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Messages 1 - 22 of total 22 in this topic
Indianclimber

climber
Las Vegas
Mar 23, 2007 - 02:31pm PT
Smartass bump


OOPs wrong Matterhorn
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Mar 23, 2007 - 03:02pm PT
Is Mickey wearing a NASA diaper?
Jude Bischoff

Ice climber
Palm Springs
Mar 24, 2007 - 01:10am PT
That is one awesome climb. The exposed fresh air traverse and standing on that prow just before the summit will knoock your fantsy shoes. Double Dihedral, not sure where that is or which route we ended up on, you've got choices.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Mar 24, 2007 - 02:58am PT
You may be referring to the corners and the diehedral left of the prominent arete, dead center below the Summit?
Not sure of the Dbl Diehedral name...





Certainly a very nice 5.7 pitch; this is that final corner shown above.
We came in from the left, a bit up the talus and did a traverse into the main line, opting out of the direct start.

rhyang

Ice climber
SJC
Mar 27, 2007 - 12:51am PT
For anyone else curious, the right honorable gentleman DMT posted some info here ... apparently the pics are from Sept. sometime.
Raydog

Trad climber
Boulder
Mar 27, 2007 - 01:01am PT
Tar in the A-kickin' blue suede shoes...
Gary

climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
Mar 27, 2007 - 11:27am PT
Tarbuster, that's 5.7? Yikes.
Dingus Milktoast

climber
NorCal
Mar 27, 2007 - 11:34am PT
Tarbuster's line is the North Arete. Here's a different perspective:


As you can see its quite featured. Its a great climb, not hard at all. Double Dihedral has a different character (less civilized) and take a couple of wide pieces for the upper pitches.

DMT
Brutus of Wyde

climber
Old Climbers' Home, Oakland CA
Mar 27, 2007 - 08:24pm PT
Nurse Ratchet and I tried it this past summer. Hard steep snow to get to the first pitch. We had 6-point crampons and an axe apiece, had to belay the snow, coulda used 12-points and real tools. Once we got to the base of the first pitch it was an ice-filled chimney.

From the base of the first pitch we traversed left out to the sunny, warm North Arete. Followed that for a few pitches. traversed back to the base of the upper of the Double Dihedrals. Back to North arete.

Dingus... "a few wide pieces"... HA! that last pitch in the corner is solid wide for almost 100 feet.

DD is a cold route. We were there August 11-12 '06. It never saw the sun and it was way too snowy and way to cold. Might be better this next year with the '07 drought underway. But were I to try it again I'd schedule my climb in early September in hopes for less ice.

Notice that even in Tar's photo there is a steep snow approach to the first pitch, and if you look close you can see the ice-choked chimney above.

Brutus
Dingus Milktoast

climber
NorCal
Mar 27, 2007 - 08:54pm PT
Check this one out Brutus



You can see the same hedral in this pic... no snow! No ice at all. I think it was in Sept though I don't remember exactly.

How was the tour last weekend?

DMT
Brutus of Wyde

climber
Old Climbers' Home, Oakland CA
Mar 29, 2007 - 12:26am PT
Tour was great!

So little snow on the ground in North Tahoe we never even bothered setting up the car shuttle.

Ended the traverse at the front door of the condo where we were staying.

... then the car owners got a taxi back to where we left the cars.

Headed out tomorrow for another day of downhill before it all melts.

As far as your photo, Dingus, I notice nearly all of the DD is still in the shade though. (which wouldn't be a bad thing on a warm day...

Brutus
stich

Trad climber
Denver, Colorado
Mar 29, 2007 - 12:31am PT
We have a Matterhorn peak here in Colorado of course. I take it this one is in Kali?
davidji

Social climber
CA
Mar 29, 2007 - 12:52am PT
Yup. In Yosemite. Part of it anyway.
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Jul 2, 2012 - 12:54pm PT
So a friend of mine and I wanted some adventurous climbing. Started from trail-head at 4am. We did some kind of a mix starting somewhere on the N. Arete without a topo. Climbing at first felt a bit harder than supposed to, I guess we were a bit off 'route.' Than we climbed over and ended up bellow the last few pitches of Double Dihedral. The big/wide dihedral pitch looked really good and it was my lead. The only problem was that my biggest cam was a 2.5inch mastercam LOL. I took it a step at a time and was able to sling couple of dirty chock stones in that dihedral. It was exciting. I remember my friend saying "seems like nutjob climbing." A bit past the second chock stone you could actually put gear in and climbing eases off. Another cruxy section at the top but well protected. Than you end up in a notch with a headwall. There was a rap station to get to 4th class gully. Instead I led up the headwall, which again was exciting. By the time you get first good pro in you are way up there. Wasn't hard climbing but I was careful to test every feature on the face since some of them could break off. Than we traversed to Dragtooth and Doodad after. The Teeth looked a bit nuts...

PS: Bring bigger pieces if you want to climb DD. I bet it will feel a lot better if you do : )

Pretty
Pretty
Credit: Vitaliy M.
Double Dihedral-wide pitch
Double Dihedral-wide pitch
Credit: Vitaliy M.
Looking down after getting through the sickness
Looking down after getting through the sickness
Credit: Vitaliy M.
Doodad
Doodad
Credit: Vitaliy M.
Climbing Doodad
Climbing Doodad
Credit: Vitaliy M.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Moundhouse Nev.
Jul 2, 2012 - 01:49pm PT
BABAHAAA!^^^^^ Perfect imitation! LOVE the DOODAD, the col -de-doodad .
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Jul 2, 2012 - 02:07pm PT
Perfect imitation!


+1. That's a good one.

Here is a good imitation of Sawblade. Crazy looking ridge with some major loose blocks.

http://www.fine-tools.com/kobozaehne.jpg

big wall paul

Trad climber
tahoe, CA
Jul 2, 2012 - 09:52pm PT
eh, i was reading this thread, when I saw Brutus of Wyde post, too bad he is no longer with us.
I never met him, but all his stories make me feel like I knew him,
make me miss climbing so much
Aki J

Trad climber
Placerville, CA
Jul 2, 2012 - 11:57pm PT
Interestingly enough, I was the leader of the party below you, Vitaliy M. The last Pitch of North Arete is way fun and you don't need big gear, also you get to traverse out to the main arete at the end for an awesome finish. What are the New (looking) rap stations there for? saw one at the top, and one on the double dihedral ledge.
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Jul 3, 2012 - 01:18am PT
The last Pitch of North Arete is way fun and you don't need big gear

I was talking about wide dihedral we climbed (finish of Double Dihedral route), not the North Arete finish (have not climbed that yet, but probably will some day). We saw a rap station when we topped our dihedral. I guess it is to avoid the head-wall. I did not see any other rap stations after that.

Nice running into other people. Usually we would stop and chat a bit, but we wanted to get to Doodad...
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Jul 3, 2012 - 01:23am PT
What we didn't do was brave it out up that wide bit, like yall did. Well done.

As I said, my friend called it 'nutjob climbing,' you are much smarter than me. If not for those chock stones, I would be screwed.
toxo

Trad climber
Jul 3, 2012 - 02:11am PT
I remember my friend saying "seems like nutjob climbing."

I just have been told this statement is libelous.

EDIT: There is a rebuttal to what I posted above. I rescind my statement.

Internet = Serious Business

Seriously, you guise.
Chris Brent

Sport climber
San Francisco
Jul 3, 2012 - 02:00pm PT
Re: the rap rings. someone on either Mount Project or Summit Post (I can't find the post now) claims they added rap stations down the arete to enable getting off quicker. I leave the ethics of this for others to debate.
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