Do you remember your first lead?

Search
Go

Discussion Topic

Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
Messages 61 - 80 of total 116 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Oct 12, 2018 - 05:09am PT
I forgot to mention that there is a calotype of my first lead somewhere in the archives of the Smithsonian, not sure where, seems to have been misfiled by an intern.
skywalker1

Trad climber
co
Oct 12, 2018 - 06:56am PT
Jim I believe your first lead was well documented in the Old Testament. I remember something with a goat. I may be mistaken.

S...

JerryA

Mountain climber
Sacramento,CA
Oct 12, 2018 - 07:05am PT
1976 P.S.O.M. Third Lake Camp , Kim Schmitz belaying , TM Herbert observing .
AP

Trad climber
Calgary
Oct 12, 2018 - 08:04am PT
Jim did you guide Moses up and down the mountain?
Sula

Trad climber
Pennsylvania
Oct 12, 2018 - 10:33am PT
Shockley's Ceiling at the Gunks.

Abject ignorance of the concept of rope drag makes this route a bit harder than it should be.


tradryan

Big Wall climber
San Diego
Oct 12, 2018 - 10:44am PT
Speaking of abject ignorance... did anyone else whip on their first lead?? I was a relatively experienced seconder but my first lead was the first pitch of a multipitch route. First pitch 5.8, second 5.10c, with the crux right off the belay as it happened. Apparently, I didn't really conceptualize that when leading... one must determine where to stop. I cruised the first pitch to a nice ledge. Looking up at the next section of slightly overhanging layback thin fingers I thought "that looks really hard for 5.8." Ultimately, I whipped, smacking the helmet on the rock behind me. At that point, I decided I should probably belay from the comfortable ledge DOH!
Tom Bruskotter

Trad climber
Seattle
Oct 12, 2018 - 11:15am PT
It's fun reading all your stories about your first time.
My first lead was The Eye on Cyclops Rock at Joshua Tree in 1982 and I was 16. I remember it feeling like a long pitch and not thinking much of the occasional stoppers I was putting in. It was easy enough climbing but still pretty exhilarating. It was rated 5.0 then, but has been upgraded to 5.4. You know, I remember thinking it felt like at least a 3+.
madbolter1

Big Wall climber
Denver, CO
Oct 12, 2018 - 11:33am PT
The Trough at Big Rock. Gold Line rope. Tennis shoes. I was GRIPPED like I was gonna die!!! At about 14 years old, my whole life flashed before my eyes.
Risk

Mountain climber
Marooned, 855 miles from Tuolumne Meadows
Oct 12, 2018 - 01:03pm PT
Sunnyside Bench about 1971. I fell!
madbolter1

Big Wall climber
Denver, CO
Oct 12, 2018 - 01:16pm PT
Hey, Tom, the Cyclops Eye sure felt like the real deal back then. Solidly 5.3+ R. Real exposure for a noob.
AntiChrist

Gym climber
Urth
Oct 12, 2018 - 01:33pm PT
5.10 on acid nearly 30 years ago... don't remember much other than clipping the first bolt while friends argued over who was going to go set up the TR. Pretty sure I was on belay by the second bolt.
Brandon-

climber
The Granite State.
Oct 12, 2018 - 02:38pm PT
5.9, a short one, at Grouse Slabs on Donner. My buddy who watched me lead said it was a good thing I didnít fall, cause the placements were marginal.
Iamjus10

Trad climber
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 12, 2018 - 03:18pm PT
The Eye! That was my first ever free solo (I think it is for many) I love running up The Eye to watch the sunrise in the morning.
clode

Trad climber
portland, or
Oct 12, 2018 - 03:42pm PT
Joe Healy will appreciate this. As a teenager, beginning to climb in 1970, I followed a few leads at Broughton's Bluff (Lewis & Clark State Park, near Troutdale, OR). Then, I conned my high school buddy, who was one year older and taller than me, to try the Standard SE Corner of Beacon Rock, then a 5.6 (now a 5.7). I led the whole thing, no falls. My buddy could follow anything I could lead, but he never led. I offered, but he never took advantage of the opportunity. I guess he was smarter than me! Most of the time he beat me at chess. He could also do the Rubik's cube in less than two minutes consistently. Oh, and he became a member of MENSA.
David Knopp

Trad climber
CA
Oct 12, 2018 - 05:44pm PT
Duchess right in Indian Cove, at J Tree. It's maybe 30 feet high and i had a full rack, doubles of cams to #3, two sets of stoppers. Damned if i didn't try to place all that gear, mostly from fear. Took me about an hour. My wife was belaying me, i swear she was staring off in the distance trying not to laugh too loudly. She has always been a better climber than me...
clarkolator

climber
Oct 12, 2018 - 06:01pm PT
Absolutely - with first partner Peter Malarkey. We walked up to the Four Horsemen formation at Smith Rock on a hot summer day, no one else around, I thought the crack with the overhang at the beginning looked pretty cool. Friday's jinx, described in the first Watts guide as follows:

"This sinister route put half a dozen people in the hospital during the '80s. Oddly, the rock is solid and the protection reasonable, but for unknown reasons gear-ripping falls are a common occurrence on the first pitch."

...I got a nut in the first roof about eight feet off the ground, a hex in about 15 feet later , but the hex fell out. I'm not sure I remember the rest, other than I resolved to learn about routes more before I did them.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Oct 13, 2018 - 04:32am PT
No, I donít
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Sacramento, CA
Oct 13, 2018 - 06:42pm PT
No, I donít remember. I was hoping you would. Shet.

EDIT: I went ground up and didnít see the FA was already done on this comment.
okie

Trad climber
Oct 13, 2018 - 09:09pm PT
Some hammering was involved, a rope that wouldn't have held...alone...only one fatality that way...managed to drop the hammer... watched it drop in a plumb line down the headwall, ricochet off the slab below and crash trough the trees. The climbing was the easy part.
skywalker1

Trad climber
co
Oct 13, 2018 - 11:34pm PT
only one fatality that way

I like that. Thoughtful. Haha!

S...
Messages 61 - 80 of total 116 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
 
Our Guidebooks
Check 'em out!
SuperTopo Guidebooks


Try a free sample topo!

 
SuperTopo on the Web

Recent Route Beta