Mal Daly's Alaska epic (with Jim Donini)

Search
Go

Discussion Topic

Return to Forum List
This thread has been locked
Messages 1 - 25 of total 25 in this topic
murcy

Gym climber
sanfrancisco
Topic Author's Original Post - May 7, 2019 - 10:09pm PT
Recounted here: https://soundcloud.com/the_sharp_end/malcolm-dalys-alaska-epic
maldaly

Trad climber
Boulder, CO
May 8, 2019 - 07:36am PT
Zardoz, we haven’t found it yet but here are the requirements:

#1- Because our main goal is to get out of our mortgage we want to pay cash for a house. We got lucky in boulder; the value of our house doubled in just 7 years so we have a pile of cash.
#2- We want to be in a community of great supportive people. No gates to our neighborhood. No HOA fees
#3- Lots of rivers to fish and raft.
#4- Nordic ski trails in the winter. Preferably out the back door.
#5- Decent accesses to good medical care. FFL acceptable.
#6- Access to easy rock climb is with short approaches.
#7- We want to be at the edge of the mountains.

Candidates so far:
Carbondale (Might be too expensive and there’s not much inventory)
Hailey, ID
Bozeman, MT
Heber City, UT
Mancos, CO

Sorry for the thread drift.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
May 8, 2019 - 08:10am PT
Mancos....who needs Montana winters?
Brian in SLC

Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
May 8, 2019 - 08:11am PT
Maybe toss Driggs ID into the mix? Or near there?

Dillon MT.

Fishing can be kinda crowded in Heber (middle Provo). Somewhat limited.

What about Lander?

Anywhere down the Bitterroot?

Yeah, sorry for the thread drift...ha ha.

We were at dinner in Anchorage when J Do walks in with your relations...we'd just got out of the Ruth (I dimly recall). Rumor of your situation had permeated...whew.
Don Paul

Social climber
Washington DC
May 8, 2019 - 08:30am PT
Always love a story about a 200' fall. I think you can relax the no radio rule next time lol.
maldaly

Trad climber
Boulder, CO
May 8, 2019 - 08:30am PT
Donini, I think we missed the boat on Ridgway, and Mancos is a bit far removed from Livingston, where Kitt is moving. Mason wants to be in Park City. That’s why Hailey is currently #1 on the list. Not nearly as cold and dreary as Bozeman. Also, we don’t want to be tooo to the kids or we’ll be dog sitting all the time.

Dillon...Meh.

Lander is cool but lacks the Nordic trails and the Popo Agie dries up too early.

Man; talk about first world problems!
Gnome Ofthe Diabase

climber
Out Of Bed
May 8, 2019 - 08:37am PT
20 years ago this month, . . . . . . > > > . . . . . . . . No Words ! !
, , , , TRANGO , , , , , , , , Xavier,B. told me about there,

there is a line of thought that runs along idea that 20 to 25 years is the length of a career. If that rings true
Here here Here; three cheers for an excellent career & a to a job well done.
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
May 8, 2019 - 08:38am PT
Just got to Bozeman Sunday and started at MSU Monday. Seems like this place would fit the Bill. You could live like a king in the Black Hills off your house money. The hills has everything you would want save floatable rivers but the fishing and moderate rock/ice climbing is endless.
Todd Eastman

Social climber
Putney, VT
May 8, 2019 - 08:40am PT
Winthrop, WA
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
May 8, 2019 - 08:59am PT
Buford Wyo!

All of the above, and you could buy the whole town, for cash!
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
May 8, 2019 - 10:05am PT
Mancos? Isn’t that where the adjective comes from?
TwistedCrank

climber
Released into general population, Idaho
May 8, 2019 - 11:32am PT
Butte
JLP

Social climber
The internet
May 8, 2019 - 11:40am PT
#4- Nordic ski trails in the winter. Preferably out the back door.
#5- Decent accesses to good medical care. FFL acceptable.
Sounds like Canada to me. With exchange and real estate pricing around Calgary, for example, you could probably get 2 homes.
Don Paul

Social climber
Washington DC
May 8, 2019 - 12:30pm PT
There's some old coal mines up on Canyon Blvd, IF the current residents allow.
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
May 8, 2019 - 06:32pm PT
hey there, say, donini... thanks for the share...

and, sure you find a neat place, malcolm, :)
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
May 8, 2019 - 06:44pm PT
Back to the topic. It is probably hard to imagine for someone sitting in their comfortable living room the magnitude of Mal’s ordeal. In all of my lengthy career as an alpinist I have never seen someone face extreme adversity with the calm equanimity that Mal showed on Thunder Mountain.
He spent two nights on a ledge with life threatening injuries and no tent or sleeping bag as spindrift avalanches swirled over him. He was plucked off of the ledge by a splendid heli pilot who was able to maneuver close enough to the wall to allow his rescuer who was hanging from a 200 ft. rope to get to him. This all happened an hour before the worsening storm would have made rescue impossible.
At the time Mal was the founder and CEO of Trango. When his rescuer got to him Mal smiled and said...”cool, you have Trango tools.”
When Mal’s wife Karen and I met him briefly at the Talkeetna air strip before the helicopter wisked him off to Anchorage, I asked him about his ordeal on that small ledge with spindrift avalanches covering him every few minutes. His response...”jeeze, digging out gave me something to do.” Malcolm had a compound fib/tib on his left leg, a completely shattered talus bone on his right which would eventually lead to that foot’s amputation, frostbite and internal bleeding. When I asked how he felt he said...”you know, my shoulders are a little sore from doing windmills all night to stay warm.”
One TOUGH dude!


maldaly

Trad climber
Boulder, CO
May 8, 2019 - 06:57pm PT
Lies! Damn lies, I say.

Thx
Mal
hacky47

Trad climber
goldhill
May 8, 2019 - 07:38pm PT
write the book.... please

TWP

Trad climber
Mancos, CO & Bend, OR
May 9, 2019 - 10:40am PT
Never thought I'd see the day when Mancos made anyone's list of "best places to move."

In 1971, my Father bought 140-acres of land at 7,900 feet seven miles north of Mancos. The family still owns and treasures the land. I'll be there myself soon.

Mal, I'll offer my two cents on Mancos with your criteria in mind.

So far as the post office is concerned, "Mancos" is an area of about 20 plus square miles so its a lot of territory with many different lifestyle and house options, from Weber Canyon to Jersey Jim (south to north) and the County Line (east) to halfway to Cortez and Dolores (on the west).

The cross country ski potential is simply tremendous. A cross country trail is maintained on Chicken Creek and endless laps around Lake Mancos (next to our property) in winter offer tremendous scope.

Proximity to mountains and wonderful hiking - all excellent.

Mountain biking - check. Miles of dirt roads from the days of mining when roads extended all the way to the high basins in the La Platas. A dedicated dirt bike track adjacent (north of) the Montezuma County Fairgrounds.

Rock climbing in the immediate vicinity is sourly lacking and I see no unexplored rock to remedy this defect. Further afield lies Indian Creek (150 miles), Ouray is 90 miles (via Durango) or 140 miles via Telluride (and over two major mountain passes either away). Minor climbing areas (not worthy of "destination" characterization outside Durango, topping out at 300 feet.

Politics - the entire American spectrum is present. From polygamist Mormons to LBGT. Cowboys to Trustifarian vegans. The county is Republican and the majority voted for Trump. Go figure. Mancos elected an openly gay mayor in the 1990s as I recall.

Winters are cold and can be snowy. Mancos elevation = 7,000 feet and most of the surroundings are higher.

Best try it a while as a renter to see if you like it. Rent any dump or trailer in Mancos and get the lay of the land.

Glad to give you the full low down in a phone call. If so, get my number from Jim D.
FRUMY

Trad climber
Bishop,CA
May 15, 2019 - 08:47am PT
bump
johnkelley

climber
Anchorage Alaska
May 15, 2019 - 10:10am PT
The Dolores River Canyon outside of Dove Creek Co. is the closest good crag to Mancos I think. About 60 miles
Decko

Trad climber
Colorado
May 15, 2019 - 11:55am PT
There are survivors and there are people who give up.

I remember a line in the epic Denali book Minus 148 Degrees.

These hard locals decide to attempt the first winter ascent of Denali and get pinned down in a raging blizzard at 17,000 feet in what sounded like some horribly cramped ice cave and run out of everything. Food, Fuel, anything to eat or drink.

One of them remembers that they might be near an old Cache a previous expedition had left in the area.

He set out in the blizzard with the mindset of "never give up always try until there is nothing left in you"

He hacked away blindly at the ice around them and he eventually found the food and fuel cache that saved their lives.

Mal never gave up on that ledge that's for damn sure.....
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
May 15, 2019 - 12:54pm PT
Mal had no choice but to stay on that ledge but the remarkable thing is the incredibly positive attitude he maintained in very trying circumstances. No sleeping bag or tent, little food or water, major injuries and constant spindrift avalanches covering him.
It has often been said that in survival situations, a positive attitude goes a long way towards a good outcome.
Nick Danger

Ice climber
Arvada, CO
May 15, 2019 - 02:01pm PT
Mal,
Happy hunting and I hope you find just what you are looking for. My lovely bride and I just found our retirement digs, 200 feet from Rio Chama, nearest trailhead about 1/2 mile away, road biking, mtn biking, and dirt biking right out the front door, skiing an hour away, and numerous rick climbing areas within 1 hr. We can drag our canoes or duckies from the porch to the river. Fruit trees abound and soon we will be planting a garden. Dream spots are out there, and the search is half the fun.

Once we close on the house, change what we need to change, and set up shop (late summer) I'll post up an invitation to one and all to wander down for some northern New Mexico phun. Totally wicked cool geology too.
SteveW

Trad climber
The state of confusion
May 15, 2019 - 03:47pm PT
Did they ever find poor Mal's toe, and the bum that stole it?
Messages 1 - 25 of total 25 in this topic
Return to Forum List
 
Our Guidebooks
spacerCheck 'em out!
SuperTopo Guidebooks

guidebook icon
Try a free sample topo!

 
SuperTopo on the Web

Recent Route Beta