Great Moments in Climbing: Dropping the rack! Who's done it?

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Messages 81 - 100 of total 140 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C. Small wall climber.
Oct 31, 2009 - 05:28pm PT
So maybe we should nickname Pete as "Drop the Pitons Pete". :-)
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Oct 31, 2009 - 06:13pm PT
I prefer Pass The Pampers Pete, myself. The Sub-Subman!
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
Oct 31, 2009 - 10:02pm PT
At least I can still climb walls, Steve...
Jan

Mountain climber
Okinawa, Japan
Oct 31, 2009 - 10:24pm PT
I've never dropped any gear that I can remember, but I did manage to drop a big rock in the middle of Layton Kor's brand new perlon rope on the first pitch of the first climb I ever did with him! He and I and Larry Dalke were up on Red Garden Wall in Eldorado with my only previous experience being on the Flatirons. I had done maybe half a dozen climbs before and stood up on a big block that looked solid to me.

The only good thing was that the rope had been given to him by one of the local climbing shops since kermantle ropes were just coming on line and they wanted him to test it compared to the usual goldline. He and Larry were very interested to see what the inside of it looked like.

Fortunately Layton was a very forgiving person, especially toward naive young coeds, so we went up the next week and finished the climb and did many more.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Nov 1, 2009 - 12:07am PT
Pete- Anyone can stand in slings and act heroic, but what have you really added to the game? I am far from done having fun on the Captain, by the way.
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C. Small wall climber.
Nov 1, 2009 - 12:40am PT
I will happily carry loads, jumar, clean, haul and keep either (or both) of you company on a trip up the Captain, by any reasonable route. And even lead a few pitches, if that would help. Such wall and aid climbing skills as I have may be somewhat rusty, and techniques and equipment have advanced, but with a bit of help I can probably figure it out, and not drop the rack or anything klutzy.

I draw the line at foot rubs, though.
MisterE

Trad climber
Canoga Bark! CA
Nov 1, 2009 - 01:18am PT
No drop, but another "forgot the rack" story on a 10-pitch 5.12a, David Bloom Rockstar:

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=608543

Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Vancouver Canada
Nov 1, 2009 - 01:34am PT
Hello Rick,

Just wanted to say Greg F and I repeated Electric Ladyland in the past, and that photo sharpened my recollection.

Thanks for a brilliant route. The roof finish made for one of the best exitements of Yosemite. Highly recomended.

Jim
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Nov 1, 2009 - 02:15pm PT
Jobee gal, you are STUD!!!
Gobee

Trad climber
Los Angeles
Nov 1, 2009 - 04:49pm PT
I dropped the RP's, and my sleeping bag on the P.O. Wall, I didn't have a rainfly that worked and my bag got soaked, so when it cleared up I put my bag out on my ledge to dry out. Just a little of the end was hanging off the side. I turned away for a second before I could clip it in. The end of the bag was so water logged, it just slid off like a Slinky! When I turned around I felt like Curly of The Three Stooges..."Where'd it go"!
Needless to say I had a few cold nights! I did find it at the base after!
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
Nov 1, 2009 - 05:56pm PT
Steve,

Glad you're not finished having fun on the Captain yet. It's my favourite campground.

FWIW, I have been told by scores of people [if not a hundred or more over the years] that I have taught them more about big wall climbing - by them reading my various "Dr. Piton how-to" posts - than they have learned in any book or magazine or anyplace else. There is not a week that goes by in Yosemite where somebody doesn't come by and thank me for something I've written that they used to help them in some way.

Even more importantly, people tell me that I have inspired them to climb big walls, especially solo. A lot of people have told me that the stuff they've learned from my writing has helped them reach the summit, and nothing pleases me more than to hear that.

And as for you aspiring Big Wall Theorists, who have yet to reach the summit of a big wall by legit means, don't give up - if a middle-aged overweight weiner-armed part-time wanker-climber like me can get to the top, then so can you.

Anders - you're on! Your first requirement will be to bring us a really nice bottle of cab or shiraz, and none o' that BC crap! We might have to go on a Field Trip to source it out ourselves in Napa or Sonoma first.

[Actually, I did enjoy one really fine bottle of BC wine this year, which came as a very pleasant surprise. It was a bottle of old vine zin, can't remember the winery, though]

Oh yeah, I dropped my sleeping bag once off of Aurora. I was not too concerned, because I had a bivi sack that I could sleep in. Except that the next night, I dropped that too! For the rest of the wall, I wrapped myself up in my rain fly - sheesh. Dropped a jug off of Excalibur, but had a spare on my 2:1. Dropped a shoe off of Never Never Land - that *really* sucked because I had to wear a borrowed free climbing shoe that was way too small, so tight I had to soak it with water every morning before I put it on. Dropped my raincoat off of NA Wall, but Ricardo recovered it for me. I've dropped one hammer, and one helmet + headlamp. I don't believe I have ever dropped a beer, but have spilled a couple. I really need Russ to come up with some clever idea for a beer holder on my ledge, but I'm not sure how.
426

climber
Buzzard Point, TN
Nov 1, 2009 - 06:02pm PT
Heh, almost lends credence to Skinner's motto "aid climbing ain't climbing".

You ever hear from Jon Fox?
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
Nov 1, 2009 - 06:07pm PT
I never claimed to be a climber! I am merely a big wall camper. The climbing is just a necessary encumbrance to reach the bitchin'est campsites. Besides, it's aid climbing, which is inherently cheating, anyway.

Nope, I have never have heard from Jon. No idea what became of him, unfortunately. Isn't there are "where's Jon Fox?" post on here somewhere we ought to bump?
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Nov 1, 2009 - 06:54pm PT
THAT explains everything...............
Tami

Social climber
Vancouver, Canada
Nov 1, 2009 - 10:15pm PT
I witnessed the entire haul bag fall down from Uncle Bens........lucky fer me I was on the ground.


Ghost ?


BIG GRIN
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C. Small wall climber.
Nov 1, 2009 - 10:22pm PT
OK, I may need a little guidance with regard to wine selection, and logistical matters, and we'll have to talk about route selection. One that goes right to the tippy top, so we can wave at the gang on the bridge. I may be in Sonoma in February, and could look around for wine then.

ps We may need to discuss the sheep thing.
SteveW

Trad climber
The state of confusion
Nov 2, 2009 - 12:01am PT
I've been lucky here. . .
I've dropped a piece or two, but never the full rack!!!!!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Nov 2, 2009 - 12:08am PT
It isn't about luck...usually! LOL

Anders- when was your last El cap route?
dogtown

Trad climber
JackAssVille, Wyoming
Nov 2, 2009 - 12:40am PT
Ricky;
Man, I have bubbled some sh#t over the years. But never the whole rack, Ever! The worst I ever did I think, was cut the water loose by accident. But the next day it rained like a bad smell so it worked out! Thank God for that.

Dogtown.
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C. Small wall climber.
Nov 2, 2009 - 12:37pm PT
Steve raises a good point, which is that I've never gotten more than about a third of the way up El Cap. That was some time ago. I've done some reasonably large things elsewhere in the meantime, and would still like to finally get up the Captain. Hopefully improved knowledge, techniques and equipment would more or less balance out other factors. Pete is only a few years younger, and Ottawa Doug almost the same age. Maybe the three of us could team up...
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