Mal Daly's Alaska epic (with Jim Donini)


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Gym climber
Topic Author's Original Post - May 7, 2019 - 10:09pm PT
Recounted here:

Trad climber
Boulder, CO
May 8, 2019 - 07:36am PT
Zardoz, we haven’t found it yet but here are the requirements:

#1- Because our main goal is to get out of our mortgage we want to pay cash for a house. We got lucky in boulder; the value of our house doubled in just 7 years so we have a pile of cash.
#2- We want to be in a community of great supportive people. No gates to our neighborhood. No HOA fees
#3- Lots of rivers to fish and raft.
#4- Nordic ski trails in the winter. Preferably out the back door.
#5- Decent accesses to good medical care. FFL acceptable.
#6- Access to easy rock climb is with short approaches.
#7- We want to be at the edge of the mountains.

Candidates so far:
Carbondale (Might be too expensive and there’s not much inventory)
Hailey, ID
Bozeman, MT
Heber City, UT
Mancos, CO

Sorry for the thread drift.

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
May 8, 2019 - 08:10am PT
Mancos....who needs Montana winters?
Brian in SLC

Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
May 8, 2019 - 08:11am PT
Maybe toss Driggs ID into the mix? Or near there?

Dillon MT.

Fishing can be kinda crowded in Heber (middle Provo). Somewhat limited.

What about Lander?

Anywhere down the Bitterroot?

Yeah, sorry for the thread drift...ha ha.

We were at dinner in Anchorage when J Do walks in with your relations...we'd just got out of the Ruth (I dimly recall). Rumor of your situation had permeated...whew.
Don Paul

Social climber
Washington DC
May 8, 2019 - 08:30am PT
Always love a story about a 200' fall. I think you can relax the no radio rule next time lol.

Trad climber
Boulder, CO
May 8, 2019 - 08:30am PT
Donini, I think we missed the boat on Ridgway, and Mancos is a bit far removed from Livingston, where Kitt is moving. Mason wants to be in Park City. That’s why Hailey is currently #1 on the list. Not nearly as cold and dreary as Bozeman. Also, we don’t want to be tooo to the kids or we’ll be dog sitting all the time.


Lander is cool but lacks the Nordic trails and the Popo Agie dries up too early.

Man; talk about first world problems!
Gnome Ofthe Diabase

Out Of Bed
May 8, 2019 - 08:37am PT
20 years ago this month, . . . . . . > > > . . . . . . . . No Words ! !
, , , , TRANGO , , , , , , , , Xavier,B. told me about there,

there is a line of thought that runs along idea that 20 to 25 years is the length of a career. If that rings true
Here here Here; three cheers for an excellent career & a to a job well done.
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
May 8, 2019 - 08:38am PT
Just got to Bozeman Sunday and started at MSU Monday. Seems like this place would fit the Bill. You could live like a king in the Black Hills off your house money. The hills has everything you would want save floatable rivers but the fishing and moderate rock/ice climbing is endless.
Todd Eastman

Social climber
Putney, VT
May 8, 2019 - 08:40am PT
Winthrop, WA

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
May 8, 2019 - 08:59am PT
Buford Wyo!

All of the above, and you could buy the whole town, for cash!

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
May 8, 2019 - 10:05am PT
Mancos? Isn’t that where the adjective comes from?

Released into general population, Idaho
May 8, 2019 - 11:32am PT

Social climber
The internet
May 8, 2019 - 11:40am PT
#4- Nordic ski trails in the winter. Preferably out the back door.
#5- Decent accesses to good medical care. FFL acceptable.
Sounds like Canada to me. With exchange and real estate pricing around Calgary, for example, you could probably get 2 homes.
Don Paul

Social climber
Washington DC
May 8, 2019 - 12:30pm PT
There's some old coal mines up on Canyon Blvd, IF the current residents allow.

Social climber
May 8, 2019 - 06:32pm PT
hey there, say, donini... thanks for the share...

and, sure you find a neat place, malcolm, :)

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
May 8, 2019 - 06:44pm PT
Back to the topic. It is probably hard to imagine for someone sitting in their comfortable living room the magnitude of Mal’s ordeal. In all of my lengthy career as an alpinist I have never seen someone face extreme adversity with the calm equanimity that Mal showed on Thunder Mountain.
He spent two nights on a ledge with life threatening injuries and no tent or sleeping bag as spindrift avalanches swirled over him. He was plucked off of the ledge by a splendid heli pilot who was able to maneuver close enough to the wall to allow his rescuer who was hanging from a 200 ft. rope to get to him. This all happened an hour before the worsening storm would have made rescue impossible.
At the time Mal was the founder and CEO of Trango. When his rescuer got to him Mal smiled and said...”cool, you have Trango tools.”
When Mal’s wife Karen and I met him briefly at the Talkeetna air strip before the helicopter wisked him off to Anchorage, I asked him about his ordeal on that small ledge with spindrift avalanches covering him every few minutes. His response...”jeeze, digging out gave me something to do.” Malcolm had a compound fib/tib on his left leg, a completely shattered talus bone on his right which would eventually lead to that foot’s amputation, frostbite and internal bleeding. When I asked how he felt he said...”you know, my shoulders are a little sore from doing windmills all night to stay warm.”
One TOUGH dude!


Trad climber
Boulder, CO
May 8, 2019 - 06:57pm PT
Lies! Damn lies, I say.


Trad climber
May 8, 2019 - 07:38pm PT
write the book.... please


Trad climber
Mancos, CO & Bend, OR
May 9, 2019 - 10:40am PT
Never thought I'd see the day when Mancos made anyone's list of "best places to move."

In 1971, my Father bought 140-acres of land at 7,900 feet seven miles north of Mancos. The family still owns and treasures the land. I'll be there myself soon.

Mal, I'll offer my two cents on Mancos with your criteria in mind.

So far as the post office is concerned, "Mancos" is an area of about 20 plus square miles so its a lot of territory with many different lifestyle and house options, from Weber Canyon to Jersey Jim (south to north) and the County Line (east) to halfway to Cortez and Dolores (on the west).

The cross country ski potential is simply tremendous. A cross country trail is maintained on Chicken Creek and endless laps around Lake Mancos (next to our property) in winter offer tremendous scope.

Proximity to mountains and wonderful hiking - all excellent.

Mountain biking - check. Miles of dirt roads from the days of mining when roads extended all the way to the high basins in the La Platas. A dedicated dirt bike track adjacent (north of) the Montezuma County Fairgrounds.

Rock climbing in the immediate vicinity is sourly lacking and I see no unexplored rock to remedy this defect. Further afield lies Indian Creek (150 miles), Ouray is 90 miles (via Durango) or 140 miles via Telluride (and over two major mountain passes either away). Minor climbing areas (not worthy of "destination" characterization outside Durango, topping out at 300 feet.

Politics - the entire American spectrum is present. From polygamist Mormons to LBGT. Cowboys to Trustifarian vegans. The county is Republican and the majority voted for Trump. Go figure. Mancos elected an openly gay mayor in the 1990s as I recall.

Winters are cold and can be snowy. Mancos elevation = 7,000 feet and most of the surroundings are higher.

Best try it a while as a renter to see if you like it. Rent any dump or trailer in Mancos and get the lay of the land.

Glad to give you the full low down in a phone call. If so, get my number from Jim D.

Trad climber
May 15, 2019 - 08:47am PT
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