Mt Alberta West-Face: First Ascent with Raphael Slawinski


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Messages 1 - 13 of total 13 in this topic

New Zealand
Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 23, 2018 - 12:08am PT
The first ascent of Mt Alberta's West Face (V 5.10+) was made in September 2007 by Raphael Slawinski and Eamonn Walsh.

This is arguably Alberta's most obscure route and finding something new to offer proved most frustrating. So once again I headed to the source. Raphael was both amenable and generous, allowing me access to a number of outstanding photos from the first ascent. (All photo comments be Raphael)

With the expressed permission of Raphael Slawinski
Happy Cowboy

Social climber
Boz MT
Nov 23, 2018 - 04:16am PT
Thanks Avery for your interest in the Canadian Rockies, and also Raphael and Eamon for their route and photos. Looks like they enjoyed beautiful weather.

Avery, the Boardman books you sent me continue to be enjoyed and shared locally. Thanks so much. Currently Dougal McCarty has “Sacred Summits” and Pat Callas requested “Shining Mountain”. They’re making the climber rounds! Thanks and hope you’re well. Donnie Black
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Nov 23, 2018 - 07:22am PT
How many pitches is the route and how many are 5.10?
Bad Climber

Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
Nov 23, 2018 - 07:50am PT
Thanks, Avery. Such badassedness. I just don't know how folks keep their sh*t together on those mega loose choss piles. I did a little of it BITD, but never enjoyed it. The views and mystique of the Rockies are amazing, however.


Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Nov 23, 2018 - 11:07am PT
Given the history of climing there...e.g. George Lowe “5.9” routes from the 70’s, there are likely pitches on this new climb that are harder than 5.10.
Eric Beck

Sport climber
Bishop, California
Nov 23, 2018 - 01:38pm PT
In the last picture, ...starting the descent toward the Japanese Route, do we see North Twin to the left?

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Nov 23, 2018 - 01:39pm PT
Yes we do - the Boss of Choss as Domngo so astutely put it.

New Zealand
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 24, 2018 - 02:31pm PT

American Alpine Journal 2008
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Nov 24, 2018 - 02:34pm PT
Another Alpine Gem Avery!
Glad to have you back in the mix again, mate.
Tom Patterson

Trad climber
Nov 24, 2018 - 03:03pm PT
Nice! And so much ch-ch-ch-choss!!

Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
Nov 24, 2018 - 03:49pm PT
Thanks. Great write-up by Raphael in the AAJ.

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Nov 24, 2018 - 07:15pm PT
The best TR ever! Thanks.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Nov 27, 2018 - 07:36pm PT
Scary choss, big face - masters only!
Thanks for putting this together.
Messages 1 - 13 of total 13 in this topic
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