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couchmaster
climber
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Nov 14, 2018 - 03:10pm PT
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Can one of you hook Pam up with this Kong Panic quickdraw. Works fantastic.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GUL83D4/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It comes in 2 lengths, the longest must be @ 1 foot or more. It stays in the open position until the hanger touches the back and then WHAM! it closes right up and you're going.
Or in the old days, folks would just tie off a long 1" runner and leave it for the next short folks that were following Kor, Long and the other big dudes.
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Nov 14, 2018 - 04:19pm PT
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I have been using stiffend extended 'draws for decades.
The trip-closing 'bienr, is the same,
not always needed but nice,
Using paint stirring sticks, sandwiched togetherOr hollow tubing & tape (shorter black 'draw)
you can make the same thing.
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Russ Walling
Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
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Nov 14, 2018 - 06:23pm PT
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Please tell me Edl is still safely tucked away in a padded cell somewhere and this is not his doing...
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couchmaster
climber
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Nov 15, 2018 - 06:15am PT
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Zardoz, was the "WHY" part of this bolt chopping ever established?
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Nov 15, 2018 - 07:10am PT
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Chop them all - let god sort it out.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Nov 15, 2018 - 07:13am PT
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Working on the “why”....
I don’t seem. To be able to ‘share’ and link the fb post here....
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caughtinside
Social climber
Oakland, CA
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Nov 15, 2018 - 08:22am PT
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Seems personal!
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A Essex
climber
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Nov 15, 2018 - 09:03am PT
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there's gunna be a hangin...
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Largo
Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
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Nov 15, 2018 - 09:22am PT
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"Correcting" a route established by someone else is always a mess. It's just that for the lack of anything better to do, a mess is an option, especially when egos and status are involved. Then it gets ugly - fast. Imagined ownership, pride, tattered relationships - these often get hauled up the wall like a string of rusty cans clipped to the haul line. So much for "getting above it all."
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i'm gumby dammit
Sport climber
da ow
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Nov 15, 2018 - 09:37am PT
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The Ryan from the movie?
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Nov 15, 2018 - 09:56am PT
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Shiteskees
We all know how super-glue works . . .
apply 2 bolt hangers to shoulders,
Take care to place them nearer to the spine to avoid the dreaded 'Murican triangle...
"Chop This" written in sharpie? that might be a tad to far. . .
It worked on the eastcoastaszhole, who's name shall not be used
dulgudurd
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Nov 15, 2018 - 11:06am PT
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too bad,
there is so much to do out there, if you want to make a statement it would seem that the best way to do it has always been to put up another route, in the style acceptable to you, that is much better than the one you would criticize.
there is no lack of potential lines to make such statements on, and such a better way to advocate for your own style
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Jon Beck
Trad climber
Oceanside
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Nov 15, 2018 - 11:21am PT
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Keep On Chopping
- R. Krum
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Jim Clipper
climber
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Nov 15, 2018 - 11:38am PT
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Too far apart... largo and ed for the win. (a far aside?, no mind... just making myself laugh.)
Seriously, hope there is some resolution. Shouldn't be hard to find some solace (perspective?) in a big desert, to scratch up some respect for the effort to make it out there. Climbers/climbs at that level, in that fragile an environment, are a rare breed. Why not tread more softly, appreciate the gifts, however fleeting?
Finally, the effort has costs. Seeing the support of La Sportiva more than suggests that the value was there. The extraneous stuff just detracts from it, and more than just the target ends up paying.
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Alexey
climber
San Jose, CA
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Nov 15, 2018 - 01:33pm PT
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I went to Pamela FB to find who chopped the route and found funny comments from the jerk who recently chopped bolt on Maxine wall , posted TR on ST wrote a big shitty poem about his chopping.
Now he is giving advice what to do if your route is chopped:
Jim Hornibrook become household name for chopper who can not climb anymore the route he just chopped.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Nov 15, 2018 - 03:22pm PT
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Doesn’t look that dangerous, does he?
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Nov 15, 2018 - 05:23pm PT
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Agreed!
Cheers!
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Jim Clipper
climber
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Nov 15, 2018 - 06:00pm PT
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This probably will get me denied a cup of coffee. Anyone tried to check in on the unabomber? Really, I say that with respect. He must have had some skills to hang with that crowd.
It seems that this could play out on the intardwebs in a way that may feel one sided. No reason to push someone in a corner. Gender politics aren't uncommon in climbing either. Hearing that the chopper once shared a rope sheds some light. No matter how wrong, the party should maybe be listened to. Especially some while after spurting out a rant. From the video, it seems that there once was some respect given.
Finally, I've been younger than I hopefully am these days. Most importantly, I'm not climbed, so maybe consider this advice from a priest/sex therapist. 12+ off width is a very small world. I think that there is more than one here who set standards, heard similar "debates". In the end maybe its the partners who are remembered. The rock and some routes are still there (mostly). New wave? #gointoheighties Hope all parties end up in a good place. No packages please.
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jsj
climber
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Nov 15, 2018 - 08:35pm PT
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Regarding the OP: Yeah those bolts were chopped. There are several solid reasons and having climbed the pitch I agree with the decision 100%:
1) The bolts were bad: Ancient 1/4-inchers.
2) They were poorly installed: Studs protruding as far as 1 inch from the rock. Not only were they unreliable, but they created a safety hazard for the climber - the possibity of flaying open your body on the sharp studs in the event of a slip or fall was very real.
3) They were poorly located - on the left wall of a left-side-in OW - perhaps awkward to clip but moreover jamming into one’s back and shoulder when climbing past them.
4) They were completely unnecessary: The pitch is perfectly protected by a #4/#5 Camalot which can be slid up the crack with you through this section. They didn’t really even save you from having to haul a large piece as most climbers would bring these cams on the route even with the bolts.
Perhaps even more so than those long-forgotten chopped bolts on The Good Book, I see no reason why the removal of these should be questioned - that pitch is safer, more enjoyable, more aesthetic... better in every way now.
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Nov 15, 2018 - 09:00pm PT
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jsj,
yes all of that was clearly stated.
What is being discussed is the lack of respect,. A seemingly personal attack. It is the insult in the way the actions & the subsequent defensive of the vandalism have occured.
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