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philo
Trad climber
boulder, co.
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Jan 12, 2009 - 12:24pm PT
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Wow that was fantastic!
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Jan 12, 2009 - 12:27pm PT
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Here ya go Russ... can't edit the posts above anymore.
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drljefe
climber
Toostoned, AZ
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Jan 12, 2009 - 01:46pm PT
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This thread rules!!!
SG said:
"If you are open to the perception, spirits are abundant here and I tend to view the wind as a mildly malevolent manifestation of their whim."
True, true.
The Stronghold is heavy, man.
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Jan 12, 2009 - 01:56pm PT
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Awesome stuff. That shot of the Rockfellows looks like the Needles transported to the desert.
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adrian korosec
climber
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Jan 12, 2009 - 11:43pm PT
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The East Stronghold does compare to the Needles of California.
I've just climbed End Game in the Rockfellow Group and Willy Javelina in Mendoza Canyon of the Coyote Mtns near Kitt Peak.
Most of my experience has been in Eldorado Canyon, the Flatirons, Colorado Plateau, Needles of South Dakota, and Devil's Lake, but now I look so forward to exploring the Southern Arizona backcountry and all it has to offer.
If any of ya'll are coming out, let me know and we'll get out there.
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east side underground
Trad climber
Hilton crk,ca
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Jan 13, 2009 - 11:02am PT
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Mangus coloradas lives! he has been hanging out with God in his jeep cherokee, cleaning his gun ,looking for elk on the horizon weschrist- hanging w/ fowler and Ayers! the MURRYS!!!
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rick d
climber
tucson, az
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Jan 13, 2009 - 12:07pm PT
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adrian-
you consider "end game" and "wily havelina" as back country?
next time try "poetry in motion" or anything else in Mendoza if you want that feel. Schlep up to the Bullet and do a route there.
I've climbed a bunch in the stronghold, but the rock quality is 6.5/10 on a 10/10 for needles so cal rating system.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 13, 2009 - 11:49pm PT
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Have you done the Great Gig in the Sky?
Definitely not the Needles...LOL
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kinnikinik
Trad climber
b.c.c
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Jan 15, 2009 - 02:18am PT
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Did abber a while ago, very good route. but what' up with capt'n pissgum's. The route has always terrified me. Last visit to the stronghold it was very bolted?
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ontheedgeandscaredtodeath
Trad climber
San Francisco, Ca
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Jan 15, 2009 - 02:29am PT
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Pissgums is burly! Such classic AZ that it's rated 5.10+
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MisterE
Trad climber
Raising Arizona
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Jan 15, 2009 - 02:37am PT
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It's a Brave New World
And I cut my teeth at Index, WA
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 15, 2009 - 10:37am PT
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More information on Pissgums having extra bolts added to it please. Chop! Chop!
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deschamps
Trad climber
Out and about
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Jan 15, 2009 - 11:30am PT
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I did Pissgums last year. I don't know what the original bolt count on it was but here is where it stands as of last year:
Pitch 1: 3 or 4ish bolts
Pitch 2: No bolts
Pitch 3: No bolts
Pitch 4 (the overhanging handcrack): No bolts
Pitch 5: Maybe 1 bolt?
Pitch 6: 1 or 2 bolts
I can't remember at all if the belays were bolted. There was an old bolt on the belay after Pitch 3, but it snapped under my partner's body weight.
Anyone climbed it this season?
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 15, 2009 - 11:44am PT
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Hey Dave- Sounds like I can leave the chisel in the holster.
The hand crack is pitch #3 if I recall correctly, I got the odds.
What's this about 5.10+ on the first pitch?!?
What are your obscure OW recommendations?
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ontheedgeandscaredtodeath
Trad climber
San Francisco, Ca
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Jan 15, 2009 - 12:51pm PT
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SG, Rick D told me deschamps is not DDC.
I had my azz handed to me on the crux of CP.
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kinnikinik
Trad climber
b.c.c
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Jan 15, 2009 - 03:22pm PT
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I must be mistaken, two years ago I was sure pissgums was suddenly sport bolted. Was it already chopped? or is there a new bolt line in the same groove system as the origonal runout stem problem?
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 17, 2009 - 11:17am PT
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I don't recall the first pitch being that runout. One bolt to start and two in the groove. I sure hope somebody has replaced those rusty old suckers!
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deschamps
Trad climber
Out and about
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Jan 17, 2009 - 12:37pm PT
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Nope, I am not DDC. There are two Deschamps living in Tucson (though Dave just moved to the east coast).
The handcrack is the fourth pitch for sure. Maybe the retro-bolting you are thinking off is on the first pitch of Be all end all? That got some bolts added to it with the FA's permission. Be all end all is excellent.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 17, 2009 - 01:34pm PT
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Sorry for the name confusion and you are right about the fourth pitch. I forgot about the short second pitch. How did you do the last pitch? Has anyone added a bolt to avoid the aid finish on the last pitch slabs?
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rick d
climber
tucson, az
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Jan 17, 2009 - 04:45pm PT
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"be all end all" is a pile. I did it with the original des champs (not one word like the later). first pitch had been bolted for a long time.
"pissums" had 3 bolts on first pitch, 1 on second, the broken one on the third (and the death block ehhhhhh), and the exit pitches- the aid 2 bolts, the free one bolt. Frankly, the 4th pitch is the best thing about pissgums- I've got "girl size" hands and locked in and thought it was 5.10.
What about Peter's (Croft's) route (right of Be All) or Schneider's thing right of Pissgums?
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