Do you remember your first lead?

Search
Go

Discussion Topic

Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
Messages 41 - 60 of total 115 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
ydpl8s

Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
Oct 11, 2018 - 12:42pm PT
Actual photo of my first lead - late May 1972 - East Slab, The Dome - Boulder Canyon. One of our party ran around the back and took a pic from the top.

East Slab - The Dome - 1972
East Slab - The Dome - 1972
Credit: ydpl8s


Don Paul

Social climber
Washington DC
Oct 11, 2018 - 12:55pm PT
My first lead was with a rack of about 3 stoppers, maybe six biners, a machete, and 150' of gold line I used for caving, on a 5.1 in the new river va. I guess I thought I would be chopping a lot of plants on the route. Almost dropped it on my belayer too, when I pulled over a small roof and it started sliding out of the sheath ...
Iamjus10

Trad climber
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 11, 2018 - 01:10pm PT
A machete!? Damn... I've been climbing with the wrong protection for sure!
August West

Trad climber
Where the wind blows strange
Oct 11, 2018 - 01:19pm PT
I don't remember my first lead, but I remember my first fall and that wason a friction route TwoShoes put up at tollhouse.

My first lead was pretty boring. I did laps on the first pitch of Jamcrack on a toprope and then lead it.

My second lead, we had walked up to a climb my partner hadn't done before. There was a short lieback, flake before it mellowed to what looked like easy terrain. My partner said I should lead it, not knowing better, I agreed.

I got my feet ~8 feet off the ground, was struggling mightily, grabbed the biggest stopper off the rack, blindly put it behind the flake and pulled down until it stopped, got a sling on it and clipped the rope, and then, while trying to take a peek to see if it actually looked any good, fell off. Flipped upside down, from the rope behind my leg, and came to a stop with my head a couple feet off the ground.

I didn't finish the lead.

But my placement skills were perfect.
Iamjus10

Trad climber
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 11, 2018 - 03:27pm PT
The climb you're describing sounds a lot like "Lemon" which is a shitty crack/flake just down from Jamcrack. Was that the one?

That sounds a lot like my second lead too! I was about 15 feet of the deck in Mt. Woodson on some dumb flaring crack and flipped upside too..
Larry Nelson

Social climber
Oct 11, 2018 - 03:56pm PT
"The Ramp" in Mission Gorge, San Diego. 5.7, One hex, two stoppers, one original Friend.

NutAgain!
Been awhile, but I remember Galwas Crack as being kinda greasy slick. That's an impressive first lead. Your climbing progress since then probably surpassed mine, heh.
Iamjus10

Trad climber
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 11, 2018 - 04:51pm PT
Larry Nelson // NutAgain!

Surprised to see so many first leads at Mission Gorge! Im not far, I did some of my first TR's there. Slippery mess that place is..
Dingus Milktoast

Trad climber
Minister of Moderation, Fatcrackistan
Oct 11, 2018 - 06:01pm PT
First lead was a first ascent of a nameless route on crappy Tennessee limestone. First multipitch lead was the Mummy Buttress at Linville Gorge with hexes and nuts on godsown granite.

DMT
Matt Sarad

climber
Oct 11, 2018 - 06:16pm PT
I think it was Initiation Crack at the Kern Slabs. I skipped the 10a part and started at the 5.7 part.
TwistedCrank

climber
Released into general population, Idaho
Oct 11, 2018 - 06:51pm PT
After Six. Duh.
throwpie

Trad climber
Berkeley
Oct 11, 2018 - 06:51pm PT
Either the first pitch of Jamcrack on sunnyside or something on Harry Daley.
Iamjus10

Trad climber
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 11, 2018 - 07:01pm PT
Seeing a lot of first pitch of Jamcracks on here. Makes me happy.
I put my friend on the first pitch of Jamcrack as his first trad lead. He knocked it out of the water.
He TR'd it first too.
jbaker

Trad climber
Redwood City, CA
Oct 11, 2018 - 07:02pm PT
Don Paul - I was climbing at Annapolis Rocks in Maryland when a couple local boys showed up to climb. They had a chain saw, just in case. So your machete might have looked a bit weak to the locals. One of them was top-roping, swinging back and forth, whooping, while his belayer was holding the rope end heading into the belay device. He wasn't open to advice that it might be better to hold the other end.
Curt

climber
Gold Canyon, AZ
Oct 11, 2018 - 07:07pm PT
Horseman at the Gunks.

Cool. Mine was Grey Face, at the Gunks.

Curt
rottingjohnny

Sport climber
Sands Motel , Las Vegas
Oct 11, 2018 - 08:18pm PT
What happens in Apple Valley , stays in Apple Valley...
What happens in Apple Valley , stays in Apple Valley...
Credit: rottingjohnny
skywalker1

Trad climber
co
Oct 11, 2018 - 09:27pm PT
^^^^ Where do you get these pictures from? Is that you???? LOL

S.....
T Hocking

Trad climber
Redding, Ca
Oct 11, 2018 - 09:33pm PT
^^^
LOL, RJ's the submissive santa. :)
rottingjohnny

Sport climber
Sands Motel , Las Vegas
Oct 11, 2018 - 09:46pm PT
skywalker... That's Cosmic .... on his first lead... Luckily he doesn't have any pics of me...
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Oct 12, 2018 - 05:09am PT
I forgot to mention that there is a calotype of my first lead somewhere in the archives of the Smithsonian, not sure where, seems to have been misfiled by an intern.
skywalker1

Trad climber
co
Oct 12, 2018 - 06:56am PT
Jim I believe your first lead was well documented in the Old Testament. I remember something with a goat. I may be mistaken.

S...

Messages 41 - 60 of total 115 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
 
Our Guidebooks
Check 'em out!
SuperTopo Guidebooks


Try a free sample topo!

 
SuperTopo on the Web

Recent Route Beta