Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 29, 2004 - 01:39am PT
|
OK, let me state that I am not comfortable in chimneys, yet. So I've been on a search of easy chimneys to get comfortable in... this strategy doesn't seem to be working. Today I wussed out of climbing The Remnant, Right Side, 5.7, Reed's Pinnacle Area FA 1960 by Wally Reed and Herb Swedlund. There is no pro for 20 to 30 feet, but it does seem to be "only 5.7", I just couldn't start.
Aside from some beta from Eric (who essentially said: "just do it dude!") I'd be happy to be the target of your slings and arrows directed at my outrageous fortune. And, of course, any beta you all have, or even advice on a list of Valley chimney pitches to make a man out of me (or at least a half decent chimney climber).
There, that wasn't so bad...
|
|
rbreedlove
Trad climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
|
|
|
Mar 29, 2004 - 09:45am PT
|
The text book pictures on how to climb chimmneys are all correct. However with out repetition, when you are using so much of your body to stay secure, it is hard to figure out what you can move.
My two cents: take the time to set up a top rope on as many chimmnys as you can find and have the time for. You can even self belay. Then do the same pitch many times, until it is easy and secure. Note every slip. (On a lead, a slip may not spit you out but it may be too scary.) On practice climbs, try not to use positive holds. (These are part of every chimmney climb, but the task should be focused on counter pressure.)
RMB
|
|
Matt
Trad climber
SF Bay Area
|
|
|
Mar 29, 2004 - 12:01pm PT
|
ed-
i agree w/ roger, learn the stuff on TR, just to get some quick mileage in. w/ a little technique in your hip pocket, chimneying can become your favorite type of climbing. try to stop and relax in the middle of each move. you will find that you don't always have to work very hard.
|
|
Ben Wah
Social climber
|
|
|
Mar 29, 2004 - 02:27pm PT
|
Church Bowl Chimney
Church Bowl Terrace
Tweedle Dee
The Buttocks
Reed's, Left Side (1st pitch)
Moby Dick Left...
These are all easier than The Remnant.
|
|
Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
|
|
|
Mar 29, 2004 - 06:15pm PT
|
I did the Remnant Right Side as part of an
"all chimney weekend" in spring 1996. See my trip report:
http://www.stanford.edu/~clint/rep/964ychim.txt
Knee pads and cotton pants help.
I agree with the other posts that you should follow before
you lead, so you can acquire the proper technique and learn
to relax before getting gripped on lead.
Chimneys can be quite hard in the 5.7-5.8 range.
So my advice would be to start at 5.4. The chimney
left of Sherrie's Crack looks like a pretty friendly width.
Have fun,
Clint
|
|
poop*ghost
Trad climber
Berkeley
|
|
|
Mar 29, 2004 - 07:14pm PT
|
Yeah, having TR'ed 3rd pitch of Reed's Direct and Bongs Away Center earlier in the, I thought Remnant would be easy.
Without knee pads, I could not move without heinous bone on rock pain.
Slayed Knee Chimneying, no features, vertical.
mucho 5.7 - and Ben Wah and Shaggy soloed it, making me feel verrry un-german.
j.
|
|
Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - May 17, 2004 - 02:32am PT
|
A Valley practice chimney circuit?
I looked for easy chimneys (5.6 or easier) or chimneys which could be approached by leading or scrambling to the top, then rapping down. Another requirement is that the be near by.
Camp 4 Wall
Doggie Diversions p1 5.7 chimney
4/4/04 - possible to top rope this climb by climbing up the backside of the cliff and setting some pro directly above the pitch. Careful about scrambling out on the blocks!
Starts as a wide off width with arm bars, etc. eventually to become a "froggy" chimney high up. If lead there is no pro until high up this pitch. We did three laps on this, both left and right side in.
4/4/04 - Doggie Do 1p 5.10a off width
If you didn't have enough fun on "Doggie Diversions" reset the top rope on this climb. Many wide crack techniques are needed to overcome two cruxes, the first is down low, but arm bars and knee-heel technique, along with using the face for smears, edges and scums can get you to the alcove. Then the next crux kicks your but as you wish your ape index was adjustable (actually you wished you had a big ape index by the time you finish wimpering up this prize). One lap for me, but I was grunting like a mortally wounded animal in the upper part of the climb.
4/4/04 - The Buttocks - p1 5.9 chimney
This can be top roped by climbing up the gully to the right. When we were there (4/4/04) evidence of a violent rockfall was all around us (trees hit looked like they had been run through a chipper). There is a small ledge with some trees which can be used to top rope both "The Buttocks" and "Cheek" (5.10d face, layback). "The Buttocks" chimney is probably not quite 5.9, but once again, if you lead it you won't get any pro in the layback part of the pitch. Tight, and very lichen-ey. One lap each for this very dirty pitch.
Cookie Cliff
4/10/04 The Cookie Left, p1, 5.9
Possible to top rope by traversing across a ledge. I had a #5 cam in between a large flake and the cliff proper, and a small cam and a nut with some long slings (10' to 15') to get the rope down to the top of the chimney. Classic back-foot at the bottom, going to left knee in, then to body in and back-knee-heel movement at the top. The top part was easy. Didn't feel like 5.9, but it is probably correct. We did 2 laps on this.
4/10/04 - Elevator Shaft, p1, 5.8
A classic chimney, don't really even need your knee pads for it. We hiked up and around (be careful! spontaneous rock fall occurred above us! and your on a dirty slope above a really steep cliff) and found the top above the first pitch ledge. Dropped down from a rap anchored to an Oak tree, now with a new sling with rings. The belay station is bolted. It is located above a wild chockstone construction which is worrisome to think about too much. From here, pre-set a directional down into the upper corner of the chimney from good gear placements level with the belay (snaking the sling through large holes). Then lower the second down into the corner, clipping this pro, and down climbing to put some directionals at various places in the chimney. The start is on a large flat flake above the start of "Outer Limits". The distance to this flake is somewhere between 130' and 140' so take 2 ropes to rap off the belay anchors when you're done. Belay the second up. A wonderful climb to practice on, very long... we each did 2 laps on this one. Pro looks good, even if sparse in some parts of the climb; don't fall out!
Church Bowl
4/10/04 - Church Bowl Chimney, 1p, 5.6
To quote Don Reid from his guide "physical and potentially humiliating", which it is... a slick chimney with intermittent pro, but it's only 5.6. Since I led this before, it was Gary's lead, and he did great. Just remember that it is a chimney climb and do it that way! Also be careful on lead as there is a lot of loose stuff in the chimney which is easily knocked down. Don't freak out on the first moves, there are two other places where you are chanting the mantra "it's only 5.6".
4/10/04 - Church Bowl Terrace, 1p, 5.8
Once up Church Bowl Chimney use the rap bolts to top rope this delightful 5.8 squeeze flare (not!). This could be led as the crack in the back corner is really good. BUT do it like a chimney, here knee-foot and keep working it, lots of features for hands and occasional feet. Squeezes down at the top, but just keep at it, eventually good rails appear and you're done. Probably doesn't see a lot of traffic. But it is a nice example of this species of chimney.
Swan Slab
4/18/04 - Swan Slab Chimney, 1p, 5.5
This is a very forgettable climb. I don't really think it is worth working on at all. A brief chimney, which has to be done without using anything else around to get a few good chimney moves in. Top rope by scrambling around to the left onto the ledge with a large tree at the end of the "Squeeze".
4/18/04 - Swan Slab Squeeze, 1p, 5.7
Same top rope as "Chimney". Couldn't really find the squeeze, or rather, I was too large to get into the squeeze. This seemed more like off-width practice then chimney. Also forgettable.
Moby Dick
4/18/04 - Moby Dick Center, 1p. 5.10a
Went up to top rope first Ahab, then Moby Dick Left, but had a terrible day on center (made it up clean though) and a half hearted attempt at Ahab in the occasional drizzle. Decided to bag it for the day as other showed up to use the route (one big-wall soloer, another team for Center).
Serenity Crack Area
5/8/04 - Trial by Fire, 1p, 5.8
Actually trying to avoid anything like a chimney and do something light, so Gary and I cruised up Nut Cracker in the morning in 2.5 hr and ended up going over to do Trial by Fire. My guess is that the rack could be mostly large, and some slings. I would guess we put in #3, #3, #3.5, #4, #4.5, #5, #4.5, #2 for the 120' route. It is low angle, and really feels like 5.8 offwidth. There are some nice "chimney move" sections, and the finish, which is a chimney exit onto the block to the chains. Fun, actually.
The test! 5/16/04 went to Arch Rock and attempted Entrance Exam.
5/16/04 - Entrance Exam, 2p, 5.9
This climb has freaked me out in the past. Today Steve came along with me and Gary. Steve hasn't been out much this year, and hasn't participated in the Chimney Top Rope Circuit. I led the first pitch without too much difficulty. It takes a lot of pro in the big end (again starting with #3 and going to #5). The crux is the exit out around the block, but that was not as strenuous as the other part of the climb. Brought Gary up, who did nicely on it, then it was Steve's turn. Steve did great! especially given that we knocked a lot of sand down on him from the eroding back part of the belay stance. Somehow he managed to tear his palm... but all in all a great outing for him. It took a few minutes before we knew for sure he wasn't going to chuck his cookies. Looking up at the second pitch I decided that I'd be back to do it another day... we bailed, but with the first pitch under our belts, something that wouldn't have been possible back in March!
Reed's Pinnacle
5/16/04 - Remnant, Right Side, 1p, 5.7
Gary's lead (wow!) this was the disappointment that started this whole thing (the chimney top rope circuit). Gary went up without any problem, got gear in high (a #4.5) and then headed for the outer edge. He surmounted this section, which is easily the crux, and continued up getting a few more pieces in, also mostly big. Steve had a bit more difficulty on this because of his lack of practice. I flew up it, no problems at all.
BOTTOM LINE: like anything else, practice makes perfect. While I wouldn't claim to be "perfect" on chimneys, I think I am able to tackle them without the same dread as before. A special thanks to all of you who suggested climbs, Roger, Ben-wah, Clint, Matt and poop*ghost.
Other possible chimneys not done:
Cookie Cliff
Vendetta
p1 5.10a, 5.7 chimney (climb p1 of Infraction, 5.9?)
The Cleft
5.9 (scramble to top of Cookie Cliff and rap down 1p , climb to top)
-
Pat and Jack Pinnacle
Gilligan's Chicken
5.7 (5.4 chimney)
-
Cascade Falls, right
Just Scraping By
5.8 (scramble to top)
This and That Cliff
p2 Agent Orange 5.9 chimney (drop down from the top)
-
Generator Crack 5.10c (how hard is the chimney?)
-
New Diversions Cliff
Chimney for Two
5.6 (scramble to top)
-
Reed's
The Iota 5.4
-
Five and Dime Cliff
The Reception 5.10a (drop from top)
-
Mojo Tooth, Left
between "Subatomic" and "Fluke", a 5.7 chimney?
-
El Cap. sw base
La Cosita, Left 5.9 variation (after doing La Cosita Right)
The Slack, Left 5.8 (after doing Sacherer Crack)
Ahab 5.10b
Moby Dick Left 5.9
both after doing Moby Dick Center
-
Middle Brother Base
Tweedle Dee 5.8 (scramble to top and rap down 1 p)
-
Camp 4 Wall
Cid's Embrace, p1 5.8 (after Lancelot)
-
Royal Arches, p1 5.6 chimney
-
Glacier Point Apron, East
Milk Dud, 5.10a (after Shuttle Madness, 5.9)
|
|
Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 30, 2004 - 03:14pm PT
|
This "bump" is for Kyle... don't have your email!
|
|
Alexey
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
|
|
|
Apr 24, 2009 - 10:28am PT
|
bump,
this is how Wide Wednesdays started? and later blue and red lists of OW?
Ed when you got license plate 5.10OW?
|
|
Brutus of Wyde
climber
Old Climbers' Home, Oakland CA
|
|
|
Apr 24, 2009 - 10:56am PT
|
I recall Remnant Right being pretty mellow.
Not very protected, but pretty mellow. Remnant Left has what looks like a fun 6" left-facing roof crack low down?
Regarding the Right: "Profanity is the best protection you will get in the first half of the climb. Bring doubles of profanity in the #6 to #8 range."
Don't know if a #5 bro will work well there. Maybe try it next friday or saturday if Nurse and I get to the Valley.
Care to join us Ed? might be doing Reed's left as well, which as I recall is fun and mellow 5.9 on the first pitch...
Brutus "don't kneed no gobies to reach for the body armor" of Wyde
|
|
scuffy b
climber
Frigate Matilda
|
|
|
Apr 24, 2009 - 11:30am PT
|
heh, from wtf on the Remnant to wtf on the Gristle in
five easy years.
Thanks for the good times, Ed.
|
|
Brutus of Wyde
climber
Old Climbers' Home, Oakland CA
|
|
|
Apr 24, 2009 - 12:04pm PT
|
It's all still good, and all still "wtf?" to me...
Brutus, still mystified by those 5.4 chimneys
|
|
Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
|
|
|
Apr 24, 2009 - 12:39pm PT
|
We used to climb the right side so we could top rope the left side, but getting up the right side was sketchier than leading the left side, so it was a push. Don't remember there being any pro on the right side . . .
JL
|
|
Eric Beck
Sport climber
Bishop, California
|
|
|
Apr 24, 2009 - 12:52pm PT
|
Back in Berkeley in the 60s we had a discussion on whether a parallel sided chimney could ever be 5.9. Our unanimous decision was no, a parallel sided chimney could not be 5.9.
However, within a week, I found a counterexample. On Shattuck Avenue there was a chimney between a column and the wall, perfect back-foot width covered in very slippery tiles. It took all my strength to stay in one place, let alone move up.
|
|
paul roehl
Boulder climber
california
|
|
|
Apr 24, 2009 - 01:44pm PT
|
Chimneys always seemed confusing with regard to ratings. Take two relatively easy climbs like Church Bowl and the first pitch of Royal Arches. Maybe it's the sustained nature of the moves but C. Bowl seems many times more difficult even though the ratings are the same. I don't remember putting out any real effort getting up R. Arches 1st pitch, but I recall considerable foul language on the way up C. Bowl. Somehow the sustained nature of a chimney should be factored into its numerical rating because that's the real issue.
|
|
Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
|
|
|
Apr 24, 2009 - 02:46pm PT
|
Well, if truth be told, Church Bowl Chimney by now must have had at least 5,000 to 10,000 ascents. It is so old we don’t now when the first ascent was done even. It is really polished now. Some of us unroped people climb it and slide back down, making the polish even more impressive. Because it is an S-chimney, this user-polish causes some peril and requires more core and leg effort to not only climb it but also to be safe in it as your position is rather opened up and a foot slip very easily means a fall. But there are a bunch of chockstones to break it up. I think the other side, the flare is really a cool little flare that people should be working out on more either as a lead or TR from the anchors there.
One of the bits of info I would add is that people often do not routefind in chimneys. They get tunnel vision and try to just gun up in straight lines more or less. In squeezes the neglect going horizontal to get certain heel-toe placements also. Meanwhile, if you routefind in there, you will always outwit the blank sections, get way more rests, climb more easily, have a (more) fun time.
I mean it. I have been watching this in other climbers for more than four decades. For example they get to the bottom of the Great Chimney on Washington Column, get intimidated and try to just go straight up. And have a horrid time. But if you zigzag around in there--- I mean quite a lot---traversing often, diagonaling often, tolerating and loving this evasive approach, the pitch is a gas and really is easy until you get to the little chockstone move at the top. And it is protected sufficiently too if you keep your eyes open and plan stuff.
A fall in a chimney is not something you want to do by the way. They sometimes can be real buzz-saws. But falls in them are really rare as it turns out. I think I can only recall one legitimate leader fall. It was in the hard little chimney out of the Notch on the Salathe Wall, leading up to the top of El Cap Spire. I think it was Steve Arsenault. Maybe tired he missed how tricky its first part is and took a big dump down the thing into that scary goes-forever crack below that bombays out into Excalibur!
Lastly (chiming in with Eric’s theorizing above) I think that a parallel sided chimney very well can be 5.9. It would be unusual though. If it is tremendously wide, smooth, has no rests and chockstones, no protection and is also fairly long, you have a real problem. Another, if it is super slippery and just past 14 inches and goes on for 140 feet with no rests and protection you have another problem. The buildering chimney Eric is talking about is not on Shattuck but the street a block up towards UC and parallel to it, Oxford/Fulton st and near the cross-street Bancroft Way. It's kind of famous and is a glazed tile squeeze about 16-18 feet high that actually many couldn’t climb. Nothing odd about it, no flare, just a bad size and glassine. The chimney is between the columns and the building front-- not visible here and Street View Google.
One of the real cool chimneys that we used to climb all the time is the disturbing concrete S-chimney in the front of Wurster Hall, School of Architecture, UCB. It goes for like 4 stories and is hideously smooth at the bottom. I am not remembering any rests in it btw. I think it is 5.8, maybe more now. You slide down the thing to leave it, which is another issue. Because of all the use over the last 40 years, the first 20 feet are really slippery
|
|
scuffy b
climber
Frigate Matilda
|
|
|
Apr 24, 2009 - 03:05pm PT
|
That Wurster squeeze is some of the smoothest concrete you will ever see.
|
|
scooter
climber
fist clamp
|
|
|
Apr 24, 2009 - 05:30pm PT
|
A little trick that I have found is to put your back on the slabby side of the chimney, if it has one. Also I think I am in the palms-up fingers down position with my hands alot.
Hope that helps. Almost all the long moderate routes in the Valley that I can think of have a chimney component. It helps to practice it so they don't work you. Have fun
Pat
|
|
WBraun
climber
|
|
|
Apr 24, 2009 - 05:41pm PT
|
Peter Haan
Here's a story for you about Steve Arsenault just a few years ago.
We get a call for a broken ankle or some such from Half Dome and Steve Arsenault is the victim. We fly up there looking for him at the base and don't see anyone. Somehow he with the help of his son and partners hobbled back up to the saddle.
We land the chopper and go over to help him into the ship. I had my flight helmet on the whole time so he never really recognized me.
On the flight back to the valley clinic he's sitting right next to me. Upon landing we help him over to the ambulance and he's sitting on the back bumper asking someone else if anyone knows my where-a-bouts in the Valley.
They said he's (me) standing right there (I'm a few feet away back turned).
Hahaha he had no idea I was right beside him the whole time .....
|
|
Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
|
|
|
Apr 25, 2009 - 01:13am PT
|
That is hilarious Wern. How did he break his ankle?
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!