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Nolan Huther
Trad climber
Potsdam, NY
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Topic Author's Reply - May 1, 2019 - 10:52am PT
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A better status symbol nowadays are totems and ultralight camalots. I'm more interested in the crack n ups because I have a few 11+/12-s I'm interested in this season or next with phrases like "testpiece RP crack climbing" in descriptions. I had to spend some time on the couch this winter and stumbled across the crack n ups and coincidentally saw a few random sizes for sale on Mountain Project. After using some spare parts to rig them like healyje has above, I really thought they were neat and could be useful for a little mental security on a thin move, or for clean aid with irregular thin cracks, sort of like a cam hook/nut hybrid. I also just really enjoy climbing on RPs because of the care required to place them, and the reward of them holding.
On crack n ups versus other hand placed hooks, the camming action of the offset stem is a benefit. They're still new to me but like I said, it feels like the satisfying response of a good pick torque on a mixed route. Would be easier handling them than RPs with gloves on, in my opinion, so they probably wouldn't be that bad for winter protection and less work for the follower than nailing, but real pins would be more confidence inspiring.
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JLP
Social climber
The internet
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Name these routes.
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Nolan Huther
Trad climber
Potsdam, NY
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Topic Author's Reply - May 1, 2019 - 11:14am PT
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Ok? They're in the Adirondacks, a few are obscure. Hidden Constellations 11d, Spooks 11d, Gun Control Now 11d, Doc Theo 11c, and for some routes I'd like to develop (with one in particular that would likely be 11/12-), plus for an aid route for a hard seam that I've made a goal for the next few years to make a free attempt (which is probably 11+/12-). A friend also wants to use them for multipitch route development in his backcountry playground, explicitly on a route he bailed off of saying that they'd be perfect. Crack n ups are also explicitly called for a interesting looking 10 called True North, which is apparently a nice pitch.
Anything else? Wanna know my social security number?
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JLP
Social climber
The internet
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Looks like a nice hard landing on this one. Hope your worthless voodoo BS pro holds. Better climbers amidst longer and healthier careers tend to stick with gear that's proven time and again to actually hold falls.
http://www.mountainproject.com/photo/112498085
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johntp
Trad climber
Punter, Little Rock
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Yup, hence, outdated, better stuff out there for micro cracks.
Peace
BITD while living in Dallas there was a 60' limestone face (5.7ish). Only pro was a number 4 CnU about halfway up. Purely psychological, wouldn't have held a fall fer sh#t.
Had a full set, but got lost with a whole lot of other old school gear gear in a haul bag that was lost in a move. Contents would be worth thousands today on ebay.
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ron gomez
Trad climber
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Bummer about that lost gear John! Only used CnUps for aid and only #2 n 3’s....small seam
Peace
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johntp
Trad climber
Punter, Little Rock
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Bummer about that lost gear John!
Yeah, had a boatload of aid, clean and ice gear in it. Everything Bought from 1977 to 1993. Forrest, Chouinard, Leeper, SMC, Friends and others.
Not as large of a collection as many here, but was pretty substantial. A lot of obscure pieces.
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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I only use them for free climbing and have taken a 30 footer onto a #3. Hardly ever done a free FA without having and using them. Will generally take them and Ballnuts over RP's and similar micronuts.
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JLP
Social climber
The internet
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Name some routes.
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Late Starter
Social climber
NA
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Grumpy, bitter keyboard warriors are fun. My theory as to why this site is dying....way too much negativity. This one^^ seems like they'd be fun at parties.
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JLP
Social climber
The internet
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healyje is long and well known as the internet's biggest talking sketch trad wanker. If some young kid is picking up on that in, frankly, a dangerous way, I think it's reasonable - and rather entertaining - to call out the specifics.
So - the 30 foot fall - what route?
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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May 17, 2019 - 12:13pm PT
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Second ascent attempt of Rain in Eldo on a #3.
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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May 17, 2019 - 12:22pm PT
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"JLP wrote: An outdated and worthless status symbol for "I'm such a hard climber". Listed facetiously as pro for sik routes up to about 11c - however were probably not actually used by the FA. Note Bridwell's appear to have never been placed. Such a useful and successful product, like 1 production batch ever was made - 40 years ago. Lol - here's some 20-something looking for a rack of them.
Well, that's was complete nonsense...
Late Starter wrote: Wouldn't a pecker/tomahawk pretty much do the same darn thing...?
Not really, often too thick and not dual-sided...
ron gomez wrote: Yup, hence, outdated, better stuff out there for micro cracks.
See above. I've used every form of pro there is or has been for marginal placements when free climbing. Nothing else compares to the #3-5 Crack N Ups and the #2-4 Ball nuts in the size and I've taken falls on all of them including six 25-30 foot falls in a row on a #3 ballnut (came right out as well).
JLP wrote: gear that's proven time and again to actually hold falls.
So what would this magical [modern] gear be?
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
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May 17, 2019 - 02:19pm PT
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Or better yet....
"Are you a Happy person JLP?"
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JLP
Social climber
The internet
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May 17, 2019 - 02:34pm PT
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A valid and frequent forum topic of discussion is to call out BS when presented then argue about it - which we can continue on 6/2.
vvvvvv There's nothing to sidestep. Nobody places this ancient aid climbing crap on Rain, nor do many even fall because it's not a hard route. The FA was in 1975.
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ron gomez
Trad climber
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May 17, 2019 - 05:53pm PT
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Very good and valid question Joe....noticed it gets sidestepped with a diversion statement.
Peace
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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May 18, 2019 - 02:03am PT
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JLP Wrote: Nobody places this ancient aid climbing crap on Rain, nor do many even fall because it's not a hard route.
No doubt forty years later...
The FA was in 1975.
Yep, I had just done my first ever lead solo on the Bastille Crack and afterward was sitting three feet from the final moves of Rain smoking a joint as Davy was trying to finish the FA and took two savage 50-60 footers in a row before calling it a day. I tried to do a second ascent the day after the FA but was a bit out of my league having only been climbing for a little over a year and it was my first trip to Eldo (or anywhere multipitch). But I can assure you in 1975 it was a hard route.
JLP wrote: gear that's proven time and again to actually hold falls.
And again, what is this magical modern gear that's better at holding free climbing falls in thin marginal placements?
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Mark Force
Trad climber
Ashland, Oregon
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May 18, 2019 - 07:14pm PT
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I'm with you, healyje.
Crack-n-ups 3-5 are awesome! A testament to Tom Frost's brilliance.
Better than the RP type stuff 90% of the time and stronger!
Particuarly good on basalt and similar rock. Great thin pro for cloud walking!
They have a stopper type taper that beaks and tomahaws don't have though they are awesome in their own right.
Have some and would love to have a few more.
And, yes, they hold falls - though the thought of 30' gives me the hebe jebe's.
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