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ThomasKeefer
Trad climber
San Diego
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Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 9, 2018 - 06:01pm PT
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Might close out a 25 year ride in the Navy and trying to decide where to move to from our current Monterey, CA place. Planning to teach Physics or Calc somewhere as a second career. We have been looking at some spots in VT, CO and OR so far but the freedom to go anywhere is a bit overwhelming... Please help :)
Criteria are:
-Great school system (2 kids 14/12)
-Good access to climbing, skiing, MTB, paragliding, kitesurfing, etc (don't need all of them but as close as possible)
-'reasonable' cost of living - need to be able to get a place for 400-500k (I understand that is not exactly reasonable)
-Dont want full suburbia but also not looking to start a farm
-Manageable traffic
Thanks!!
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RURP_Belay
Big Wall climber
Bitter end of a bad anchor
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Have you considered Bend? It's a bit of a drive to the ocean, but hits a bunch of your qualifiers.
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ThomasKeefer
Trad climber
San Diego
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 9, 2018 - 06:12pm PT
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Yes.. Thanks! Here is the current short list:
South Burlington, VT (great schools, decent access to all those sports just on a different level but the real estate market is horrendous... and that winter.. but it's kind close to family, and great beer)
Bend (Decent schools, hard to get to?, great access to sports, maybe a bit dreary in winter?)
Colorado Springs (Great Schools, good access to sports, probably a bit right leaning for me, traffic situation might be an issue)
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Gary
Social climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
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Los Angeles
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ThomasKeefer
Trad climber
San Diego
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 9, 2018 - 06:16pm PT
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Good call, Gary! Is there traffic in LA? ;)
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climbski2
Mountain climber
The Ocean
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SLC perhaps..seems perfect for ya.
Reno/Tahoe is a fair choice but rapidly getting pricey. Reno HS run from bad to decent depending on which one.
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little Z
Trad climber
un cafetal en Naranjo
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head off to Russia with formerclimber, he'll get you settled in
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ThomasKeefer
Trad climber
San Diego
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 9, 2018 - 06:29pm PT
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SLC is an interesting idea we have thought about... Point of the Mountain is being bull dozed away :(
Russia sounds interesting.. maybe a bit too exotic
Aside from bouldering, what is in El Paso?
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ThomasKeefer
Trad climber
San Diego
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 9, 2018 - 06:39pm PT
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Anyone lived in Vermont posting on here?
I am torn since I have only spent one winter taking trips there - it was the 14/15 snowpocalypse so it might have seemed artificially cool.
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ms55401
Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
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Duluth, Minn. And yes, you are welcome.
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Jan
Mountain climber
Colorado & Nepal
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Colorado Springs is very conservative, bursting at the seams with retired military and evangelicals. Salt Lake city gives the impression of being on a well maintained military base and is also conservative but Mormon.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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What, NW Washington doesn’t tick some boxes? OK, the skiing isn’t great but it can be.
West of Puget Sound you can get a darn nice place for $500K. And I don’t mean in Bremerton. 🤨
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Visalia, CA :)
The northeast has access to mediocre versions of everything on your list. Their mountains are lame.
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Wah
Winooski!
for those who will never need to gnow;
(That is north of South Burlington Vermont)
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ThomasKeefer
Trad climber
San Diego
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 9, 2018 - 07:41pm PT
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Thanks, Dingus, for the great words and good advice - you are spot on :)
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ThomasKeefer
Trad climber
San Diego
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 9, 2018 - 07:45pm PT
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Thats a kick ass clip Jim... kind of perfectly communicates the usually awkward feeling I get when someone says 'Thank you for your service' .. Its was like the blink of an eye and amazingly rewarding.
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Chippychopperone
Social climber
SLC, UT
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Check out Summit County, Utah. Many smaller towns in this county. Wanship, Midway, Heber, Oakley, Coalville and Park City. Close to Salt Lake City but much cleaner air. Tons and tons of recreation opportunities. Three ski resorts within 10/15 minutes. A bunch of other big resorts within one hour. Climbing in the Uintahs, little cottonwood, big cottonwood, American fork, city of rocks, echo canyon.
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SC seagoat
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, Moab, A sailboat, or some time zone
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Bozeman.
Susan
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Pennsylenvy
Gym climber
A dingy corner in your refrigerator
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SLC equals smog ! Gonna get worse too. I thought of it before the Olympics....after all the $$$$ whoring after that (development) SLC can suck it.
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jogill
climber
Colorado
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Looks like you are in meteorology, CDR. So was I sixty years ago, but I didn't stay in (USAF). Left the Service and became a math prof. (Vorticity advection was popular at the U of Chicago at the time.)
I hesitate to mention this since Pueblo, Colorado has such a poor reputation, but I've lived in Pueblo West (ten miles from Pueblo) since 1985 and it's a decent prairie community with large lots and horses (2.5 acres where I live), and home prices are 1/2 the costs of those in Colorado Springs, 30 miles away on I25. The District 70 schools in PW have very good reputations. You get the advantages of Colorado Springs without the hassles and high prices. For $400K you could build a really nice home with five bedrooms and four bathrooms, on a spacious lot with views of the Wet Mountains and Pikes Peak.
Lately I've been going over to the high school to go up and down the bleachers (40+ steps) for exercise, and I am very impressed with the athletic facilities there: excellent football stadium, tennis courts, ball fields, gymnasiums, etc.
Just a thought. Good luck.
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ThomasKeefer
Trad climber
San Diego
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 9, 2018 - 08:39pm PT
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thanks, Jogill! I will check Pueblo out - that actually sounds like it could be a good fit. 30 miles is quick!
Just out of curiosity, since the communities are so small, did you ever work with Navy folks? We have consolidated a fair amount of stuff with the USAF - it has worked great!
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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White Salmon WA
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jogill
climber
Colorado
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Thomas, after twelve months at the U of Chicago I was a forecaster at Glasgow AFB in northern Montana until I got out in the spring of 1962 to return to grad school. Nothing sophisticated, just local forecasts and supporting F101 Voodoos and B-52s.
I might have stayed in, but I had a hard time adapting to shift duty!
;>)
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Kalimon
Social climber
Ridgway, CO
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Nevada is the destination of the future. Just need some more water.
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cragnshag
Social climber
san joser
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Why not stay in Monterey for 6 more years, then decide where to go? I'm guessing the kids would rather stay put. And when you do leave, you don't have to worry about "good" schools. That makes finding the right place a whole lot easier.
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GuapoVino
climber
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I spent a week in Jackson Hole last summer. There's a lot of outdoor activity potential there - a big paragliding community, paddling, mountain biking, skiing, etc. Unfortunately the housing cost is really high. I also noticed that about 1/3 of the people were too badass (in their own mind) to speak to you, 1/3 would spray non-stop about how badass they were, but about 1/3 were fairly friendly.
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10b4me
Social climber
Lida Junction
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How bout Flagstaff?
They got loads of climbing, pretty much all the snow in AZ (?), tons of mtb, canyoneering, and proximity to a lil ditch. +1
Taos
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Gary
Social climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
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Aug 10, 2018 - 06:41am PT
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Good call, Gary! Is there traffic in LA? ;)
There's traffic in LA, but it can be avoided. On the other hand, you could climb a route at Joshua Tree, ski in Big Bear and end the day wind surfing off Huntington Beach in one day. From Pasadena you could be in Josh, or Tahquitz in 2 hours. The high Sierra in 3 hours.
You can't beat the food, the museums or the music.
The main problem now is not traffic, but the warming climate. In Pasadena, it's pretty much triple digit temps July through October. And with all these freaking fires it's hard to find a place to breathe in California.
Reilly, what's the matter with Bremerton? Just had a great dinner at the Boat Shed. And a nice ferry from Edmunds.
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Winemaker
Sport climber
Yakima, WA
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Aug 10, 2018 - 06:45am PT
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Check out Spokane. Stay out of Western Washington unless you love sitting in a car or you're across the Sound; the Gig Harbor area is nice but pricey. My daughter lives in SLC and hates the smog and heat; pretty amazing the changes as you go over the mountains though.
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Gunkie
Trad climber
Valles Marineris
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Aug 10, 2018 - 06:45am PT
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Honestly, New Paltz NY fits a lot of your criteria. But it really comes down to what you regard as 'good access' to these fun things and the quality of the fun things.
New Paltz/Gardiner NY has good schools. Traffic is really not bad at all. You can buy a decent place for under $450k and is probably the suburban/rural mix you're looking for...
https://www.zillow.com/homes/for_sale/Gardiner-NY/pmf,pf_pt/32841685_zpid/396154_rid/globalrelevanceex_sort/41.765422,-74.076348,41.627761,-74.310837_rect/11_zm/
https://www.zillow.com/homes/for_sale/Gardiner-NY/pmf,pf_pt/32841743_zpid/396154_rid/globalrelevanceex_sort/41.765422,-74.076348,41.627761,-74.310837_rect/11_zm/
https://www.zillow.com/homes/for_sale/Gardiner-NY/pmf,pf_pt/32841438_zpid/396154_rid/globalrelevanceex_sort/41.765422,-74.076348,41.627761,-74.310837_rect/11_zm/
Catskills skiing is all within 90 minutes, give or take. High Peaks/Adirondacks (e.g. Lake Placid/Whiteface) is around 3 hours and Vermont skiing is 2-5 hours depending on where you go.
I know there is a ton of single track MTB trails in the area and even more in the Catskills and beyond.
I think folks kitesurf on the Hudson River not too far away. If you surf, RI reef breaks are 3 hours away. NJ beach breaks are 2-4 hours away. And the OBX is 10 hours (well worth an annual trip for kitesurfing).
There are paragliders in the region; Ellenville comes to mind and is probably 30-40 minutes away.
And there is the Gunks in your backyard and most of the climbing is not even in the guidebooks. Plus you have access to the granite of the High Peaks/Adirondacks, NH climbing isn't much over 5 hours.
The east coast is a good jumping off spot for Europe. Good luck with your choice. I envy you.
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EdwardT
Trad climber
Retired
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Aug 10, 2018 - 07:03am PT
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Here's a wildcard - Asheville, NC
Year-round climbing and mountain biking
Four seasons, with mild Summers and Winters
19 microbreweries
Four hours from the beach, where you can rent ocean front houses for a reasonable price.
The downside - the skiing is less than mediocre, at best.
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Mike Honcho
Trad climber
Glenwood Springs, CO
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Aug 10, 2018 - 07:12am PT
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Jim Brennan is cracking me up!
Become a Canadian citizen and then move to Squamish.
Go to El Paso and learn Texan.
Roll over, on to your back and the universe will answer all of your questions.
edit to add ~"NeeBraun" is a hilarious username. It comes with a visual and everything!
Caylor
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Rollover
climber
Gross Vegas
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Aug 10, 2018 - 07:12am PT
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^Winooski^
As a graduate of St Michael’s
Winooski is cool little mill town 10 minutes
from Burlington.
Chilly winters eventually forced my hand.
I relocated to Olympic Valley, CA.
My last 2 years, friends and I lived in Jonesville,VT.
5 minutes from Richmond 10 minutes from Bolton.
25 minutes in no traffic to Burlington.
35-45 minutes to Stowe. 35-45 minutes to Sugarbush/
Mad River Glen.
Yeah the mountains are “lame” by West Coast standards,
But enough hiking, fishing, camping to last a few lifetimes.
Add the ADKs and there’s a couple more..
Ok skiing climbing.
But ask tradmanclimbs about the ice climbing!!!!
Great summertime swimming holes all around
Richmond Area.
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Don Paul
Social climber
Washington DC
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Aug 10, 2018 - 09:01am PT
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I need to land a nice telecommuting job and move to Skardu or Srinagar.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Aug 10, 2018 - 09:06am PT
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Gary, there are a lot worse places than Bremerton but since Thomas is leaving the Navy I surmised that he might want a clean break. Looked at a fantastic place on 5 acres a bit NE of Olympia on Realtor.com for $500K the other day. Dunno about the schools there but I would think they’re decent.
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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Aug 10, 2018 - 09:06am PT
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I second DMTs good advice. You have about 6 years left with kids enjoy it.
I’m kind of in the same boat. Foothills of Northern California has been great compromise. I live in a small town with great schools at the edge of suburbia. Rural but convenient. 1 hour to great skiing (great terrain, snow is feast or famine) climbing in 20 minutes, Yosemite in under 4 hours. Santa Cruz in 3 hours. But I think climate change is wrecking the skiing, Norcal oceans are cold and don’t get down there much.
We are seriously thinking about getting two places. Maybe 1 in Hawaii and one in the mountains maybe near Powder Mountain Utah (I need steep enough terrain and lots of snow) and splitting time between them. Of course kids in school make that a challenge, we may home school our younger one.
California housing and cost of living is getting ridiculous. Not that Hawaii is any better but it’s Hawaii.
I grew up on the east coast and learned to ski in Vermont. Summers are humid. Ski terrain is mediocre. Snow is hard. No access to surf. I surf not kiteboard so I don’t know where conditions are good for that. Multi pitch climbing is not available like the west.
Bend is expensive and far from the ocean. Same for Colorado.
Taos is in the middle of nowhere. And far from the ocean.
The northwest is rainy.
A cheaper option for the beach is Florida. But I couldn’t live there in the summer hence the need for a mountain home.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Aug 10, 2018 - 09:23am PT
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The northwest is rainy.
A common misconception,and it is getting less so. Chicago gets more rain than Seattle.
And rain is something most of California would kill for right now.
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skywalker1
Trad climber
co
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Aug 10, 2018 - 09:45am PT
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Colorado- Evergreen (30 min to Denver)
N.H. - Laconia area (Gilford specifically)
W.V. - Near but not in Morgantown (Cheat Lake area specifically)
Just a few places I've lived that were kick ass with a sh#t ton to do.
S...
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stevep
Boulder climber
Salt Lake, UT
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Aug 10, 2018 - 10:40am PT
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To correct Jan a little bit...Utah is conservative. SLC itself is not. Democratic mayors, brewpubs, etc. It's probably less conservative than Colorado Springs.
But it's growing very rapidly, and from a housing perspective, is only cheap in comparison to the West Coast.
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looks easy from here
climber
Ben Lomond, CA
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Aug 10, 2018 - 10:51am PT
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Bend 7,000,000 tourists a year
Colorado Springs area 23,000,000 tourists a year
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jeff constine
Trad climber
Ao Namao
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Aug 10, 2018 - 10:58am PT
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Thailand, Climbing, Scuba, Jungle trek, Great food, nice people, CHEAP. Oh, awesome medical services.
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ThomasKeefer
Trad climber
San Diego
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 10, 2018 - 12:01pm PT
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Fet-
Thanks! Sounds like we are in a similar boat. I can help you with HI ideas - I lived there for a few years until October of 2017. I would go back in a hearbeat - has everything but skiing. Oddly, I never climbed while there but Oahu has one fairly large crag out at Dillingham and a cool TR spot at Makapuu pt.
The schools are as bad as you might have heard and the traffic is insane if you are going where everyone else is. You can easily avoid that though.
I agree with most of what everyone is saying - I am slowly being talked out of VT which is why I have turned to the font of never ending wisdom here on the taco.
Thanks very much to everyone for the ideas - keep them coming!
Oh.. and Bremeton - I did work there for a bit in the shipyard. It was cool - but real estate is out of control and the weather is kinda tough.
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johntp
Trad climber
Little Rock and Loving It
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Aug 10, 2018 - 12:20pm PT
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I've always thought St, George, Utah looked like a nice place to live. Or Moab; though it's gotten a bit overrun.
SLC? Traffic and smog is bad from the bit I've been there.
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Aug 10, 2018 - 02:55pm PT
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Dillon Montana. University town. Affordable housing. Climbing, skiing.
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bit'er ol' guy
climber
the past
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Aug 10, 2018 - 04:32pm PT
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Not Reno Tahoe Truckee NO! $$$$$$$$ so crowded, hot and expensive, A ski town without snow. Google and Tesla are on their way to Drano with more Traffic so more yups and everything is going to get more expensive if that's possible? priviledge and entitled Uber-families every where demanding everything they had in Los Gatos. Lame.
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briham89
Big Wall climber
santa cruz, ca
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Aug 10, 2018 - 04:39pm PT
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Not Reno Tahoe Truckee NO! $$$$$$$$ so crowded, hot and expensive, A ski town without snow. Google and Tesla are on their way to Drano with more Traffic so more yups and everything is going to get more expensive if that's possible? priviledge and entitled Uber-families every where demanding everything they had in Los Gatos. Lame.
I was in Truckee for the first time in about 8 years last weekend, and I couldn't f*#kin' believe the place. Felt like Los Gatos / SF on a Saturday night. So crazy
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steve s
Trad climber
eldo
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Aug 10, 2018 - 05:49pm PT
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Baraboo, Wisconsin. Enough said !
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Brandon-
climber
The Granite State.
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Aug 11, 2018 - 07:17am PT
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I live a half hour or so from VT and if you can find a decent place to live I’d recommend it. Burlington is a little too yuppie/busy for my tastes, but everyone’s entitled to their own opinions. ;)
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Winemaker
Sport climber
Yakima, WA
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Aug 11, 2018 - 07:33am PT
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Baraboo, Wisconsin. Enough said !
Skeeters.
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10b4me
Social climber
Lida Junction
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Aug 11, 2018 - 08:17am PT
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I've always thought St, George, Utah looked like a nice place to live.
They call that part of Utah, Dixie. Nawmean
Possibly the most conservative part of the state.
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kpinwalla2
Social climber
WA
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Aug 11, 2018 - 08:27am PT
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I once took one of those online "where you should retire" surveys that was based on a bunch of things, including access to your favorite activities, affordability, cultural stuff, etc. To my great surprise, the survey concluded I should retire to Corvallis, OR. Why the surprise? Because I lived there for 6 years in the 80's and couldn't wait to leave for greener pastures (so to speak). The reason the survey picked Corvallis was: university town with all the amenities, one hour to the Oregon coast, 2 hours to the crest of the Cascades and skiing, 3 hours to Smith and the desert, great year-round mountain biking. There's even a mountain with a road to the top 30 min from town that has skiable snow much of the winter (Marys Peak). The winters and summers are both fairly mild. Why was I anxious to leave? Someone condemned the NW upthread as "too rainy" and someone else said "that's a misconception, it rains more in Chicago". Having lived in the NW for a long time, here's the issue: Yes the annual precipitation in Chicago and many other places in the eastern US is greater than Portland, Seattle, etc. (37 in. or so) That's not the problem. The problem is seemingly incessant cloudiness, fog, and drizzle from November-April. When I moved to Corvallis in August I thought it was paradise. Beautiful weather for 2 months. Then November came. It was socked in and cloudy and gray for the next 30 days with a bit of rain (often a "driving mist") every day. That doesn't put much water in the rain gauge, but after a few weeks you'll be craving sun (which you can get on the weekends if you're willing to drive the 3 hours to Sisters/Bend/Terrebonne). Best thing about Corvallis was the downtown, the year-round mountain biking and the ability to dramatically change your weather with a relatively short drive. Too hot in the summer? Drive an hour to the cool, cloudy coast. Too cloudy and wet in winter? Head to the desert on the other side of the mountains. If I was going to retire to the NW, knowing what I know, having lived here for almost 40 years, I'd probably pick the gorge (Hood River, White Salmon, Mosier). You can adjust your annual rainfall/cloudiness by moving a few miles east or west. There's a brief spell of really hot weather in the summer and a few weeks of persistent inversion fog in the dead of winter, but you can get above that by skiing in the nearby Cascades.
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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Aug 11, 2018 - 09:03am PT
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What makes it challenging is being a mountain and an ocean person, drop one and your possibilities open right up. :-)
In the US California is really the only state that has great quality of both IMO. But really only SoCal is great for the Ocean because from central CA and north the water is cold and often the coastal weather is rough.
I get spoiled in Hawaii because you don't need a wetsuit and can be in the water for hours. We will/would be on the big island because we have family there and there's so much to do. We go about every other year for the last 20 years and still find new things to do. But we like Kona and it's expensive.
Lived in Truckee Tahoe from 1993 to 1997. We went back a few years later and housing had tripled.
Lived in Alaska 1998. I could deal with the winters. But summer days that were partly cloudy and 68 and people were raving how nice the weather was and I'd say this is like winter in California.
I have family that move from CA to Seattle area they said what is above; its the long periods of drizzly weather that suck.
Also second the above about Montana, it could be a great mountain locale and not super expensive.
Someone mentioned south of SLC in Utah. It's almost great. Close to Zion. Not expensive but the ski hills are tiny.
Moab is great but becoming like Truckee and no good ski areas nearby.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Aug 11, 2018 - 09:08am PT
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St. George is not a small town anymore; sprawling californicated suburbia.
They now have rush hour traffic, in 112 degree heat.
If you can do without the ocean, then the place to go in Utah is over 6000'.
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Aug 11, 2018 - 10:23am PT
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Cedar City. University town. Rumor to have an up and coming earth sciences program. A friend moved and retired to Brianhead and seems like he gets plenty of skiing in (his photo's are all over especially on KSL, etc).
I was surprised after climbing at (edit to add) Roger's Rock in the Daks, enroute to Rumney, we needed a place to stay enroute and ended up in Hanover. Didn't dawn on me that Dartmouth was there (too funny). Anyhoo...nice area. Your house budget would do really well around Rumney. Seems like you're moving away from the right coast options...
Boise?
My sister lives in Spokane. Nice spot!
Plenty of liberals in my hometown of Missoula (if you're looking at less conservative). They had an unusually good ski season last year. Still...although prices are high, you could look down the Bitterroot valley at Hamilton, Stevi, even Darby (we like the Bandit Brewing folks...). Good skiing (limited but Lost Trail is great, and, you could make the trek over the pass to the mighty, mighty Maverick...ha ha). Can't beat the huntin' and fishin' if you're into that. Climbing and mtn biking close by. Big lakes for kite surfing.
Bozeman. Sure has changed. But, friends still really liking it.
Butte! Ha ha. Buy a city block.
What about Pocatello or IF? Kevin could give us the lowdown on SEI...
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Aug 11, 2018 - 10:47am PT
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Bozeman is still nice but Missoula is closer to the ocean! 🤡
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10b4me
Social climber
Lida Junction
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Aug 11, 2018 - 10:57am PT
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I still think Flagstaff is worth a shot. Climbing, mtn biking, skiing.
Lake Powell for kite surfing.
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Aug 12, 2018 - 01:25am PT
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I'm from Chicago and lived in NH for a bit before moving to Oregon in '87. Don't bother contrasting Oregon and Chicago rain - that's nonsense. And while Oregon doesn't get snow and doesn't have bugs, make no mistake, it's cold, wet and miserable here for the better part of the year. Unless you ski and make the trip to Mt Hood all the time or do the winter trek over to Smith (not a fun drive in the winter) then this likely isn't the place.
I moved here for the windsurfing, not the climbing, and that's world-class, but before I met my wife and stepdaughter I went to Asia for the winters and came back when it was nice again. Since we've been together I've instead had a software business and am heads down all winter coding so it's not so much an issue as that's when I make money, but I have to say it's getting way tiring all these winters later and we're not staying here any longer than we have to. In that, we share the same dilemma: where to go? Not sure, but not here.
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wbw
Trad climber
'cross the great divide
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Aug 12, 2018 - 09:36am PT
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Moab is great but becoming like Truckee and no good ski areas nearby.
That is, except for Telluride.
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ec
climber
ca
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Aug 12, 2018 - 11:50am PT
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Jody, as of Jan 1st, 2018, you can pump yer own fuel in OR...
 ec
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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Aug 12, 2018 - 12:18pm PT
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Pulled up behind a little old lady a couple months ago just as she pulled the handle to dispense diesel. I jumped out and yelled STOP and freaked her out a bit, but she had only pumped $0.15 worth of diesel. She seemed to have no idea why it was wrong, I wondered how she made it through so many years without that knowledge.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Aug 12, 2018 - 12:28pm PT
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Fet, you just cost some poor mechanic a couple of boat payments,
not to mention getting somebody off the road that probably should be at home.
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Loyd
Big Wall climber
Roseburg, OR
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Aug 12, 2018 - 12:33pm PT
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How about Roseburg, OR, nice place, you can live in town or outside of town. There is a population of about 20,000, lowest average wind speed in the USA, two airports, lots of pubs, six breweries, 26 vineyards. The Umpqua river runs through town with good fishing.
Ginnifer Drumright, one of our Brew Club members, is a local realtor and know the local market well, give her a call.
EquitronRealty@gmail.com
541-375-0687 • Mobile, Work
Loyd Price
Lived and climbed in YOS for a long time
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ontheedgeandscaredtodeath
Social climber
Wilds of New Mexico
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Aug 12, 2018 - 04:06pm PT
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I love where should I live threads! I think basically every single place has been covered so I’ll just throw in my two cents as someone who moved every two or three years with my military dad. I would have been stoked to move somewhere awesome for high school. However, I was in a shitty mean HS in a town I hated and wasn’t living in Monterey...I wonder how strongly they self identify with SoCal? Moving to Vermont or wherever might not seem so great if you are working your way up the pecking order at the local surf breaks. But obviously I know nothing about your fam- Good luck with whatever you do!
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hailman
Trad climber
Ventura, CA
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Aug 12, 2018 - 05:22pm PT
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I consider myself lucky to have lived in Madison, WI and Ventura, CA over the last 10 years.
Funny thing is...any recommendations someone else gives are colored by their own memories of the place....
I went to UW and had the time of my life. Area has great schools, lake recreation, and yes the best place to be in summer anywhere on the planet, Memorial Terrace beer garden. All the culture afforded by a hip university and capital city and yes Wisconsinites are so nice.
Some Madison love from Mr. Van Pelt:
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=DchbLXhIt8M
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=nyUeuqFQbGs
Also, sometimes feel like Ventura Cty is the best kept secret in CA. It's pretty quiet here. Road / mountain biking Malibu and Santa Monica Mtns is great. Pretty good surfing from what I hear. Don't have the best local crags like a Tollhouse for Fresno or Lovers Leap for Sacramento but we get by.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Aug 12, 2018 - 05:34pm PT
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Dood, there’s only one UW - GO HUSKIES!
Where else can you hit morning classes and be pounding la piste by noon? (shutup Denver)
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hailman
Trad climber
Ventura, CA
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Aug 12, 2018 - 05:49pm PT
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Ha Reilly, nice comeback! Probably would have done less beer drinking and more skiing at west coast UW.
Skied Mt Baker this spring and can't disagree with you....it was AWESOME!
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wilbeer
Mountain climber
Terence Wilson greeneck alleghenys,ny,
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Aug 12, 2018 - 05:53pm PT
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The one thing I have found over the years,is,just get started.
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Aug 12, 2018 - 06:57pm PT
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Given the age of your kids (I have a 12 and 14 yr. old too), do you have the option of staying until they graduate from high school? Monterey is pretty nice and, while you might find someplace else that you do like, I'd say at best it will be different but not better. I totally get moving someplace else, especially after 25 yrs. and you're still young enough to get stuff done, but that's a potentially big move for your kids.
In the early 90s I strongly considered moving to CO or Boulder. I went and checked it out, and it seemed great but then I realized that I was on vacation at the time and every place seems great when you're on vacation. I went back again and checked it out with the intent of really checking it out and had a totally different perspective. There was no diversity, some of the people struck me as wierd; people who between burns at Flagstaff would blankly stare off into space than talk to someone they didn't already know. Politically though, that would seem ideal to other parts of CO. I remember later meeting a Spicolli looking dude who told me he went to school at CU but advised that if I moved I would have to learn to deal with people who had a totally different level of sophistication than what I was used to. People in more rural areas can seem like nice, solid people until you hear them talk about Obama or Trump.
So in short I don't have any specific suggestions of where to go, only to wish you luck in your search. I'd say Hawaii if climbing isn't a huge prerequisite, though I hear that some folks have issues adjusting to life on an island. Vermont looks nice, but almost too cute, and given the public health issues they have with addiction issues, I'd be afraid to introduce my kids into that environment. Depending on your politics, moving someplace rural may make you an island philosophically with a few good neighbors in a town you're embarrassed by. Life's full of tough choices.
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matlinb
Trad climber
Fort Collins, CO
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Aug 12, 2018 - 07:17pm PT
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If Colorado Springs is on your short list, you should also consider Fort Collins. It sits on the north side of the front range metro area. The Springs is closer to skiing, but the trad climbing access from Fort Collins is good. We relocated to Fort Collins five years ago when my son was starting high school and he adapted well. I can't think of a negative thing to say about his high school experience.
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MikeL
Social climber
Southern Arizona
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Aug 12, 2018 - 08:29pm PT
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hailman: Probably would have done less beer drinking and more skiing at west coast UW.
If Madison is known for anything, it’s known for drunken behavior, especially at UW football games.
The further north one lives, the more drinking is part of a lifestyle.
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hailman
Trad climber
Ventura, CA
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Aug 12, 2018 - 08:50pm PT
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Mike,
Yes that's true and obviously there is a very dark side to drinking on 'party school' college campuses. Any parent needs to have a very frank discussion with their kids regarding potential pressures / dangers regarding this before sending them off to school. Unfortunately at UW it's usually the out of towners that show up to the football games, Halloween, Mifflin block party, etc and cause all the trouble.
Madison is a progressive island nowadays (used to be the whole state was on board, see Robert LaFollette's massive broad support back in the day). It's full of active people and would hate for anyone to have the impression boozing up is all anyone does there....
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Aug 12, 2018 - 08:51pm PT
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Having recently gone through just what you are now going through, I can offer one piece of advice: If you aren't under pressure to move tomorrow, then spend a year or so exploring. Go to wherever it is you think might be a possible new home and spend a few days just sinking in and getting a feel for the place. Keep the bullshit filter in place, and don't be swayed by unicorn sightings. And, if you think you've found something good, then do a little research about weather, and go back for a few days at the very worst time of the year.
What we settled on won't be relevant for you because, a) we were retiring and not worried about school-age children or the availability of jobs in a particular field; and, b) we were not limited to the US. But the process is worth considering.
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ThomasKeefer
Trad climber
San Diego
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 12, 2018 - 10:11pm PT
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WOW! This has been an amazing read. Thanks to everyone who posted up.
I think that MT has been added to the list - and staying in a different capacity is also looking more attractive.
Luckily, we will be able to follow the 'go when the weather is the worst' advice with a ski trip to CO this winter.
aloha...
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Don Paul
Social climber
Washington DC
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Aug 13, 2018 - 07:27am PT
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Fatdad I'm glad you were disturbed by the whiteness of Colorado. I just moved from there to DC and it's nice to be able to be friends with African Americans again. I would not want to be a black person in Colorado. Anyone unable to see this is the White Man whether they know it or not. But the mountains and variety of rock are hard to beat.
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johntp
Trad climber
Little Rock and Loving It
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Aug 13, 2018 - 07:49am PT
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They call that part of Utah, Dixie. Nawmean
Possibly the most conservative part of the state.
Yeah, get that. Being relatively apolitical that conservative aspect doesn't bother me. It is withing easy striking distance of a huge diversity of environments. Don't know about the schools, but would expect they are good.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Aug 13, 2018 - 08:23am PT
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Schools in Utah are generally abysmal. OK in the affluent SLC burbs.
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Gunkie
Trad climber
Valles Marineris
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Aug 13, 2018 - 09:04am PT
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WOW! This has been an amazing read. Thanks to everyone who posted up.
True. This topic touches everyone at some time. I am enjoying reading the responses.
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micronut
Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
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Aug 13, 2018 - 09:11am PT
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Fresno.
Great mountains nearby. Killer schools in Clovis. Cheap homes. Halfway between the monstrosities of LA and SFO, both of which are nice to visit but you couldn't pay me to live in. I can fish before work and ski half days before work in the winter. A lifetime of rock within 2 hrs in each direction. I grew up here and have always said I don't trust air I cant see or water I can't smell.
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Aug 13, 2018 - 10:17am PT
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Fatdad I'm glad you were disturbed by the whiteness of Colorado. I just moved from there to DC and it's nice to be able to be friends with African Americans again. I would not want to be a black person in Colorado. Anyone unable to see this is the White Man whether they know it or not. But the mountains and variety of rock are hard to beat. I'm not sure if disturbed is the right word. It's really hard to describe. I'm 1/4 white and 3/4ths Latino but pretty much pass as white. However, I get an uncomfortable feeling with environments that appear to be happily self selected. I live in LA and get the same vibe about the Southbay cities (Manhattan Beach, Hermosa Beach, etc.). Really heavily white, despite a LOT of surrounding diversity, and seemingly though perhaps not consciously happy with that set up. To me, I wonder why people who know that the world is a diverse place don't realize that where they live is not diverse and don't wonder why that it or, worse, are completely fine with that. I guess you could just eat the lotus and roll with it. Maybe the best way to describe it is that when I see diversity, I also have the belief that it's diverse because everyone is welcome. When I don't see that diversity, I wonder if the opposite is true.
I got to tell you though, I still ponder about just how much rock there is and how convenient. That part is a strong sell. Sorry for the thread drift Thomas.
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Happiegrrrl2
Trad climber
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Aug 13, 2018 - 11:48am PT
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What do people think about the Grand Junction, CO region? I've stopped in Grand Junction twice now, and spent a few days each time, and liked the town.
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Aug 13, 2018 - 12:17pm PT
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Criteria are:
-Great school system (2 kids 14/12)
-Good access to climbing, skiing, MTB, paragliding, kitesurfing, etc (don't need all of them but as close as possible)
-'reasonable' cost of living - need to be able to get a place for 400-500k (I understand that is not exactly reasonable)
-Dont want full suburbia but also not looking to start a farm
-Manageable traffic
Education, Quality of school Systems?
It was the 1st, modifying issue mentioned.
I have sat out the discussion, waiting to hear others views of the educational options.
given the lack of mention to that one issue I have to ask;
Where do you want your children to go to school?
This says some of what I'm aiming at Thank-you JBaker;
jbaker
Trad climber, Redwood City, CA, Aug 13, 2018 - 04:04pm PT
Given the kids' ages and the focus on good schools, you may also want to think about what Universities you'd want to have an in-state tuition option for in a few years.
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10b4me
Social climber
Lida Junction
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Aug 13, 2018 - 01:51pm PT
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What do people think about the Grand Junction, CO region? Have been there 3x,but the last time was seven years ago, so I don't know what change has occured. Other than Ouray, and Telluride, that part of Colorado doesn't attract me. I like the Durango area.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Aug 13, 2018 - 02:34pm PT
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Fruita, CO (near Grand Junction) has killer mountain biking and really soft rock climbing in CNM only 3 miles away.
Fort Collins is pretty nice when you don't smell Greeley.
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Nick Danger
Ice climber
Arvada, CO
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Aug 13, 2018 - 02:41pm PT
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Weighing in on Colorado options here. Colorado Springs is a lovely town with some wonderful people, but it most assuredly trends in the wack job direction of conservatism. Please note that I am not saying conservatism is wacky, but it does have its goofy extremes and some of them live in C. Springs. It has good schools, though, great rock climbing, but is a bit of a drive from the best Colorado has to offer for skiing, paddle sports, and alpinism. Denver is closer to many of these things but is just too big, has aweful traffic (Denver drivers are aggressively, dangerously rude). Grand Junction is a nice town, but in the recent past has had an economy a bit too cyclic because of an over dependence on extractive industries. It does get warm in the summer too. I think Montrose has a nicer climate and is closer to some truly outstanding geography for outdoor sports (all of them you listed). The southern San Luis Valley is a beautiful place close to climbing, skiing, mtn biking, and paddle sports. I don't really know that much about the school system, but there are some lovely little towns down there, and the Hispanic culture gives it a wonderful cultural flavor. Some of those southern counties, however, are among the poorest in the state, which negatively affects the school systems. There is a small college in Alamosa, but they have been suffering falling student registration for a number of years, which puts that school in potential trouble. One other thing, real estate all along the Front Range urban corridor is pretty outrageously priced, but maybe not by California standards.
I hope you find a plot of ground that really pleases you/
cheers
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hailman
Trad climber
Ventura, CA
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Aug 13, 2018 - 02:48pm PT
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These threads do end up being really fun to read for everyone!
I still stand by my Madison recommendation, especially for the good schools part. And (relative) affordability. You can get some real beauties in the $400k range -- a lot of the homes are a little older (built before assembly line housing in the 1950s) and have a lot of character.
I would be curious to know just how hooked you and/or the kids are on all the usual mountain activities you mentioned.
After rambling the High Sierra for a few years, I have a hard time imagining being back in the flat Midwest. Although might end up back there eventually to be closer to family.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Aug 13, 2018 - 02:52pm PT
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Somehow that wasn't how I imagined Hell would look.
At the least I expected more red paint.
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
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Aug 13, 2018 - 03:44pm PT
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Madison is a cool town. Beautiful area, lakes galore and Univ of Wisc to boot. I spent a lot of time there in the mid 60s when I was at Marquette. Oh and the drinking age back then was 18. Berkeley of the Midwest.
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
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Aug 13, 2018 - 03:46pm PT
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Hey Loyd Price- my brother lives in Roseburg, OR and I'm a bit jealous.
Beautiful wildflowers growing in his back yard, wild blackberries up the street, glorious Umpqua River so close by... my brother's family is not that outdoorsy and it's a bit like pulling teeth to get them to go on river adventures up there when I bring the inflatable kayaks. I'd be out there darn near every day in the summers if I lived there.
And whenever it gets too hot, it is certain to be cool (or not hotter than 70 deg F) one hour away at the coast. I haven't spend any winter time there, but I have been thinking that somewhere around there would be strategically good for being able to grow food and have water and a livable climate after the apocalypse.
BUT: Major downside- the place doesn't strike me as very supportive for ambitious college-bound kids. That's a place where going to college at all is considered ambitious. It's a decent candidate for post-kids living options, or a good place to raise a family if you can provide enough family vision and focus to supplement what the community/peer expectations are.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Aug 13, 2018 - 03:56pm PT
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I-b-gobee, was in Hell last month. We should all be so lucky to live there, although it is kinda
near Trondheim airport. Course it prolly only has 15 flights per day, if that.
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jbaker
Trad climber
Redwood City, CA
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Aug 13, 2018 - 04:04pm PT
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Given the kids' ages and the focus on good schools, you may also want to think about what Universities you'd want to have an in-state tuition option for in a few years.
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
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Aug 13, 2018 - 04:25pm PT
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^^^ +1 for excellent point re: in-state tuition.
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GuapoVino
climber
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Aug 13, 2018 - 05:00pm PT
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What do people think about the Grand Junction, CO region? I've stopped in Grand Junction twice now, and spent a few days each time, and liked the town.
I've spent a few days there and thought it was a cool place. Mountain biking areas, a little paddling, a big para community, skiing and mountains not too far away, Moab nearby. The down town area is nice, lots of shops, a few brew pubs.
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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Aug 13, 2018 - 05:20pm PT
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A friend of mine moved to Crested Butte, then later to Montrose. Not super close to Telluride but not bad.
Last summer I went to Silverton, CO. I'd really like to check out the skiing there. That's my type of place. Tons of snow. Steep terrain. Very few people.
I really appreciate the balance of where I live now in that I'm 5 minutes to a supermarket, 10 minutes to Target, etc. 30 minutes to a city, 35 minutes to international airport, but our property is rural and everything East of me is also rural. My folks have 100 acres in upstate NY and it's 25 minutes to a super market, 30 minutes to Target. Especially with kids you realize how inconvenient it is when you need something from the super market or you want to go to a restaurant and it takes an hour to get there and back.
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Lassitude 33
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Aug 13, 2018 - 05:28pm PT
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We visited Bozeman a couple years back and kinda liked it. Real estate is not super cheap, but then again, nowhere near So. Cal prices.
Looks like good schools, and being from a state like Montana will give your kids a much better chance at the currently very competitive College admission process, than if they are from Cal., Co or NY. Also, many schools are more willing to offer scholarships if you are from an under-represented state.
In state tuition is a big consideration, but if that were your main concern, just stay in California or move to NY or wherever, that have top flight and expensive schools. But, if you are unfortunate, like my wife and I, your child will only be interested in applying to private universities, and being "in-state" isn't really a factor.
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ydpl8s
Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
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Aug 13, 2018 - 06:06pm PT
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I was born in Madison, both sides of my family from there. Gotta be in the water in the summer, lots of skeeters near sundown. Pretty miserable in the winter but fall and spring are wonderful, as are the people year round. With both university and state capitol, it's the midwest version of Austin. (Devils lake will hone your technique on slippery quartzite)
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ms55401
Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
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Aug 13, 2018 - 06:27pm PT
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After Six hardmen routinely get spit off Devils Lake 5.8
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i-b-goB
Social climber
Nutty
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Aug 14, 2018 - 07:20am PT
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Location, location, Koi pond!
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Arch_Angel
Trad climber
Boulder, CO
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Aug 14, 2018 - 08:45am PT
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Consider Europe. Some countries offer generous college education benefits (free + stipend), health benefits, etc. And your kids will become become bilingual. And you'll get to sample some great culture and outdoor experiences.
If you have any tech skills, employment will be easy to find. English is the first language of businesses there.
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Cragar
climber
MSLA - MT
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Aug 14, 2018 - 09:10am PT
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Location, location...YES! IMHO, the kids education and life would come first and foremost, you can always move after they have moved on to college or other endeavors. Fortunately you can do that just about anywhere in the US, OK, I am stretching 'just about' but...
Why would folks live where you need escape? I know airports and busy places have 'stuff' but why do we need/want this stuff that we eventually want to escape from?
I moved to a place I love and has a lifetime of exploration w/in an 8hr(or less) driving radius. I still use the 3 hour rule for weekends, 5 hours for 3 dayers and any time above 5 hours needs to be 5 days or more. I kinda think we need to responsible RE: our fuels/resource consumption to keep us 'happy'. I know we are Americans and deserve to do ANYTHING we want but think about it....to me, one of the worst things us Americans do is travel, travel, and travel more just to be happy or to stroke the ego or whatever.
Good luck!!!
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ThomasKeefer
Trad climber
San Diego
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 6, 2018 - 02:57pm PT
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I just re-read all these posts and I think we are narrowed down to Bend and S. Burlington with a couple MT ideas thrown in but collectively a distant third.
Heading to Bend for a week in the mindset that maybe it could be home for a while - should be interesting.
If any other ideas come up... post them PLEASE!
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Sport climber
moving thru
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So no one has mentioned Gardnerville, NV. It's just over the CA border and at the foot of Tahoe. All the sports you want are within 30-60 minutes. My three grandkids have been in the school system for years and are doing well. The town is clean and the people super friendly. Speed limits enforced by sheriffs make the roads safe for kids to walk or ride bikes all over. Gasoline prices are low and I don't think they have a state tax.
Every summer Minden, just next door, hosts free concerts in the park. So awesome. You can actually hoist a beer as you sit and eat your dinner on lush grass and listen to live music which many (me) dance to. The young kids have tons of grass to play on. They also have family movies in another park in the summer evenings.
Fourth of July the young kiddos have a bring your bike and decorate it also in the Minden park. Bridgeport is about an hour away and they have Disneyland type fireworks display for free as well as a fun family day with live bands and climb the greased flag pole for the $100 bill at the top. You have the entire Sierra Nevada just south of you.
Where ever you choose, Blessings to you. Lynnie
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10b4me
Social climber
Lida Junction
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So no one has mentioned Gardnerville, NV.
That's a place I've wondered about.
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aspendougy
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Check out Seneca Rocks vicinity in West VIrgina
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dh
climber
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Corvallis, Oregon! Great university town. We love it here...
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Aeriq
Social climber
Location: It's a MisterE
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Speed limits enforced by sheriffs
You say that like it is a good thing?
JK/LOL - good to see you Lynnie!
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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If Minden's good enough for MooseDrool, well, there ya are.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Ouray county is the shizz. Lot’s of outdoorsy folks to play with and a lot of outdoors to play in and, after awhile, you can time the single traffic light so that it doesn’t slow you down too much.
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phylp
Trad climber
Upland, CA
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If you are taking a close look at Bend, you might want to take a look at Eugene on the same trip. It’s 2.5 hrs from Bend but the skiing is in between the two. It’s closer to the coast for your ocean sports.
The U of Oregon campus at Eugene might be the employment opportunity that you are looking for. But also at the community college/high school level, there’s much more opportunity there, because the population center is so much bigger.
I think Bend is a prettier atea and certainly the climbing is closer but Eugene/Springfield might be a better choice for the family overall.
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Brandon-
climber
The Granite State.
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VT has a new relocation program, they’ll pay you to move there. Just so you know.
Edit, not sure what to think about Donini using the word ‘shizz’. The entomology is based in Snoop Dogg.
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jogill
climber
Colorado
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Where would a weather forecaster move?
;>)
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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But, Jim, how do you ever manage to find a parking place downtown amongst all the MB Sprinters?
And, zBrown, did I bad mouth Bremerton? It just ain’t Oak Harbor or Port Townsend.
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Sport climber
moving thru
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Brandon, hilarious! I think it would be Ouray or Gardnerville. Think the latter would be better for kiddos. Also for teaching, I think that's what you were going to do, there is the U of R as well as several Jr. Colleges.
Donini, if the garagemahol ever has a vacancy give me a ring.
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Ken M
Mountain climber
Los Angeles, Ca
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INHO, the kids education comes first, as it will determine the rest of their lives.
Worth considering: Davis, Ca.
Outstanding schools, near to all sports. Great town, progressive thinking. All year weather.
Median house sales price : $562,100
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briham89
Big Wall climber
santa cruz, ca
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I just re-read all these posts and I think we are narrowed down to Bend...
You and half of California....including myself ;)
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ThomasKeefer
Trad climber
San Diego
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 7, 2018 - 06:32pm PT
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We will be among the hated, apparently.. 'equity refugees'
I am stoked!!
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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I think that the climbing at Smith Rocks is just average and it’s a long way to really good climbing.
Mine, however, might be a minority opinion.
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ionlyski
Trad climber
Polebridge, Montana
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I aint saying nuthing
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Bend is appealing to the beanie clad PNW rain refugees and anything looks good to
California Sybarites as long as it is semi-hip.
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i'm gumby dammit
Sport climber
da ow
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if it's about the kids, tahoe over gardnerville.
if it's about the beauty, tahoe over gardnerville.
if it's about the skiing, tahoe over gardnerville.
if it's about the biking, tahoe over gardnerville.
if it's about the climbing, tahoe over gardnerville.
if it's about the kite surfing, tahoe over gardnerville. paragliding is a wash, with an edge to gardnerville.
the schools are probably a wash (hard to compare because tahoe has several school districts one of which also includes gardnerville). the homes will be cheaper in gville, but 4-500k is doable in Tahoe. the summer is crazy hot in gardnerville, crazy beautiful in Tahoe. Traffic can be bad in both places, but I doubt approaches what bad is in monterey.
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