Shoe Recommendations Please

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Messages 1 - 13 of total 13 in this topic
Krista

Boulder climber
Kent, CT
Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 18, 2019 - 06:07am PT
Hey all, I am looking for climbing shoe recommendations for my unique foot situation.
Essentially I have an extra bit of bone at the base of my foot where the pinky toe begins, and if there is any extra pressure there it hurts like a sob. I’ve gotten away with wearing wide street shoes, and Vibram toe shoes for climbing, but it’s definitely not giving me the best advantage.
Are there any climbing shoes with a lot of give in the rubber on the toe box?
A wide toebox with a skinny heel shoe?
Thank you!
Contractor

Boulder climber
CA
Mar 18, 2019 - 06:30am PT
Any specific climbing; slab, edging, cracks, or general purpose?
ground_up

Trad climber
mt. hood /baja
Mar 18, 2019 - 07:36am PT
You might try a pair of TC pros . They have a wider toebox and work well
for me. Good luck.
David Knopp

Trad climber
CA
Mar 18, 2019 - 08:49am PT
i'd suggest looking for old "vintage" shoes on ebay-sportiva kaukulators, or syncros. Maybe try a mythos, they stretch incredibly!
ron gomez

Trad climber
Mar 18, 2019 - 09:09am PT
Boreal Ballet if still made
Peace
Gnome Ofthe Diabase

climber
Out Of Bed
Mar 18, 2019 - 11:22am PT
Three things off the top of my head , well, no actually 5 things

(1)
From this recent thread

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=3181438&tn=0#msg3181447

THERE'S THESE

$60.00!!Size 42 \ I Guess that one can also find them on the web ...

https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/116586897/fs-scarpa-big-wallvia-ferrata-boots-sz-42-60ship

IF THE SHOE FITS !





(2)

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=3179562&msg=3180906#msg3180906



(3)
For the 1st hundred years climbers climbed in climbing boots. Hard toe'd
Stiff, board-lasted, Norwegian welted, Vibram soled mountain (hiking) boots

(3.5)
Donald Perry still wears that sort of foot wear & has for 30-40 years of climbing here in the Gunks

(4)
Everyone here, but some more than others deserve your respect.
You need to answer the questions.

(5)
What size shoes?
If you are in Kent Connecticut & need a size shoe that I have,
I most likely have multiple pairs & would be happy to help out.

:EDIT:
\\!//
3/19/19

As much as I think this IS a serious question.

Based on the lack of interaction from the person "Krista"
As well as the "Kent CT" attribution, I live very close to there & after 19 years & as many attempts to entice someone. anyone to climb there ~ I think that we may have been drawn out by a troll.

That said, given how many & who else is in search & the responses from well-respected climbers posting,,, I have found that by adding a stiff footbed to shoes around as size larger than I have previously worn I have been able to climb comfortably on terrain ranging from "approach-slab" up thru the sweet spot; just "off vertical" to the goal of 100 feet of sustained, slightly overhanging, foot intensive 5.10.
I normally pay dearly:
My recuperation after a 5 hour day has been foot cramps that lock & dislocate my toes.
I'm still very into climbing.
My feet? not so much!

Sized up from 40/40.5 To 41.5, then a tongue-depressor, popsicle stick re-enforced footbed. I have also tried every variation of 'fanned', not crossed, 'in patterns' of the thin wooden re-eb=nforcements.
I have tried footbed inserts of various thickness/stiffness. Cut to fit, inserted and a touch of silicon-based adhesive, that stays flexible, applied to the heel portion of the footbed.

skywalker1

Trad climber
co
Mar 18, 2019 - 12:25pm PT
Slipper type shoe, they tend to stretch. Perhaps the ones with velcro if you need to crank it down or wear it loose on the one foot? Scarpa tends to be a bit wide on the toe box.

My 2 cents.

Good luck!

S...

Edit: We need a TR for what you came up with ;-)
fear

Ice climber
hartford, ct
Mar 18, 2019 - 12:37pm PT
I'm in a similar boat with size 13's... very narrow heel, high arch and a wide toebox... I've been using La Sportiva Mythos recently with good results... The front seems to stretch very well over a few weeks although they are uncomfortable initially...

Edited... Mythos is the corrected name
G_Gnome

Trad climber
Cali
Mar 18, 2019 - 04:31pm PT
Really Fear, when was the last time you actually climbed rock? La Sportiva never made Moccasyms.

I'll say it again here. The Butora Endeavor Moss Wide Fit are great. I'm a 4E and can wear them comfortable right off the rack.

https://www.hmhoutdoors.com/endeavor-moss-wide-fit/
Jan

Mountain climber
Colorado & Nepal
Mar 18, 2019 - 06:08pm PT
I have the same feet and I wouldn't recommend Mythos. The first time I wore mine, my feet were in so much pain it took two oxycontin to be able to sleep that night. Maybe they would stretch out in a few weeks but I'm not wearing them again! I do have arthritis in my feet but still ?
nah000

climber
now/here
Mar 18, 2019 - 06:44pm PT
i suspect if the pain is as bad as you say it is that you may have to either go the custom route [pro or home job] or stick with sticky rubber soled approach shoes... problem is it’s basically antithetical for a performance climbing shoe to not put pressure just at the base of your pinkie toe in order to keep the rest of your toes jammed into place...

so keep trying off the shelf, and the folks above seem to have a bunch of good suggestions... but if they still surpass your pain threshold you may have to buy some used and/or cheap shoes and get out an exacto knife and start cutting a hole where your pressure point is. also and if you’ve got the coin there is at least one person that at least within the last couple of years was doing fully custom lasted shoes that you could try as well...

and if all that fails you might be down to sticky rubber soled approach shoes.

good luck!
TradMike

Trad climber
Cincinnati, Ohio
Mar 18, 2019 - 07:02pm PT
La Sportiva Mytho are by far the best for a form to your foot shoe when you have a wide foot and the front of your foot is much wider than the rest. The all leather upper with a unique lacing system allows expansion anywhere and is the best I have ever seen. Whomever dreamed up that shoe I have great respect. If you need a great way to break them in listen up. Buy some algenate, get a hard but flexible plastic trey or build one slightly larger than your foot. Make sure to lather your foot up with some sort of release agent. Mix up the rapid set alginate. Put your foot in the tray. Now the important part, squeeze your toes together as hard as you can and pour the alginate over your foot and let cure being sure to hold your toes together as tight as you can the entire set time. Pull your foot out once set. Now you can mix up some cement or grout and make a casting of your feet. Put those cement feet in your shoes and lace up tight. Spray with some water and let them dry out slowly in a controlled fashion. Let those cement feet sit in there for a while or when not using them. Voilà, the most comfortable shoes you're ever have in your life. I found that if you hold your foot in a position that you typically climb and it's hovering in the alginate and not standing on the bottom of the container works best.

If it doesn't quite do it for your pinky toe, you can build up the pinky toe on your model and bump that spot out a little more in the shoe.
Pennsylenvy

Gym climber
A dingy corner in your refrigerator
Mar 18, 2019 - 10:29pm PT
So is this an enlarged enflamed metatarsal? When I was a lifty at Jackson, we wore ski boots ALL DAY ! One thing I learned might seem counter intuitive but; the looser fitting the shoe/boot is the more aggravation it MAY....cause. I have had this super painful shooting pain many times in my life, for me its something too loose/giving. Last problem I had was with mytho's . My bone spur poked thru the shoe and it was over. The pain arrived.

For laughs, one day working the lift, BITD one of the revolutionary snowboard kids came thru and asked how his favorite lifty was doing . Honestly, I said I was in excruciating pain from my bone spur. Next round thru, that little goateed cool kid gave me a little packet of tin foil and said 'Hey this will help'. At that time in Jackson KGB was not around every corner. I learned for that particular ailment it was like night or day; a little puff and there was instantaneous relief. I have fond memories of that guy for sure:)

My go to shoe for this condition is the TC pro. Wide supportive ( and compacting) footbox. Good Luck !
Messages 1 - 13 of total 13 in this topic
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