Blown Out Climber Series: Routine Sunday Ski & Rubble Ogle

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Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 18, 2007 - 09:58pm PT
Ogle:
To glance with amorous invitation or challenge.
To eye amorously or provocatively.
To look at especially with greedy or interested attention.


Sweet!
Just me 'n that spot on my lens went fer the usual romp.
'Mostly I do this cuz, um, shoot, not sure really.


Here's an overview of the gen'ral area:


And a tighter shot of my objective,
To eyeball the 3 prominent peaks of the Blue Lake Cirque,
Pawnee Peak, Mt Toll, & Paiute Peak:

Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 18, 2007 - 09:59pm PT
So I skied up the 5 miles into Blue Lake Cirque.
That's Mt Pawnee on the left, and Mt Toll on the right:


And Toll to the left with Paiute on the right:


Up Closer,

Pawnee Peak:



Mt Toll,
With a snow covered & frozen Blue Lake beneath,
The right skyline is a 3-5 pitch rock buttress, which goes at 5.6:



Paiute Peak:

Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 18, 2007 - 10:00pm PT
On Pawnee Peak,
The prominent line on the buttress,
Well, sort of prominent, will likely be easy/moderate 5th class, 4-6 pitches:


And then I skied back out on my tracks,
Steering left of that lens blem,
'Cuz if I'd hit that I might have face planted:

paganmonkeyboy

Trad climber
the blighted lands of hatu
Feb 18, 2007 - 10:24pm PT
sweet, tarbuster - thanks for the pics and bringing back memories of my old stomping grounds...that whole area is a wonderful place to play...
hossjulia

Trad climber
Eastside
Feb 18, 2007 - 10:34pm PT
PMB, same here!

Thanks tarbuster, used to ski in there alot. But no complaints, today I skied 6" fresh on Tioga Pass, and tomorrow, Dawn Patrol!
Looking forward to the first powder turns of the season.

Gotta get first tracks before our guests track it up!

Ogle, oh yeah baby, ole hoss here has been ogle'n an old friend of yours...............man can he float up the 'milks!
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 18, 2007 - 10:43pm PT
My pleasure gents.
Who dat be doin' the floatin' Hoss?
Man I love dem Milks!
426

Sport climber
Buzzard Point, TN
Feb 19, 2007 - 09:34am PT
cool stuff (literally), Tar. Rubble Ogle Appreciation.
Jello

Social climber
No Ut
Feb 19, 2007 - 02:04pm PT
You're a man after my own heart, Roy. I used to cruise those Indian Peaks summer and winter, lookin' for gems and just enjoynig that Colorado high terrain ambience.

I've hijacked your photo and drawn in a few routes I did on the north side of Pawnee. The orange and yellow line were alpine solo cruises. The red line is a two-pitch route up into a big, leaning corner with an offwidth cux (funny, the amount of offwidth talk on this forum, recently). One of my claims to fame is that my partner, Mark Wilford, backed off the crux, then I went up and lead it. Anyone who knows Wilford knows he doesn't back off of very much. Truth is, though, I found a little crack deep inside the offwidth portion to use, that Mark hadn't discovered, that made the climbing somewhat reasonable.

Also, there are occasional good mixed lines on that hill.



goatboy smellz

climber
colorado
Feb 19, 2007 - 05:57pm PT
Pawnee seems a bit of a choss pile on it's lower sections, guess I need to sack up and take a second look at it this summer. Gulp!
hossjulia

Trad climber
Eastside
Feb 19, 2007 - 05:59pm PT
hey tar, your ole buddy Finn, that's who!
Mike.

climber
Feb 19, 2007 - 07:25pm PT
bumpalicious
Rick A

climber
Boulder, Colorado
Feb 19, 2007 - 07:55pm PT
Roy,
Nice pictures of a beautiful day in the hills. I was going to ask if it was windy, then I saw that your tracks up had already almost filled in by the time you went down. Never mind.

Here’s some more high country ambiance: a few shots of the same area from a different perspective. These are from an outing to Mt. Audobon, last spring.



Jello, any crags around here that you haven't explored?

Rick
Jello

Social climber
No Ut
Feb 19, 2007 - 09:58pm PT
Don't know, Rick, there's lots of nooks and crannies out there! The west side of Indian Peaks is even better, with a lot of good multi-pitch (up to six or eight-pitches) routes to do, but you have to walk for them. That stuff on Pawnee is just 4th and 5th-class scrambling with the exception of the route Wilford and I did, which is 5.10 or so. Fun romping in the mountains, though.

There are also good new routes to be had on the south-facing wall over by Devil's Thumb. Some features look like challenging free climbs up to about 1,000'. I went part-way up one of them years ago, encountering good rock up to 5.11, but it got late, so we rapped. We had eaten up too much time on the long approach from the east. Drive the road from the west up to Rollins Pass and walk the Divide for a few miles north to the area. Cuts the approach (walking part) in half.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 19, 2007 - 11:36pm PT
Well allrighty then!
Thanks fer drawin’ in them snappy route lines Jeff.
Here, maybe you cud try some more?


There’s quite a lot of rocky-rubble along the deep cleft of the Middle Saint Vrain Creek drainage; most of it is South facin’ stuff forming a long escarpment along the north side, on the right as you ski in.



I also spotted some systems of fairly thick, but shortish & discontinuous ice pillars ‘n whatnot, that go up gulleys maybe a 1000’. Prolly more truble than they’re worth.
All tucked into this morass of chutes and benches:

Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 19, 2007 - 11:36pm PT
The Elk’s Tooth commands the cirque at the end of the tour, above St Vrain Glacier:


Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 19, 2007 - 11:37pm PT
Most of this stuff is dis-continuous, anywhere between 400’-1000’ in height:

This is the first biggish (for the area) thing you come to, sort of non-descript and brooding:


This pillar contains what, shoot, might be the Astroman of the St Vrain!
Haa-Haa; the line on the left, a big cleft, looks to be 2 long pithes; up the middle is a thing which looks like The Narrows, plucked from a chunk of the Steck Salathe,
While the broad buttress on the right would look to be 4th class:




And then there's this thingamajobber:


And before you come to the Elk’s tooth, is this broad 400’ cliff band with obvious craggin’ potential:

Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 19, 2007 - 11:38pm PT
Thanks fer joinin' in fellas; Ricky I like your pictures!
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 19, 2007 - 11:47pm PT
And before I sign off,
Here's a pic fer Hoss 'n me,
Of one of my fave buddies, Bob Finn:


(name that route; this is an upper pitch; if I post the first pitch it's a slam dunk)
taco bill

Trad climber
boulder, co
Feb 20, 2007 - 12:36am PT
Green spur/slab? That neck of the woods or am I totally off?

Climbed in eldo yesterday for the first time in months. I think this is the latest in the year I've ever gotten my pass.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 20, 2007 - 12:46am PT
Well Done Taco B!
Here's the first pitch of Green Spur:

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