Snow day is Yo day

Discussion Topic

Return to Forum List

This thread has been locked

Messages 1 - 5 of total 5 in this topic

Jim Hornibrook

Trad climber

Redwood City, CA

Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 13, 2018 - 09:18am PT

Oh how I wish I could be a dirt bag climber...to leave the nine to five grind behind, buy a white Sprinter and travel for months at a time, taking days off only to drive to different crags and let the skin on my fingers heal.

But that mortgage isn't going to pay itself...and my cats are rather cute...and let's not forget the awesome wife I share my life with.

So, like many of us, I train mornings, work days and scrounge together as many day and weekend trips as I can. This lack of commitment to a true climber lifestyle more often than not leads to mediocre flailing on moderates, but I will say that each day I spend in the hills is a day well lived.

Akiko and I planned to climb a couple of weeks ago. It had stormed heavily the few days before and the forecast promised cold and clouds. Sounded like a good day to aid climb where heavy clothing and gloves don't get in the way. A trip up to Sickle Ledge on the Nose sounded like a fun plan.

As my VW Rabbit isn't four wheel drive we planned on driving in via 140; however, a quick check of my phone as we drove through Manteca showed that 140 was closed. 120 it is. I was a bit concerned about my car getting through. I had thrown my CRV's chains into the car the night before, knowing full well they wouldn't fit. I figured I could at least flash them to any rangers we came across to show them that we were prepared. The road was indeed pretty icy and snowy by the time we entered the park and the ranger at the entrance signaled that we should pull over the put our chains on. I nodded in agreement, but kept going sans chains.
Slow and steady got us safely to El Cap meadow where the car's thermometer read a toasty 22F
We threw hand warmers in our pockets and toe warmers into our shoes, racked up and headed to the base of Pine Line.
As the sun came out it melted the summit ice and we put on our helmets to protect from the frozen assault. As it's a big slab above us, the large chunks of ice pulverized into ice cube sized pieces (usually) by the time they hit us, but it is still a little disconcerting to be leading and suddenly get beamed with a small chunk of ice.

The first pitch of the Nose is a funky one, a strange mixture of jamming, stemming and pulling on gear. I am not a strong free climber so the aiders came out about half way up the pitch.
Akiko quickly jugged the pitch and I led the second which begins with some fun free moves and then a pendulum to some aiding up pin scars to the belay ledge.
Thus far the temperature was in the mid 30's but the sun was out and there was no wind so it was quite tolerable. As I waited for Akiko to clean the second pitch the sun was hidden by cloud and the wind started up and the fun was quickly turning to type two. We drank the last of our hot cocoa and decided it was time to head down.
[photoid=546288]I was bummed that Akiko didn't get to lead any aid as she needs practice in this arena. But I knew we would return next week...

The next week found us on the first four pitches of the Salathe Wall. I wanted to make sure Akiko did some aiding so she planned to lead pitches one and four, while I would do two and three. The temperature was a good 10 degrees warmer than the previous trip and the snow in the valley had melted, but it was still fairly cold. Akiko cruised the first pitch, maybe not setting any speed records but she was safe and smooth.
We didn't bring any jumars this time as I wanted to free the pitches she led (I'm a top rope hero). I guess it's a soft 10c as I got it clean. The second pitch is super fun wide hands and over far too quickly. The third pitch looks super hard to free climb, but C1 for mortals like me.
A few small cams and stoppers got me around the roof where the angle lessens and it's great free climbing up to the belay at a nice little stance.

Akiko quickly joined me and looked up at her next lead. I recommended that she free the first 20', put in a piece and then face traverse left into the 10c crack where she could break out her aiders and get some practice in. She racked up, grabbing every cam we brought. As we were aiding we had triples in aliens and doubles in offset X4's. She probably had 20 lbs of cams...she was hell bent on not running out of pro. She started the pitch with a tinge of reticence but was soon at the traverse point.
Hanging from a green alien, Akiko surveyed the face. I suggested traversing low so she would be on top rope. She agreed and started climbing. After a couple moves she started slowly upward. Sensing her nervousness, I tried to comfort her by repeating that she's safe and on top rope. She gave me a funny look as she clearly knew she was several feet above her last pro but kept moving regardless.

After reaching the 10c crack I waited for her to bring out her aiders but she put in a piece and broke out a free move, stemming gracefully on either side of the crack. This was followed by another free move and another cam placement. I could see the gears turning in Akiko's head as she kept moving upward without her aiders.
While she plugged in quite a number of cams, she managed to get send the pitch free. And while I was super proud of her leading her first 10c, ironically we had come here to get some aid practice in. She did admit to pulling on one piece so I suppose some aid practice happened after all.
The day passed quickly and it was time to rap down and make the long drive home.
Damn, climbing is fun!!!!