Camalots, anyone else had this issue

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ecdh

climber
the east
Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 19, 2018 - 05:57pm PT
I'm outta the loop so forgive me if this has already been addressed and please point me in the best direction:

Aiding at 4750m in Tibet this happened. Previously were fine but only normal trade use.
Serials between 8159A and 8346A.

Sorry for shite photo quality.

donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Nov 19, 2018 - 06:47pm PT
The best direction is Black Diamond customer service...they have always been helpful to me.
AP

Trad climber
Calgary
Nov 19, 2018 - 07:04pm PT
I know this is obvious but maybe due to the cold?
Kalimon

Social climber
Ridgway, CO
Nov 19, 2018 - 07:52pm PT
Shite cable coating quality!

Those plastic edges can be sharp.
NutAgain!

Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
Nov 20, 2018 - 07:28am PT
Seems like a trade off for being tough enough at normal climbing temps vs not being too brittle in cold weather. Maybe they should have a coating range for different temps like surf wax. But then how many crazy people would buy the cold weather version?

;)
AP

Trad climber
Calgary
Nov 20, 2018 - 10:12am PT
Donini would
Jon Beck

Trad climber
Oceanside
Nov 20, 2018 - 10:48am PT
The original Camalots came with bare cables. A fat wad of duct tape will fix it. The next generation of Camalots came with a piece of plastic that covered the wire.

edit: or just clip it with a biner
Bale

Mountain climber
UT
Nov 20, 2018 - 02:32pm PT
“I’m outta the loop”, indeed, in more ways than one:)
BD is pretty solid with warranties, let us know what you find.
GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
Nov 20, 2018 - 03:14pm PT
breakalots
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
Nov 20, 2018 - 03:38pm PT
cut those old slings off and the loose pieces off and clip a draw on it.
ecdh

climber
the east
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 20, 2018 - 06:13pm PT
Appreciate the pragmatic replies.

Yes onto BD when back home.

It wasn't actually that cold when climbing, but very cold the rest of the time. Aliens, metolius, totems seem unaffected. Will check larger sizes tho we didn't really use them/freed the hand widths.

Yes will just clip em. Really just wondering if this had been raised ages ago and I'd missed an 'everyone knows that' detail.

'Outta the loop' ha yes, Freudian spot.
johnkelley

climber
Anchorage Alaska
Nov 21, 2018 - 10:36am PT
It’s impossible to say without photos of the route?


Hey what do you consider “very cold”? Like Alaska winter time cold? Just curious, it shouldn’t matter. Your gear shouldn’t break because it’s cold...
hooblie

climber
from out where the anecdotes roam
Nov 21, 2018 - 03:41pm PT
ecdh

climber
the east
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 21, 2018 - 04:30pm PT
JK, day temps to just above freezing, nights -20c. Def not cold enough for problems I think.
As Moose points out, other places way colder. No other plastics seem affected.

CCmn, cams within 5 years old. Noticed them disintegrating when standing on them but wasn't at the coldest times at all, could be they were affected before...?

No route shots till we finish it ;) let's just say stunning, tho we are a man down, making the unsupported approach very dark indeed. headed back out in a week after rest for another round.

If anyone's hanging around China with the gear and will there's a place open. All the yak you can eat.
WBraun

climber
Nov 21, 2018 - 05:01pm PT
UV degradation and or sh!tty materials .... ??
Jon Beck

Trad climber
Oceanside
Nov 21, 2018 - 05:20pm PT
Ozone degradation, were they stored near any large electric motors
johnkelley

climber
Anchorage Alaska
Nov 21, 2018 - 05:54pm PT
Where I China? I’m unemployed until spring... what are the prices like?
ecdh

climber
the east
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 22, 2018 - 05:43pm PT
Re various degradation; its some sort but they've just not had that much use, nothing abnormal. Like most of us I've seen fixed camalots left for years on routes and they've not had this issue.
The plastic is easily pulled off with fingers.
Ozone an interesting thought tho, will check.
ecdh

climber
the east
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 22, 2018 - 06:01pm PT
JK, Sichuan - Tibet border, charlie fowler territory very much so.
Its not India cheap, but then we've got a good relationship for logistics, LO, permits etc. Its too cold to dirt bag things. Several objective options, style is pretty much walls, unsupported, to about 6000m, new routes. But open to any ideas that work.

Find you way to chengdu. A lot of the gear here, just need a few things like some cams....

COT

climber
Door Number 3
Nov 23, 2018 - 03:45am PT
If you end up in the Genyen region there's plenty to climb
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