Hardest mantle in the USA?


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Sport climber
Buzzard Point, TN
Feb 22, 2007 - 07:37am PT
mantle wins by attrition on d.com...


Feb 22, 2007 - 08:02am PT
stem gem spanked me. I thought my left shoulder was going to explode while starting that thing. What's it rated?
Roger Breedlove

Cleveland Heights, Ohio
Feb 22, 2007 - 08:09am PT
Hey Pete, John didnít misspell the word. Everyone just misunderstood the question. John wants to talk about heavy metal fashion.

Sport climber
Buzzard Point, TN
Feb 22, 2007 - 08:30am PT
"One person's V6 is another person's V2"-

qflight, you might try the "Uncle Tusi" beta (backwards--bonus points if you riff some bass lines). In a way it's easier than facing forwards. I always think the "slab finish" on SG is the crux, but my slab skillset isn't the solidest....

Mantlin' def. not a lost art in the SE. Usually "the crux"...

the Hooterville World-Guardian
Feb 22, 2007 - 10:05am PT
'EZ's mantle' at black mountain. gotta be a V8 mantle. sit start to it hasn't gone yet i don't think. kk?

no mantlin' in the SE, just a bunch o 'slab dyno's'

Social climber
The West
Feb 22, 2007 - 10:21am PT
426 makes a good point. I think we need East and West division finals. Then an ultimate pushdown in an undiclosed venue in the Midwest featuring a glass mantel structure, combining the features from the other winners. Maybe set between the Lions in front of Chicago's Art Institute.

In my mispent youth I pursued mantels, the slounge fireplace hood, Stem gem Mantel. Thank Gawd, OW came along to take me away from that foolishness.

-a mixed technique wide crack/Mantel is the move into the no hands rest in Trench Warfare. Not as hard as some of those mentioned but hard enough.

Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 22, 2007 - 10:26am PT
Oops...mantle or mantel? Who knows? Our climber usage is not really in the dictionary from what I can tell. We get to make up our own rockspeak...I'm all in favor of letting Russ figuring out the proper spelling. If he isn't up to it, maybe Largo could help us out.

From Merriam Webster's online dictionary thing:

Main Entry: man∑tel
Pronunciation: 'man-t&l
Function: noun
Etymology: Middle English, from Anglo-French, mantle
1 a : a beam, stone, or arch serving as a lintel to support the masonry above a fireplace b : the finish around a fireplace
2 : a shelf above a fireplace

Edit: There's got to be a "Mickey Mantle" somewhere, no?

Sport climber
Venice, Ca
Feb 22, 2007 - 10:31am PT
Bachar had a nasty hard mantel on the back of Stoney Point, where you'd have to get both arms cocked on it and your face plastered right up against the wall. By the Hot Tuna Traverse. Powell has some hideous ones out at Roubidoux, on dimes. Purple Barrel isn't in the league of the really hard ones because you can kick your feet and sort of kip up the thing.

How about the mantel at Suicide Rock above the ledge on The Hernia, 5.12 with an anchor-breaker fall. Hard and worthless.


the Hooterville World-Guardian
Feb 22, 2007 - 10:32am PT
i'm thinking the direct on 'dangerously cheesy' could have a double diggy man.....er....press out. go down your road and take a left when the snow melts mr. B.
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Feb 22, 2007 - 10:42am PT
Jaybro's got a good idea, but I think the venue should be to mantle on The Bean!
Off White

Tenino, WA
Feb 22, 2007 - 11:27am PT
It is somewhat of a dying art, at least among the modern folks unlike us dusty old farts around here. Let me tell you a story...

I have a crag in my yard, old sandstone quarry, with maybe 35 routes on it. Some online friends, a couple from Portland OR dropped in for a visit and to check it out. They're pretty strong sport climbers, 5.12 is no big deal kind of people, logged stacks of hours at Smith, and genuinely sweet and wonderful individuals. So the female half waltzes up this nice 11a without breaking a sweat, snaps through the titular Manly Wham lunge without hesitation, gropes through the blind reachy delicacy crux without pause, and then blows off of the 5.8 mantel at the top because she just doesn't know how to do it! Made me reflect on the virtues of a well rounded education.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Feb 22, 2007 - 11:34am PT
I think most old timers have lost the fire to push the envelope of mantling and have chosen instead to invest heavily in Mantle Insurance. You will see the insured at all the popular crags proudly displaying their policy and actively seeking to expand their personal coverage. Beer guts to some, a spare tire to others, to the insured that precious frontal lobe fulfills the simple promise that comes with every policy.

"Once your belt hits the lip, it's toward success you'll tip."

While not so hard, the 5.10d mantle on Demon's Delight has always been a favorite. You get an elevator ride if that one bucks you off!

Boulder climber
Sick Midget Land
Feb 22, 2007 - 11:34am PT
Bachar, did you ever do 'The Nostrils' mantle on Lion's Head at Stoney just past Turlock? Pretty damn hard, much harder than Stem Jem.

Social climber
The West
Feb 22, 2007 - 11:45am PT
Also, sit down starts seem to lose their allure increasingly after the age of about 40, or so I am told.
can't say

Social climber
Pasadena CA
Feb 22, 2007 - 12:03pm PT
I'm thinking Russ's "Speed of Leather" problem at Josh, but I don't think the mantel is the crux of that rig.

right here, right now
Feb 22, 2007 - 12:09pm PT
Per Russ's earlier post reference to the Sean Curtis collection; man I wish I had some shots of Sean "pushin' down"...

That was his deal to be sure, 'speshly at Woodson.

Social climber
Feb 22, 2007 - 12:49pm PT
There were so many hard Mantels in the Valley. Lots of good mantelers as well (is this how you spell mantelers??)Hard to tell what was the hardest or who was the best though. I do remember Dale was pretty damn good at them. Purple Barrel is more of the one arm mantel while using a little crimper near where you set your palm (or so I remember)type of Mantle. There were many others that you had to c*#k both elbows at the same time. Werner remember that one right behind the rescue site that you have jump for...the mantel is respectable (not super hard) but if you don't stick the jump you can get hurt. Didn't you pop your knee out on it once???

Boulder climber
Back in the mix
Feb 22, 2007 - 04:03pm PT
Pig Pen into the NicoPress exit is a really cool problem.


Trad climber
c-ville, virginia
Feb 22, 2007 - 04:04pm PT
two-pop in boone is a pretty famous hard mantel. boone lends itself to that particular style of climbing.
Brian in SLC

Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
Feb 22, 2007 - 04:38pm PT
Posted this on rockclimbing.com awhile back on a sandbag thread:

"Mantle Variation" at the City of Rocks. On the King on the Throne. Was rated 5.8 in the old Bingham guide.

Newer guide calls it "Rap and Pillage" and it sprouted bolts and is rated 5.12c, or something.

Looks so innocent, too. Man, I waisted a bunch of rubber on that route...

Pretty fun, though. Low to the ground, not too much chance of gettin' hurt on it, which makes it a fun sandbag...

I think its an old Yaniro problem.

-Brian in SLC
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