Indianclimber
climber
Las Vegas
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Mar 23, 2007 - 11:31am PT
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Smartass bump
OOPs wrong Matterhorn
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Mar 23, 2007 - 12:02pm PT
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Is Mickey wearing a NASA diaper?
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Jude Bischoff
Ice climber
Palm Springs
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Mar 23, 2007 - 10:10pm PT
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That is one awesome climb. The exposed fresh air traverse and standing on that prow just before the summit will knoock your fantsy shoes. Double Dihedral, not sure where that is or which route we ended up on, you've got choices.
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rhyang
Ice climber
SJC
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Mar 26, 2007 - 09:51pm PT
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For anyone else curious, the right honorable gentleman DMT posted some info here ... apparently the pics are from Sept. sometime.
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder
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Mar 26, 2007 - 10:01pm PT
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Tar in the A-kickin' blue suede shoes...
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Gary
climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
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Mar 27, 2007 - 08:27am PT
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Tarbuster, that's 5.7? Yikes.
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Dingus Milktoast
climber
NorCal
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Mar 27, 2007 - 08:34am PT
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Tarbuster's line is the North Arete. Here's a different perspective:
As you can see its quite featured. Its a great climb, not hard at all. Double Dihedral has a different character (less civilized) and take a couple of wide pieces for the upper pitches.
DMT
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Brutus of Wyde
climber
Old Climbers' Home, Oakland CA
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Mar 27, 2007 - 05:24pm PT
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Nurse Ratchet and I tried it this past summer. Hard steep snow to get to the first pitch. We had 6-point crampons and an axe apiece, had to belay the snow, coulda used 12-points and real tools. Once we got to the base of the first pitch it was an ice-filled chimney.
From the base of the first pitch we traversed left out to the sunny, warm North Arete. Followed that for a few pitches. traversed back to the base of the upper of the Double Dihedrals. Back to North arete.
Dingus... "a few wide pieces"... HA! that last pitch in the corner is solid wide for almost 100 feet.
DD is a cold route. We were there August 11-12 '06. It never saw the sun and it was way too snowy and way to cold. Might be better this next year with the '07 drought underway. But were I to try it again I'd schedule my climb in early September in hopes for less ice.
Notice that even in Tar's photo there is a steep snow approach to the first pitch, and if you look close you can see the ice-choked chimney above.
Brutus
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Dingus Milktoast
climber
NorCal
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Mar 27, 2007 - 05:54pm PT
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Check this one out Brutus
You can see the same hedral in this pic... no snow! No ice at all. I think it was in Sept though I don't remember exactly.
How was the tour last weekend?
DMT
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Brutus of Wyde
climber
Old Climbers' Home, Oakland CA
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Mar 28, 2007 - 09:26pm PT
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Tour was great!
So little snow on the ground in North Tahoe we never even bothered setting up the car shuttle.
Ended the traverse at the front door of the condo where we were staying.
... then the car owners got a taxi back to where we left the cars.
Headed out tomorrow for another day of downhill before it all melts.
As far as your photo, Dingus, I notice nearly all of the DD is still in the shade though. (which wouldn't be a bad thing on a warm day...
Brutus
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stich
Trad climber
Denver, Colorado
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Mar 28, 2007 - 09:31pm PT
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We have a Matterhorn peak here in Colorado of course. I take it this one is in Kali?
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davidji
Social climber
CA
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Mar 28, 2007 - 09:52pm PT
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Yup. In Yosemite. Part of it anyway.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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So a friend of mine and I wanted some adventurous climbing. Started from trail-head at 4am. We did some kind of a mix starting somewhere on the N. Arete without a topo. Climbing at first felt a bit harder than supposed to, I guess we were a bit off 'route.' Than we climbed over and ended up bellow the last few pitches of Double Dihedral. The big/wide dihedral pitch looked really good and it was my lead. The only problem was that my biggest cam was a 2.5inch mastercam LOL. I took it a step at a time and was able to sling couple of dirty chock stones in that dihedral. It was exciting. I remember my friend saying "seems like nutjob climbing." A bit past the second chock stone you could actually put gear in and climbing eases off. Another cruxy section at the top but well protected. Than you end up in a notch with a headwall. There was a rap station to get to 4th class gully. Instead I led up the headwall, which again was exciting. By the time you get first good pro in you are way up there. Wasn't hard climbing but I was careful to test every feature on the face since some of them could break off. Than we traversed to Dragtooth and Doodad after. The Teeth looked a bit nuts...
PS: Bring bigger pieces if you want to climb DD. I bet it will feel a lot better if you do : )
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Ron Anderson
Trad climber
USA Moundhouse Nev.
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BABAHAAA!^^^^^ Perfect imitation! LOVE the DOODAD, the col -de-doodad .
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big wall paul
Trad climber
tahoe, CA
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eh, i was reading this thread, when I saw Brutus of Wyde post, too bad he is no longer with us.
I never met him, but all his stories make me feel like I knew him,
make me miss climbing so much
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Aki J
Trad climber
Placerville, CA
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Interestingly enough, I was the leader of the party below you, Vitaliy M. The last Pitch of North Arete is way fun and you don't need big gear, also you get to traverse out to the main arete at the end for an awesome finish. What are the New (looking) rap stations there for? saw one at the top, and one on the double dihedral ledge.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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The last Pitch of North Arete is way fun and you don't need big gear
I was talking about wide dihedral we climbed (finish of Double Dihedral route), not the North Arete finish (have not climbed that yet, but probably will some day). We saw a rap station when we topped our dihedral. I guess it is to avoid the head-wall. I did not see any other rap stations after that.
Nice running into other people. Usually we would stop and chat a bit, but we wanted to get to Doodad...
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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What we didn't do was brave it out up that wide bit, like yall did. Well done.
As I said, my friend called it 'nutjob climbing,' you are much smarter than me. If not for those chock stones, I would be screwed.
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