Adam Ondra Update

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BruceHildenbrand

Social climber

Mountain View/Boulder

Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 16, 2018 - 01:37pm PT

I was watching the monthly IFSC climbing show on TV and in an interview with Adam Ondra, it appears that in the coming year he will be focusing on competition climbing rather than climbing outdoors. It sounds like he wants to be there in Tokyo 2020 for the first ever Olympic climbing events.

BTW, the Russians are dominating the speed climbing competitions in both genders. They are fast!

Mei

Trad climber

mxi2000.net

Oct 16, 2018 - 01:44pm PT

The RunOut #6: Olympic Dreaming podcast is not about Adam Ondra, but it has good information on climbing in Olympic and does mention him. I learned quite a bit regarding the competition format from it.

Splater

climber

Grey Matter

Oct 16, 2018 - 05:02pm PT

I see that the kleptos at the IOC and IFSC are now resorting to lies to promote the non-climbing charade that is the speed event.
They claim it is the fastest growing type of climbing as if that were something worthwhile.

Looking at the percent of time that the speed wall at Mesa Rim is in use over the last several years or the percent of climbers who pursue this silly tangent of running up the same exact route, I'd say it's about 1%.

stevep

Boulder climber

Salt Lake, UT

Oct 16, 2018 - 05:22pm PT

Totally agreed on the speed thing. There's a huge wall at my local gym that has nothing on it but two identical speed routes. Which are used less than 1% of the time. Complete waste of space.

fear

Ice climber

hartford, ct

Oct 16, 2018 - 05:38pm PT

Speed Climbing fits well though for the target teevee audience of npc's.

Watching real hard stuff is slow and isn't appealing to mouth breathers.

Now if we could bring back Dan Osman... I'd watch him crush Bear's Reach solo all day...

A Essex

climber

Oct 16, 2018 - 06:37pm PT

speed climbing is neither

Trashman

Trad climber

SLC

Oct 16, 2018 - 06:40pm PT

BTW, the Russians are dominating the speed climbing competitions in both genders. They are fast!

Duh, it’s the only type of climbing that doping consistently helps with.

ß Î Ø T Ç H

Boulder climber

ne'er–do–well

Oct 16, 2018 - 08:12pm PT

originalpmac

Mountain climber

Timbers of Fennario

Oct 16, 2018 - 10:21pm PT

I did a speed comp at the Ouray ice fest once. 2012, maybe? Pretty sure I won... most intoxicated. Almost puked on the route. Very hungover. Good fun!