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deschamps
Gym climber
Flagstaff, AZ
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Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 16, 2018 - 09:24pm PT
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I recently saw a video on the process of freeing a route on the Misty Wall as part of the Adidas Legacy Project in Yosemite. I can't find the video online but information is here.
Overall great idea but it all seemed very contrived. Almost all of the crux gear seemed to have been preplaced on rappel on the hard pitches. Was it even the climbers that preplaced the gear or their crew? Most of the anchors seemed to have been built in advance for the climbers to ease their progress, again probably by the rigging crew. Marcus Garcia raps in and meets the climbers halfway up the climb to lead the run-out pitches then jugs out and meets the climbers up top. He doesn't even get to climb the whole route with the Adidas athletes.
So Adidas has gear preplaced, anchor stations pre-built, and a guest appearance by a local badass for a couple of pitches so that the Adidas athletes don't have to lead the runout climbing. This seems to me like the dumbing down of a climb to maximize exposure for Adidas athletes. Technically I suppose it's a send and Adidas gets to claim the FFA by their athletes but this seems like rather weak sauce. Thoughts?
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Nov 16, 2018 - 10:20pm PT
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I saw a presentation by John Long and Marcus in Ouray about this project. Seems like they are trying to mentor some good and willing sport climbers into trad...sounds pretty cool to me.
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Jon Beck
Trad climber
Oceanside
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Nov 17, 2018 - 06:22am PT
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Just a matter of style. The pink point will be followed by a red point. Then maybe a hex only ascent. Finally Alex will solo it.
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