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Mr_T
Trad climber
Northern California
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Sep 26, 2018 - 09:06am PT
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[Deleted - poor manners on my part]
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Mr_T
Trad climber
Northern California
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Sep 26, 2018 - 09:28am PT
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Deleting my posts because I'm acting like a jerk.
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Don Paul
Social climber
Washington DC
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Sep 26, 2018 - 11:05am PT
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No harm done. I hope we can all agree that one thing portaledges are good for, is blocking those annoying NIAD teams, lol.
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Lambone
Big Wall climber
Ashland, Or
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There are arguments for both sides, bth MrT and Mike. have valid points.
I think it really depends on the competence level of the party their experience and pace.
When I was 19 years old climbing Tripple Direct, we were really just learning how to wall climb, and we were slow as molasses. We really had no gauge as to what our pace would be, or whether or not we could cover a certain number of pitches to a bivi ledge. We really had no idea how long the climb would take us.
So we came loaded for an expedition, our motto was we aren't going down for any reason...so we better bring everything. Two full pigs and a ledge and the hauling was brutal!
Now I'd probly plan on 3 bivis, but I'd still bring my D4 just because I like a good nights sleep.
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JLP
Social climber
The internet
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When I was 19 years old climbing Tripple Direct, we were really just learning how to wall climb As you impart your hard earned wisdom, could you add if either you or mr t have managed anything since other than to log back of the pack times executed with horrendous style on El Cap’s easiest routes?
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Don Paul
Social climber
Washington DC
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I had some leftover pineapple cans that had made the trip up el cap. I kept them as souvenirs for about ten years until they got bloated and looked dangerous. Another food that is really only eaten on el cap is canned chili.
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JLP
Social climber
The internet
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Another food that is really only eaten on el cap is canned chili. If all you're planning on doing is standing in aiders, hauling 500 lbs of sh!t up the rock and crapping that stuff back into a bag appearing exactly as you ate it - minus the fat - that might work as your diet.
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