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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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Nice post, Mark.
You guys were nuts. Likeable, very skilled, and brave, but f*#king nuts.
You have all that warm, sunlit granite to climb and, as Kevin points out, warm beds with pretty girls to get a good nights rest and have some real fun, and you choose adventure--bivvying on some frozen ledge on the dark side of the Valley, with bell bottom corduroys (at least you were stylish).
Now you have sensible ST Campers plucking up the courage to say, "I want to try vertical ice. The closer to warm, sunlit granite the better to measure my suffering."
Otherwise, very nice. Great that you had a camera. I don't think that I even knew you, Kevin and Jim were doing that. The dorm room I was staying in was very comfortable and I barely looked out the window--I was having too much fun, so to speak.
Best, Roger
PS: Anyone want to see my old images of sunlit granite and well appointed dorm rooms?
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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It would be seasonal to have this appear briefly. Steve might call it bardbait, I suppose. Bump.
Edit: Bumped because it's so interesting, and is seasonal. Embryonic indexes have their uses. Not bumped so as to pester Roger - though if he has old pictures, it would be nice to see them, and hear some stories.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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hey Roger, the answer is YES, we want to see your pictures!
(haven't you got them scanned yet?!)
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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Hey guys, that post was from Apirl of 07. It is a new year. No fair. Anyway, I was just jerking Mark's chain and pointing out my totally different (and misguided, it turns out) approach to the purpose of climbing: I thought it was to have fun and Mark thought it was to be hard--really, really hard.
OK, OK. Sometimes we fun loving guys were really, really hard too, but I ain't showing you any pictures taken in some cozy dorm room.
And, no, Ed, I have not scanned in my pictures. Not even the sunlite granite ones.
Happy New Year.
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FeelioBabar
climber
Sneaking up behind you...
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Cool pics. Thanks for sharing.
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Ihateplastic
Trad climber
Lake Oswego, Oregon
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A brief anecdote to tap onto this thread.
The climb of Sentinel Falls was reported in Mountain magazine #42 (March/April 1975.) In the same column is a brief report on Chapman's and Worral's ascent of The Widow's Tear. The headline was, 'Frozen Yosemite waterfalls climbed by Chapman and Worral."
Sometime after the issue came out I was hanging around C4 when I saw Mark walk into the site where Bridwell an Worral were hanging out. Bridwell announced loudly, "Chapman climbs frozen Worral!" To a young, impressionable mind this was the funniest and coolest thing I had ever heard.
Aside: Mark... I used to work at Mountain Life in Campbell with Dan McHale, Mark Rodell, Bob Todd, Bill Burns, Jack Forsythe, etc. I climbed mostly with Blanchard, Glen Garland, etc. I remember the day you came in and we all checked out the new Ascent magazine with your Owl Roof shots. Cool stuff!
Simon
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mooch
Big Wall climber
The Immaculate Conception
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Awe struck!! A wonderful gem to post up Mark!!
Thanks,
Dave
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Jan 25, 2010 - 10:15pm PT
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killer!
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Reilly
Mountain climber
Monrovia, CA
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Jan 25, 2010 - 10:30pm PT
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Noyce tools! I'd say those make it at least two grades harder.
Boyz didn't even have any Terros? Sheeesh!
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hoipolloi
climber
A friends backyard with the neighbors wifi
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Jan 25, 2010 - 10:42pm PT
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A nice dig up from the bowels of the topo.
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Flanders!
Trad climber
June Lake, CA
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Jan 25, 2010 - 11:25pm PT
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nice one Chappy,
great to see some pics of Valley ice history.
I missed this one the 1st time around, glad it
got resurrected .
Doug
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HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
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Jan 26, 2010 - 06:19pm PT
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Sheeeeit!
Awesome and understated TR.
I laughed at corduroy bell bottoms. And then I shivered.
Reading it, I was wondering: "OMG they didn't bivvy a second night did they?"
Very well done.
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MisterE
Social climber
Across Town From Easy Street
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Apr 18, 2010 - 04:44pm PT
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Love this story.
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Apr 18, 2010 - 10:23pm PT
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hey there mrE... wow, a chappy bump! ... nice job, mrE!
say, i know he is busy and most likely won't see this, but:
i love my brother... :)
>:D<
*happy work season, to you ol' chappy!
(say, i just met a friend from england and her grandmother was a
chapman too... oh my!)
(the name is more popular, there, than it as for us, as kids...
though, i have seen it more common now, on the net, than in the phone books, back in our day)...
back to the chappy story...
:)
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ec
climber
ca
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Apr 18, 2010 - 11:17pm PT
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Thx!
In the pics the ice seemed mighty sparse compared to when I did it in the mid-80's. Leversee, Mark Sergent, Gagner and I thought we could xc-ski out to the thing. The road was bare and had to hoof it from Badger carrying our skis. While on the route it snowed like Hell and it took more than a moment to find our stash after the climb. I was so tired during the marginal ski back. Several times I kept having a vision of Gagner kneeling on the road in the ski trail, so real I was blown away that he wasn't really there. By the third time I said to myself, "F*ck-it" and bowled right over him!
 ec
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F10
Trad climber
e350 / Bishop
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Apr 18, 2010 - 11:48pm PT
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I remember seeing this post earlier, great stuff.
This is why most of us hang out here on the Taco.
Keep it up
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Bldrjac
Ice climber
Boulder
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Apr 19, 2010 - 12:28am PT
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Mark,
Good job finding those photos and posting them...........Ah, those were the days.
Jim Orey is a pilot flying out of Sacramento. Last I heard he was doing well but hasn't climbed in years. Hope you are still enjoying the beaches of S. Cal.
Jack Roberts
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Fuzzywuzzy
climber
suspendedhappynation
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Aug 22, 2010 - 01:08am PT
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Roger.....
"PS: Anyone want to see my old images of sunlit granite and well appointed dorm rooms?"
Yes Yes Yes!
Just spent the day with Janet - Jim Orey's partner. They still climb a bit and are very well in Truckee!!
TC
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