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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 22, 2019 - 08:34pm PT
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and yet another crusty ass hat that feels the need to prove how cool he is by cutting someone else down for shareing some stoke...
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 22, 2019 - 08:45pm PT
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I had been thinking about an article that will gad wrote about the do's and don'ts of ice climbing. he made a big stink about never moving up on a less than bomber placement. I thought about that off and on for a few months and finally got around to putting my thoughts into words. I grabbed two shots that were easy to find and that I felt fit the subject. Yes they are both recycled. Its actually unpaid work to put together posts with decent climbing content. something you would have zero clue about since you have only posted 3 photos ever and they are not even yours. sorry if I did not spend more effort for you to come up with something more original for you. thanks for all your positive contributions to the site.
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 22, 2019 - 08:51pm PT
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I have taken the time to edit and post 2,210 photos on this site with zero compensation. 99% of them are by myself or my partner and are climbing related. thanks for your positive feedback.
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EdBannister
Mountain climber
13,000 feet
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Mar 23, 2019 - 12:34am PT
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i do not recall ever feeling like anything on ice was bomber.
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 23, 2019 - 04:43am PT
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lee vining?
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 23, 2019 - 04:45am PT
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Often the ice feels perfect. completely bomber with every swing and kick. other times it feels like walking on eggshells stacked up into a house of cards...
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Stewart Johnson
Mountain climber
lake forest
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Mar 23, 2019 - 06:57am PT
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Insecure?
Hardly, just sharing
Some Cali ice stoke
Getting some good conditions at red cliffs this year
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 23, 2019 - 07:04am PT
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Blade runner seems really interesting! certainly steeper than it looks in the butt shot.. where is that?
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capseeboy
Social climber
portland, oregon
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Mar 23, 2019 - 08:05am PT
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Hey tradmanclimbs, I appreciate the post.
Seems very intelligent to carry the kit to bail--I never thought of it. Good thing I never solo climbed much ice.
Carry on and have fun.
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Stewart Johnson
Mountain climber
lake forest
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Mar 23, 2019 - 08:10am PT
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Adjacent to
Kirkwood ski area@8000’
Usually a short window for climbing
These routes
about 4-5 weeks this time of year
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Tomcat
Trad climber
Chatham N.H.
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Mar 23, 2019 - 08:17am PT
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I have only shared a rope once with tradmanclimbs, don't kid yourselves, he's the very definition of a real ice climber. Westerners seem to struggle with the idea routes at Lake Willoughby could be tough, but they are, very tough. Stand under one and you will know. There are but a few pitches at Frankenstein or Cathedral harder than the throw away stuff at Willoughby called the Tablets, which yield two full pitches of 4-4+ any way you go. They don't even name them.
One neat thing about trad is historically he does more with less, not always the latest greatest and plenty of duct tape. We don't see eye to eye politically and on a few other things, but I can assure you he's the real deal.
Regarding the subject at hand, I eventually went with the idea that as long as I felt the screw was solid, I could start moving on hooks, and increase the weld factor the further I got above the gear, and that worked for me. I've been at it 41 years.
Carry on....
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Scott Thelen
Trad climber
Truckee, Ca
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Mar 23, 2019 - 01:29pm PT
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Stewart Johnson is the man!!
Hi Paul...
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 23, 2019 - 01:53pm PT
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Tomcat. I am completely with you on the closer you are to good gear the lighter your touch can be.....
I love seeing Stewart's and Norms and others crazy western an Alaskan ice shots.
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Stewart Johnson
Mountain climber
lake forest
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Mar 23, 2019 - 02:29pm PT
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Headed out tomorrow Scotty!
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Nick Danger
Ice climber
Arvada, CO
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Mar 23, 2019 - 08:22pm PT
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Tradman, I LOVE your posts and picks. I relate to everything you have posted about ice. I love the stuff.
On the subject of a light touch, the first couple of seasons I climbed ice with my wife Pam, she developed the lightest touch on ice I have ever seen. Admittedly she was seconding my leads, but she still impressed me every time with her deft touch. Gotta love a woman who will go out and climb ice with ya.,
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