Discussion Topic |
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| Messages 1 - 31 of total 31 in this topic |
BrassNuts
Trad climber
Save your a_s, reach for the brass...
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Mar 29, 2019 - 09:27am PT
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Wow! Amazing effort.
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Roots
Mountain climber
Redmond, Oregon
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Mar 29, 2019 - 09:47am PT
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The new race is on...
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Capt.
climber
some eastside hovel
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Mar 29, 2019 - 10:06am PT
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Nice!!
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Levy
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Mar 29, 2019 - 10:30am PT
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F-ing proud effort!
Reynolds is a beast!
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telemon01
Trad climber
Montana
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Mar 29, 2019 - 10:42am PT
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No helmet
No harness
No belay device
No guidebook
No rappelling
...No Problem!
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yanqui
climber
Balcarce, Argentina
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Mar 29, 2019 - 11:42am PT
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That's what I was thinking when I saw Rolo's post: the hard part of these ropeless ascents must be getting back down!
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aldude
climber
Monument Manor
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Mar 29, 2019 - 11:42am PT
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Had a rope and considered using it to descend at one point...which means that he probably had a harness and rap device...unless he was considering a dulfersitz. Free Solo means ropeless - the full measure of commitment!
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ClimbingOn
Trad climber
NY
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Mar 29, 2019 - 11:43am PT
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Solid.
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WBraun
climber
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Mar 29, 2019 - 11:53am PT
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Had a rope and considered using it to descend at one point...which means that he probably had a harness and rap device.
Sure ....
It's called good intelligence and NOT a suicide mission ......
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rolo
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 29, 2019 - 12:29pm PT
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On Fitz Roy he had a rope with him, a 6mm tag line, but he forgot his harness and rappel device at home, so had he decided to use it for rappelling, it would have been a la Dülfer or batmaning down.
The Afanassieff took him 6:38hs up, and 8:30hs down, clearly the down-climb was more challenging than the way up, specially because part way down the slabs - one of the cruxes, it got dark.
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norm larson
climber
wilson, wyoming
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Mar 29, 2019 - 12:54pm PT
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Wow! How times have changed.
If I forgot my harness and belay device I wouldn’t have needed to downclimb because I wouldn’t have even been able to start.
I remember meeting Jean Afanassief down there in Patagonia long ago. Cigarette dangling, jug of wine, Lamb Asado roasting at the fire saying "This is the fuking life, no?" Wonder what he would think of this?
Proud work Jim.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Mar 29, 2019 - 01:16pm PT
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Hey Rolo, nice to see you on the taco again. (We met in Vegas)
I remember watching the film Cumbre in Telluride and wondering if anyone in the audience could even appreciate the brilliance of Marco Pedrini's one day solo of Cerro Torre.
Then I saw Jeff Lowe sitting 20' away and I went over. He was blown away too.
These climbs are of a whole order of brilliance above that. (Pedrini rapped off)
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Don Paul
Social climber
Washington DC
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Mar 29, 2019 - 03:32pm PT
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Great accomplishment but a little unnerving thinking about putting tick marks on tiny holds up there, so you can see them with your headlamp while downclimbing.
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Gregory Crouch
Social climber
Walnut Creek, California
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Mar 29, 2019 - 03:43pm PT
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Fabulous accomplishment!
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Stewart Johnson
Mountain climber
lake forest
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Mar 29, 2019 - 04:07pm PT
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way to be!
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Mar 29, 2019 - 05:27pm PT
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Stellar!
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AP
Trad climber
Calgary
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Mar 29, 2019 - 05:49pm PT
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It doesn't get any better than this
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Largo
Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
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Mar 29, 2019 - 08:24pm PT
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That's climbing right there. Carry the torch, Jim!
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PhilG
Trad climber
The Circuit, Tonasket WA
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Mar 30, 2019 - 08:47am PT
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This ascent is a long ways from hammering in pitons to make one's way up a cliff.
Incredible climb!
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10b4me
Social climber
Lida Junction
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Mar 30, 2019 - 08:54am PT
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Had a rope and considered using it to descend at one point...which means that he probably had a harness and rap device...unless he was considering a dulfersitz. Free Solo means ropeless - the full measure of commitment!
As Werner said, it's the difference between being on a suicide mission, and being intelligent.
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originalpmac
Mountain climber
Timbers of Fennario
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Mar 30, 2019 - 12:31pm PT
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Yeah, but he put TICK MARKS (the horror) on the holds which is an obvious aid, ergo it was a aid (down)climb.
Joking obviously. What a bad mutherf#cker.
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ms55401
Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
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Mar 30, 2019 - 04:26pm PT
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I approve this climbing.
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i-b-goB
Social climber
Nutty
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Mar 31, 2019 - 10:10am PT
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Stunning, good thing the weather held!
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HeschMonster
Trad climber
Morro Bay
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not surprised about the rescue...also, how the hell is this only on 25 posts or so?
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micronut
Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
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He built cairns so as not to get lost during the descent and navigated upward by both route-finding instinct and his memory of a guidebook description he’d pored over in the weeks leading up to this moment—but forgot at home. -From The Article
Forgot the topo at home! Such a freakin rookie.
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Flip Flop
climber
Earth Planet, Universe
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Forgets guidebook and harness. This guy!
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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bump for he did it and we didn't
glad he made it harder than it needed to be into the bargain
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Kalimon
Social climber
Ridgway, CO
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Cryin' Mary Jimmie!
Godspeed.
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Bad Climber
Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
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Apr 10, 2019 - 07:13am PT
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What do you all think of this comment by Rolo:
Jim’s mastery is unquestionable, but whether this level of risk taking is or not the best expression of the art should be up for discussion.
BAd
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