insane,
where's your helmet & nut tool,
why aren't you wearing a pack,
is that cotton your wearing,
did you actually have to drink water to get up that???
cowpoke

climber
Dec 23, 2007 - 11:29am PT
those cudas were sweet. I had a buddy who had one during the early 80's and loved it until the back window cracked -- you couldn't find that in any old junk yard.

the museum

Trad climber
Rapid City, SD
Dec 23, 2007 - 06:26pm PT
Stopping to either whiz or get a beer. Devils Tower in the background. 1974 Gran Prix. Pumpkin orange with hail dents as big as your fist.

opps- didn't link- try again..


Crimpergirl

Social climber
St. Looney
Dec 23, 2007 - 06:54pm PT
Great thread. I'd missed it before as well.
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 2, 2008 - 02:21pm PT
Palisade Glacier still reached down to Sam Mack Lake in 1968 when this photo was taken.

Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 13, 2008 - 07:27pm PT
Out near Fisher Towers, on the River Road before it got paved.

Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 13, 2008 - 07:45pm PT
Steve Wunsch on the Lizard, 1971.
For protection he placed slings over two mud flakes, leaving a piton on each sling to weight it down.

Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Jan 13, 2008 - 08:07pm PT
Awesome thread Chiloe! Keep em comin'.
WBraun

climber
Jan 13, 2008 - 08:12pm PT
Old climbs and old cars I like.

Much better than now-a-days with Toyota, toyota, toyota, and more fuking toyota.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Jan 13, 2008 - 08:51pm PT
Toyota4lyfe!


:)



pic apology for interrupting the thread...


Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 14, 2008 - 08:17am PT
pic apology for interrupting the thread...

Hey, Munge, this thread was made for interrupting. I love all the not-ready-for-magazines photos on this site, and hope a few other folks might have new scans of old climbs. Tiding us over 'til we get loads of shiny-new digitals on new climbs with the coming of spring. Another snowstorm's going on out my window today.
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 14, 2008 - 08:27am PT
Awesome thread Chiloe! Keep em comin'.

Thanks for the encouragement, Steve. I'd hate to get boring with these things.



And I know what they'd say if I posted this on RC.com:

Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 14, 2008 - 07:23pm PT
Old climbs and old cars I like.

Two for Werner ... the Camaro served us well.



WBraun

climber
Jan 14, 2008 - 09:57pm PT
Thanks Chiloe

That's a real American car, and not like those phony impersonating Toyota's.

Edit: I forgot to say; Wunch was a master climber.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Jan 14, 2008 - 11:32pm PT
heh




Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 15, 2008 - 09:21am PT
Munge -- mid-80s, I'd guess from the shoes?
handsome B

Gym climber
SL,UT
Jan 15, 2008 - 09:56am PT
keep it coming, these shots are awesome!
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 16, 2008 - 04:35am PT
A rare photo, maybe it's the only photo, of Steve Wunsch on jumars (1971).

PhilG

Trad climber
The Circuit, Tonasket WA
Jan 16, 2008 - 10:03am PT
Chileo:
What a cool picture (and totally cool thread).
Where was that photo taken?
I remember few climbers who climbed with such grace, determination, and control as Steve.
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 16, 2008 - 10:40am PT
Where was that photo taken?

Colorado National Monument. In May 1971, Steve and I drove from Boulder out to the Valley, and did a few climbs along the way. On our drive, I was looking forward to aid-climbing my first Yosemite wall (the Prow), imagining that that would be a big deal. Steve was looking towards the future, imagining which big walls would go free.

I've got a few more shots from that trip I'll try to locate and scan soon.
PhilG

Trad climber
The Circuit, Tonasket WA
Jan 16, 2008 - 10:58am PT
Thanks for the time and effort you put into this thread.
The feelings that the memories of those days invoke recharge my climbing "batteries" for the days ahead.
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 16, 2008 - 01:01pm PT
Earlier that same day, Steve in a more characteristic free-climbing pose.

Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 16, 2008 - 04:44pm PT
For Tarbuster (and Bill Roos if he's out there) ... another sighting of I-beams in action, or at least on the rack (1971).

Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Jan 16, 2008 - 08:41pm PT
Nice to see you pulling out more archival treasures Chiloe!
I don't know where Roos is on the cyberspace train right now.

Here's those pesky anodized Titons; although the cross section is partially similar to the Colorado Nut I Beam, there are some differences in design and functional intent. I think the I Beams were meant to be placed primarily or only endwise, without the added camming function of the Forrest product. (That camming application seemed spooky to me).

Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 17, 2008 - 05:59am PT
The I-beams weren't for camming, but I actually placed them more often narrow-ways instead of wide-ways.

That camming concept with Titons looked scary to me. I never used them, although I was a great fan of two other early-70s Forest inventions -- the copperhead (originally meant to be used as a nut, not hammered for aid) and the two sizes of Foxheads that Bill built around a copperhead core. The Foxheads were Moac-shaped: a small aluminum one, which I used just about everywhere, and a larger blue plastic thing that looked sketchy but I still placed here and there. That blue plastic Foxhead was for awhile the only pro I needed to lead the first pitch of the Bastille Crack.

Nowadays I'd prolly take 6 cams.

Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 17, 2008 - 06:11am PT
On that same 1971 trip, Steve and I made about the 9th ascent of this puppy. Reading the summit register, I noticed that all the previous parties had been famous. We were harbingers of the hordes to come.




Geno

Trad climber
Reston, VA
Jan 20, 2008 - 09:52am PT
Here are some scanned photos.

A photo Laura took of a guy doing Foops in 1973.

Gruenberg in his knickers:

Me in knickers.

BobbyD, Kevin Bein, and Elrod at Uberfall in early 80s. Todd Swain in the background.

Rob Robinson ripping it up at Steele Al in 1985

Mark Cole in the field above Steele in 1985.

BobbyD getting ready to climb at Rincon in 1986.

Steve Wunsch soloing on Breakneck Ridge in early 1990s.

Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 22, 2008 - 08:44am PT
Geno, just caught up with your Gunks post. Loved the photo of Steve Wunsch in the 90s, quite a change from the 70s but that's true for us all. Bob D as a stylin' youth too.

You got more to scan where these came from?
Cuckawalla

Trad climber
Grand Junction, CO
Jan 22, 2008 - 08:59am PT
Do you happen to remember the climbs or where in the CO. National monument they are.I cant seem to place those climbs anywhere.
thanks-Jesse
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 22, 2008 - 09:20am PT
Do you happen to remember the climbs or where in the CO. National monument they are.

Sure. The two photos of Steve in the Monument, at the top of this page, were both taken on an unsuccessful 1971 attempt to free Sentinel Spire. We rapped in from the rim, then jumared back out later in the day.

Drove on to Castle Valley that evening, where we climbed the Lizard (3rd photo this page). Over the next couple of days we made approximately the 9th ascent of Castleton, as well as another unsuccessful free attempt -- the original route on North Sixshooter. I've got a few slides from N Sixshooter that I might scan sometime too.
Geno

Trad climber
Reston, VA
Jan 23, 2008 - 05:15pm PT
Chiloe,

We have a storage box of old slides from 1975-1990. Mostly from the gunks and the South. We have to separate the wheat from the chaff....As you know, it's hard to drag out slides/photos and scan them.

We've been trying to get our friends fired up to scan their photos for next year's Gunks Gathering. I really apprecxiate your threads though. It's so great to see the old pics. Strange how the group, parking lot, car, summit photos are some of the best ones 20 years later.

Jaybro

Social climber
The West
Jan 23, 2008 - 05:19pm PT
What a treasure trove!
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 23, 2008 - 05:45pm PT
It's so great to see the old pics. Strange how the group, parking lot, car, summit photos are some of the best ones 20 years later.

If I could write a note to my younger self, it might say "Take lots more pictures! Write down as many stories as you can!"

Although the Maroon Bells thread was kind of an exception, most of the pics I took of mountains, cliffs etc. look less interesting now. It's the people who have changed, and whose pictures say the most about how things were. How life is.

Yeah, scan your photos when you can. This is a great place to bring them to daylight, out of the dark shoeboxes and notebooks we've all got where they've been fading for decades, and prolly would have passed on unseen.
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Jan 23, 2008 - 05:46pm PT
Hey Roger Breedlove, are you reading this? have you scanned your slides yet??
Geno

Trad climber
Reston, VA
Jan 23, 2008 - 06:11pm PT
Chiloe, Here's a shot of Andy Embick on High Exposure. I met him on an October day in 1980 in the Gunks. He was visiting out East. We climbed a bunch of stuff. I sent him this shot later and he gave me some 8X10s of Cochise's Strong Hold. He was a great guy and it's very sad he's gone.


Geno

Trad climber
Reston, VA
Jan 23, 2008 - 06:28pm PT
Okay, I got to put up another pic from the South. Here's Shannon Stegg and Greg Allen on the road above Jamestown, Al in 1984. We just finished FA of Apes of Wrath in a unusual snow storm. We were pretty happy to be out in it.


Geno

Trad climber
Reston, VA
Jan 23, 2008 - 06:41pm PT
So far Bobby D hasn't noticed the pictures above. Here is another from the late 70s. Laura tells me he is sitting with Gary Garrett and Nadine at the Good Earth in Boulder.


Also an after climbing shot of me, Bobby D's beautiful wife: Laurel, BobD, Mark Robinson, Jeremy and Adam (in front) in Colo Springs from 1986. The years go by.
bob d'antonio

Trad climber
Taos, NM
Jan 23, 2008 - 06:47pm PT
Great shots Geno...almost bought a tear to my eyes. Love you and Laura...looking forward to Gunks Two!

Larry...wonderful thread.

Geno...remember how Adam use to make the Billy Face??

I just found some old pictures of climbing in New Mexico in 1972...I'll try to scan some and post.


Amazing Grace...1979


The legend Bob Murray (on the right) and me...1984...the birth of bouldering and climbing in the San Luis Valley.



The late Eric Guokas

cowpoke

climber
Jan 24, 2008 - 06:02am PT
Bob -- love the Amazing Grace shot, both for the unique technique and also because I had just been thinking about this area at Garden of the Gods (I think that's AG at G of G, right?). In another thread, people were discussing Webster's influence in New Hampshire, reminding me of all the classics he put up right around where that picture was taken (including the route) like Over the Rainbow etc. Thanks!
artmusicsouth

climber
VA
Jan 24, 2008 - 10:04am PT
GENO,

Holy Cow man! Those pics from the South are the bomb! I learned to climb in the TAG area in the early '90's. That really brings back some memories for me.

I'd go to Steele before it was shut down (maybe even after) and even Jamestown. I LOVED Jamestown! Beat Sandrock in my book, but then came T-Wall (I am actually going there in a few weeks.) For some reason Jamestown held some kind of mystique for me. Not really sure why but I did some awesome routes there.

Once at Jamestown I was belaying a buddy up on a route far cliff-left (we called it Birthday Suit but I don't know if that name was legit.) I was anchored to this huge tree at the top and chilling out pretty well when I looked over to my left. About 10' from me was the largest copperhead I have ever seen, I mean it was the size of a rattler which in our parts means it was the size of my frikkin' leg! Scared the piss out of me!

Anotehr time I was at Steele with this ballet dancer named Sbieg from the Chezch Republic (he defected for his anti-communist views.) There was a tall wall to the left of Rat Crack (I think that was the name). We were TR'ing this wall and using some kind of mank rope that came from behind the Iron Curtain. I took a fall and was maybe 50' off the deck. As I fell the rope stretched all the way to the ground. I just about hit Sbieg in the head! I am freaking out about this rope and he just laughing his arse off at me as I take that flight down the wall.

You ought to start a new thread with these old Southern pics. I'll see if I can dig some of mine up. They aren't as classic as your though. Rob Robinson, Mark Cole, John Mosely, Shannon Stegg, Arno Ilgner were all guys I admired. They were it for us in the South and were quite a crew to look up to =D

By the way, how far is Reston from the Norfolk area? I am in Suffolk right by the Dismal Swamp where my driveway is the tallest thing around (excluding my homemade wall.) I don't get to climb much nowadays with job and family obligations and given I live 4 hours from anything.

Mark
hobo_dan

Social climber
Minnesota
Jan 24, 2008 - 10:26am PT
Thanks you guys. i'm loving this and thinking i may have to line up a scanner.
I grooved on the webbing sling weighted down with some pins.
So much the best

murf
artmusicsouth

climber
VA
Jan 24, 2008 - 05:37pm PT
Bump so Geno can see my post and request ;)

Mark
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Jan 24, 2008 - 06:08pm PT
More Goukas pictures please, Bob!
Geno

Trad climber
Reston, VA
Jan 25, 2008 - 03:40am PT
Mark, LOVED your post and I will respond soon with more Southern Sandstone related pics and commentary. Geno
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 28, 2008 - 07:45am PT
A few more, Steve Wunsch on North Sixshooter Peak (1971).





Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Jan 28, 2008 - 02:18pm PT
So those last shots are from what is now called something like the "Lightning Bolt's Analog" crack?

Then, there's that cool B&W pic of Pratt in the OW next door...
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 28, 2008 - 08:27pm PT
So those last shots are from what is now called something like the "Lightning Bolt's Analog" crack?

I'm not sure -- we were on the original route, which at the time had a grade of III 5.8 A2.
Steve led the 2nd and 3rd pitches free (as I recall the 2nd was 10-ish and protectable;
the 3rd was 5.9 offwidth with no pro at all) before we got stopped at the final bolt ladder.

In those days North Sixshooter had a 2-hour approach hike, and was a bit lonelier place.
Gooney

Trad climber
Longmont, CO
Jan 29, 2008 - 07:25am PT

As I recall from a 1980 ascent, the original route is on the same side, but to the left of Lightning Bolt Cracks. The chimneys and off-widths of the original route are Pratt's Crack on the other side of the tower.
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 29, 2008 - 07:48am PT
Gooney, that sounds right.
The unprotected offwidth I mentioned above could well be the analogue to Pratt's route. I've got a
slide somewhere of Steve leading that pitch, with blue sky showing through the tower below his feet.
Gooney

Trad climber
Longmont, CO
Jan 29, 2008 - 08:07am PT
While struggling up the original route, I saw Pratt's being climbed - through the crack. A couple of rattly tube chocks and a composed climber - Mugs Stump.
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 20, 2008 - 04:08am PT
This one's for Jello. Why?

Steve Larson on Dracula at Frankenstein Cliffs, 1978.

Jaybro

Social climber
The West
Feb 20, 2008 - 06:53am PT
Dueling hummingbirds?
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Feb 20, 2008 - 06:58am PT
Jeepers,
Those early birds really flexed...
The big bird felt mutch less flighty.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Feb 20, 2008 - 07:00am PT
...plus, the dude is wearin' that baclava.
Shoot, in them days, after topping out, while fumbling with your dachsunds, you could just eat your hat!
scuffy b

climber
Stump with a backrest
Feb 20, 2008 - 08:15am PT
I sure wish I still had one of them balaclavas.
TwistedCrank

climber
Ideeho
Feb 20, 2008 - 08:21am PT
Those balaclavas rawked! When I pulled it off the head and wore it around my neck I really scored with the ladies.

I bought 3 of them for maybe 5 bucks at an army surplus store - along with some bullet-proof wool pants.

Back in the Pliocene.
Jaybro

Social climber
The West
Feb 20, 2008 - 09:21am PT
Good as a kingsbury™ with baseball hat?
scuffy b

climber
Stump with a backrest
Feb 20, 2008 - 09:54am PT
The Real ones, St George, Scottish made (not the ones that look
like Ragg socks) were The Bomb once you removed the powder puff
from the top. The best thing for skiing in powder, crud or glop
if there were any falls involved.
Would fully kick ass on a Kingston Kingsbury with ball cap.
I'm serious. Anybody want to part with one of those dinosaurs?
Jaybro

Social climber
The West
Feb 20, 2008 - 09:57am PT
I actually do have a couple of Balaclavas, but now I'm jonsing a kingston Kingsbury™!
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 20, 2008 - 10:06am PT
A fine day for balaclavas: A stylish orange one and a purple one here modeled by 2/3 of the FA
team on Solar Slab, one cold day in January 1975. The other 1/3 of the team wore a green
one, I think.

Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 20, 2008 - 10:12am PT
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 22, 2008 - 03:09pm PT
Better balaclava shot, Tom Kaufman on the Solar Slab FA.


Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 29, 2008 - 07:03pm PT
Huntington Ravine on Mt Washington often provides the full winter experience.
Tom Gries climbing with borrowed gear in Damnation Gully, 1979.

Mike.

climber
Mar 1, 2008 - 10:23am PT
Great thread.
cowpoke

climber
Mar 3, 2008 - 06:14am PT
more please.

not an old climb, but a new scan of Chiloe chillin'
in an area from which he is sure to have a few more
slides worth scanning (and posting).
Zander

Trad climber
Berkeley
Mar 3, 2008 - 07:37am PT
Chiloe,
That Superslab looks good!
Z
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 3, 2008 - 10:48am PT
Chiloe,
That Superslab looks good!


Yeah, that one's not a candidate for my "Worst First" thread. It gets climbed now and then, so I hear.
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 4, 2008 - 09:48am PT
Not an old climb but definitely one of the climbers who climbed them ...
RR's Original Local (and Cowpoke) somewhere out west.

L

climber
Malibu, baby....in a Cheetah shirt
Mar 4, 2008 - 12:10pm PT
OK, OK, OK...so you're not working all that hard. Somehow I missed the continuation of this thread after the first hundred fifty. My bad.

Super Slab...niiiiiiiice!
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 4, 2008 - 01:19pm PT
Heh, actually, Solar Slab is the route in photos above. Super Slab in Eldo is a whole
'nother thing, I think Layton Kor named that beauty.
TrundleBum

Trad climber
Las Vegas
Mar 5, 2008 - 02:29pm PT
Bump for old shots off new scanners:


Solar Slab, Super Slab...
don't forget 'Sliding Board'
(approx 76' when I got my first friction RR's)

Sliding board


I remember climbing those Whitehorse slab routes thinking one day the training would pay off on a 'pilgrimage' to the Valley (over on the Apron anyway).

#####

The same friction RR's
What did you do on a hot, sweaty, drizzley day in North Conway in the late 70's ?
Hang dog your way up the bottom of the Beast 666 in the rain.



#####

John Mallory leading 'Diedre' on a humid summer day in 78



#####

I loved Chiloe's pic of Steve Larson, at the top of Dracula.
Good ole balaclavas and flexible tubed 'birds', hey is that the orange leg loop of a Whillans harness ? ;)

78 was a really good year for ice. The next pic sucks. It is a scan of a 110 instamatic shot. The image's merit is in showing how fat Pinnacle gulley was that early in the season.
(note the lack of snow in the ravine, photo was taken in mid/late Decenber as I recall)

Pinnacle in fat condition for such early season ('78)


Keep'm coming Chiloe ;)
cowpoke

climber
Mar 5, 2008 - 02:49pm PT
love those old cathedral pics, Trundlebum! thanks for sharing them!

Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Mar 5, 2008 - 02:50pm PT
Now we are getting somewhere...
Geno

Trad climber
Reston, VA
Mar 5, 2008 - 04:08pm PT
TrundleBum. Love those old shots. Really captures the gritty 70s. They show the strain, sweat and shake of folks climbing something at their limit. All of them are great.
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 5, 2008 - 04:18pm PT
Right on Trundlebum, this website needs more North Conway coolness. All the better if
the shots are old and fuzzy.

Coincidentally, Steve Larson and I climbed Pinnacle Gully in November 1978, finding
plenty of ice as in your photo. But right under the surface of the ice was a torrent of
water, which our tools would break into. Then you'd have this high-pressure drinking-
fountain of water blasting out, soaking us and our rope. The rope froze up stiff as
a cable. We had to climb with it anyway (hip belays only!) until we reached Alpine Gardens,
where the visibility was 10 feet and the wind almost knocked us over. No way the rope
would coil, we had to crack it to cram that frozen cable into a pack. Fortunately, Steve
knew where the descent was.
TrundleBum

Trad climber
Las Vegas
Mar 5, 2008 - 05:16pm PT
Ok you asked for it.. I have a few more.
I took very few pic's back then.
I can dredge up a few more without having to fly to Hawai'i to raid my storage there ;)

I wish I could snap my fingers and pour through Tom Callaghan's archives. He was a pretty active photog while climbing.

In the meantime... chiloe I know what you mean about Pinnacle under those conditions.

Does anyone remember Jim Tierney ?
I met him through Kurt Winkler. We used to do a fair amount of climbing in the ravine together.
One year for a month or so he care took the Harvard cabin. That was the 'shiznit' for me. I could leave "Joe Dodge's" with nothing but my tools and bivy gear and run up there for a three day stay.
One of the finest climbs I ever recall doing was Damnation with Tierney. He was all pumped up. He had done it a few days before so we went up and he lead the crux pitch which consisted of sinking a tool with the left hand while your right hand jammed between the ice and the right rock wall of the gully. It took about four of these moves while layback/stemming the bulge curtain and the right wall. A good 'Scottish' outing in those days.
It was Tierney that taught me, if you are descending (for the day) from the Alpine gardens and do not intend nor need to regain the base of the ravine, then it is way faster (later season with good neve' conditions) to glisade to the top of Raymond's cataract (a surprisingly easy down climb) and pop out onto the fire trail a little ways below the Harvard cabin.

BRB .. I'll go scan a few more of what I have.


Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 5, 2008 - 05:21pm PT
Good deal. I think Geno promised some more old photos too, where'd he go?
TrundleBum

Trad climber
Las Vegas
Mar 5, 2008 - 11:31pm PT
sorry got way laid.

Ok well of course crappy images need explainations so I will caption...

I started off bouldering on the rocks at the harbour.
One mid-July day a friend and I spent all day long hitch hiking from the North shore of Boston out to Crow hill.
It took all day to get there so we built a small fire, bivy'd in shirt sleeves, bouldered and hitched home the next day.
At the ripe age of 15 I was the older one by a year that was 76'.



But my buddy Bradley was way stronger:


Shortly after we broadened our horizons to encompass the 'Big crags' of New Hamshire.


This meant more hitch hiking
This picture was taken in the rain, on the way back from N.Conway. It is or rather was, just before rt#16 joined with rt#95 at the Portsmouth rotary headed south.



Bradley and I Made many trips to N.Conway.
We shared early horror shows. Our first ever climb at Cathedral was leading the mossey 'Fun House' in a drizzle with just a few hexes and a couple stoppers and no clue.

We explored small crags enroute to the better known ones.
Once while on our way to Acadia in Bar Harbour ME. we stopped for a day at 'Megundicook' ledge near Camden. Our line there would be a good candidate for 'the worst FA you've done' thread.



I kept climbing but Bradley sort of faded quickly after we started getting into multipitch climbs. That was unfortunate because he was the consumate athlete.

Neither here nor there (OT)...
(in light of seeing some horrendo bike-athon T-Gordon posted on another thread)

Years later (87') my buddy Bradley did Port Hueneme CA. to Rockland ME.
The back of the images I have read:
"Portland Me, Port Hueneme to Thomaston Me 4,004 miles, 46 days solo 10/18/87"





By the time I was 17 (yes I dropped out of high school to go climbing) I was living in the N.Conway area and climbing as much as possible. That year I had the ultimate living situation. A super cheap room in a farm house located right on rt#16 about 300 yards before you dip into Chocurua village, travelling north. I shared this good sized house with a climbing partner named Paul Mitmon. Back then we lamented living so far from the crags but enjoyed the privacy and economy of rent.



Paul Mitmon and I did a fair amount of climbing together. I had a 68' split windshield bus that was our transpo.



In the spring we went on what was my first trip to a non granite climbing area, the Gunks. We got to Trapps shortly before dark, just enough time to pack a bivy and get up onto the 'High exposure' ledge where we spent the first night. In the morning we awoke on the High-E ledge with the sunrise at our toes.



After we brewed a cup of Jo' and dropped our rucksacks into the trees below, Paul lead off, up, the money pitch of 'High-E"



The next fall I went Made my first trip to the Valley and at the end of the season got caught in the lens of fellow New Hampshire climber Paul Boisenault when we did the East buttress of Middle Cathedral shortly before leaving the Valley.



~~~~~~~



From the Valley, 'Base' and a couple of us drove back east via Joshua Tree



Back in New Hamshire the next season I climbed some with a guy originally from North Carolina, that I met previously in Yosemite. This really ratty picture is Bob Rotert climbing Chicken delight on the Barber wall.



Over the years I wound up teaching a little



And doing some bigger, longer routes in the Valley



But I wound up surfing and windsurfing and generally getting back to my sailing beginnings and moving off to Hawai'i for half a life time.

There lol
I tried to link the pic's I could scrounge for now,
with a tad bit of story line ;)
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 6, 2008 - 04:54am PT
with a tad bit of story line ;)

Now that was just great, especially the story line.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Mar 6, 2008 - 08:16am PT
Yes that was a good run!
BrassNuts

Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
Mar 7, 2008 - 08:42am PT
Supercrack, 1983...


Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 7, 2008 - 09:52am PT
With a triple rack of rigid-stem Friends, or were you still mixing in cammed hex nuts back then?
Geno

Trad climber
Reston, VA
Mar 8, 2008 - 04:50pm PT
TrundleBum: You are the Man for posting up that great picture show. Bravo!

Funny how in every climbers life time they run into climbers that others may have known. Climbers are wanderers. My good friend Rob Robinson used to tell me what a hard man Bob Rotert was. And there was Rotert in TB's show. I bet you enjoyed climbing with him. I was always impressed by the spirit and zest for climbing my buddies from down South have.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Mar 8, 2008 - 06:00pm PT
Bob Rotert lives out here in the Boulder/Denver area.
I ran into him in Eldorado not long ago and he is looking good.
He is one strong climber!
bob d'antonio

Trad climber
Taos, NM
Mar 8, 2008 - 06:29pm PT
Bobby is one tough guy...took a bullet to the heart area and lived to talk about it.

Him, Mark Sonnenfeld and I were at Turkey Rocks around 1982 and got caught in a bad thunder/lighting storm...hid under a small overhang close ro the ground and heard a bang above us...next thing we knew we were a few feet out from the rock and running towards the car.
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 22, 2008 - 03:15pm PT
Found and scanned another stack of ancient slides today.

Andy Embick on White Maiden's Walkaway, winter 1969.

Mike Bolte

Trad climber
Planet Earth
Nov 22, 2008 - 05:24pm PT
Bobby R was indeed a good and bold climber. When we started climbing in North Carolina in the 70's he was this legendary hard-as-nails-guy putting up bold, steep, scary routes. For a while, it was like they were part of another Universe, but eventually we started getting on some of the easier ones--old-school 5.9s and 10s. Climbing a Rotert route was a sign you were becoming a real climber.
Crimpergirl

Social climber
Boulder, Colorado!
Mar 31, 2009 - 09:43pm PT
Bobby R is STILL a good and bold climber!

As a matter of fact, we were just getting liquored up with him tonight hatching climbing plans for the next couple of weeks!
Mike Bolte

Trad climber
Planet Earth
Mar 31, 2009 - 09:57pm PT
OK Crimper - say "hi" for me! Highlight of my early climbing life was leading a Mr R. route called "Hang 'em High" on Table Rock. 5.9 (at the time).

Figured I was ready for the next one on the Mr R. ticklist -- "Open Book" in the Linville Gorge Ampitheatre. Major butt kicking ensued and it was not the climb that got kicked. Would have been my first 5.10. I noticed years later that the grade had been changed to 11b.
klk

Trad climber
cali
Mar 31, 2009 - 09:58pm PT
BobbyR = Rotert? Good guy, good climber.

Hehe.

Sold him a pair of tights. One of our most radical designs, the only pair we'd had enough material to make in that pattern. Computer aggro blox on a black background.. Ultra-delicate fabric with a remarkably loose weave.

At that point in time, it was close to an illegal transaction.

Corner of HVCG, all shadowy, and careful like. You know it's marginal if it's a marginal transaction in a marginal community of a marginal "sport" in a marginal area of rural SoCal.

Largo

Sport climber
Venice, Ca
Mar 31, 2009 - 10:12pm PT


On Teflon Direct (V5), Mt. Roubidoux, 1971
klk

Trad climber
cali
Mar 31, 2009 - 10:16pm PT
great pic!


slightly overexposed, but really cool for the age and the local sun intensity.

weirdly true to the way that place felt.
Mike Bolte

Trad climber
Planet Earth
Mar 31, 2009 - 10:22pm PT


Nutcracker, Bridwell start 1978
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 1, 2009 - 05:57am PT
If we'd known these photos would be historical one day, we'd all have taken more.
Roxy

Trad climber
CA Central Coast
Apr 1, 2009 - 07:11am PT
Bomber thread...thanks for sharing, what a way to start my work day!
RDB

Trad climber
Iss WA
Apr 1, 2009 - 10:32am PT
Great stuff!
Crimpergirl

Social climber
Boulder, Colorado!
Apr 1, 2009 - 11:15am PT
Mike - I'll email Bob. I was trying to convince him to get on the taco last night. He's playing coy!
weschrist

Gym climber
left sac
Apr 1, 2009 - 11:18am PT


invalid ascent without the 2mm layer of paint...
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 1, 2009 - 11:30am PT
I notice that Largo's excellent "old climb" photos feature honed Stonemasters climbing hard.

My old photos tend to have a much different character, for some reason.

Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 2, 2009 - 10:03am PT
And in that vein ... Dakers Gowans on the FA of Laid Back, 5.8, on Notchtop in RMNP (1974).
Looks like he's scouting around to figure out where the next pitch might go. I'm not sure
what our belay/anchor theory was at the moment.

Reilly

Mountain climber
Monrovia, CA
Apr 2, 2009 - 10:15am PT
Pat Timson wondering where the hell Mastadon is at with their lunch.
Midnight Rock - Tumwater Canyon - Leavenworth, WA 1973?



Nice pants Pat!
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 2, 2009 - 04:33pm PT
Another shot of Dakers Gowans on FA of Laid Back, Notchtop (RMNP) in 1974.
I've never heard of anyone repeating this short but semi-fun route.

SteveW

Trad climber
The state of confusion
Apr 9, 2009 - 09:09am PT
bump!!!22111222111111
Tomcat

Trad climber
Chatham N.H.
Apr 9, 2009 - 10:10am PT
A few gunks climbs from BITD....



Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 9, 2009 - 11:53am PT
Are tribbles eating that first climber's head?
Tomcat

Trad climber
Chatham N.H.
Apr 9, 2009 - 12:22pm PT
Or so it seems.

I laugh robustly...
Reilly

Mountain climber
Monrovia, CA
Apr 9, 2009 - 12:45pm PT
No tribbles were harmed on this route.

Ulf's Arete, Mt Constance, Olympic Mts
FA Ulf Bjornberg, yur humble scribe 1979
Don't think it has been repeated!

It isn't all choss and no fun in the Olympics!








One month after this Ulf died in a rappel accident on the Cookie.
Reilly

Mountain climber
Monrovia, CA
Apr 9, 2009 - 01:50pm PT
Jess tryin' to keep some climbin' on the first page!

City o' de Rocks BITD

Caught One-Handed


Some kind o' nice crack, didn't have a guide book. Oh wait, there wasn't one to be had.


End of the trip...
Crimpergirl

Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
Apr 9, 2009 - 01:52pm PT
This thread gets better and better.
Reilly

Mountain climber
Monrovia, CA
Apr 9, 2009 - 04:34pm PT
Bump for climbing...

The Lithuanian Lip looms on Liberty Crack BITD

Reilly

Mountain climber
Monrovia, CA
Apr 9, 2009 - 04:51pm PT
Talked Mathew Brady into coming along on this route...
Pate

Trad climber
The High And Lonely
Apr 11, 2009 - 09:38am PT
this is a fantastic thread, thanks.

ps, you guys are older than dirt!
MH2

climber
Apr 11, 2009 - 11:10am PT
Scenes from the life of dirt






Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 11, 2009 - 11:41am PT
Lots of variety this page, from Largo to TM with a good share of journeymen in between.
richross

Trad climber
gunks,ny
Apr 11, 2009 - 12:05pm PT
Gunks,early 80's.Photos by Geoff Ohland.

richross

Trad climber
gunks,ny
Apr 16, 2009 - 02:57pm PT
1978 photo by Fred Yaculic.

Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 16, 2009 - 03:06pm PT
Headband, hair, rugby shirt, EBs, white pants, tied 1" slings -- Rich's photo goes the whole 9 yards.
Pate

Trad climber
The Lost Highway
Dec 3, 2009 - 05:56pm PT
another bump for classics
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 19, 2009 - 01:09pm PT
Inspired by Tarbuster's Indian Peaks thread, I dusted off the no-longer-new scanner
and another bad old slide.

Dod's Jam (5.10b) at Beacon Rock in Washington, 1976. Ancient gear notes:
no cams (one set of hexes), white pants, leather-patched EBs. Swami belt, of course,
no harness.

DonC

climber
CA
Dec 19, 2009 - 01:17pm PT
Tahquitz - early ascent of Chingadera
Tahquitz - early ascent of Chingadera
Credit: DonC
Tahquitz - West Lark
Tahquitz - West Lark
Credit: DonC
richross

Trad climber
Dec 19, 2009 - 01:29pm PT
Climber on Terror Firma variation,Gunks.

Bob D'A

Trad climber
Boulder, CO
Dec 19, 2009 - 02:09pm PT
Turkey Rocks...1979

perswig

climber
Dec 19, 2009 - 03:38pm PT
That West Lark pic is great.

Pate

Trad climber
Feb 6, 2010 - 05:41pm PT
top 20 thread bump
Reilly

Mountain climber
Monrovia, CA
Feb 6, 2010 - 06:21pm PT
Ja sure, them Swedes can be intense!



But not so intense with putting the bone dome on properly.
richross

Trad climber
Feb 6, 2010 - 06:27pm PT
Rich Romano on Cosmicpolitan.

SteveW

Trad climber
The state of confusion
Feb 6, 2010 - 08:07pm PT

BUMP THIS THREAD!!!!

Incredible!!!!!!11111
Fritz

Trad climber
Hagerman, ID
Feb 6, 2010 - 09:14pm PT
A "El Nino" Winter in the Cascades. We hiked into Colchuck Lake without skis and climbed north-face of Colchuck.

January 1981 iced up log-crawling: on the way into Colchuck Peak, WA C...
January 1981 iced up log-crawling: on the way into Colchuck Peak, WA Cascades.
Credit: Fritz

The only two gut-checks were the ice-glazed log in photo-----and the early part of the North-face Couloir on Colchuck. I found a short vertical step, a long-way above my partners snow-belay. The whole face above was draining spin-drift on me. As I worked over the vertical, on imaginary holds, the spin-drift kept building up on me.

Unfortunately, I was thinking of the Chouinard/Doug Tomkins "Ice climbing"
poster. The danger of the situation was negated by my mind going: "this is soooo cool"------"it's just like the poster."

Doug & Yvon reached out from the poster-----and lifted me over the vertical.

Steve York on final lead of North-side Mt. Colchuck.
Steve York on final lead of North-side Mt. Colchuck.
Credit: Fritz
Reilly

Mountain climber
Monrovia, CA
Feb 6, 2010 - 11:14pm PT
So I show up somewhat unannounced in Stockholm.
I'm just in time for the fall 'Facelift'. The
powers-that-be declare "Right, mate. You gotta
climb with Kerstin today, got it?"

Damn! The buggers drove a hard bargain but I maintained
a stiff upper lip. It was brutal I tell you!




While the helmet cam is common today few know about its
development in Sweden in the 70's.



richross

Trad climber
Feb 6, 2010 - 11:28pm PT
Vern Clevenger on Birdland.

Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 11, 2010 - 06:52pm PT
No chalk.

Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 11, 2010 - 07:07pm PT
Eldorado Canyon, 1970.

Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 11, 2010 - 07:45pm PT
Blue suede shoes in Boulder Canyon, 1969

cowpoke

climber
Aug 4, 2010 - 01:35pm PT
within these pages lies some of the good stuff.

edit: or is it "some of the good stuff lies within these pages?"...shoulda just said, "some of the good stuff is here"
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Carson city Nev.
Aug 4, 2010 - 01:42pm PT
AYYYyyyymen....
Jeremy

Social climber
Albuquerque, NM
Aug 5, 2010 - 09:31am PT
BUMP cuz this thread is BITCHIN!

J
ydpl8s

Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
Aug 5, 2010 - 10:08am PT
Comeback Crack - Castle Rock - Boulder Canyon - 1972

Comeback Crack
Comeback Crack
Credit: ydpl8s


Super Slab Direct - Eldo - Gary Hall - early 70's

Super Slab Direct
Super Slab Direct
Credit: ydpl8s


Blue suede shoes on The Dome, Boulder Canyon 1972

East Face
East Face
Credit: ydpl8s
tuolumne_tradster

Trad climber
Leading Edge of North American Plate
Aug 5, 2010 - 01:31pm PT
Traveler Buttress, photo courtesy "50"

The Line

Chris Dale on Lucky Streaks

Sheepdog on Central Pillar of Frenzy

Base of the U Notch w/storm approaching

"50" when he was around 30 on Hoodwink roof
Jim E

climber
away
Aug 5, 2010 - 01:37pm PT
Chiloe, This one needs 'before and after' style shot. Anyone have a shot of the current day bridge?
Mike Bolte

Trad climber
Planet Earth
Aug 5, 2010 - 03:03pm PT
Great thread! Nice additions tuolumne_tradster.
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 5, 2010 - 06:51pm PT
Jim E:
Chiloe, This one needs 'before and after' style shot. Anyone have a shot of the current day bridge?

Yeah, Goatboy or Philo or somebody else local must have the right "after" shot for the bridge.
50

climber
Stumptown
Aug 5, 2010 - 11:09pm PT
...new scanner -- older climbers

Tuolumne Tradster, sunrise on the Hotlum Glacier, Mt Shasta, 1980s
Tuolumne Tradster, sunrise on the Hotlum Glacier, Mt Shasta, 1980s
Credit: 50
Tuolumne Tradster running it out on "styrofoam conditions", Hotlum Gla...
Tuolumne Tradster running it out on "styrofoam conditions", Hotlum Glacier, Mt Shasta
Credit: 50
Toulumne Tradster, Spiderman, Smith Rock
Toulumne Tradster, Spiderman, Smith Rock
Credit: 50
Tuolumne Tradster when EBs and headbands were cool and Smith Rock hadn...
Tuolumne Tradster when EBs and headbands were cool and Smith Rock hadn't been on the cover of Mountain magazine
Credit: 50
Explosive Energy Child, Smith Rock, a while back
Explosive Energy Child, Smith Rock, a while back
Credit: 50

tuolumne_tradster

Trad climber
Leading Edge of North American Plate
Aug 5, 2010 - 11:15pm PT
Awesome dude...thanks for posting. Great memories.
sheepdog

Trad climber
just over the hill
Aug 6, 2010 - 07:34am PT
Thanks for the memories TT! I'm sure you guys haven't changed a bit.

Nice to see the Sticht plate in the photo with the Welshman.
ydpl8s

Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
Oct 11, 2011 - 07:39am PT
Bumpin this for Hank and some really great historical climbing content.
cowpoke

climber
Nov 30, 2012 - 04:28pm PT
A classic.
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Nov 30, 2012 - 04:37pm PT
Older climbers? Check!

Jim Wickwire and Dusan Jagersky (RIP) Trust me, it's them.
Credit: Reilly
T Hocking

Trad climber
Redding, Ca
Nov 30, 2012 - 05:32pm PT
Cool BITD thread!
Tad
perswig

climber
Dec 1, 2012 - 02:59am PT
Perswig, sipping tea at Ohdarkthirty, very much appreciates this bump, Cowpoke.

Thanks.
Dale
hobo_dan

Social climber
Minnesota
Dec 1, 2012 - 07:41pm PT
I need to re-post and bump it again--This is soooo great!
I'm loving the old school
Crimpergirl

Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
Dec 1, 2012 - 07:53pm PT


Here is an 'after' photo of the bridge taken by BrassNuts. Still looking for one from the same perspective as what is posted upthread...
Andy Fielding

Trad climber
UK
Dec 4, 2012 - 12:21pm PT
First aid climbing route, Malham Main Overhang, A3, 1979. I'm the one in the middle.
Malham Main Overhang, 1979
Malham Main Overhang, 1979
Credit: Andy Fielding
climbski2

Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
Dec 5, 2012 - 01:51pm PT
New scanner today

April 91 11,200' Denali I was an apprentice guide for Genet Expeditions. Pic is Climbing Ranger Renny Jackson (I think). Lead guide Scott Woolums and Assistant Harry Hunt. Interesting history around that .....



Myself in July 91

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