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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 7, 2007 - 11:18pm PT
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Just keeping the photo-climbing-related momentum alive...my version of projectile photo-ing. Climbed in June of '95 with two of my favorite net-climbing-buddies.
North Face of Sentinel Rock
Somewhat unique perspective of Sentinel, shot from near the bottom of the descent gully.
Approaching up the last ramp to the base of the route.
Brutus about to enter the maw on the first pitch.
Brutus working that action on the Wilson Overhang.
Inez near the top of the sixth pitch.
Bruce on pitch seven.
The wicked wide crack pitch after doing the short rap off the left side of the Flying Buttress.
Starting the tenth pitch (face pitch)
Brutus in The Narrows. Tight fit!
Brutus on pitch thirteen. Probably about 8pm or so.
Brutus starts up the last pitch...we topped out at midnight.
Brutus and I had hiked to the top of Sentinel the day before to pick up some gear he'd had on top for doing some maintenance on the route. We dropped off all the bivy gear and food for the next night, gathered some wood, then hiked back down. What I didn't realize at the time was WHAT was in the food stash. After topping out at midnight, we celebrated with a box of wine, grilled prawns, mushroom rice, and grilled chicken boobs. Jeebus, it was a feast!! The next morning dawned beautiful blue and sunny. I wasn't even out of my bag when Brutus comes over and hands me a giant Mountain Dew.
In case anyone doesn't know it yet...Brutus Rulez!!!
Battered hands the next morning.
The awesome view back down to the Valley from the notch.
Achilles on the summit celebrating victory!
Brutus on the descent.
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Out on the sand.... man.....
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Good one!
Achilles on the summit celebrating victory!
Can a "package shot" be far behind???
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the Fet
Knackered climber
A bivy sack in the secret campground
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Baggy sweats were totally awesome.
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Matt
Trad climber
places you shouldn't talk about in polite company
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awesome!
thought that guy'd sworn off the valley
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Good one again!
I'm frothing at the mouth,
Gotta git some mo ah dat.
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spyork
Social climber
Land of Green Stretchy People
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Great TR!
That one's on my list fer sure!
Now I gotta keep training on the Chimney and OW, and find a victim, err partner...
Steve
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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zowie! thanks for the report... starting to get quite a photodocument of the Steck Salathe in taco land!
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Brutus does rule!
The stash of treats on top is pure Brutus too.
Topping out at Midnight on SS. Been there, done that and no treats to boot!
Thanks
karl
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder
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I'm frothing in my wheelchair.
Maybe when they install a cable-car to the top for a TR...
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monolith
Trad climber
Albany,CA
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Been back at the car at midnight(Halloween night), but would have been much more enjoyable to have a stash on top and spent the night.
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atchafalaya
Trad climber
California
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thanks, forgot the narrows were that thin. Sweet tr.
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 8, 2007 - 08:52am PT
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The Narrows were another story of Brutus-generosity. I'm a big boy and the claustrophobic idea of trying to squiggle up into the Narrows and getting stuck didn't appeal to me at all. It didn't help that Brutus was telling me stories about some large friend of his that got jammed up in there and only managed to get through by screaming to the point that his chest cavity was completely drained and he could make progress an inch at a time. Plus, it was getting late and we needed to keep moving.
To solve the problem, Bruce led the Narrows pitch in about three minutes total. Once there, he pulled the rope up, tied some gear on the end and, after a few tries, managed to get it to swing back into the chimney outside the chockstones. I was free to climb to the outside and up from there. I still remember getting out there and doing this bizzare pirouette to get straightened out when I left the chimney. Salathé’s bolts were out there swinging in the breeze. Very cool.
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Cool beans!
That would be an awesome bivvy, but I'm way too lazy to make an extra trip.
However, if it was cheap enough I might pay to have a catered bivvy up there.
talk about impressing a date.
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piquaclimber
Trad climber
Durango
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Very fun. Thanks for posting up.
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artmusicsouth
climber
VA
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I particularly enjoyed the pink and purple pants. Woohoo!
Mark
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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Great TR,
I remember being so tired and beat at the top. If someone had handed me a Mountain Dew then I would have sworn everlasting fealty. You guys have style!
Zander
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L
climber
The City of Lost Angels
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Steel--That shot of the Valley from the Notch was incredibly beautiful, and Achilles on the summit was just Pure Art. Spectacular TR--thanks so much!
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frisbee
climber
{this page left blank intentionally}
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I really really want to do this route. Thanks for the pics and write-up!
Jake
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 8, 2007 - 01:11pm PT
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It's pretty well known these days, but I'll reiterate...this was one of the burliest, physical routes I've ever done. I felt pretty beat up for most of the route. Not sure what would be good preparation, just be forewarned that this thing will pound you.
I've heard Yosemite Point Buttress is in the same vein as this route, but I haven't done that one. Funny how both of those completely burly-style crack routes were first done by Allen Steck, who I've seen dance up face routes without the slightest sign of effort. Plain truth...that dude could (and still does) send!
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Awesome. Thanks for a great TR on one of THE classic all-time Yosemite routes.
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Nohea
Trad climber
Aiea,Hi
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Mar 17, 2007 - 06:07am PT
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Bravo!
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joane
climber
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Mar 17, 2007 - 09:12am PT
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What a super "presentation!!! it was a real pleasure to look through all of the photos and your notes on them. I'm hoping to look up the climb's topo here and learn more about it. I also liked the extra posts you followed up on in talking about some of the climb memories. Big blue skies, the best to climb under, and lots of daylight too, so nice. THANKS
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Mar 17, 2007 - 11:32am PT
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Great TR from an ultraclassic line. I remember doing that route with Paul Davidson a quarter cnetury ago and laboring away for a full twelve hour day to collapse on the summit with the sun already setting. Searching around in the register, the first entry that I see is from Kauk and Bridwell a few days prior. "2 1/2 hours. Nice route. Speed City." Sigh.
We gathered up our pride and anything else that might have been laying around on the ground and headed for the Valley floor.
As the tale goes, there used to be an original can of Salathe's bivi food tucked away in a crack under the Narrows. I wonder what ever became of that little curiousity? I couldn't find it when I went by.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Mar 17, 2007 - 11:50am PT
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Fine photo-TR of this legendary route. And approach. I've never climbed Sentinel, but stories about the approach and descent sometimes sound more intimidating than the Narrows.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Mar 17, 2007 - 09:35pm PT
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Neither is really reason to miss out on the SS or West Face! Just long routes with lots of adventure. You can stare up at the thing from Camp Four only so long before you gotta check it out.
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Mar 18, 2007 - 01:22am PT
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about as good as it gets, burlyness is it's own reward.
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bachar
Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Mar 18, 2007 - 01:31pm PT
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Burly man....burly.
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John Moosie
climber
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Mar 18, 2007 - 11:38pm PT
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Bump to keep it on the front page. Great trip report. Bigtime thanks !!!
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westhegimp
Social climber
granada hills
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Mar 19, 2007 - 12:15am PT
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Thanks for the TR! Awesome pics. Keep them comming please. Wes
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WBraun
climber
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Bump
Somehow missed this beauty of a thread. A classic.
Thanks Steelmnkey.
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Fletcher
Trad climber
Varied locales along the time and space continuum
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I somehow missed this one too. Mille grazie! Anything with Inez and Brutus has gotta be good and you certainly delivered, steelmnkey.
Fletch
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Inner City
Trad climber
East Bay
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Bump for Steck, saw him at Andronico's market on Solano last weekend--still looks strong and wiry....cool trip report.
Couldn't do the route years ago when I was stronger....
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HalHammer
Trad climber
CA
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Was hard but not as bad as people make it out to be. We started at 5 A.M. and finished in just under 11 hours. We weren't that experienced with wide cracks, but luckily the protection was usually pretty forgiving when it got burly. Pretty much just a long physicial climb. If you are in decent shape and feel solid on 5.9 it shouldn't be too bad. Doing the NEB of Higher the week before was good prep for us. The EB of El Cap was good too. I liked the comparison that it would be like doing the NEB with Braile Book Stacked on top. The approach and descent weren't really any worse than the spires gully.
We carried small camelbacks and wore helmets, plus our shoes tied to our waist. The helmets were annoying in the narrows and in a tighter squeeze section above the wilson overhang but other than that we were fine.
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David Nelson
climber
San Francisco
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Real climbing on a climbing site! Great pix and comments. Got some of the old timers to remember their climbs, too. Keep 'em coming.
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john hansen
climber
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Steve G,, was that the famous can of figs? Chicken Skinner would kill for that one..
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Texplorer
Trad climber
Las Vegas
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thanks for the post, brings back some good memories of one of my favorite climbs.
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
Otto, NC
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Thanks! We should all be so lucky as to climb with a pre-laid supper. I was thinking "wow, 3 people, ambitious' but then I saw that the man had a plan...
I'm bumping the real deal, with no apologies to political ranters, Paris Hilton fer chrissakes, and all that other crap.
Long live climbing on the Taco!
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Kyle Marks
Trad climber
Sacramento
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Sep 22, 2015 - 05:23pm PT
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Seems like the links to these photos are broken? Any way I can still see them. Would be really helpful for my friend and I on the approach beta.
Thanks!
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| Messages 1 - 41 of total 41 in this topic |
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