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NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
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Nov 12, 2018 - 10:55pm PT
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Tiffypoo- looks like a good one to try and push the wide grades.
Jaybro, let me know when you’re coming through and in need of a belay slave. I can probably rearrange work and get a day out to Vegas.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Nov 13, 2018 - 08:48am PT
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Yes that’s what started this
exploration
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Nov 13, 2018 - 09:59am PT
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Don’t know the Knight😎. What I heard a rumor of was something more recent where someone might have chopped All the bolts, belay bolts too. From what I gather, cprop just removed some bad pro bolts that were halfway out, that you don’t need...
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WBraun
climber
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Nov 13, 2018 - 10:16am PT
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Another weird one I always remember is when someone chops the bolts to replace them with better new ones.
The original bolt was placed in the wrong place and the replacement was replaced in the same st00pid place as the original, lol.
Just like American politards ......
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mike a.
Sport climber
ca
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Nov 13, 2018 - 10:17am PT
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This woman is hard core!!! that was an awesome video fun to watch, She sure is a brave and awesome climber :-) Love this stuff!!! thanks for sharing.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Nov 13, 2018 - 12:51pm PT
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As an aside, I’ve led that pitch where she had repeated trouble clipping. And the ‘ special draw’ came unclipped, from the rack and bonked her at a hebelay!. I thought it was a rock but when I got to the bolt, I didn’t have the magic tool😱! As I’m seven inches taller than her and have a plus four ape index, it wasn’t as bad for me but I did have to lock off in the
Middle of a ~5.10 move and make the the clip! Then almost do the hard move it protects, before falling off. Good times!!
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couchmaster
climber
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Nov 13, 2018 - 03:38pm PT
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Love that vid Zardoz. Where she clips the bolt and makes that move at @ 9min is some great film, solid climbing too. That woman is strong. The struggle is real!
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
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Nov 13, 2018 - 04:28pm PT
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9:36 is pretty cool seeing the dyno transition from hand-fist stack to maximal cupped-hand-ish and gaston. Wow, that sentence would be indecipherable to a non-climber.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Nov 13, 2018 - 06:10pm PT
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what was more impressive about The Kill Artist was seeing Pam at night after her repeated attempts, totally beat up and spent, but going out the next day and getting on it.
Props to her, and her vision. Too bad someone felt threatened by it and decided to chop it.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Nov 13, 2018 - 06:18pm PT
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And yeah, Dingus I assume that bolt has been chopped. Although I don’t know what “ “chopped” really means ( hangers removed, the whole thing beat to death with a sledge hammer, cones left it and patched over. Somehow I think the violence of the act in this case makes the probability of patching, unlikely. It’s not like it was something done out of a want to preserve the rock) untill we go up and look.
What’s with people, these days?
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Jim Clipper
climber
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Nov 13, 2018 - 06:29pm PT
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at least they waited to chop after she finished it, but still... Her explanation of the hospital visit was enough for me. IMHO, very polite of her to take the time to make a small hole in the rock for others. Without an anonymous video of a boltless ascent, seems a little disrespectful too.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Nov 13, 2018 - 07:38pm PT
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Um no, there was one more pitch to go to the summit, we were going to go up there this weekend. Then the manifest o arrived. He poached the last pitch. Then chopped it and the rest.
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Jim Clipper
climber
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Nov 13, 2018 - 07:48pm PT
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My 2 cents. Few folks could ever get in that rig, why not be civil? Bad style on the choppers part. Seems like a big desert. Go crap in your own sandbox. Kudos to you and yours jaybro, or is that her and her's.
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Aeriq
Social climber
Location: It's a MisterE
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Nov 13, 2018 - 07:54pm PT
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Jay, from the video, it just looked like a really long 1/2" 5-piece Powers bolt.
"Chopping" in this sense just means removing the bolt from the wedged plug & sleeve.
Sleeved wedge anchors and glue-ins are the only bolts that are truly "chopped" these days.
A sad affair all around, and hope this trend is somehow curtailed.
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Alexey
climber
San Jose, CA
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Nov 13, 2018 - 09:33pm PT
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choppers are climbers who can not climb anymore, but have huge ego.
choppers are dicks who want to spray no matter what
choppers are evil and stupid
I do not know any woman who chopped or want to chop.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Nov 14, 2018 - 04:48am PT
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Да!
Правда!
I hope you’re right aeriq! As I’ve said a few times in this, and the fb thread we won’t know what “chopped” means in this context, until someone’s gone up there and looks, and right now there is a madman with guns, guarding it. What you say would seem the most likely scenario, but considering the anger and bile involved I wouldn’t be surprised to find a sledge hammered mess.
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couchmaster
climber
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Nov 14, 2018 - 05:12am PT
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Jay, is there a link where this angry discourse is being flung around for those of us who don't know whats what? I try not to be judgemental on things I don't know about, but it's difficult at times, like now.
Jaybro said:"Um no, there was one more pitch to go to the summit, we were going to go up there this weekend. Then the manifest o arrived. He poached the last pitch. Then chopped it and the rest."
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Nov 14, 2018 - 06:02am PT
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yes, As Couchy says
please spill this whole unpleasant sounding story here
or provide a clear link or set of links that will put out all the particulars.
somebodyanybody,
when 6 people are working on free-ing a route
It was a part of the unspoken, common decency to leave off weaker styled ascents. Allowing time, years if need be for the free team to get it done.
That brutha Jay was Kind and used "poached" was to try to avoid calling sum ph`kR a thief
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Nov 14, 2018 - 02:57pm PT
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Somebdy, Kill Artist, not unfinished symphony
Zardoz, a request like that on the Fb thread might induce her to share the manifesto!
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