Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 17, 2009 - 08:17am PT
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I don't recall the first pitch being that runout. One bolt to start and two in the groove. I sure hope somebody has replaced those rusty old suckers!
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deschamps
Trad climber
Out and about
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Jan 17, 2009 - 09:37am PT
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Nope, I am not DDC. There are two Deschamps living in Tucson (though Dave just moved to the east coast).
The handcrack is the fourth pitch for sure. Maybe the retro-bolting you are thinking off is on the first pitch of Be all end all? That got some bolts added to it with the FA's permission. Be all end all is excellent.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 17, 2009 - 10:34am PT
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Sorry for the name confusion and you are right about the fourth pitch. I forgot about the short second pitch. How did you do the last pitch? Has anyone added a bolt to avoid the aid finish on the last pitch slabs?
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rick d
climber
tucson, az
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Jan 17, 2009 - 01:45pm PT
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"be all end all" is a pile. I did it with the original des champs (not one word like the later). first pitch had been bolted for a long time.
"pissums" had 3 bolts on first pitch, 1 on second, the broken one on the third (and the death block ehhhhhh), and the exit pitches- the aid 2 bolts, the free one bolt. Frankly, the 4th pitch is the best thing about pissgums- I've got "girl size" hands and locked in and thought it was 5.10.
What about Peter's (Croft's) route (right of Be All) or Schneider's thing right of Pissgums?
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 17, 2009 - 07:21pm PT
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The Peters, Croft and Noebels, did the line out right and there is a section of 5.12a if I recall correctly on the second pitch near a bolt. The climbing looks like fun otherwise with plenty of features.
I don't know much about Shipoopi's line except that it is hard and was chopped at one point much to Steve's horror! Very cool sweep of stone!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 29, 2009 - 09:05pm PT
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A teaser from the second ascent of Cap'm Pissgums. Hard right from the outset!
Paul Davidson took this one.
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MattB
Trad climber
Tucson
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Aug 13, 2009 - 11:46am PT
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Nice photo of the start of Pissgums, Steve... I remember having to do a full body stem to get started (both feet to the left, both hands to the right), staring down into the boulder-abyss. Sweet climb with three distinct cruxes.
BTW- After sweating/cursing/shaking/avoiding vomiting on the handcrack, I was looking for a show from my 2nd... and he just CHIMNEYED it, facing North(left side in), like it was a 5.7.
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deschamps
Trad climber
Out and about
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Aug 13, 2009 - 02:47pm PT
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The Croft route is 12a? Anyone have more beta on it? Where is the bolt line?
I met Croft at the bottom of the Hulk last summer but he didn't remember much about his route.
Eric
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Aug 13, 2009 - 02:55pm PT
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But where's the chalkbag?.....
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 29, 2009 - 09:02am PT
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Rainy day Bump!!!
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Swank
Trad climber
Phx AZ
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Aug 31, 2009 - 10:41am PT
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Great climb! Did this w/ Jim Waugh one weekend, and he only brought one larger Cam for the second pitch. He 'let' me lead it, and I still get sweaty palms over it. It was a hot day, and almost slid out 30 ft above the one cam. Most sandbag 5.9 pitch I've ever seen.
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drljefe
climber
Old Pueblo, AZ
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Jan 11, 2010 - 09:07am PT
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BUMP!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 12, 2010 - 06:28pm PT
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Chalkbag's in the rumble seat. Ya wanna snort?!?
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Jan 13, 2010 - 02:32am PT
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Great thread!
Steve, a little birdy told me you were the man out there...BITD?
Nice work. Can't beat FA shots.
What a place......
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jan 13, 2010 - 06:59am PT
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Then stop off at pop's and dig some jugs.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 13, 2010 - 07:14am PT
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Sandbag??? No 5.10 move anywhere on that pitch... 5.8 move neither! LOL
Having this place all to ourselves, BITD was dreamy to say the least! Wandering around looking for 5.10's and psyching up for the grand lines. Great memories!
The Whisperin' Squash[singing]:
Back from the Shadows again!
Out where an In-jun's your friend!
Where the veg'tables are green,
And you can pee into the stream!
Yes, we're back from the Shadows again!
Reprise (Whisperin' with others):
We're goin' back to the Shadows again !
Out where an Indian's your friend!
Where the vegetables are green,
And you can pee right into the stream!
(And that's important!)
We're back from the Shadows again
A favorite ditty whilst trapsing about the place...LOL
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drljefe
climber
Old Pueblo, AZ
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Jan 13, 2010 - 08:19am PT
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WOW!!! ^^^^^^^
That place is heavy.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 13, 2010 - 08:34am PT
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Nice shots, Steel!
Combining the second and third could be the best single pitch in the whole area!
Whoa, check out the colors! Could be the most popular phrase heard in the Dragoons...LOL
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quietpartner
Trad climber
Moantannah
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Jan 13, 2010 - 08:47am PT
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Back to the first pic of the TR, it looks like another Bigfoot sighting...above and right of the guy. Bigfoot's pulling himself outta the crack inch by inch....he looks a little squeezed. ;-)
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