Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
Rudder
Trad climber
Costa Mesa, CA
|
|
|
Feb 27, 2019 - 02:58am PT
|
that speech sucked monkey balls.
Now here's a speech worth watching from the same night:
[Click to View YouTube Video]
|
|
Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
|
|
|
Feb 27, 2019 - 04:13am PT
|
Jim, she didn't say, "This climb would be so boring without you." She said, "This film...." she knows movies, what works, what sells; she did the same thing with "Meru" after Chin asked for her help.
Her comments were directed to the Academy, which gave the award. The campaigning for an award is so fierce, every thing matters, just like hard climbing. Clearing, Sanni's role was decisive.
Anyway, as a climbing movie, I found "The Dawn Wall" much more interesting than "Free Solo." The most interesting issue Honnold faces, in my opinion, was the relaxation of certainty in climbing the slab. While "How certain is good enough" is the most important issue in free soloing, this only received passing notice in "Free Solo." Too bad, given that the issue was shown more light in Alex' book.
The whole process of free soloing is mental until the act itself, Hamlet like--"...Readiness is all...."--whereas a big climb like the Dawn Wall all-free is a mix of internal struggles and action the whole way through.
Given the box office receipts, I'm clearly in the minority.
|
|
A Essex
climber
|
|
|
Feb 27, 2019 - 07:13am PT
|
Chai 'doesn;t give a fvck about climbing' - her own words
but she does seem to have a crush on Sanni
|
|
AE
climber
Boulder, CO
|
|
|
Mar 22, 2019 - 12:52pm PT
|
It's absurdly apropos that this thread has some 34 ticks to date, while the one about "Hardest 5.8 at J Tree" was 98+.
At least herein, climbers represent as sport-centric morons, by and large.
I was very surprised other more mainstream Documentaries, particularly, RBG, lost to what I felt was a neck-in-neck tie for best overall rock climbing film of all time, nothing else even close. Hollywood efforts always embarrass the blokes who get hired to work as high-risk grips, and the sad demise of Gullich, driving home after finishing the abominable Cliffhanger, should serve as a testament, regarding what one'e efforts leave as an inadvertent epitaph to a life's pursuit.
Climbers reacted differently to the Dawn Wall movie. I guessed its original budget was pretty minuscule, and got amped up as they garnered historic publicity and built tension as the top seemed attainable, but far from certain. Its emphasis on the team over a single person's talent seems old-fashioned, yet honest; the back story history was too belabored, clearly as filler to make a feature length, and it diminished the focus.
Free Solo was well-balanced, cohesively strong on Alex as the star figure, but providing compelling human perspectives, and what I especially appreciated, the near-total lack of typical machismo chest thumping by the crew. Their sober aspects underscored the seriousness of the effort more than any words, or images.
They mostly kept it real, exploring Alex's personal vision without bombast, contrived metaphorical gibberish about "Human Advancement" or other "For the Fatherland" manifestos. Perhaps Oscar voters have grown jaded with the usual self-righteous, Worthy Cause documentaries that serve up genuine suffering or calamities, but from First World crews who have safe homes to return to afterwards. Every complicated agenda rings hollow, in the face of a solitary individual dedicated entirely to an unimaginable quest, and that was essentially the winning element in Free Solo.
|
|
Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
|
|
|
Mar 22, 2019 - 08:46pm PT
|
It's absurdly apropos that this thread has some 34 ticks to date, while the one about "Hardest 5.8 at J Tree" was 98+.
At least herein, climbers represent as sport-centric morons, by and large.
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=3121266&tn=900
I'm kinda pullin' for the "hardest 5.8 at J Tree" to hit a 1000 posts...
Ha ha.
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!