Abracadaver - FA Pics and Story

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Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 24, 2007 - 11:59am PT
As a crack route, Abracadaver is the gem of the Cochise Stronghold in AZ. I couldn't find a formation shot of the Rockfellows but I'm sure somebody can post one.

Starting the first pitch.


Eyeballing the wideness above.


Wide crack man Dave Baker leading the second pitch to his highpoint from an earlier attempt.


Mike McEwen leading the ultra classic third pitch. All the way up this lead the vultures were constantly hovering nearby acting as straight men for our macabre sense of humor, hence the name, Abracadaver! Those of you that have done this pitch should be able to appreciate his skill in managing this onsight with just three pieces of protection and the hungry harbingers nearby!


Following Mike's brilliant lead. Note the huge lichen flakes. There used to be a bowling ball case sized loose block where the crack finally pinches down to deal with on the sharp end. These days there is a nice triangular bucket to pull out of the thinning layback.

Paul Davidson in a state of frightful pumpage tried to latch onto the unsavory beast and ended up falling the entire length of the layback past the hanging belay! We swapped ends and I got well into the lead before noticing that I was tied into my leg loops alone!
Fig also took a long fall on this pitch, struck a shelf on the flake edge and completely tore one of his ankles apart. His three point descent of the approach gully was epic and the ankle took about half a year to heal. The worst part of the ordeal by his account, was the seasickness induced by neophyte driving on the way back to town!


Leading the fourth pitch in retro attire. What you can't see are the pink spots on my flimsy pants from grinding my knees due to poor OW technique back then.


For all you footware fetish folks out there. This is the only photo I have showing my all-time favorite pair of shoes, the Hawkins Masters.

Mike responding to being razzed about his bolting prowess. Despite his construction background, Mike was famous for placing poor bolts and neither Dave nor I had any intention of falling once he yelled down that a bolt belay was in order!

Probably the most gifted climber in Tucson, Mike defined local boldness and climbed on a tiny rack of less than ten pieces! He liked to mark his biners by drilling a shallow hole and filling it with red paint. The trouble was he chose to drill right at the failure point on the radius, further accentuating the old school maxim that the leader must not fall! Mike made quite an impression in Yosemite while he was active in the 70's, his talent being apparent to anyone watching him climb.



Heading down from the Friendly Flake after a perfect climbing day........
Don't let go

Trad climber
Yorba Linda, CA
Feb 24, 2007 - 12:08pm PT
Very cool. Old school guys had big huevos.
Jaybro

Social climber
The West
Feb 24, 2007 - 12:30pm PT
Thanks Steve! Great photos and history of a spectacularly cool route.


That was the first route I climbed in the Stronghold. Climbed it with Chris Raypole -we took no photos and some of the memories are up in smoke.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
one pass away from the big ditch
Feb 24, 2007 - 01:03pm PT
That's one of those lines after checking a guidebook where I thought... 'man, wish I could get down there and do that line' ... but not having the skill or cajones to pull it off I deftly maneuvered to not make the "long" drive from So Cal. Now that I'm in Nor Cal, things have changed, it's DEFINITELY too far to drive for now. :)

killer TR, thx
crunch

Social climber
CO
Feb 24, 2007 - 01:15pm PT
Fantastic pictures. Thanks.

Here's a picture of the Rockfellow group. I think Abracadaver itself is out of sight on the left (umm, sorry...), in the shade, but the pic gives a nice sense of this proud formation.

Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 24, 2007 - 01:19pm PT
That's definitely the End Pinnacle in the foreground with Abra and Knead Me, the two striking parallel crack systems, hidden around to the left.

Apparently, Wizards of Rock has a write up of Abra and perhaps a photo.

Abra, as all climbs, waits patiently, and is getting nothing but easier as the pro options improve.
Off White

climber
Tenino, WA
Feb 24, 2007 - 03:47pm PT


Here's the shot you want, lifted from Avitripp over on cascadeclimbers.com
J. Werlin

climber
Cedaredge
Feb 24, 2007 - 05:08pm PT
Enjoyed this historical post of a super-classic route very much. Thanks for making the effort to post.
WBraun

climber
Feb 24, 2007 - 05:12pm PT
"Fig also took a long fall on this pitch, struck a shelf on the flake edge and completely tore one of his ankles apart."

Yikes Steve, that sounds nasty. Cool looking climb that Abracadaver .
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 24, 2007 - 05:27pm PT
Thanks for the perfect Rockfellow Domes photo, Off. Sure makes me want to be there right now, on a warm windless day of course.

Werner, Fig's injury was a freak thing in that he happened to be falling close enough in to strike a sloping area on the flake edge that you could barely rest on otherwise. I have all the luck when it come to big fish on the line for this route!
Larry

Trad climber
Bisbee
Feb 24, 2007 - 05:55pm PT
We waited out rain squalls in the slot at the top of Friendly Flake. A cool spot.
steelmnkey

climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
Feb 24, 2007 - 06:00pm PT
Don't forget the perfect apres-Abra trip through the bowels of the 'fellows!

WBraun

climber
Feb 24, 2007 - 06:07pm PT
Good classic chimney shot.
Jaybro

Social climber
The West
Feb 24, 2007 - 06:50pm PT
Cool shoes, too!


write up but no photo, in Wizards.
Mimi

climber
Feb 24, 2007 - 06:55pm PT
Werner, that chimney above is part of what's called the Inner Passage. An unroped traverse with a bit of sideways chimneying.

Fun to do during Bean Fests. People have been in both directions in ALL states of mind.
Roger Breedlove

climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
Feb 24, 2007 - 07:47pm PT
Nice pictures and write-up, Steve.

For both you and Werner, is 'Fig' Mike Breidenbach, the 'Fig' I knew and climbed with a few times in the Valley?
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Feb 24, 2007 - 08:22pm PT
sunglasses are, of course, necessary
steelmnkey

climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
Feb 24, 2007 - 08:37pm PT
I never noticed those sunglasses Ed, but that is a crackup...that's George Bell Jr. smiling for the camera.

For anyone that hasn't given it a go, the Inner Passages is pretty cool. Just don't relax at the wrong time or you might get stuck!
WBraun

climber
Feb 24, 2007 - 08:38pm PT
Roger

Steve is talking about a different Fig not Mike Breidenbach.
chollapete

Trad climber
tucson, az
Feb 24, 2007 - 08:49pm PT
Speaking of Cochise Stronghold, the following arrived in my inbox this week:


Hear Ye All!

I, the newly appointed Bean Master declare April the 28th the 255th semi-annual Bean Fest!

Fellow brothers and sisters of the gilded few of the heights come join in a day of high adventure and a night into the depths of debauchery. The site of the infamous activities will be the fabled east side of the Stronghold of the fearsome Apache warrior Cochise. For those of competitive nature there will be a test of skills on boulders and top-ropes, one arm hanging, rope jousting and other daring exploits. Strange, exotic, expensive prizes will be awarded to the brave souls that finish at the front of the pack.

For the kind folks that want to pitch in to make this a Bean Fest of all Bean Fests feel free to summon me for your assistance. We'll need food and drink. Firewood. If you have an artistic talent a t-shirt design would be highly coveted. Those that contribute will be truly gifted by the spirits that dwell in the Stronghold. They are known to love and protect climbers.

Pass this important message around to our fellow climbers. All must know about the most important of events to be occurring soon!

Bean Master Fred
520-481-6306
huecool@msn.com
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 24, 2007 - 10:30pm PT
Roger- definitely not the same Fig. Ricky did the Mouth to Perhaps with your Fig. For easy identification the Big Fig looks just this fellow below bouldering in the Stronghold.



The Inner Passage is the great cleft that separates the main Rockfellow Dome from Chay Desa Tay (big windy rock in Apache) and the End Pinnacle. The passage is a technical sideways chimney for only a short section of its length with lots of magically flat walking amidst soaring walls.

An amazing route called Devoid chimneys up from one of the flat spots toward the north end. A full pitch of foot butt leads to a bolt belay where the chimney opens and belljars down again before becoming too wide. It is the only foot shoulder chimney in my experience and leads to a commitment to the Rockfellow side and sporadic protection until the other wall finally lobes out and comes back into reach. This photo shows the point of reconnection during the FA. This was the first major summit (via As The Wind Cries)in the Rockfellow Domes climbed without the involvement of Dave Baker. Fig and I returned to repeat Devoid with Dave to complete his Stronghold sweep.

steelmnkey

climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
Feb 25, 2007 - 06:21pm PT
A topo I did of the Abra side of the Rockfellows a few years ago...


Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 25, 2007 - 06:35pm PT
Nice post SM. Have you done any guidebook illustration or is it mostly a creative outlet? Artwork is always appreciated. My father and sister are both career artists and art teachers. I am the oddball in my family, strangely enough. LOL
steelmnkey

climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
Feb 25, 2007 - 06:49pm PT
Steve, I did the second edition of Phoenix Rock, which I inherited from Jim W. Done a few other things here and there...

Here's another one I did a long time back for Cochise...
L

climber
The City of Lost Angels
Feb 25, 2007 - 06:58pm PT
Steve--Really nice historical TR and the photos are awesome. Loved the personality aspects of your climbing partners.


Steelmnkey--Two friends of mine did that "easy-looking" 5.6 route What's My Line last year.

In high winds.

They were literally crying as they kissed the ground afterwards, never expecting to have lived through the adventure.
steelmnkey

climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
Feb 26, 2007 - 05:25am PT
Hey L - I know exactly what your friends were experiencing. The first time I ever hiked up to do WML, after scrambling up to the start, we didn't go up because of high wind. I think it tends to come through that pass anyway, but when it's really blowing, it's like being in a wind tunnel. Glad they were okay. I last did WML on Christmas Day, 2005 with my wife (her first visit to the Stronghold). It was a gorgeous, sunny day for us to be virtually alone with such an incredible place.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 26, 2007 - 08:57am PT
Climbing was demanding and dangerous enough back in the day that most of the active participants were what I like to call indelibles, outsized personalities. Arizona climbing history is not widely known but chocked full of such people. If you are interested check out Climbaz.com.

The wind is everything in the Stronghold with respect to ones climbing experience. High winds means high drama every time. If you are open to the perception, spirits are abundant here and I tend to view the wind as a mildly malevolent manifestation of their whim. A dead calm day up in the saddle is almost spooky!

Have you ever seen so many giant holds as the ones covering What's My Line? Rappel Rock on Mt. Lemmon comes close. Too bad you can't easily reach them or I would have soloed WML dozens of times at 5.6!

SM- I haven't climbed in Phoenix in ages or seen your guide. Looks like a quality effort if your artwork is any indication!

More pics and stories soon.
Zander

Trad climber
Berkeley
Feb 26, 2007 - 08:20pm PT
Steve,
Thanks for the Tr and pics. Great stuff. I hope to go down there sometime.
Zander
Mimi

climber
Feb 26, 2007 - 11:25pm PT
That wind is for real. When Off White and I did Days of Future Passed, the wind was howling as we were topping out. I got the final face pitch and thought I'd get blown off. Some of those Bean Festers were shooting bottle rockets at me but I somehow didn't seem to notice.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 3, 2007 - 09:38am PT
All this this talk of wind, domes and sunshine makes me homesick for the desert. As Jimi would say, "Rainy day, dream away. Ain't no use in gettin' uptight, just let it groove its own way. Lay back and dream on a rainy day." The brother should know those Seattle blues well.......
Levy

Big Wall climber
So Cal
Nov 2, 2008 - 05:42pm PT
bump for a good thread
ontheedgeandscaredtodeath

Trad climber
San Francisco, Ca
Nov 2, 2008 - 06:21pm PT
Yeah, this is a good one. The stronghold is one of those sorta special places....
MisterE

Trad climber
My Inner Nut
Nov 2, 2008 - 06:36pm PT
Nice retro-report Steve! Much appreciated, as usual.

Bean-fest is this weekend, down there.

I have stared at that beast...and shuddered.

Hope you got some entertainment from the "Lucky" thread.

Respectfully, Erik



Phantom Fugitive

Trad climber
Misery
Nov 2, 2008 - 06:42pm PT
Steve- missed this the first time around. Thanks MUCHO!

Abra was a major achievement for me when I did it- something I built up to by working through the grades in the stronghold, scaring myself silly- and only approached the base when I really felt ready. This was '96 I think?

Anyways, I arrive at the base and the first thing I see is a rusty old button-head with an attached rusty hanger right at the base of the wall. Gulp. I look at my buddy and he says "I guess that wind blows off more than just climbers". We tied in anyways.

An ultra classic in a mysterious, amazing place.

MisterE

Trad climber
My Inner Nut
Nov 2, 2008 - 06:45pm PT
How in the hell do you transition from a widening foot-shoulder chimney. Jeebus...
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 11, 2009 - 12:31pm PT
The invitation awaits the curious.....

I just found this classic Dave Baker shot of Gary Hervert leading the second ascent of the route in Bob Kerry's 97 Backcountry guide.



Rich Thompson is belaying and the loose, bowling ball bag sized block is visible at the end of the petering fingertip layback.
Russ Walling

Social climber
Upper Fupa, North Dakota
Jan 11, 2009 - 03:14pm PT
BUMP


so Steelmonkey can get his topo back up. Right now the link is to a pet supply domain camping outfit.

Cool Steve!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 12, 2009 - 08:40am PT
When the weather is a little warmer, you'll love it! It's a way of life!
east side underground

Trad climber
Hilton crk,ca
Jan 12, 2009 - 08:53am PT
once again murry "you are the man!" love the photos what a amazing place!
east side underground

Trad climber
Hilton crk,ca
Jan 12, 2009 - 08:53am PT
once again murry "you are the man!" love the photos what a amazing place!
Jeremy

Social climber
Hanging with your mom...
Jan 12, 2009 - 08:53am PT
BIG OLD BUMP!!!!!!!!!!!

AWESOME!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
weschrist

Gym climber
left sac
Jan 12, 2009 - 09:11am PT
I gotta get back down there! Got a tour from a friend of Fowler... Ayers? End Game, Forest something, a couple other super nice ones, the slot next to Inner Passage by mistake, Inner Passage, and all the craggin.

One of my favorite spots for sure. Some sick bouldering on the E side if you like mantling huge smooth eggs.
philo

Trad climber
boulder, co.
Jan 12, 2009 - 09:24am PT
Wow that was fantastic!
steelmnkey

climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
Jan 12, 2009 - 09:27am PT
Here ya go Russ... can't edit the posts above anymore.


weschrist

Gym climber
left sac
Jan 12, 2009 - 10:22am PT
How is Magnus whatever, anyway?
drljefe

climber
Toostoned, AZ
Jan 12, 2009 - 10:46am PT
This thread rules!!!
SG said:
"If you are open to the perception, spirits are abundant here and I tend to view the wind as a mildly malevolent manifestation of their whim."
True, true.
The Stronghold is heavy, man.
weschrist

Gym climber
left sac
Jan 12, 2009 - 10:53am PT
The ones that come out when water flows will blow your mind, frizzle fry style, if you aren't careful.

Watching the snow fall there is truly amazing.
Fat Dad

Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
Jan 12, 2009 - 10:56am PT
Awesome stuff. That shot of the Rockfellows looks like the Needles transported to the desert.
adrian korosec

climber
Jan 12, 2009 - 08:43pm PT
The East Stronghold does compare to the Needles of California.

I've just climbed End Game in the Rockfellow Group and Willy Javelina in Mendoza Canyon of the Coyote Mtns near Kitt Peak.

Most of my experience has been in Eldorado Canyon, the Flatirons, Colorado Plateau, Needles of South Dakota, and Devil's Lake, but now I look so forward to exploring the Southern Arizona backcountry and all it has to offer.

If any of ya'll are coming out, let me know and we'll get out there.
east side underground

Trad climber
Hilton crk,ca
Jan 13, 2009 - 08:02am PT
Mangus coloradas lives! he has been hanging out with God in his jeep cherokee, cleaning his gun ,looking for elk on the horizon weschrist- hanging w/ fowler and Ayers! the MURRYS!!!
rick d

climber
tucson, az
Jan 13, 2009 - 09:07am PT
adrian-

you consider "end game" and "wily havelina" as back country?

next time try "poetry in motion" or anything else in Mendoza if you want that feel. Schlep up to the Bullet and do a route there.

I've climbed a bunch in the stronghold, but the rock quality is 6.5/10 on a 10/10 for needles so cal rating system.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 13, 2009 - 08:49pm PT
Have you done the Great Gig in the Sky?

Definitely not the Needles...LOL
kinnikinik

Trad climber
b.c.c
Jan 14, 2009 - 11:18pm PT
Did abber a while ago, very good route. but what' up with capt'n pissgum's. The route has always terrified me. Last visit to the stronghold it was very bolted?
ontheedgeandscaredtodeath

Trad climber
San Francisco, Ca
Jan 14, 2009 - 11:29pm PT
Pissgums is burly! Such classic AZ that it's rated 5.10+

MisterE

Trad climber
Raising Arizona
Jan 14, 2009 - 11:37pm PT
It's a Brave New World

And I cut my teeth at Index, WA
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 15, 2009 - 07:37am PT
More information on Pissgums having extra bolts added to it please. Chop! Chop!
deschamps

Trad climber
Out and about
Jan 15, 2009 - 08:30am PT
I did Pissgums last year. I don't know what the original bolt count on it was but here is where it stands as of last year:

Pitch 1: 3 or 4ish bolts
Pitch 2: No bolts
Pitch 3: No bolts
Pitch 4 (the overhanging handcrack): No bolts
Pitch 5: Maybe 1 bolt?
Pitch 6: 1 or 2 bolts

I can't remember at all if the belays were bolted. There was an old bolt on the belay after Pitch 3, but it snapped under my partner's body weight.

Anyone climbed it this season?
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 15, 2009 - 08:44am PT
Hey Dave- Sounds like I can leave the chisel in the holster.
The hand crack is pitch #3 if I recall correctly, I got the odds.

What's this about 5.10+ on the first pitch?!?

What are your obscure OW recommendations?
ontheedgeandscaredtodeath

Trad climber
San Francisco, Ca
Jan 15, 2009 - 09:51am PT
SG, Rick D told me deschamps is not DDC.

I had my azz handed to me on the crux of CP.
kinnikinik

Trad climber
b.c.c
Jan 15, 2009 - 12:22pm PT
I must be mistaken, two years ago I was sure pissgums was suddenly sport bolted. Was it already chopped? or is there a new bolt line in the same groove system as the origonal runout stem problem?
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 17, 2009 - 08:17am PT
I don't recall the first pitch being that runout. One bolt to start and two in the groove. I sure hope somebody has replaced those rusty old suckers!
deschamps

Trad climber
Out and about
Jan 17, 2009 - 09:37am PT
Nope, I am not DDC. There are two Deschamps living in Tucson (though Dave just moved to the east coast).

The handcrack is the fourth pitch for sure. Maybe the retro-bolting you are thinking off is on the first pitch of Be all end all? That got some bolts added to it with the FA's permission. Be all end all is excellent.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 17, 2009 - 10:34am PT
Sorry for the name confusion and you are right about the fourth pitch. I forgot about the short second pitch. How did you do the last pitch? Has anyone added a bolt to avoid the aid finish on the last pitch slabs?
rick d

climber
tucson, az
Jan 17, 2009 - 01:45pm PT
"be all end all" is a pile. I did it with the original des champs (not one word like the later). first pitch had been bolted for a long time.

"pissums" had 3 bolts on first pitch, 1 on second, the broken one on the third (and the death block ehhhhhh), and the exit pitches- the aid 2 bolts, the free one bolt. Frankly, the 4th pitch is the best thing about pissgums- I've got "girl size" hands and locked in and thought it was 5.10.


What about Peter's (Croft's) route (right of Be All) or Schneider's thing right of Pissgums?
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 17, 2009 - 07:21pm PT
The Peters, Croft and Noebels, did the line out right and there is a section of 5.12a if I recall correctly on the second pitch near a bolt. The climbing looks like fun otherwise with plenty of features.

I don't know much about Shipoopi's line except that it is hard and was chopped at one point much to Steve's horror! Very cool sweep of stone!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 29, 2009 - 09:05pm PT
A teaser from the second ascent of Cap'm Pissgums. Hard right from the outset!


Paul Davidson took this one.
MattB

Trad climber
Tucson
Aug 13, 2009 - 11:46am PT
Nice photo of the start of Pissgums, Steve... I remember having to do a full body stem to get started (both feet to the left, both hands to the right), staring down into the boulder-abyss. Sweet climb with three distinct cruxes.

BTW- After sweating/cursing/shaking/avoiding vomiting on the handcrack, I was looking for a show from my 2nd... and he just CHIMNEYED it, facing North(left side in), like it was a 5.7.
deschamps

Trad climber
Out and about
Aug 13, 2009 - 02:47pm PT
The Croft route is 12a? Anyone have more beta on it? Where is the bolt line?

I met Croft at the bottom of the Hulk last summer but he didn't remember much about his route.

Eric
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Aug 13, 2009 - 02:55pm PT
But where's the chalkbag?.....
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 29, 2009 - 09:02am PT
Rainy day Bump!!!
Swank

Trad climber
Phx AZ
Aug 31, 2009 - 10:41am PT
Great climb! Did this w/ Jim Waugh one weekend, and he only brought one larger Cam for the second pitch. He 'let' me lead it, and I still get sweaty palms over it. It was a hot day, and almost slid out 30 ft above the one cam. Most sandbag 5.9 pitch I've ever seen.
drljefe

climber
Old Pueblo, AZ
Jan 11, 2010 - 09:07am PT
BUMP!

Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 12, 2010 - 06:28pm PT
Chalkbag's in the rumble seat. Ya wanna snort?!?
survival

Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
Jan 13, 2010 - 02:32am PT
Great thread!
Steve, a little birdy told me you were the man out there...BITD?
Nice work. Can't beat FA shots.
What a place......
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Jan 13, 2010 - 06:59am PT
Then stop off at pop's and dig some jugs.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 13, 2010 - 07:14am PT
Sandbag??? No 5.10 move anywhere on that pitch... 5.8 move neither! LOL

Having this place all to ourselves, BITD was dreamy to say the least! Wandering around looking for 5.10's and psyching up for the grand lines. Great memories!

The Whisperin' Squash[singing]:

Back from the Shadows again!
Out where an In-jun's your friend!
Where the veg'tables are green,
And you can pee into the stream!
Yes, we're back from the Shadows again!

Reprise (Whisperin' with others):

We're goin' back to the Shadows again !
Out where an Indian's your friend!
Where the vegetables are green,
And you can pee right into the stream!
(And that's important!)
We're back from the Shadows again

A favorite ditty whilst trapsing about the place...LOL

steelmnkey

climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
Jan 13, 2010 - 08:13am PT
Friends on the route early December... another friend of mine took the pics.





drljefe

climber
Old Pueblo, AZ
Jan 13, 2010 - 08:19am PT
WOW!!! ^^^^^^^

That place is heavy.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 13, 2010 - 08:34am PT
Nice shots, Steel!

Combining the second and third could be the best single pitch in the whole area!

Whoa, check out the colors! Could be the most popular phrase heard in the Dragoons...LOL
quietpartner

Trad climber
Moantannah
Jan 13, 2010 - 08:47am PT
Back to the first pic of the TR, it looks like another Bigfoot sighting...above and right of the guy. Bigfoot's pulling himself outta the crack inch by inch....he looks a little squeezed. ;-)
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 14, 2010 - 09:07am PT
Bump for Bigfoots!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 17, 2010 - 12:47pm PT
Even if I can't exactly make out where it is. Must be that dimensional shift thing again! LOL
Pate

Trad climber
Jan 20, 2010 - 05:32pm PT
climbing content bump
Pate

Trad climber
Feb 6, 2010 - 05:47pm PT
Cochise bump.
drljefe

climber
Old Pueblo, AZ
May 14, 2010 - 11:02am PT
bump
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - May 14, 2011 - 06:01pm PT
Killer Photo Bump!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 27, 2012 - 04:51pm PT
Please Sir, may we have some MO!?!
Scott McNamara

Social climber
Tucson, Arizona
Apr 27, 2012 - 05:06pm PT
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/abracadaver/105794076

Blakey

Trad climber
Newcastle UK
Apr 28, 2012 - 04:07pm PT
Oooooh!
Oooooh!
Credit: Blakey

And because it's just so gorgeous

The West Side of the Rockfellows
The West Side of the Rockfellows
Credit: Blakey
wbw

Trad climber
'cross the great divide
Apr 28, 2012 - 06:46pm PT
The Rockfellows are the most impressive crags at one of the coolest areas, anywhere. You Southern AZ boys and your escapades back in the day have always been inspiring to me. Your story is a perfect example of why. Gotta do that Abra, but it seems to be closed for birds when Ive been there.
pk_davidson

Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
Feb 5, 2014 - 06:09pm PT
Too long since a good bump on this thread and given the upcoming shindigger at the Oracle Hut...
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Feb 5, 2014 - 06:41pm PT
Thanks PK! Never saw this before. Great stuff Steve, what year was it u guys did the FA? I've said this before but, I really gotta get to Arizona........ The place is just so aesthetic, it blows my brains to bits when I see stuff like this.
PotatoHead

Trad climber
Nunya,ID
Feb 5, 2014 - 07:13pm PT
I had the pleasure of doing this route my first time with Chris Henze during a particularly cold Beanfest...year(Nov 89'??). First time on the route for both of us. I 'lost' the ro-sham-bo and got the first pitch. A combination of pitches 1 and 2. Walked a homemade #6 rigid friend (I got from John Fowler) most of the way up the classic and steep '10a' OW until it went to fists #4 friend size. Chris got the beautiful 11a fingers corner....which was stuffed with bats along most of the way. Thus, turning the pitch from semi-casual nice finger jams to desperate tips laybacking...lol! Up we went. On the last pitch, Chris decided to go right(off route) seeing as it was frigid and getting very late in the day. Look near the top of the formation above the detached flake. A horizontal dike leads right for 60ft or so(w/o pro) to a faint 'crack'. Classic Stronghold 'crack'. Shallow, steep, and crystal ridden. Perfect for pink tri-cams and brass HB's!! He punched it to the summit and declared it no big deal. I followed in desperate horror at his lead. Run-out and technical 5.11 in the groove, err..I mean crack. Rapped in the dark which was a first for both of us off this formation. Not straight forward BITD. Back to camp shivering, to a hero's welcome, tequila shots, and a forehead full-o-beans!!! Apparently they started the party w/o us...lol. Great post!! -MikeW
east side underground

climber
Hilton crk,ca
Feb 5, 2014 - 07:39pm PT
john Fowler..."BLACK MAGNUSS"....hear , hear
Credit: east side underground
PotatoHead

Trad climber
Nunya,ID
Feb 5, 2014 - 08:10pm PT
Hells yeah...hear hear!! Far left...Jay Laden?? Hey Paul...member me
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 21, 2014 - 09:45am PT
California Sex God on the right in bronze!

Come and hear the stories behind the classic routes like Abra in Tucson March 15 & 16 when the Granitica Festival comes to town.

http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/2324980/Granitica-Festival-2014-Cochise-Stronghold-History-3-15-16

If you love the Stronghold then don't miss this gathering!
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