Discussion Topic |
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Ricardo Carlos
Trad climber
Off center, CO.
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Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 12, 2007 - 08:25pm PT
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Who is the oldest climber to have climbed the Captaian?
Who is the youngest to climb the Captaian?
I should have stated led not just jugged or guided. But Sh#t 81 !!!!
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Feb 12, 2007 - 10:34pm PT
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At the rate it's taking me to get down there and get on one it's likely to be me by the time I do...
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Feb 12, 2007 - 10:54pm PT
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Hell, I'd be stoked to rap it at 81...
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Ksolem
Trad climber
LA, Ca
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Feb 12, 2007 - 11:03pm PT
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One of the older guys (he must be over 50 by now..?) who does El Cap routes at the highest level with no signs of slowing down is the notorious "E." Older guys have done the Big Stone but E is still tearing it up.
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Wonder
climber
WA
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Feb 12, 2007 - 11:30pm PT
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I want to place my bets right now on Mike Corbett that someday he will set the record as the oldest to do The Captain.
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Feb 12, 2007 - 11:45pm PT
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Steve Sutton and Hugh Burton were 17 when they did the Nose, in 1970.
Does "doing big walls" mean climbing them in the way that most do, i.e. a two person amateur team, with each person leading half the pitches?
Being led up by a guide, or jumaring most or all pitches, seem quite a different quality ascent than classic ascent style.
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Ricardo Carlos
Trad climber
Off center, CO.
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 12, 2007 - 11:49pm PT
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Dennis Kemp in about 1980 did his frist valley big wall at 57. At 23 I thought 57 was oooolllldddd but looking at 52 its pretty fing young!
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10b4me
Trad climber
California
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Feb 13, 2007 - 12:10am PT
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Steve Sutton and Hugh Burton were 17 when they did the Nose, in 1970
wasn't the owner of this website 16 when he first climbed the Captain?
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phil
climber
eastside
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Feb 13, 2007 - 01:39am PT
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I'm pretty sure Han's wife Jackie did the capitan at least once if not more while pregnant with their first child. I know she soloed some easy free climbs during that period.
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jack herer
climber
veneta, or
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Feb 13, 2007 - 02:29am PT
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Mike. - You said shipoopi's 58, we climbed el cap together for his 44th birthday in 05, so I think your a little bit off.
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wayne w
Trad climber
the nw
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Feb 13, 2007 - 03:02am PT
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Hans, Jackie and I did Zodiac in 15:12 when she was carrying their daughter. She was a stellar partner...that Hans is a lucky man.
I can't wait to get back down there this spring for more fun on that magical stone.
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Feb 13, 2007 - 03:06am PT
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Wayne - man - do you ever do anything low-key and relaxed? You really do set a high bar for us poor, sodden schlepps up here. Poor Layton's barely keeping up and he's moving and thinking four times faster than the rest of us. If Mike ever fails us were going to have to give Bill Coe and Jim Anglin some meth and see if they can't keep up with you...
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Feb 13, 2007 - 09:50am PT
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When Tony Yaniro did the Dorn he was 16, and led the crux on a new route.
I'm gonna be 53 soon and I'm still soloing new routes.
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can't say
Social climber
Pasadena CA
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Feb 13, 2007 - 11:09am PT
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Individually, neither E or Mo, would qualify, but their combined ages when they did Tribal Rite in Oct. would be somewhere around 103
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Maysho
climber
Truckee, CA
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Feb 13, 2007 - 12:20pm PT
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I dimly recall Richard Hechtel doing the Nose or El Cap as quite an oldster, with Ed Barry. He did some classic Valley FA's way back.
Peter
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
Otto, NC
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Feb 13, 2007 - 12:25pm PT
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Leo was pretty dang young when he got on El Nino, perhaps 19? Not super-young, but a stout outing for a Brit's first go-round.
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bringmedeath
climber
la la land
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Feb 13, 2007 - 12:36pm PT
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Met some dude this summer that soloed the Straw... he seemed older than 50. Cool guy and was super stoked for him. If my mind isn't playing tricks, he's from New Mexico with a ill name like, Devito(???).
Who are the youngest for a VI FA? Sutton and Burton, how old were they on some of those new routes? I'm talking team age averaged, not just one young guy.
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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno, CA
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Feb 13, 2007 - 12:51pm PT
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It was a real bummer for all of us involved when Fred (Beckey) talked himself out of doing El Cap. My research shows he is either 83 or 86, leaning towards 86. If you ask him, he won't give you an answer. Either way, not only would it have been his first time up the captain, but he would have been the oldest to have climbed it. It was pretty amazing watching him jug. Hell, it was amazing watching him on the approach each day. He has one speed. Never slows down. Just a nice, steady pace.
"Good Times"
One of my favorite shots from the week. Makes me smile every time I look at it.
"Rise and Shine"
"One Speed"
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wildone
climber
Isolated in El Portal and loving it
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Feb 13, 2007 - 01:13pm PT
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I recall Tom Frost at a slideshow two years ago recounting a repeat of the Salathe (I think-maybe NA wall) with his son a few years before that. How old is Tom?
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retired
Trad climber
White Salmon WA.
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Feb 13, 2007 - 01:13pm PT
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Great shots of Fred...no helmet no gloves no knee pads...tough!
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Feb 13, 2007 - 02:41pm PT
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That first photo looks like Fred doesn't appreciate Ammon's sense of humor.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Feb 14, 2007 - 03:49am PT
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Tom Frost did a 40th anniversary ascent of the Salathe' with his son Ryan in 2001 (about age 64). Here he reprises the classic shot of him leading the roof pitch on the FA:
http://frostworksclimbing.com/about.html
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ec
climber
ca
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Feb 14, 2007 - 03:55am PT
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"In 1997, Galen Rowell becomes the oldest man to climb the Nose in a Day; the 57 year old acclaimed photographer sent the route in 16 hours, swinging leads with partner Conrad Anker."
from: http://www.cs.colorado.edu/~jrblack/histrec.html
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Jonny D
Social climber
Lost Angelez, Kalifornia
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Feb 14, 2007 - 12:25pm PT
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Hate to blow the Cory/Nose bubble but... I did the Nose in '85 with french guide Jean Noel Roche and his son Bertrand (aka Zebulon) who was 10 years old at the time." Zeb" led the king swing and another couple of pitches. He later on became the youngest climber to top Everest at age 17 and did it again with his bride with a tandem paragliding descent.
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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Feb 14, 2007 - 02:12pm PT
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Jim Bridwell must be one of the older guys venturing away from the more bread and butter routes. How old is he?
A friend of mine who is 70 (71 now?) has followed a couple of routes in the last couple of years. It might not have the risk of leading, but it's a phenomenal amount of work to do all of that, and watching him train and pull it off really inspired me.
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Feb 14, 2007 - 06:21pm PT
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I believe, Bill Price was 14 and Kurt Reider was 15 when they did the Nose in 1976.
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deuce4
Big Wall climber
the Southwest
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Feb 14, 2007 - 07:57pm PT
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Once I met a British team aged 11 and 13 who had just topped out on the Nose. I had talked with the father before, who had been belaying his kids on the Cookie. The dad let the kids run up the Nose on their own. Forgot their names, great people.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Feb 14, 2007 - 08:57pm PT
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One of my climbing partners is still leading hard stuff at over 60, and she was looking at trying to be the oldest woman to climb El Cap at one point. Our attempt at that time got stopped when I unwisely chose to lead p4 of Tangerine Trip just as darkness was falling. Oops, insta-epic. I'm sure she could still do it easily.
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Gunkie
climber
East Coast US
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Feb 15, 2007 - 08:44am PT
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I love this thread!
I'm going through the midst of having three kids [11, 8, 5] all playing sports and musical instruments, and involved in all sorts of other activities. I'm just trying to keep the fire alive with modest hopes of getting up to Cannon or North Conway this summer for some aid climbing.
Keep the dream alive!
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426
Sport climber
Buzzard Point, TN
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Feb 15, 2007 - 09:16am PT
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we must have the toughies down here. Met a late 50's and early 60's gal TR'ing Some Girls (5.12b) last month.
All gray and firing, that was the scene...
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Scott Cole
Trad climber
Jackson, WY^
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Feb 17, 2007 - 09:57am PT
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I think you all missed the point. If you're climbing the Captain (sans Guide) you aren't old yet! Maybe the body is a bit worn, but the mind must still be young.
Scott
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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Feb 17, 2007 - 11:15am PT
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That pic of Frost all easy and calm up there -- almost looks like he knows what he's doing. That kind of skill is settled in the womb.
JL
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kev
climber
CA
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Feb 17, 2007 - 05:11pm PT
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bump - this is climbing related....
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Feb 18, 2007 - 02:51am PT
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Dave Lane of Vancouver was 15 when he did the Nose with John Arts, in October 1976. He'd been climbing less than a year, and was probably the youngest person at that time who'd climbed it.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Feb 18, 2007 - 01:01pm PT
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Melissa,
Bridwell has been around for so long because he started climbing when he was four, only a few months after he started smoking.
He's only 48.
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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Feb 20, 2007 - 03:39pm PT
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If he's only 48, then I need to start getting serious about using more sunblock! :-)
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Sascha
climber
Sebastopol, CA
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Apr 18, 2011 - 11:04pm PT
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So, who is the oldest woman to have climbed (leading a fair share of pitches) El Cap to date?
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Scott Thelen
Trad climber
Truckee, Ca
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Apr 19, 2011 - 11:19am PT
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none of this stuff matters.
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