El Cap: Heart Ledges Fixed Lines

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Climby McClimbface

Trad climber

Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 3, 2018 - 06:15pm PT

A quick update on the status of the fixed lines to Heart Ledges. The lines are up, but some of the lines are getting worn. For some sections there are two ropes side by side and you can’t tell until you get to the top which the good rope is. I rappelled the route on Monday and here are my notes on which lines are good going from the ground up:

Bottom line: Blue rope is in good shape

2nd lines: Pink rope is good. White/Black is bad.

3rd lines: Black fixed line is tied into a white/black rope which is the good line. White/red rope is bad.

4th lines: white/blue is the better rope. White/tan has a knot and some wear.

5th lines: both lines are good. White/red line is newer and in better shape but has a single knot to pass. Blue/green is older and more worn, but has no exposed core.

Top lines to Heart: black rope is fine

Heart Ledges to Mammoth Terrace: black fixed line is fine.

We will be going up tomorrow and I may try to take down a couple of the lines that are really bad.

Hope this info helps anyone that’s planning on jugging and hauling to Heart. Climb safe!

skywalker1

Trad climber

Oct 3, 2018 - 06:33pm PT

Are these static or dynamic?

Just curious.

S...

Climby McClimbface

Trad climber

Topic Author's Reply - Oct 12, 2018 - 09:15am PT

They’re static ropes. We didn’t get a chance to cut down the really bad ropes on our climb because there was a party below us. We did isolate some of the damaged sections with knots. There was one rope that wasn’t attached to the anchors at the bottom and just had a knot to keep people from rappelling off the end. If anyone has a chance to take this rope down go ahead and do it.

nathanael

climber

Oct 14, 2018 - 03:16pm PT

Just an update on this since it was useful to me this weekend.

Bottom line: Blue rope is in good shape

2nd lines: Pink rope is good. White/Black is bad.

3rd lines: Full length black rope is good.
Short black line tied into a white/black rope which is ok but has a knot.

4th lines: white and black is good

5th lines: White/red line is newer and in better shape but has a single knot to pass (my preference). Blue/green is older and more worn (really fuzzy), but has no exposed core.

Top lines to Heart: black rope is fine

Heart Ledges to Mammoth Terrace: black fixed line is fine.