Discussion Topic |
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| Messages 1 - 16 of total 16 in this topic |
ron gomez
Trad climber
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Feb 21, 2019 - 07:48pm PT
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By the true ridge...I think yes. Maybe Jim can chime in.....when he finishes his current trip.
Peace
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hacky47
Trad climber
goldhill
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Feb 21, 2019 - 08:21pm PT
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nahhh...still unclimbed
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Feb 21, 2019 - 08:33pm PT
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Still unclimbed to the summit as I understand the saga but the Italian Stallion will give us the straight hoof...
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Feb 21, 2019 - 09:42pm PT
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hey there say, johntp... say, me, of course-- non climber, never
heard of this...
thanks for sharing...
hope to see more pics... :)
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Feb 22, 2019 - 04:18am PT
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Interesting timing for this thread...George Lowe is with me in Patagonia and Thomas Huber just e-mailed about his Latok intentions for this year.
The Russians made remarkable climbs both last year and in 2017. Until 2017 no one had come within 2,000 vertical feet of our 1978 climb. It appears that Gukov and Glazunov reached the top or near the top of the NR in bad weather and were unable to summit...a truly outstanding climb. How Tom Livingstone (of the Slovenian/Welsh team), who did not climb on the upper part of the NR, could criticize them for moving too slowly is beyond me.
Despite the valiant effort of the Russians the NR remains unfinished...an alpine climb needs a summit to be complete. The Slovenian/Welsh climb to the summit, again a great achievement, was a combination of the NF and the south side of Latok and to my mind leaves Latok unclimbed from the north side. This is also Thomas Hubers conclusion as he returns again to Latok’s north side to attempt a new route to the left of the NR and bring closure to the Latok 1 saga.
George Lowe and I along with eight other American climbers arrive in Skardu the same time as Huber. We will be going to a climber’s camp on the upper reaches of the Biafo to feast on the alpine banquet there while Thomas and his team attempt Latok one valley away. Best wishes to Thomas and kudos to the Russian, Sliovenian and Welsh climbers last year. Extreme alpinism encompasses a small cadre of climbers who march to the same drumbeat.
George and I, meanwhile, are going into the Avellano Towers in a couple of days to try to steal victory from the jaws of defeat during a marginal weather window.
Well, there it is, my view on some remarkable climbing last year in a crucible of world Alpinism. I often wonder why I bother as this thread will fast disappear from the front page while the demise of a member of the Monkees will remain front and center.
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steveA
Trad climber
Wolfeboro, NH
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Feb 22, 2019 - 04:26am PT
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Jim,
Hope you both have a great climb. Your combined experience must beat any other 2 party team in history!
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urban burnout
Mountain climber
industrial park
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Feb 22, 2019 - 06:14am PT
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that's rad that ya'll have mustard up rules of the game like for sample a climb doesn't register if the summit and you never met. i 'cept that, whole hardheartedly. like i did all the beginning and middle of the climb but i didn't do the last bit, cause f*#kall i was tired and the stars were showing up, cold.
i got the other void, though. like so many of my climbs i did visit the summit, but i was f*#king absent thru the climb's mid-section. strung out on worry or fear; just overly engaged with the process. my ghost lead the hard pitches and it's shadow showed up on the summit.
i didn't succeed on those climbs either.
jim i'd love to share a nip some day. or i'll just partake alone while reading one of your stellar essays, essay.
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johntp
Trad climber
Punter
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 22, 2019 - 02:32pm PT
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donini-
Thanks for your input. Seems strange such a significant route hasn't been completed given the talent out there.
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ecdh
climber
the east
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Feb 22, 2019 - 03:00pm PT
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Excellent post Jim tho 1 thing I contest - an alpine route needs a RETURN to be complete as I believe Doug Scott argued.
Great that you guys are making yearly trips to the place. Sh#t like this is built on a lot of simply observing.
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ron gomez
Trad climber
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Feb 22, 2019 - 07:03pm PT
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Well I’m not Neebs, but I fully enjoyed that John! Thanks for putting that up. Donini and his crew had some kind of vision and balls! Imagine getting to the base and going, “yeah let’s get on this!”
Peace
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Feb 22, 2019 - 08:10pm PT
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The Freakin' A Team folks!
If Jeff's health hadn't taken a turn this would have been the best effort by an American crew from that era. Funny thing is the actual summit didn't end up mattering that much considering the quality of the teamwork and nobility of effort. It isn't the summit alone that counts but how you get there- the old school credo.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Feb 23, 2019 - 04:12am PT
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41 years later George Lowe and I are still tying in together. We’re heading out today on a five day quest today to put up a new route in the Avellano Towers in Patagonia...more later!
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ron gomez
Trad climber
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Feb 23, 2019 - 07:29am PT
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Have fun, be safe...my friend.
Peace
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johntp
Trad climber
Punter
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 23, 2019 - 06:03pm PT
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Well I’m not Neebs,
You sure about that? I've been wondering....
Seriously though, the mountains in that video are spectacular.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J0vIqMsU8dg
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| Messages 1 - 16 of total 16 in this topic |
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